coin capsules are great, but depends more on the game and type of token. Bullet for example, the coin capsules are a must if not planing in buy the premium tokens.

I've been wondering what's the best way to convert my OG 7 wonders into the newer version. I own most of the expansions and the new edition really fixes many of the issues of the older one. Printing the newer cards sounds easy enough, but what about the wonder boards?

Wow love this video and the ideas! You went really all-in with the shower scene 🤣🤣🤣 I already color some of my token edge with a mix of sharpie and acrylic paint (with a brush). I never hear of those paint marker before. Thanks for this tips. I appreciate all the love and work (lots of work) in this video.

Lots of laughter 😂 kudos

Lots of laughter 😂 kudos

I have a huge tip for those interested in speading up this project. I clip and edge lots of my tokens. I generally stick to simple black. I use dry erase markers. The results are fantastic. The best part about it, as appose to permanent markers is that the pigment adheres to the unsealed edges, while easily wipes off the sealed surface of the token. Just be careful with cheeper tokens or light colored tokens as some tokens can bleed under the light colored tokens and show. I’ll have to give your recommended markers a try as you claim they have a similar wiping off effect. Furthermore, you have a larger pallet of colors. Although it’s hard to compete with the safety and speed of dry erase markers on tokens or tiles that are in the black range-you can get extra sloppy and still wipe off the excess super fast with a simple dry paper towel. I have yet to do the varnish/resin option, as I’ve generally been satisfied with my results, but I will absolutely try your method on some games. I live that you remind people to test the colors on the punchboards first. I always do this to test how well the dry erase markers adhere to surfaces I don’t want the color. Another extremely fast hack is to use nail clippers. I’ll eventually make my own video, but I find nail clippers + the occasional knife to be faster than the knife alone. But seriously, great job. It really makes a huge difference without needing to invest in coin capsules-once you see your token side by side, you’ll get addicted to doing it to all your favorite games. Thanks for the video-you beat me to the punch, pun intended, but I wholeheartedly support your approach. Subscribe! Oh, and lastly, sometimes punching a token tears off a bit of the face or obverse side of the token-this doesn’t matter as much if you’re using your method as you are matching colors, but if you stick to classic black like me, it’s a decent investment getting a fine-liner sharpe kit or using your acrylic paint to gently ‘dot’ the torn part. I’ll be buying the markers you recommend as it seems to have a pretty wide selection-and you’re totally right that it doesn’t need to be an exact match in order to touch up a torn bit. I look forward to more of your videos-and I hope you drop by my upcoming channel about quick ways to upgrade your game’s tokens, DIY inserts, and making your own token upgrades (or buying them). Keep up the superb work. You can find me on BGG @ Maurice_Oksman . And please, feel free to correct me on anything I mentioned. It seems we both have a passion for beautifying our beloved games without breaking your wallet. You’re awesome! Cheers!

I occasionally upgrade games with coin capsules. Beware though that some coin capsules stay closed better than others. For those cheaper coin capsules I find a dot or two of super glue seals the capsules together, solving the issue.

Wonderful videos. I've used coin holders for Runebound 3rd edition. Why? Because I missed the *klackity-klak!* of dice in that game! Wonderful upgrade to satisfaction!💯 I've also experimented by using coin holders as bases for miniatures, with and without artwork inserted. The effect is pretty good and leaves options for see-through base or original artwork.😎

Dude you guys are great! I can't imagine the amount of effort you put into these videos, but the quality really comes through!! Please don't ever compromise on it and you will reach the level of SU&SD one day!

Please make how to get cards back to straight ( after bending). Or how to fix wrapped board.

You guys crack me up 😂 I love how you present all the different methods and the pros and cons. I’m a crafty person and I love the look and feel of resin for some things, but the coin capsules are so quick and easy. I can see myself using both! Glad the KZbin algorithm sent me your vids.

Good video but even i would love to do this i think its more expensive and more diffucult i preffer the coin capsule.

2:48😂😂😂😂😂

For large cardboard pieces, I sanded, painted and sealed the edges with mod podge and then gave the pieces a few coats of spray varnish. Oh and any game with expansions? Bye-bye inserts. I'd rather have one box full of game than three boxes full of air.

I thought you were going to talk about GeekUp Bits! What about scratches on capsules? It feels like something that can also degrade over time

if i only do part 1, will that be good enough for long term token life (if we play once a month) ? thank you.

After more experimenting I settled on a solution that works for me. I had two goals in mind, protect the edges and do that in such a way as to create a nice-looking finish (possibly without taking forever to do so). So I was not necessarily interested in protecting the face of the tiles. However, in your video, you certainly show that even with resin you can achieve a thin finish that might protect the faces and still fit in the box. I will definitely be considering it. So in the end I used Vallejo gloss acrylic varnish although the process is multistep in the final result I think it's worth it for me. 1. I applied the varnish first on the bare cardboard along the edge. The varnish penetrates the cardboard and fills the minute holes and imperfections. 2. When the varnish is completely dry, I sanded the edges with high-grit sandpaper, 1500 grit to smooth the edges and prepare them for painting. 3. I then either directly applied a black Posca pen or did a hand of primer and then colored with Vallejo hobby paint, depending on the color I wanted to paint the edges. 4. When the paint was completely dry I applied several hands of Vallejo Gloss varnish to finish it off. From my experimentation and online research the varnish is much tougher than Mod Podge, water-resistant and in general designed to better withstand wear and tear. The reason I did several coats of varnish was that you can really build it up on the edge which allows to achieve a raised effect l like with resin and also to further mask or completely eliminate surface imperfections. Finally, I created a simple mini foam applicator instead of using a brush to speed the process of applying all these paints and that really helped make the whole process much quicker than it might seem from reading all these steps. Thank you again for your video which was absolutely helpful in particular the experiment you ran to see if the finishes would get sticky if left in contact in a hot environment. (That part almost gave me a heart attack! seeing the pieces sticking like that haha. Have a great holiday!!

For X-wing on the dials i took some transparent packing tape and then cutted the edges with exacto knife / scalpell. This do not add so much thickness. Maybe not the best good looking solution but prevents damage after using.

The first thing I do in cases like this is to try some card sleeves and see if there's a particular size that fits, even though I need to do some adjustments later. Then, if it doesn't work, I try varnishing the tiles.

I recommend card sleeves

Inserts? What inserts? Goodbye inserts.

I throw inserts out all the time.

A simple sleeve do the job

I wonder if some clear PVC shrink tubing would be an option

i was wrong about the geekup bits being in the box but not too far off. if you want to make a part 4 you can look into 3D printed token holders, there are some interesting looking ones out there.

There's only 1 autofail out of 14+ tokens in that evil bag. Thus, the probability of getting the autofail is 100%. Also, I can't go back to playing without coin capsules in Arkham Horror anymore. Great video, btw.

A part 3, on a Friday? HAPPY DAYS!

I already use and like coin capsules, but definitely came to your channel because of the upgraded resin method you previously covered.

Love coin capsules for any game where you're pulling tokens from a bag. I also really like them on games where lots of tokens are played on a board and you have to interact with the tokens often. The capsule makes the tokens easier to see and pickup. I have my copy of Vagrantsong fully capped - it's both a bag builder AND there are lots of tokens that go out on the board. It's a joy to play.

I'm not personally a fan of the look of coin capsules, though I do understand their appeal. I did make an attempt to get some for Quacks, but not living in the USA or the EU means that the costs for them were quite high compared to what I see people posting online.. Canada might as well be in the Galapagos as far as item availability without silly import fees and shipping go haha.

People unsubscribe because they don't know what they're doing! Thank you for this video, I discovered the channel recently and I'm loving it, a lot of humor and content mixed together.

Coin capsules for my Runebound "pogs" have been gold ✨️ for years.

In addition to sticking your tokens in coin capsules, you can stick your cards into cassette tape cases and player boards in tupperware or pyrex containers! Board gaming has never been so easy or cheap!

Hi, and thanks for this truly great video! It made me want to go through my whole collection of games and deluxify them all! I wanted to ask for some quick advice, given the experience you've certainly accrued on the subject. I want to seal the sides and potentially the top of some game components from a game called Res Arcana. These components are large, thick cardboard cards. I don't think resin on the top would work for me, as I'm sure I wouldn't be able to restack the components in the box afterward. Can you suggest a treatment to make them more durable since they are handled a lot during play? Thanks!

Awesome video!!! Looking forward to the next ones...

Your videos are great!!!! You have a new subscriber and I can’t wait to watch more videos

nice project guys. Respect for the amount of editing and preparation for the video

You two are so funny! Love your how to videos and your humor!

Really amazing video. The humor is spot on and the video is also intersting and informative. The quality is also great. Certainly one of my all time favorite videos. I hope you'll continue taking that route. Can't wait for your next videos 😊

finally!!! PART 2

Hey mate! Any ideas for tile upgrades? Brilliant work, btw!

I was longingly waiting for your second part. You did an amazing job with this video. Great humor and advices. I totally love your content. Please go on, even if it is time consuming to do the research and all the work you put in with preparation, cutting etc. . It's totally worth it. Wish you both all the best and hope your channel will grow to the appropriate size you deserve. 👌🏻

Very informative video! It is fun that it was suggested to me by youtube algorithms. I am happy that my post on BGG regarding tokens deluxifying inspired such creative people to make an educational video content. I see here a lot of improvements in techniques and in tooling and more researching than I did for the original post. Guess making and editing this video took even more time that the tokens deluxifying process itself ) Can't wait to see the part 3.

I recently used template maker with my cricut for deck boxes and it an awesome website, one thing would like to mentiom is that you can export the template in a bunch of different file types

I have use UV resin in my tokens, they have the plus of better control over the process and can obtain very flat tokens and tiles for my games with bags like Obssession, Castles of Burgundy, Calico, Cascadia… If you want an advice I recommend to 1st make the border of the token (not the lateral), give it a 5-9 seconds of exposure to UV and then fill the interior of the token with your desired quantity of resin, all to avoid the dome effect result of the surface tension of the resin if you put too much or good coverage if you use less and want a thinner coat. Your 2nd method will work better with UV resin, just have to rotate the token while it’s been exposed to the UV light.

Such a great video, nice mix of humor and info! Can't help but think the Quacks GeekUp Bits are in the box. 😂

I haven't used any resin yet myself, but i believe that resin will yellow over time. But you can counter it by saying a tiny amount of blue dye. Although, the yellowing might not be very noticeable on the tokens, sauce from the white ones

have a look for diy liquid glass, I've seen videos of making it with acetone and Styrofoam and on tokens it looks/sounds amazing.

Woooooaaahhh, what a great second part!!! Love the humor and the advices. You both did a really good work on this video ^^