You mean the lock itself? Where are you located? Easy to get in Germany / Europe. Besides that you might check out the reddit lock basar for itnernational requests

@@MrBlackMagic yea I'm usa , is there a reseller online ?

@@TheLockWhisperer Hmm i dont know to be honest. In any case it will be much cheaper to find someone near by you who is willing to trade or sell his lock. Go to reddit, search the "lockpicking" section and in this community and the relating discord is a "lock bazar" where everyone offers fancy locks. I am sure you will find the best option there

Grüße zurück

Me neither. The basic mechanism may be a good idea, but the execution of this build is very faulty.

I have no clue. Maybe due to the building or machining process. A big design flaw in any case

They do. The notch is getting more noticable as more as you use it for the exploit also some cover plates may hide it better. check out other Kwikset Smartkey videos abou this topic. I am by far not the first one using them.

very welcome

Exactly. Should also work with thinner or slightly thicker gauges too

@MrBlackMagic I was surprised the Gen 3 was rather high on the LPU ranking system. I understand it's unpickable without the sidebar bypass. I hear the gen 1 and 2 are pickable but much harder to pick without doing the sidebar bypass. I was thinking of using a modified Bobby pin, seems it would be much easier for edc carry.

@@johnkeo358 Could be working with bobby pins but they are a bit stiff while getting them into the tiny area where the exploit works. Let me know once you tried it, curios to know if this could do the trick too

Thank you for watching!

Thank you sir

This could work

Levers may need several pushes to be set. Sometimes they will make a sound sometimes not. Try different tensioning power to make it easier for you to differ between the actal binding lever and others. You should always make the jiggle test after you think something is set but be aware of oversetting! Just a gentle jiggle, if its a tiny bit springy its fine

@@MrBlackMagic And what difference do you feel between a lever that its binding to be placed and a lever in a false gate? Do you both feel completely rigid? Thanks again

A correctly set lever will feel nearly floating a tiny bit springy. A false gate lever has a sharper feedback, might not jiggle smooth or does feel completely free floating. Its difficult to explain so i recommend to map your key bitting so you know at least one correct position and can compare the feeling to other levers. but this fichet is extra tricky as the feedback seems to differ over the picking process. Harder tension to find the binding lever and a lot of jiggling helped me for my first open. After you set a lever doublecheck every other right away as they like to move sometimes just enough to get it out of true gate! Even touching a not binding not set lever after setting an other helped to make an other lever binding. Very difficult lock indeed

@@MrBlackMagic okey thanks a lot friend!

very welcome! happy picking!

Normaly the lock Design and the tolerances won't make it happen that the two sides isolate completely. So you have to go back and forth in any case normaly. On some Locks more than on others. If they would isolate completely it would be way easier to pick

Haha thanks man ❤️

I am not enterly sure if there are more tiny difference in 3ks and 4ks. Maybe the different pins wont relock as easy. I assume the reason for this in the pin/slider design but as i never had a 4ks in my hands i can not fully answer your question

That a good question. I have never selected manually the subtitel settings. I will take a look

Maybe its possible to differ them based on the keyway but i am not entirely sure

@@MrBlackMagic that's what I'm trying to figure out. I know theres different ways to bypass or pick the different gens. My issue is identifying the gens

@@eccentric_by_default489 As you can also decode some KwikSet Gens just based on the keyway view i would highly recommend to use an endoscope camera to search for unique features

Could you go more into detail? i am not sure if i understand what you are trying to say

Very welcome!

There are also pure mechanical versions available. Often used for the inside door lock

Thank you

Thank you! If I got your question right one of the most difficult locks so far was the fichet 484.

Very welcome!

Now having luck with the core in a vice with 2 shims: first 0.010", then 0.012"; insert the first shim (with a slight tip curve to get started) just under pins 1-3. The curved tip makes the shim exit upward after the 3rd pin. Then insert the 2nd shim without any curve on the tip on top of the first shim past pin #3, through the visible space to pin #4. This puts downward pressure on the first shim and prevents it from popping up. Finally push shim #1 all the way under shim #2. Set the wafers as I go. I tried milling one shim to 0.02" but couldn't get it to work. Next I'll try the core in the housing inserting the shims side by side and angling them together?

Correction: I CAN get 3 shims between the core and housing: 0.01, 0.01 and 0.013". For my new lock, any 2 shims won't allow pin 5 to set. It takes all 3 shims to put enough pressure on the side bar to set pin 5. Perhaps different shims will be necessary for different gen 3 locks?

That sounds awesome! Many thanks for that offer. Go ahead! I am still working on the last steps before publishing the code (github repo) and full video (good examples, images, descriptions etc.). I don't know if you would like to wait for this to finish so you have better footage for what you want to feature and that the people can directly reproduce it (prepared also offline examples and demos in my program to play with). Let me me know what you think

@@MrBlackMagic Sure. Kindly let us know when you are done.

@@ToPProjectsCompilation perfect. How can I reach out to you?

As for all assa side pins I recommend a special tool like a modified half diamond or similar. Use the jiggle test over and over even if you think the elements are set. Light tension or even float picking are important

@@MrBlackMagic thank you - i'm starting to get it and am amazed at how light the tension is. i'm finding that i can more or less set the top pins, then the side pins - then have to touch the top pins again and go back and forth like this for incremental adjustments - Your pick here is wizardly - thank you so much for the time

It is very interesting and especially for learning more complex locks and mechanisms essential. It is a generic USB endoscope camera with a short focal length. Nothing too special

@@MrBlackMagic fantastic - thank you

@@MrBlackMagic ah! what is the focal length? i've just tried one only to find it is four inches - amazon doesn't seem to list the focal lengths ... thank you - and just watching your Robur pick. cool!

@@itsallinhow i bought mine on ebay. you have to search until you find an offer with the focal length mentioned . otherwise as you noticed, they might sell you not useable stuff.

@@MrBlackMagic thanks for the advice!

Still preparing and cleaning the code. In the full video I will publish all code I have as github repository

It's a generic USB endoscope camera with a short focal length and build in dimmable led lights.

really not more than the hardware costs (and hours of writing the software). you dont even need the raspberry and display as you can run the code on your normal computer/laptop. You really just need the therm sensor which in this cases costed ~250 Euro. But there are cheaper and other sensors available and depending on the resulution you aim at those can be used as well.

thanks man :)

I get the best readings with the current prototype in a 10-15cm distance. With a lens and/or higher sensor resolution you could increase this distance as wanted

Thanks :)

All locks can be picked. This is not a bad lock as well as other aspects like pull resistance matters. But there are more pick resistant locks out there

@@MrBlackMagic I see. Do you think burglars would avoid using forced entry methods to break into an apartment just because an apartment is located in a multi-story residential building where there are neighbors' apartments next to the apartment? Do you think burglars would rather use silent methods such as lock picking or bumping while trying to break into an apartment that's in a multi-story building in order to prevent creating noise and alerting neighbors, or that's not really the case? I am living on the top floor of a 3 story building, so I'm wondering 1: Would a burglar avoid making a forced entry into my apartment that is located in a multi-story residential building out of fear of alerting neighbors, and if that really the case, would I then only need to invest in a good cylinder, but not in a good solid door since nobody is gonna try to break the door (make the forced entry)? I'm wondering if I should invest in a good cylinder or in a good solid door too. What's your opinion?

@@johnsmall3105 I assume that burglars would prefer the quick&dirty solution. Fast and easy. Picking locks especially high security needs a lot of practise and is not an easy method in the wild. If there is a known exploit that is fast and silent like overlifting attacks or raking on really poor quality cylinders and easy key bitting then it might be an option for a burglars. Some might try a pulling attack or other methods you never know. But if it needs more time than normal to apply an attack it is the best protection. If the door is looking extra heavy or the lock extra tricky they might not even try as it looks too risky. So in any case i would recommend to invest in a good lock as well as in a good door (and windows!). You can only make it harder and more time consuming that it is in general not worth to try

@@MrBlackMagic Since it's easy for a burglar to snap a handle and gain access to a cylinder, do you think it would be a good idea to weld the outside handle to the door instead of letting it be fixed by screws? Provided that you can still change the cylinder when needed by removing the plate that's on the inside of the door and then removing the cylinder from the inside

@@johnsmall3105 you could try several ways to increase the pull & drill resistance. Go ahead and try it out. But there are in general variations of a given lock type that offers extra protection for this kind of attacks you should also look for.

the marks on the modified half diamond are not related to this specific lock but of course such marks could be used as indicators for the exact slider position. The pick i used is thinned so that it fits easy and wont touch the warding. In general you can use a regular hook or half diamond for this lock as there are no false gates in the sliders you dont have to be too precise while setting. For learning this lock you can use progressive pinning: remove for example all dimple pins except for 4 so you can very easy pick this first part, get to the false set and train setting the sliders before picking the lock with all elements inserted. A step by step way to learn more advanced locks

Thanks a lot :)

The thickness is around 0.7cm. I would recommend to use the newest design of my fingerpin tool: imgur.com/a/GryKt2X / workupload.com/file/g3CxQw9Fjhp. Also you can check out one of my older related videos about this topic: [11] Fingerpin Tutorial

I bought it directly from a friend. Just search "assa 700" and you should find a vendor that will ship to your place

The 700 series are replaced by the newer Assa d12, since 2010. But 700 is still in production, and we have it our my house (as millions here do, or even the 500 series dated from the 50ties). The problem today with it, is that Assa have raised the price "to get rid of it". We have them in stock in our store, but they doesn't sell anymore, since there are so many chinese copies of that keyway floating around here in Sweden. Right now we only make after market cylinders. The secúrity market here is falling in normal houses since all big warehouses sell bad copies of this cylinder(keyway) and most people buying it because it is cheap.

I made this tool together with some others especially for slider/fingerpin/sidepin manipulation. You can see more details about it here www.reddit.com/r/lockpicking/comments/mgcjwq/custom_tools_for_sliders_fingerpins_sidepins_more/