Sure do :) was many years ago now.

The same reason you delay your turn in a bus (2m) you do the same for a semitrailer. But the longer the truck the wider you have to turn to make sure your trailer stays on the road. Sometimes it’s way more than 2m.

G'day @PMobbs I've done about 400 K's on it now and smile everytime I'm on it. A couple of things though, the brakes fitted were not as advertised and were an inferior brand. The rear caliper needed some mods because the pad alignment was way off. I also added three really important upgrades and I highly suggest you do the same. Bigger screen, seat post suspension and throttle grip.... Unfortunately I have to sell mine as I am relocating overseas... As for riding it without assist...VERY HARD... I suppose physically you can but these bikes are way heavier than a normal bike and also with the fat tyres you have a lot of extra rolling resistance. Feel free to ask anything else and good luck.

@@Kinetic-Images-Australia cheers mate. With the assist on low does it rode close to a normal bike ? I love the cruisers, ride an Electra fat tire cruiser but thinking it might be time to upgrade to electric as the hills are getting tougher with my bodyboard and surf box on my bike. Loved your video, noticed you had on your truck. Was it easy enough to get on board ? Have you ever taken the front wheel off ? I might have to son can fit it in my van for adventures. Never ridden an e-bike before and finding it tough to find one near me for a test ride. Hope the guys get the brakes sorted out. If I order I will make sure to keep an eye out

Cooee again @PMobbs. Judging by your picture you have a few K's on the clock like me, I'll be 60 soon :) Mate go for it!!! Hills will no longer be an issue and I've ridden up a few big ones with no huffing and puffing at the top. As for riding like a normal bike you gotta understand that there are two fundamental types of electric bikes. The crank assist type and the hub motor type (as is with the Chubbie). The crank assist is what you'd expect as close to riding a "Normal" bike as you can get with electric assisting your input to the pedals etc etc etc. The hub assist is an electric motor that drives the wheel regardless of effort applied to the pedals. It takes a little bit to get used to especially when navigating around people on foot paths, gutters, obstacles etc. The different levels of "Assist" is purely speed limitation NOT power. The throttle grip allows you to apply a small amount of power or all if needed, so you can modulate the power input when things get tricky like people sharing the same path etc. However with the throttle grip you can ride all day without moving your feet at all if you wanted to. I think it is called Ghost riding :) Just a side note if you went with the throttle option, it is supposed to be (legally) for off road only. I always pedal anyway so the authorities have no idea if I'm using it or not. Side note 2 if you are cruising away happily with a little throttle applied and your pedalling as well, the electric motor is working (obviously) but you have to release the throttle AND stop pedalling if you want the motor to stop. Applying the brakes automatically disengages the motor no matter what you are doing. The front tire is as easy as any other bike to take off as it comes with the quick release front axle. Moving the bike onto the back of my ute with the ramp is easy as, no dramas at all. 38Kgs is the bikes weight and with the big wheels it is easy to load and unload. The brakes I had to sort out myself as they claimed bla bla bla and wouldn't replace to the brand I wanted and was advertised. As I mentioned in my video they come packed from china and I very much doubt they even open the boxes before shipping to final purchaser. After my initial complaint and requests to swap out the inferior brakes I noticed they changed their web page to accomodate the mistake they made in the specs. No biggie but was annoying because I chose this bike not only by looks but by the specs as well. Where are you from? Finally you'll love it.. As age comes knocking on your door anything to help is welcome in my book. I try and use it ALL the time even for small things like going to the local shops etc. There is a small adjustment period with hub motors and you will find you will grab the brakes in a hurry because your slowly moving the pedals when approaching a road crossing and wanting to stop, but because your still moving the pedals slowly the motor is still engaged. After a day I had slow navigation sussed :):)

@@Kinetic-Images-Australia thanks heaps for the info. I’m in Ocean Grove Vic and ride to beach every day. Getting harder pedalling up hill with my board and surf gear, so an e-bike is def on the cards. Just looking at the Murf bike as well. Looks similar and a tad lighter. Hope the o/s moves goes ok and thanks again for all the info

Thanks for your comment

Your spot on Connor3288.. I think all drivers should be aware of the mechanical implications of their actions no matter if it is their own truck or they are driving for an owner. The splitter in a lot of Gearbox’s actually run a synchro ring but the key factor in ANY gearbox is to remove the load from the engine to the box so a change can be made. Obviously the clutch is the main way to do it :) 👍 A single clutch press, not double, is all that is needed for split changes.

@@Kinetic-Images-Australia Been watching lots of videos lately trying to see how the range and splitter shifts/mechanisms work. There was a good Eaton one that showed how the range box is right behind the main gearbox, and how a shift ring with syncro engages or disengages high/low range. So the splitter works in the same manner, mechanically speaking? Also, having a sport atv and being a motorcyclist, I know what you mean about unloading the gears. Makes sense to clutch to ease the split, or move to neutral and back to gear should be even easier on the trans and less wear on throwout bearing. When engine braking in the truck and you want to downshift, do you clutch out of the gear or give a blip of "gas" to unload the gear? I know either will work, curious of your preference and why. I saw your Ducati video, that thing is a beast! Sounds amazing. Safe travels- Connor

@@connor3288 G'Day again Connor.. I'm relocating to Thailand next year and building a massive man cave, (will be making a video of the whole process) gonna miss my Duke as I cannot take it with me, so I will have to sell it soon..very sad 😥 I have however bought a Yamaha MT10 with a cross plane engine in Thailand and will be fanging that around for a while until I make a reverse trike out of it.😃 (another video of that too). Now onto your question. With engine braking (Jake brake etc switched on) both the clutch and Gas pedals have micro switches that will disengage the engine braking if you press either... BUT.... Using only the gas pedal could be a DISASTER.. REALLY BAD.... because if you get it wrong, the moment you raise your foot off the pedal the engine braking will turn back on... I only use engine braking when I'm loaded so the clutch is your best friend. Also remember that each truck is slightly different even between same models.. Older trucks, or what I mean is trucks with a few miles on them, tend to be more forgiving and there is a little "play" worn into the gearbox that helps gas pedal blipping:) One more thing to mention is cab over trucks have two push pull cables from the gear stick to the gearbox, not a direct gear stick into the top of the box.. any play in these cables have to be accounted for in the "FEEL" of the gear stick to make changes happen as you want them to. Hope all that makes sense mate and thanks again for watching my videos. Safe travels to you too mate :)

Gday Brendo…. Not sure which methods you’re referring to, but with or without clutch, rev matching is still required so the gears can mesh.. Also technically the splitter in a 18 Speed Road Ranger isn’t an overdrive as fitted to other gear boxes as the splitter can be applied to any or all the forward gears.

Your spot on Michael Re loaded and loosing road speed faster, however the revs drop the same no matter what (unless you have exhaust brakes enabled) the magic is knowing your particular trucks characteristics and yes, matching road speed and revs… an interesting thing I’ve noticed in all my years teaching is that people often try changing when turning at intersections etc when loaded and you loose road speed real quick when you factor in axle scrubbing whilst turning… Thanks for your comment Bloke :)

Good luck and also have fun reversing a truck and dog, with a turntable on the front of the dog you’ll have to steer opposite to a semi :)) But the boys can get those into some pretty tight spaces ….

@@Kinetic-Images-Australia with alot of practice i got on Farming Sim / Truck Simulator and alot of videos watched of guys reversing dogs on KZbin, I'm pretty confident that I can do it hahahaha. I've got advised about having the dog trailer tipped half way to see where the dolly is going when reversing back

@@whytelux1408 you’ll get it Bloke, before long it’ll be nothing but muscle memorie… goyougoodthing

@@Kinetic-Images-Australia ended up passing the test today mate 2nd go. The first test had me confused as I got accused of floating the gears hahaha. Had a lesson before this test to make sure I was doing it correctly and little to behold that I was doing it right the whole time, bloody examiners from TMR 🤦🏻‍♂️ . Start my new job next week

@@whytelux1408 good stuff mate!! Be safe!!!!

Totally agree David, in fact I sold my newer Ducati for my 998 purely because of the SOUND and feeling that the older one has.. Thanks for your comment 🙏

Sorry it made him sad but maybe sad in a good way remembering the good times. Cheers bro :)

Good luck… let us know how you went :)?

How did you go?

@@Kinetic-Images-Australia sorry for the delay in getting back to ya mate. But passed without any issues at all and even told to head back early cos of if how well I did. Now to just look into expanding my career and seeing what’s out there for new MC driver.

She's seen a few K's since then I guess...What state Rod? We assumed these were WA trailers initially with the axle spacing...certainly not legal under QLD regs now :)

Where are you from Harry?

Hey Joseph, thanks for your comment/question. Put simply the splitter is just another gear that can be used anytime or not at all. The splitter is a gear that is added to what ever position the gear stick is in, therefore it is added to what ever gear you are currently in and gives you just that little bit extra. That maybe still a bit confusing so imagine you are looking at a 5 speed bicycle and its gears. You'll have a sprocket on your pedals with a chain going back, and on the back wheel you will see 5 different sized sprockets (Gears) that you can change with a lever on the handlebars and you can go up and down these gears forever and as such this would be considered a 5 speed bike. Now a 10 speed bike is almost the same except where your pedals are there will be a larger sprocket and a slightly smaller one which you can also change with a different lever on the handlebars and this becomes a 10 speed bike because the two sprockets on the front multiplied by the 5 on the back makes 10 total. You still have the choice of never changing gears on the front two sprockets but maybe there will be a hill that you need just a little bit extra to help you get over it so you change to the smaller one without changing the rear ones. Conversely you're already using the smaller front sprocket and you want to go just a little bit faster so you change to the bigger one. In a way you could say the front is the splitter. Hope this makes sense:) This link is my second part to this video and I go into splitting in more detail. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aaTUZp1jfZZkmZI

Good luck and let us know how you went? Do you have any worries before your test?

Your welcome Roy, thanks for the thanks :) Have you watched part 2?

Thanks Bloke :)

Thank you too! Glad you like them, another one coming soon ish:)

Funny you should say that. I wish in hind sight I had spent more time elaborating about "feeling" the truck you drive or machine you operate as I really think that is what differentiates an ok operator from a good one... My next video with excavators I'll try and get that message across.. Cheers Paul :)

Thanks Paul.. I actually had to watch it again just now with Tie Your Mother Down in my head and your spot on, it does hey. I'm a big fan of Queen's music and can only dream that I could use their actual music in my videos :) I recon in hind sight that may be the reason why I chose it. Thanks again for your comment

Go you good thing :)))))

I’m on it lol. Hopefully after Christmas :)

Cheers Bush600R :)

G'day Graham, thanks for you comment and suggestion. How did you go with your licence? I'm currently working on the three phases of the clutch pedal movement and a brief over view of the air braking system. In this video @ 5:49 that wasn't what you were after? Just FYI though, I have mentioned a lot about the revs (RPM) and letting them fall when down shifting (about 400 RPM) and raising them (about 400 RPM) when up shifting. The clutch is used exactly the same for both, and the accelerator is either released for the downshift or a quick little stab to raise the RPM's for the up shift. I'll rarely downshift a half gear though in a real world application. No real need to and to best utilise effective engine braking the whole gear (regardless of the splitter position) is the only way to go. Often you will have to judge the amount of road speed your loosing (slowing down for an intersection, loosing speed because of an incline, turning a tight corner) and you'll need to skip a few gears because the road speed is dropping off too quickly. A half gear (splitter movement) wouldn't be effective and to be honest you would really have to be on your game in the above scenarios to make a nice shift..... and as soon as your have you'll need to change again.. Bugger that :)

@@Kinetic-Images-Australia Thanks for the quick reply. Yes I got my HR licence in May and I’m just about to start work as a backup driver for a timber and trade business in Albion Park Rail driving MR flatbeds with HIAB cranes. One of the four trucks has a 10 speed box, the other three are auto I believe. At least it’s a start! In your video, I saw some ½ gear up shifts where you just released the accelerator slightly to release strain on the drivetrain allowing the shift to take effect. My query was if you were to say go back ½ a gear in the first instance before going back full gears, do you effect the gear change just with moderating accelerator pedal (after selecting Low on the splitter) or do you need to move the stick to neutral and back into the same slot again (effectively, a double clutch downshift)? Keep up the great work. 👍

Well done re your licence... The short answer is yes , accelerator moderation should be all that is required. BUT. The correct way is a single clutch depression, raise the revs 200 RPM (because the whole gears need approx. 400 RPM ) having pre selected the splitter and it should be a nice and smooth downshift change. The gear stick into neutral and back again is an alternative and not really text book but this ensures there is no load on the drive train. Depressing the clutch has the same result. Try not to use the accelerator only method until your really comfortable with the truck because so many variables ( Payload, current RPM, current gear etc) can cause this change to go wrong and damage will result. Having seen a few gear boxes dismantled we noticed some unusual wear on some of the splitter gear sets, and other gears as well ,and concluded that the driver/s were not completely removing all drive line load (not using clutch or gear stick into neutral ) during a change and the gears only managed to partially mesh. After a few of these partial engagements the gears would wear into this position there after, if not breaking all together.

I like the video and instruction but unfortunately the AC/DC drowned out some of the instruction and being able to hear the revs with gear changes. Otherwise good. Ta

Cheers RWT thanks for your kind words and good luck with your class 5. When I get my act together there are another two videos coming 🚚

G'day Graham, great question :) There is no double clutching when splitting up or down. A singular small press on the clutch and rev matching is all that is required. The aim of the game with ALL gear changes is to ensure the load or pressure within the gearbox is released and that is achieved by pressing the clutch. Eaton Fuller recommend this as the only action to use. With splitting gear changes (up or down) there is a gear set at the back of the gearbox which is pneumatically actuated. Hence the air button on the gear stick. The range change, LOW and HI is similar. Because you pre select these buttons before doing anything else they are ready to go. You just need to release the load or pressure so the range change and or the splitter actuators can do their job. Double clutching is for all changes that require the gear stick to be actually moved into another position, for a whole gear. Yep, you need to rev match what gear it is your wanting next. Letting the revs drop naturally is what you do for upshifting (going faster) and giving the gas pedal a little blip and raising the revs is what you do for down shifting. As I mentioned it's about 200 RPM for split changes and 400 RPM for whole gears up or down. "Floating the gears" (not using the clutch) is a gamble we all play with the "Aim of the game" mentioned above, except we're hoping the release of accelerator pedal will be enough to release of pressure from within the gearbox. Get it wrong and damage will occur. I talk a little about this in my other video.... Learning the 18 Speed Road Ranger Basics... at about 9 minutes and 25 seconds into the video below. kzbin.info/www/bejne/bKrWk5KtYrKApLs I'm currently doing another video talking about the clutch and the video after that will be about brakes. Hope this helps, take care!

@@Kinetic-Images-Australia Thanks Jason, Such a speedy reply. I'm doing my HR crash-box licence training in two weeks time. (hoping for a career change from pilot to Truckie! (long story) So just to be sure, a ½ gear downshift without the gearstick movement (e.g., 6H to 6L) requires one clutch action with a approx 200rpm rev increase and a ½ gear shift with gearstick movement (e.g., 7L to 6H) requires a a single or double movement?

Yes on both occasions :) Double clutch because you're moving the stick. Just to clarify the double clutch is one clutch depression for moving into the neutral position and another clutch depression for moving the stick into a gear selection from the neutral position. However don't worry too much about the latter (7L to 6H). I can honestly say that if the scenario exists that required this change, IE your heavily loaded and going up a hill and loosing revs, I wouldn't worry about a half shift I'd wait just a smidge longer and go for a whole gear change with the splitter button untouched. Double clutch with 400 RPM blip on the pedal. (7L to 6L). Downshifting half gears can be quite tricky in any gear. You may have seen my channel banner is an instrument cluster of a turbine helicopter....... I'd give my left nut to do the reverse of what your doing :)

@@Kinetic-Images-Australia Thanks Jason, Yes I know what I'm doing is unconventional but a necessity really in my personal circumstance. Maybe if I got into helicopters years ago, things would be different. Some say if you can make a living from your passion, you'll never work a day in your life. Others say you'll just ruin your passion! It's just a shame that flying training is so dam expensive. I'll check out your other videos. Have a great weekend!

Sorry Max about the music. If you hung around for the whole video you would see the music doesn't impede any information.

Cheers Tobias good luck with your HR.

That was two jobs ago but I must say it was the easier of the two. Fuel delivery? Earthmoving machinery?

@@Kinetic-Images-Australia Oh wow, well I’m glad I found your channel albeit late, I have my HC but have had almost zero time in a road ranger since achieving it as most jobs I had since obtaining it had auto fleets. I drive for a diesel delivery service basically just a mobile petrol station. I love learning new aspects of transport and powder tankers is something I’ve never tried.

@@Kinetic-Images-Australia Hi mate, Hope all is well always re watch you videos to remind myself of the basics. Little update finally got a shot in the pneumatic tankers driving with Boral sadly not a road ranger complete auto fleet but still exciting to be back in the trailers and learning something new. All the best

@@ashdavy9828 Its a good job on the tankers. I miss it a bit as it's definitely not as hectic as my current job.... Just don't mix your powder with the wrong silo lol.

Thanks ESPSJ :) Every time I get a nice comment from people like you, makes me want to shoot more videos. I'm just polishing off another one (Hopefully by next weekend if my work isn't too busy) and the one after that will be with people EXACTLY LIKE YOU in mind and how to "Feel" your truck and adapt to it, to make smooth as butter changes all day long.

Glad you like them!

Your welcome @TheCaesar32 stay tuned I've got another one that will tie all three tutorials together. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aaTUZp1jfZZkmZI Take care mate!

Hey Jay, Close. I was a bit further south. I was out the back of Oxenford heading back to the Gold Coast highway and then North to Yatala etc.

Hey Steve, your upshifting so it's just a quick change. Remember you only depress the clutch pedal a short distance, not the whole way to the floor. I'm currently editing another and final video in this series called "The Basic Basics of the 18 speed" and I'll talk more about timing and the clutch. Hope this helps. Cheers

Gday R&B yes have been there a few times but about 1.5 years ago, I’m now in a completely different field of trucking. Big yellow one for Barnes Auto... Good chance I’ll be there again some random time lol

Thanks Steve, bit of a worry the gears getting stuck. Have you tried applying a little pressure to the stick before you release throttle?

@@Kinetic-Images-Australia yeah I do. Most of the time it works. I have found recently that it it changes much better at lower revs without the clutch. Unfortunately there isn’t a lot of training in this country on how to use a roadranger. We just get thrown in the truck, taught a few basics and then learn as we go. I find with all the Japanese trucks I’ve driven, they were more forgiving but this Argosy seems to be a lot more temperamental. My downshifting is fine but I still have a bit of trouble with my upshifting.

Thanks for your kind words Christos :))

Hey @christosMarkou you know there are two other videos as part of this tutorial and another I’m putting together now :)