As always gents excellent content. This is so well done I wish the KZbin algorithm would send this higher for folks to have this knowledge.

Shows just how much potential there is in that Mopar small block!!! Love it!!

So much for engine balance!!

I've got to weld on a new tailpiece onto my 72 Demon. I bought the Demon new. Just surprised how it rusted around the taillights. The rest of the car has been great all these years. Got the tail and waiting for warmer weather. Good info Thx. !!

Sorry, guys. I couldn't make it through your video. The loud, blaring music was too much for me.

Shops should always patch and DIY can plug.

You dont put any silicone under the gasket ? I see some do around the bolt holes

Did you lose some compression when you used the J heads on a 318 or did you use higher top pistions to compensate since the combustion chamber is bigger on 340/360 heads ?

dont forget to drill the other 4 holes on the oil filiter plat for improved flow

This is perfect I have an 86’ Chevy blazer and I’m gonna use this video to help clean out my fuel tank

I've never had a problem with a plug in 50 years of using them. Seems to me if the tire needs to be removed from the rim and patched from the inside, it's going to be cost prohibitive.

There is nothing more permanent than temporary.

I don’t know if you’ll see this but , I have a question. I have a 1984 Cadillac fleetwood brougham D’Elegance the last time it was running (2011) it would start just fine but once it got to operating temp (not overheating) it would shut off and it wouldn’t start until it was cool. What do you think could be the problem?

Sounds good

I’ve plugged tires since 1973 never had a problem they lasted longer than the tire

I will always have a patch put over the hole on the inside of the tire . Never would have a " plug " put into the hole on the ouside of the tire .

Could you show the door skin from the outside? I was wondering what kind of finish this tool is delivered. Thanks

My 67 chevelle is having problems. It runs good then starts to run like crap and try to stall, then runs good again and eventually won't idle and dies. It's all over the place at idle. It's got a 325hp 396 with a 4175 Holley and it's pissing me off.

I have been plugging tyres since the tube went out of fashion. There are three requirements. 1. The hole is round and less than 6mm diameter. 2. The hole is on the tread contact area. 3. The tyre is in good overall condition. I have NEVER had a plug come out or leak. ALL my plugs have lasted as long as the tyre. The "danger" of a permanent plug repair is BS. Promoted by those selling tyres. The plug is as "dangerous" as the original puncture event. If it comes out you will lose air at the same rate. The plug does introduce a point of "weakness" in the tyre structure - that is already 3x stronger than it needs to be 🙂. If you are using the tyre on your racing motorcycle or you routinely travel at 160 kph plus then you may want to buy a new tyre, but at reasonable speeds and load your plugged tyre will be fine. I challenge anyone to come up with a verifiable case where a properly plugged tyre has caused a problem 🙂

Ive had nails,screw,staples right on the corner were it curves and i take it to a discount tire and they tell me i need a new tire! Hahaha i take it to a mexican family own tire shop and $15 dollars later its fixed without having any issues until i need new tires...

I'm just an old shade tree mechanic, that still has a lot more to learn than I have learned (or remember). 🤷🏻‍♂️ But, did y'all check those valve springs? For whatever reason (hell if i know why) I kept thinking that you had one or two weak springs on that right side 😵‍💫 or a bad valve/valve seat matting 🤔 (didn't like the sparks/flames on that side) Maybe it's just an old problem rearing it's ugly head from my past I just know (especially these days), you never know the quality of what you're buying regardless of the name on the package🫣 Dad always said "don't buy machined parts or vehicles made on a Monday, Friday, or a holiday" 😉 But all of that aside, 👍 AWESOME build (and great video) 💪🏆😎

Just had a rock through a 9ply BFG KO2 tire, took it to a tire shop, they told me the hole was too big( less then half an inch wide) in the middle( not the sidewall) the guy said that his plug /patch is too narrow to plug it up.. i tild him it the whole will be smaller once the rock is out.. but he said by law he is not allowed to fix it, that it would bungle up fromnthe outside etc etc.. so i had to buy 2 new tires.. and used the good old tire as a spare..did i get ripped off? I spent 1000$ instead of 50$ plug/patch. I was gonna plug it myself at hole but couldnt pull the rock out as it was crumbling/crashing up?

You've inspired me to do the same with my 340 block. Any recommendations on what lifters to get?

Thanks for the video. If I’ve got 2 small nails like 1-2” apart, inline with each other right down the center recessed groove (not tread), can one patch just overlap another patch? Tires are 2 years old and I’d rather not buy all new tires. No Highway driving with the vehicle. I know it’s not ideal but would that be better than just plugging both?

Im trying to buy a 5.3 or a 6.0l for boost up to 800 hp. One of the blocks im looking at has a worn lifter bore. Should i just look for soemthi g better?

I've been driving for 2+ decades and experienced around a dozen tire punctures on various cars and minivans. The funny thing is that professional tire patches failed quickly at least twice after the repairs, but DIY plugs never failed to solve the problem and they lasted until the end of those tires' lives. That's why I'm a believer in those DIY tire plugs.

GOOD WORK... Can i ask you where you bought the Big Step Reamer from, and the final size reamer ???.... I want to do a block as well... My thoughts were to set block up on the ground, lifter bores vertical.. so the weight of the reamers are not at a 45 degree angle.. they go straight down.. finish with a hone adjustable hone as well...

I'm looking at replacing my stock intake with the Performer RPM. I believe I have a vacuum leak likely coming from one of the cork end seals. When I hook up a vacuum gauge to tune the carburetor it's reading 0 at idle but jumps up when I rev the engine. It's not an issue with port vs manifold vacuum either because I've tried every vacuum port available and it does the same thing. It's the stock intake that's never been taken off so I'm hoping this will fix all the issues I'm having. This video is very helpful, thank you.

Neat process! Why not just sleeve the one bore that was a problem? Just curious.

The over the counter plugs tend never to really leak air by themselves when applied correctly but the National Tire Manufacturers don't recommend them because they can in rare cases allow humidity and moisture to enter the tire and rust the steel belt from the inside and eventually in theory could lead to a tread separation, a blow out. There have been a few of these that have severely injured or killed drivers after a tire repair with just a plug some months after the plug has been put in place so it is never recommended. The plug and patch shown here prevents the moisture from ever being able to enter the tire and eliminates the small chance your tire could be damaged internally. The reality is like many things in life the odds are likely still in your favor with just a plug, but how much is your life really worth when a reputable tire store like this offers low cost or sometimes even free plug AND patch fixes? I'm stuck with one vehicle that doesn't have a spare and so I carry a fix a flat can and air compressor PLUS I do carry a plug kit, but really when I get a roadside flat my plan is always to hopefully be able to use fix a flat and the air compressor to seal the tire long enough to get me off the roadside and to a tire repair the next day or at most two and the plug is there in the event the fix a flat doesn't work and I can't afford to wait for towing etc. but now have the knowledge that some tire stores will no longer repair the tire since I applied an "improper repair" (the string plug) so I'll have to be getting a new tire in the next month or so to avoid the risk of a long term failure due the moisture issue I mentioned. Again all of this is "low risk" but in life a few hundred here and there when my family rides in the car with me? Cheap.

So, if you are curious, Nick’s Garage on KZbin built a 318 stroked to 390. Don’t know where he got the parts but he said it’s a 4.000” stroke. Based on your bore number that’s 0.030 over with a 4” stroke. Put pretty much stock but he upped the compression to 10.5:1, ported iron heads (he gave the serial number) with 2.02” intake valves. Stock rockers & push rods with a comp cams flat tappet cam. He said he had 120 pounds of spring. Aluminum intake, double pumper carb and cast iron exhaust manifolds. He was able to get 15” of vacuum at idle for power brakes. On the dyno he was impressed with the results. 405 HP at 5400 & 445 foot pounds of torque at around 3800 on 94 octane pump gas. I’m not really a MOPAR guy, but I was pretty impressed for what is really just a daily driver. It would really be nice in an older pickup.

Amsoil number one oil for destruction of mopar engines .

How long can you drive for after getting your tire plugged? Is there a speed I shouldn’t go over?

Its only a 002 to 003 thou press i think the 🔨 worked great if people only knew how many times the mechanic or machinist used a random tool or cut off for a hammer its not a ball peen hammer you need its a bushing forced in a light press fit bore in a mopar block

What does that tell you when no one would mess with it.. I belive in the reamer if you make a centering rest or study to guide on same Plane so I'm scepticalbut would love to hear how it worked out for you

I would want all Grove bearings for good oiling

I drive 80k to 110k miles a year for years. All I can say from patching tires is some patches last the length of the life of the tire. Some make it less then 3000-5000 before then the next oil change. On average plugs tend to fail quicker then patch but if you have some on the road that make direct contact with the patch it might also make the patch pop. Even something that isn't sharp but just slightly touching the patch. I do drive+12 hours a day when at work. That might be a factor. At times, at or near the weight limit the car has, sometimes over. I've driven millions of miles, never have i had catastrophic failure when one kicked the can ever even when or the weight limit of the car at 70-75 mph on the highway. I don't go any faster then that. Best thing you can do is just have the tools to fix it and also have a spare tire, air pump, a car jack and all other tools to fix a tire and in 10-20 minutes you will be back up and running if you are prepared.

From your own description it sounds like the plug can be used in a wider band of the tire since it doesn’t rely on the flatness of the inner surface for sealing.

How did this build end up? The reason I ask is, it sure looks like there's a lot of drag in that assembly. It looked like he had a pretty long lever arm on that crank bolt, and he was exerting a lot of (uneven)effort on rotating that crank.

Great numbers for a 318 based LA with your “ steel” heads. MOPAR2YA buddy!

ok but you have to dismantle the tire from the rim 🤣🤣🤣

Hi mic! Question, I am about to plug a geolander on my Subaru. I use the vehicle for overlanding and light offroad. I do air down and up for trails. Will I be ok to continue to use this tire for those trips or is that asking for a bad day out on the trails? Tires still have a lot of tread and the plug location is in the thickest location in the middle of the tread. It is not in a water outlet, it is on the road contact part of a tread knob. Thanks anyone who can give me any advice here.

Tony D’Angelo hasn’t complained about your use of his Fast Fish cuda name?

U can fill the float bowls through the vent tubes then just use the accelerator pump

95 % of the plug will work for ever . If you are going to use an internal patch , you still have to use a rope first to seal the hole so water does not corrode the steel belt , then you do the internal patch .

If you’re going to post a video about patching a tire. Then show it being correctly. Buff area on tire, wipe with patch cleaning solvent, apply tire patch glue and allow to dry properly. Do not touch with bare hands after the glue dries. Like you man did. Then apply patch and use a stippling roller to remove the air pockets in the repair area. Plug are a perfectly acceptable repair. I was in the industry for 12 years 1980’s and 1990’s. Hundreds of plugs personally no issues.

I’ve been using plugs for several years by doing it myself, and I’ve never had any leaks from it. So far, one of them made it easily up to about 30,000 miles ( Maybe more…), and, a coincidence happened to have another nail’s puncture in the same tire. I’ve add another plug myself, once again. The tire is still doing great.

Cause an oil leak in a tyre, well that says it all, there is no need to say any more

When the patch, the water still can go in from the outside. It will damage layers between tires. The plud one sealed both sides.

I have repaired brand-new tyres with the temporary plug rope style kit and it has lasted the life of the tire and not lost any air over the three or four years more than the other ones did…… I’ve never had an issue with the rope style repair even when the puncture is on the shoulder…….. All the best from Melbourne, Australia