Great fix. Another tip for Xbox One S and X consoles with no display - always start with in this order. Test HDD with Crystal Disk Info if its bad then move onto HDMI port inspection then Retimer / Redriver and then onto Booster IC. Those are common no video issues

Nice easy fix!

Great video! some sections were a little bit too quite for my liking and I started to wonder if my headset died on me 😅. Other than that, good work and really cool seeing the psp come to life. The PSP reminds me of the day me and my wife met for the first time so that console has a special place in my heart. Looking forward to what you come up with next :)

Subbed. I myself am a total noob at fixing electronics. Ive actually broken more than ive fixed 😆 😂

For the shiny plastics get yourself some Polywatch polishing compound. It it used primarily to clean plastic watch lenses but works on most plastic surfaces.

get needle point probes mate

Great result in the end. Just a couple of tips for the switch removal. Low melt solder is ideal to use in that type of situation. As for refitting the switch, clean off all the pads, then add solder to just one of them. Mount the switch to the tinned pad and fine tune its position until happy with it, then solder up the other three pins. That way it ensures that it is mounted flush to the board. More tips to follow, Karl.

Well done on getting it back up and running. The two diodes in the backlight circuit are always out of alignment, but they are always connected. If you are seriously interested in more repairs like this i would suggest investing in some needle probes for your meter. You can pick up some cheap add ons that connect to your original probe tips. I would also look at using diode mode when probing the components as it can give you much more info about what you are measuring. Plenty of info on-line. Keep on learning, Karl

The port needs to be seated flat or you will not have connection to the pads underneath. I would also redo the pads you have also worked on. M92 does need its caps in place. When removing or refitting charge ports use a larger nozzle or no nozzle at all. Use 450 degrees and 50% flow. Better to heat the area quickly and get the job done before the heat spreads around the board. Karl

A few observations for you. I would try to never apply force to a component or bend a component attached to a PCB. You will rip the back off the PCB when the PCB is weak or you are working on less modern PCBs. Luckily modern PCBs are very forgiving. Older PCBs can delaminate/bubble with too much heat, traces tend to break off easy, etc. When using wick if you use a shorter piece or a thinner wick and it will soak up less heat from the soldering iron. Also when going to remove the wick keep applying the iron heat that way it won't get stuck. You want to avoid moving the wick without the iron on it as it can solidify and rip things off. When wicking up solder I watch the solder being pulled into the wick to gauge if I have either saturated that portion of the wick or if it's finished wicking all the solder.

Good on you for making and sharing these videos. It's easy to start feeling defeated and incompetent, trying to figure this stuff out when the vast majority of content is made by professionals who make it all look effortless and fast. Watching someone else stumble their way through the process while staying motivated to learn and get better is a nice comfort. A solid reminder that it takes time and patience to get this stuff down.

Good job

When adjusting those diodes wait for the solder to change phase visually and don't take away the hot air when manipulating with the tweezers. Add more flux if yours has blown away. For diodes you want diode mode on your meter. In that situation if you can't quite see the traces to figure out where the resistors and diodes connect. Try putting some IPA onto the board. It will create a lens and make things clearer. Obviously zoom in further if you can, clean the board, etc. Can use the same trick to read what's written on hard to read ICs. I can't quite tell but the probes might have been too big. Probes could be smaller and sharper. Especially larger round ones can get flux caked up on them. Use IPA to clean. Looks like you are just barely getting in there onto the pads with these small components. Probemaster are very nice but you can get cheap good silicone test leads with sharper smaller tips. Congrats on the fix!

good stuff. keep it up.

Good Job! 🎮📺

Awesome dude well done. So pleased you we're able to fix it. Watching other peoples videos make it look so easy doesn't it?

well done on the fix mate .. to make things easier if you knock off a component replace the solder to leaded it will flow into place quicker . i fix them myself and know how hard it is , keep up the good work

Port should be more flush to the board even with that jumper wire. Before trying to install m92 add solder to the pads on the ic aswell

Well done Dwayne,and well done for sticking with it. Lets hope its the first of many succesfull repairs.

Congrats on the repair. Glad you got it going again. I remember fixing my first switch and seeing the charging symbol I literally jumped for joy. One thing - It looked like the charger was a bit tough to put into the port? Could be flux? Maybe clean it out or could be burnt plastic in the port when reflowing. Other than, well done!

Well done on getting it going 😀👍

Another great video Dwayne. Keep learning,i'm learning along with you and finding the same frustations when trying to solder.

M92 needs the cap. With the switch lite. You only really need to get the one row soldered on the USB c port. With the normal switches both rows are needed as it’s needed for docking. Since you still got no power both ways. I would say fix the cap first then move onto the port. Use a bigger nozzle and I prefer flux with port removal and attachment

Man, I remember some years ago when i bought my first ds, I was so happy but unfortunately a guy stole it gfrom me :(

Great video!

It could have also been a bad hard drive

Great video,and well done with your repair. I'm just learning like you. subscribed.

Nice video, just upgraded from the one S to the Series X becuse of the retimer problem😂

Great fix! I've got a couple of xbox one x 'so to fix with a similar fault. I think it's the retimer chip too. I've been worried I'd mess it up and have put it off. You have given me confidence to try it. Thanks.

Flux is you're friend and the board needs to be warm or you could end up with weak soldered joints

Ur soldering didnt flow inside because u were just heating the legs on the potentiometer. U need to heat the contact on the board too so solder bonds to it. It all worked out tho, enjoy ur wins an before u know it this will all be easy. Just practice, same as everything.

U need flux for braid to absorb solder too. It wont do it without

You may as well have gone to hall effect ones while u were doing it. No more stick drift. Oh my mistake on this to was not cleaning flux. It rusts the potentiometers if u dont. Get solder sucker end flat so it seals a bit

I tried to do this. I didnt have a hot air station tho. Pretty simple job if u got the tools tho