Hi, the allen key method is very helpful. The question I have, is why is it important for the central pulley to be lined up with the marker and notch IF you have marked the belts, crank pulleys and case to line up, and counted the teeth, so long as the central pulley, hasnt moved from the starting position, when you start the job? If the pulleys remain in place from the starting position and you slip the old belts on and new on (having counted the teeth), should that do it, once tensioned correctly? About to do this job myself and getting a little concerned i'll get it wrong and blow the engine. I have it all apart ready, well, at least with the covers and exhaust off, full access and ready to go, withnew belts in post. So im already invested in doing this myself...

Exactly what I was looking for, thank you so much!

Here's how the clips work for the door panels if they are giving you trouble - kzbin.info/www/bejne/jaqxommPbsadrtU

Well done sir

unplugging the cord is the hardest part this dumbass mf jus made a jump cut

bro skipped over the most important part

I just installed 6.5 inch Rockford Fosgate coaxial speakers on my ’14 Audi Q5 using your technique. It worked flawlessly! Just had to make some minor modifications. I used thin plywood, approx. 4mm thick. The outer dimensions were spot on, but I increased the inner dimensions by .5 inch to accommodate my speakers. Instead of using epoxy to attach the ring, I screwed it in with small, narrow screws in case I wanted to change speakers later on. This way, I can just unscrew it. Other modifications - I affixed thin weather stripping (foam) on the speaker housing where it screws into the door panel to prevent vibrations. Also used wire connectors for ease of removal in the event I want to replace. Already replaced the front tweeters with Memphis Audio 2.75-inch tweeters with bass blockers. Will replace the front center channel with 3-inch Dayton audio and the rear door speakers with Rockford Fosgate in the next few weeks. Thank you very much for sharing this video!! Deserves 1,000 👍 Take care.

Hey Thomas - Thank you for sharing and providing the adapter ring measurements! I will try this on my '14 Audi Q5 which has the same speaker set-up. I don't have a 3d printer so will use a cardboard template first then use that to cut out a thin piece of wood. Did you also replace the rear passenger door speakers? If so, did you have to to the same process?

gorgeous dog you have. And it always help to have a helping paw or two. :)

Just did my S2R800 with your help. It had 4300 miles and 18 years old belts.Thanks!

Thanks for that, Since Iceland has no Ducati dealer and I dont trust anyone to do it correctly I must do it myself, nice to have a refrance guide

Thanks for the tutorial. Was able to do both sides on mine since I couldn't find the same Philips bulb and I bought Sylvania.

I’m sorry, but I have to interject. I have a 2015 B8.5 S4. I saw this video in my search for the best way to change my own bulb. Once Thomas got to the part where one can turn the bulb 1/4 turn counterclockwise and remove the bulb, I asked myself, “Why should I remove the entire light housing? I went to Auto Zone, bought a D3S bulb, went out to the parking lot, opened up my hood, removed the rubber cover, reached in and took out the bad bulb, unhooked it from the plug, took the new bulb out of the box (it was an Osram), plugged it back into the plug wire, and stuck it back in the housing, turning 1/4 turn clockwise and locking it in. The whole procedure (including buying the bulb) took 5 minutes. Do not take the car apart to take out the housing. And definitely do not give the stealer/dealer any money to change that bulb.

worst idea. the "plate" you created is way to thin. thicker is way better. next issue, you could have also made a brand new mounting bracket with a 3D printer. its actually best to create a solid single form. this also doesn't look good with all the glue your adding. try checking out CAF or five star car stereo youtube videos for professional guides. for others, don't do this. waste of time and effort.

Hello, have a good day. I need to ask a question regarding the change of the speakers of a 2009 audi a5. The problem is that when the speakers (4) and the tweeters (4) were changed, the sound stopped being heard. I don't know what to do. Can you give me any idea what happened?

Always wear gloves for HID bulbs. Always

What was the mounting depth of the OEM's? Buying some aftermarket adapters and will be using 8" woofers instead of 6.5".

OL on the display means OpenLoop, which means there is no conductivity. It says OL before you measure anything as the air between the 2 probes is an insulator. That means there is resistance when you measure, and a lot of it. You said there isn't resistance, which is wrong. You should indeed get a measurement. If the speaker is shorted the number would be very low and if there is a broken wire etc, then the reading would be very high, or OL

Exhaust pipe removal from the horizontal cylinder is a must on the 696 to get straight into the vertical belt tightener allen bolt. They strip quite easily at an angle if the pipe is left on and they're $10 each plus the wait of shipping from Italy . Ask me how I know.

Nice work man! Going to try and do it myself. Can you give me de measurements of that disc plate you printed? So I can get 4 printed. Thanks 😁

Thanks for sharing this. It was a helpful video! I've got a M1200S and I'm guessing the process should be similar.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/bqvRg3dtnd95b5Y Here’s a video of mine with the updated stuff

Damn bro that’s not a 2021 model. You have the older brakes. Old suspension. Old seat. Old graphics. I don’t know why they are shipping them like this and saying 2021 model. To bad. I just got mine and I got the new stuff except the kke suspension. I got Jewed on that

Thanks

The Tesla Ranger that comes to your location does this with only one floor jack under the rear area. The vehicle is stiff enough to raise the front so you can get that front wheel out. Pretty cool.

Can you just change the bulb itself ?

My 2014 S4 had a plastic retaining clip at the base of the bulb. You twist this clip counter clockwise to release the bulb instead of twisting on the bulb itself. I would not have had to remove the assembly had I known so hopefully this helps somebody else.

Hi Thom, your S4 is still healthy and in good hands :) Just stumbled upon this video in my feed and thought that the background and the car looked familiar lol. Hope you are doing well!

Mine has like a gate thingy on it

Thanks for the tutorial, have to fix mine this weekend and this helped a lot!

You can change the bulb on the driver's side of 2013 S4 without removing any screws. You have to reach down behind the light fixture and snake your hand into the fixture. You have to be very, very careful not to break the bulb and it takes a little dexterity. I removed the old bulb and then reinserted it as a "dry run." Once I was comfortable with that, I was able to GENTLY insert the new bulb. Of course you risk breaking the new bulb which is fragile. Anyways it worked out for me but I emphasize practicing with the old bulb several times.

Great video. Going to start doing my own rotations. Just curious was that first jack just a 1 1/2 ton jack? Could I get away with 2 of those? Thx

Where did you get the recommended mileage change at 6250 miles? The Model 3 manual says 10,000 to 12,000 miles and it does not show a picture of cross rotation? Updated: the 10,000 to 12,000 miles that I’ve quoted is from the owners manual. I did see where you got the 6250 miles and that is from the TM3 Safety Manual. Weird that they have a disconnect. But I’m still questioning your cross rotation. I didn’t see that noted in either manual. And to add that your included diagram in the video shows something different than what you did, right rear to left rear?

I'd be carefull using too much torque on the drill. If you watch when you use the torque wrench it seems to click right away. This happens when over tightened. You want the torque wrench to move the nut a bit before clicking. It might be hard to tell from video but just a heads up. Thanks for posting!

Would you switch the tires the same way for a dual motor Model 3?

Dang dude i got my bulb for 160 😭

Great tip about the 3D Printed jack pads. Thanks! If interested, here is a link for a Tesla wall mount charger: www.thingiverse.com/thing:3719017

What do you do so set pressures monitors on the new location?

Thanks for the video!

Thanks for the video. Not sure how you can do it on a model 3 with jack stands since there is only one location for each tire to lift the car. Seems like your 2 floor lift method is the only way to rotate the tires.

That was helpful, thanks. I was able to find this bulb at fcpeuro.com for $60 (no affiliation). Beat the $400 dealer price!

Thanks alot for the vid. Just had to install new HID's on my b8 s4. fucking 8k look beautiful. def helped out when i was out in 20 degree weather. should check out my channel i post new vids weekly on my b8 s4. just posted a stage 1 tune! great stuff, thanks again!

Does the cam also capture sound?

did the whole process but did not show the camera icon after inserting the flash drive, do you know why this is happening?

hey man is your Audi the version with curve lights?

Great Help ! Thank you !

You saved me a lot of money the dealer wanted to charge me $450 claiming they had to do a full system review.

Thanks for your help

Thanks dude

Many thanks for all these details and step by step instructions. I have featured your video in the Tesla Dashcam Facebook group to help the community. :) facebook.com/groups/243018023060721/