@@PatrioticQuadriplegic no unfortunately it’s not possible to control DJI drones with anything but DJI remotes. They have the communication system locked down.

@@assistivetechstuff8955what about other drones that aren’t DJI? Will it work with a quad stick?

@ The ones that will work with this type of system are those that communicate on open protocols, like FlySky, FRSky, etc. This means looking at the FPV/racing/toy drone sector, rather than the commercial/photography/cinematography sector.

Looks like the LCD is now back in stock with a different link: www.adafruit.com/product/716. I've updated the description with the new link and also provided a link to the Arduino board

Eufy would have to use the same communication protocols as used in the RC world, but I would highly doubt they would. Companies like that tend to make their devices hard, rather than easy, to hack.

I'm not sure about Spektrum receivers as I haven't tried, sorry. The receiver I've recommended (FlySky GR3E) is known to work, so the easy path is just to switch out your receiver for that one, as the cost is pretty low. This is where you can find information on what other protocols are supported by the IRX4 multi-module: www.multi-module.org/using-the-module/protocol-details, but this doesn't specifically list which receivers use which protocol, only which protocols work. You have to look at each receiver and figure out if the protocol it uses is supported.

@@Glimpses_ the ‘side’ button (ie power button) is used instead of the home button on newer phones

The answer to this is technically yes but practically flying an FPV drone with input from only one joystick is very difficult.

Unfortunately I'm not in a position to assemble these for people, hence why I made a full instructional video so people would have what they need to DIY. Perhaps you could try a local maker group or high school/tertiary education facility to see if they'd be interested to take it on?

The one in this video is the positive version

Are you using an external transmitter module plugged into the module bay on the back of the remote? If not, it means you are using the internal transmitter of the FrSky Taranis to try to bind with a FlySky receiver. This is crossing transmission protocols - the transmitter and receiver are talking different languages. Both transmitter and receiver need to be on the same protocol to be able to bind with each other. From what I understand (not perfect knowledge) there are two ways to do this from where you currently are: - buy an external module that can go in module bay on the back of the transmitter that allows you to bind on the correct FlySky protocol for the GR3E receiver (the protocol is called FlySky AFHDS - be careful there are a few different ones) - this is what we did, and the module in the back of our transmitter is the iRX4 multi-module. - buy an FrSky receiver (hopefully around $30) that works natively with your transmitter on the FrSky protocol and is compatible with your car (mostly that it fits in the receiver bay and can still seal up from dirt and water). The latter of these two options will be the easiest. The very easiest option is to go to a hobby shop and say "please make this transmitter work with this car", most stores are staffed by enthusiasts and are pretty helpful

I cant play Roblox bc this TT

Try triple clicking your Home or Side button. If that doesn't work you need to quickly learn how to navigate (lol) using Switch Control to go to Settings > General > Accessibility > Switch Control and turn it off there.

I fixed mine by COMPLETELY powering off the device

It took me almost 18 minutes. I thought I broke my phone forever, but luckily I somehow got into gliding mode and learned how to use it. Then I went all the way to settings, down to accessibilities and turned off switch control.

Me to

You probably triple clicked your home or side button accidentally. Do the same to turn Switch Control off again. If that doesn't work you need to learn how to navigate (lol) using Switch Control into Settings > General > Accessibility > Switch Control and turn it off there.

Any RC car with a replaceable receiver will work. It won't work with cars that have the receiver soldered onto the board, it needs to be a standalone receiver that is connected to the car via a ribbon cable that can be unplugged. The soldered option is usually found on the cheap cars, so you usually need to spend a little more to get one with a replaceable receiver.

Hmm, yes looks like stock is an issue. Unfortunately this Arduino code has been specifically written to use the Adafruit LCD so dropping another screen on there would require modifications to the code, the 3D printed case, and the method of connecting the pin 3 wire.

This is an Ultrastik from Quadstick www.quadstick.com/shop/ultimarc-utrastik-360-enclosure

Yes, of course ... all code is modifiable and this has been made open source to allow you to do just that! :)

You have to open the "Scanner Menu" and choose "Item mode". If you want to change back to the "scanning blue lines" thing, go to the Scanner Menu and choose "Gliding Cursor". Your method of accessing the Scanner Menu is determined by the settings in Switch Control (General > Accessibility > Switch Control)

Hi. Sounds great. You can buy the Quadstick at www.quadstick.com

This looks awesome! I emailed you about asking if I could pay you to build one for me. I am a quadriplegic and this exactly what I've been looking for, one problem is I can't build it myself. I already use a quad stick regularly so that's easy! I might possibly be interested in buying a few of them to do some reach out work in our paralysis community. Great job! SFM "Simply fucking magic"

Hi there, send me a message at assistive tech stuff (all one word) at gmail

Yes there are several options, all shown in this video that you have just commented on. If you already have a Warfighter joystick, get an XAC and go with the XAC + Warfighter joystick option

I imagine it could be possible but would require a completely different configuration to the hardware (to accept input from the TRRS 3.5mm jack on the Warfighter) and a rewrite of the Arduino code. So just depends on your aptitude 🙂. Xbox Adaptive Controller is the easier option for sure.

@@assistivetechstuff8955 I am hoping to operate an RC car. I have enough arm strength to operate my wheelchair joystick. Is it possible to use ULTIMARC ULTRASTIK 360 to Arduino with XBOX Adaptive Controller rather than QUADSTIK FPS Controller, as I want to operate the RC car with my hand and not my mouth? I'm just getting into this and it means so much more than one could imagine! :) Thank you for your patience and help,

@@Menaceize you can use the Ultrastik as a peripheral through the Xbox Adaptive Controller (i.e. Ultrastik > XAC > Arduino), but the Arduino code as it stands does not provide for plugging the Ultrastik straight into the Arduino. It should be possible with a code rewrite but I remember trying to do this when I was working on this project but I hit some kind of obstacle and can't remember what it was.

@@Menaceize p.s. make sure you watch the other video that shows the method of using the XAC

@@assistivetechstuff8955 OK - this narrows down my options, as messing with the codes is a bit too much for me. I will look into the quadstick FPS Controller and somehow configure it in such a way that it is near where the wheelchair joystick is located on my wheelchair and I can use it via my hand, or when all else fails, use the quadstick FPS via mouth/sip-n-puff. Is the option to operate an RC car via wheelchair joystick available? And I thank you kindly for lending your support.

Remove what exactly? Switch Control?

@@assistivetechstuff8955 the switch control

@@assistivetechstuff8955 if I tap 3 times on the home button it happens again

@@Deathreturneralbion you can't remove Switch Control completely as it is a built in iOS feature, it would be like saying how do I remove the camera app, you can't. You can stop the behaviour of the triple click home button enabling Switch Control by going to Settings > Accessibility > Accessibility Shortcut (near the bottom) and untickint everything, especially Switch Control.

ok

Yep, full analog acceleration and steering based on proportional operation of the joystick

i need this where can i buy one pre-made please

Thanks poo baa, certainly a great solution if you operate a standard radio transmitter joystick

Hi, happy to help, but I'm having a bit of trouble following. When you say both the example sketch and my sketch work, is this with the LCD stacked directly on the Arduino? And when they don't work is this when stacked on top of the USB Host Shield? It is worth understanding that, if you don't power cycle it, the LCD shield will continue to display information on it even if you change the underlying sketch, making it look like it is not behaving correctly even though it may be, and vice versa. So to get true troubleshooting information you should power cycle (unplug and replug) the Arduino/LCD stack every time you change the sketch so that it boots afresh.

@@assistivetechstuff8955 Thanks for your prompt reply i managed to get it working again. It was all working perfectly last night and then all of a sudden it just stopped displaying so in order to rule out something dodgy in the code or hardware related faults i found a example sketch that basically just displays "Hello world" with different colors etc which worked so ruled out my dodgy soldering / adafruit build i then noticed it also stopped detecting the Xbox control so that pointed me to potentially a faulty usb host shield? ended up going for an hour drive to pickup another usb host shield replaced it and it all worked again! Cant wait for the reciever to turn up next week so i can see this thing in action - thank you so much for your informative video its going to put some smiles on peoples faces when they can do something they thought the couldnt anymore!

@@assflexfpv6185 Ah great to hear. Another confirmation that your setup so far is working is if you press the D-Pad on the XBox controller and get Speed and Steering Trim changes on the LCD. Would love to see a video of your setup in action once you get it all working.

you have to edit some of the sketch did you do that ?

@@assistivetechstuff8955 hey mate im trying to use the RT button with a logitech variable trigger control as throttle im running at a wall here :( have you got experience in this?

Hi, and apologies for the delay in my reply. I'm trying to avoid building these for people because I'm not in a position to take on that role, and it feels a bit fraught to start exchanging money for a service, particularly internationally (I'm in Australia). That said if you genuinely have no alternative I can look at it, because I don't want to leave you hanging. At a ballpark its about USD$200 for all the parts, and then combined with the assembly and programming time and international shipping I'm guessing it would be around USD$400. You'd still have to do some steps at your end, namely configure the Quadstick and install the 3rd party receiver into the car. Plugging the Quadstick in directly is half-built as a proof of concept - it works fine, but I personally have no need for this configuration so haven't followed it through to properly refine it. This might be the reason to finish it off, however.

@@assistivetechstuff8955 Hello! Thank you for the reply. I spoke with my brother and told him everything about the device and he said he can do everything I need done on it. So I don't need you to build me one. Also, I really can't afford the $400. LOL! But, if I want the box that you talk about in the video, I will still need to get that. But, we can talk about that later. Thanks again and I'm sure I will be in touch. Have a great weekend!

@@quadracing4788 ah great to hear. The good thing is that having someone local build it for you gives an avenue for making your own adjustments to the setup and the code to get it just right for you, and gives you the opportunity to watch over his shoulder throughout, because the building bit helps you understand. Is he good with Arduino coding? Also I’ve done some more work on the direct Quadstick control method (ie no XAC) and have it pretty refined now. So I’ll have that ready soon and will update the video description and pin a comment. For what it’s worth I’ve gone with a PS3 based control system as this seems the least finicky

@@assistivetechstuff8955 No, he doesn't know anything about coding, but he does know about doing the physical stuff like soldiering and everything like that. But, I'm sure I figure out the coding. Hopefully. 0K, I'll look into doing the PS3 based controls with the Quadstick. I'll keep an eye for the video description. I'm probably going to start ordering the pieces I need. Thanks for your help!

@@quadracing4788 things like this are the perfect opportunity to learn something new! 🙂

Hi there. Sorry, no this is a DIY project. There's a full video showing all the steps to building the system, the link can be found in the video description.

@@assistivetechstuff8955 disabled people can't do any diy, if there was someone selling complete ready to go systems that our caregivers can plug in and position it, that person selling would make a lot of $. i've seen so many things that would drastically improve my life but I couldn't get because I can't build anything.

No sorry it's DIY only

@@assistivetechstuff8955 It's a pity. Unfortunately, I don't know anyone who would be able to make such a device :(

@@rafalokap There might be a maker group nearby to you? Or you could maybe approach a local college or high school to see if some students could take it on, it's a good student project.

@@assistivetechstuff8955 Thank you. And can it be done without the Microsoft Xbox Adaptive Controller?

@@rafalokap yes if you're only using the QuadStick there is a specific way to do it without the Xbox Adaptive Controller, which involves using the QuadStick in a particular PS4 mode and modifying the Arduino code to make it PS4 based rather than Xbox based

Yes since posting this video I have had a successful proof of concept of that setup. The Quadstick is capable of directly mimicking a genuine PS3, PS4 or Xbox360 controller, but not Xbox One, so there seems to be no way to make the Quadstick and the Xbox Adaptive Controller interchangeable, unfortunately. To do what you want means making the system based on one of the other gaming systems, and I think PS4 would be the way to go. (EDIT: I now think PS3 is the way to go) For my purposes I need the system to be very versatile and allow a range of input devices, hence why I have designed our system around using the XAC as a hub (almost like a USB hub) and hence why I will be keeping this setup and at least for now not planning to spend time properly rewriting the code for direct Quadstick input. But for a sole Quadstick user that doesn't need this kind of interchangeability, it does make sense for the Quadstick to plug directly into the USB Host Shield (one less thing to buy and fit on your lap), and I have proved to myself that this works with a rough rewrite of the code (proof of concept). To do this properly requires rewriting the code to be PS4-based rather than Xbox One-based, having some particular settings enabled and a particular profile set up on the Quadstick, and then tweaking the whole thing to get the most optimal config. Have a read through the comments with Emigdio on this video for some more info as we discuss it a bit there

I have tested and have it working with a Compact Joystick and a Mini Joy joystick. Any Speciality Controls joystick should work, the important thing is that it is connected through a FreedomWing

Just noticed that joystick is geared towards people that use their chin, and I need a controller that I can use with my hand.

@@Quadcam yeah typically this won't work with a hand-based wheelchair joystick, unless you're using a specialty controls joystick in your hand. Your best bet is to use a hand based gaming joystick (E.g. from Warfighter Engaged) plugged into the Xbox adaptive controller. This is good for you, as it is a much more straightforward route than building your own FreedomWing anyway.

@@assistivetechstuff8955 I found one on their website that would be perfect but they are located in Australia, and I am in Canada. Would you happen to know of a hand based gaming joystick that is available in Canada or the U.S.? Sorry for the questions. I really appreciate the help.

I need something with the hand based design of the UltraStik, or the Warfighter Engaged FPS joystick.

According to this: www.multi-module.org/using-the-module/ppm-mode it could be any of positions 2 through 7. Or according to this: www.multi-module.org/using-the-module/protocol-details/flysky-afhds2a and this: www.multi-module.org/using-the-module/protocol-details/flysky-afhds-2a-rx there's some chance it's either position 28 or position 56. You'll need to use this guide to change protocol banks, so that you can access positions 28 and 56 given that there are only 14 positions available in each bank: www.multi-module.org/using-the-module/ppm-mode#protocol-bank-selection Without having tried that one for myself I can't be sure, so you'll just need to use trial and error. The worst case scenario is that you can't get it to bind, in which case I'd recommend buying the FlySky GR3E receiver (about $15) - I couldn't get my stock Traxxas receiver to bind to anything, and so this is the one I used and it binds with no fuss. P.s. it is strange that the stock Redcat receiver has the product code R-3E, as this is very similar to GR3E. This may be coincidence or it may be an indicator that Redcat is using a FlySky receiver, which would be good news for you.

@@assistivetechstuff8955 Ok , i'll be receiving everything soon, Idk if my dad can do it. Do you do it? I just need someone to assemble the arduino uno, host shield, and adafruit led screen. Do you assemble that for people or no?

@@emigdioobesovaldez7426 I don't sorry, not least because I'm in Australia. The good news is that the only thing that *requires* assembly by soldering is the LCD shield and you can do without this initially.

@@assistivetechstuff8955 ohh no problem, i have one more question, would we be able to make a custom profile to map the buttons wherever we want?? Because next year i want to buy a huge expensive rc vehicle with sound and lights. I want to map the buttons just as i do for a ps4 game.

@@emigdioobesovaldez7426 yes this is definitely feasible. The best way to do this would be in the Arduino code which is why I felt compelled to go into so much detail explaining the code so that people understand the foundations on which they can make their own customisations. Happy to guide you through this process once the time comes.

I tried to dig around to see if I could find info on the transmission protocol used by the stock Redcat receiver (part number R-3E according to this manual: dealer.redcatracing.com/manuals/BLACKOUTSCPROMANUAL.pdf ) but I couldn't find anything definitive. So once the multi module is flashed to the latest firmware (as per my video) your friend has two options : 1. use the binding process described on this page (www.multi-module.org/using-the-module/ppm-mode ) combined with the information on the protocol table on this page (www.multi-module.org/using-the-module/protocol-details ) make an attempt with fingers crossed at getting the multi-module to bind in PPM mode with the stock Redcat receiver. If you can't find any more information about the particular protocol used by the stock Redcat R-3E receiver then this will be a trial and error process through the 70 protocol options available. For what it's worth I tried this method to get the multi-module to bind with the stock Traxxas receiver and failed. 2. buy a new receiver that you know will work, and install this into the car and bind it with the multi-module. This is what I did using the FlySky GR3E receiver, and was able to bind this receiver very easily. For about $15 this might minimise the heartache, but there's no harm in trying step 1 before resorting to this step 2.

Yes, the 4th pin from the end, which is called pin 3. This is because the count starts at 0, rather than 1. If you look on your Arduino, pin 3 is the 4th one from the end, and the pins on the LCD shield (which is what you're soldering onto) line up directly with these. As an aside, if you had soldered the wrong pin, you could simply adjust the Ardunio sketch to use the pin that you (accidentally) soldered onto.

@@assistivetechstuff8955 Haha thanks for the reply, literally 5mins after i left this message i found the schematics and realised it was 00,01,02,03. Thanks so much

was fun teaching my carer how to solder though haha

No problem. Hope they've got steady hands! :)

@@assistivetechstuff8955 i bought 3 kits so if is stuffs up she can just get some more practice haha, only issue im having is that the Arduino isn't lining up with the printed posts, it's very close though

That's awesome! I hope the info in the How-To video can help make that happen for your bro. Very happy to help, but I'd rather have the discussion on KZbin so that others can benefit too. Hit me up in the comments of the How-To video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/qIrbqHyopqpqp5o