Thank you. I'll steer clear of the billets

These vehicles were engineered as Sport Utility Vehicles. They were not intended for the same type of stuff Jeeps are Engineered for. Look at the base, or beginning of them. CRV=Sport Utility. Jeep=Military Scout/Recon Vehicle (also troop transport) However, they are still sport Utility Vehicles. All vehicles are for those who build or customize, "platforms". If one chooses, one can take a vehicle that was engineered as a "Sport Utility", and increase its capability. So, I think what people have been doing lately is still vehicle enthusiasm, there is still a level of support for the vehicles our Allies make. If I were to build a CRV with the intention of using it as an Adventure Vehicle. I would not go further than a 2 inch lift. They are capable in a stock configuration, but the stock type tires are very lacking. The first and main thing to do is choose an appropriate tire. When stretching capability, or using the vehicle off road, and further than typical sport Utility type of terrain, you need articulation. The Honda CRV, does have good approach, departure, and even with fairly low ground clearance, good cresting angles because its short wheel base. Its old, so it does not have the same type of sophisticated traction control as a newer awd vehicle. Luckily, they do come with limited slips in some models, there is a stock type of upgrade, and the screw type diff unit might even be a locker, so that's even better. I would look for a limited slip from a civic or accord to use in the front if a rear doesn't work. You would not have to engage or disengage. It would provide drive to the front without negatively affecting the handling. The steering off road would still be fine. I would look for long travel shocks or struts. I would keep the stock tire size, maybe plus 1, which is about half an inch lift. Same ride or close to stock ride height once you air down. With the long travel shocks or struts, and this is a little trickier, find longer and softer springs. Considering its softer, it takes more compression to get the same spring weight. So you can retain a stock ride height. But you get more articulation because the struts are long travel. So the compressed length must be the same as the stock unit, you will lose up travel is the length is not correct, so what's the point otherwise? These upgrades and mods for the CRV are still cool and useful for those that have those vehicles. Those last three paragraphs are just the way I would do it.

Hello, "Joel Guerra" I was analyzing your channel and saw that in your channel have some problem, That's why your channel is not much growing and not getting much engagement, If you can solve these problems, Your channel will grow like a storm. If you tell I can tell these problems. Where can I tell? Here or email?

Would that system meet the requirements for SCCA? I read you need to have a metal box around the fuel cell and a bulkhead between the cell and the driver.. I think those two things are the same?

Go blazers! 👍

❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤❤

you installed the new part the wrong way, You had to turn it the other way

I have a pair of Auxito H8 in my fog lights giving out yellow light, they are much brighter than the 35watt halogens fitted previously and they have been there for about a year and no problems.

I’m just here to say I enjoyed every one of those 60 frames (shoutout for waiting months to post this)

You should do a video for that switch panel

4:10 did you ever fix the abs light?

Thanks man!

what intercooler is that one thanks

Go dawgs

I wanna do this to my ef. But debating on maybe if i cut the rear and push it up and leave front.

Mantap Gen 1

Hahaha some funny commentary, thanks for the vid!

I just went through this with my '99 Integra and I agree, for a daily driver, I would only use the OEM style rubber on the front mounts. Initially, I had replaced my original worn out front mounts with new Megan Racing "Hardened Rubber" mounts because I thought: "I have to replace them, so I might as well upgrade," BUT they ended up introducing so much vibration and harshness into the cabin that rattled my entire dash and I could even feel the vibration coming through the seats, making the car less enjoyable overall and in general making daily driving seem more like "a chore." After replacing the mounts a 2nd time, this time with new aftermarket OEM style mounts ($40/each @ O'Reilly), the car idles, runs, and drives SO SMOOTH, the vibrations and harshness are gone. Like you said, I think it just comes down to application: how do you use the car? what are you trying to accomplish? there's always a give and a take

What turbo manifold are you using?

Sweet

🔥

Link???

8:03 bro your crank pulleys wobbling pretty bad!!

Thank you

Awesome video

I appreciate you bro! just the video i needed!

what is that intake heat shield? and also it wont fit in the hatch, its crx specific. i had to cut part of my hood fo0r the cap to fit

Dude where can I get the R2 D2 horn thing?!

Thanks for the detailed install. Super helpful.

fuego

LFG

Smooth tunes with a smooth assembly. Nicely done!

Dude knows his stuff

This dude looks like he knows what’s up

Doooope

Do you have to do anything to the ecu

Very helpful Thank you for sharing

Don’t most four cycle engines have the exhaust stroke 180° from top center but the piston is still at the top? That is without being able to tell which valve open last.

Dope

Good Luck finding those lines on a used engine!

Wtf why is your video so bright? Its 1am, i dont really feel inclined to get blinded 😂

The only 2 methods I would use

Wow. The most accurate way

you earned a like on this video just for that Honda first aid kit part number lol

I love my KRX.

nice

❤

What kind of speedometer is that

Ia that an adapter to go where the oil can is?

Thanks for the video I came because I'm in the same boat 😂