the cons are that the filament holder is originally on the back and that my other printer is now a filament dryer

Hello sir

Why are you not getting to the point but repeating the same stuff all over again?

I have a old creality cr10s

Nice one 👍

Winning the lottery would be a very traumatic experience for this guy

Try some sunlu filament thay are on plastic spool ,hope this helps ,all the best.

I am going to get a p1s.try to use plastic spools it will definitely help you.

this dude...

always a good when i see new vid :)

although just had problem with .2 nozzle (.04 layer) isnt great but amazing printer

great review just got it also tip for the black wire u dont need to tape it u can hook it on to the 5 ptfe tube holder and put it with ams ptfe tubes there is a slightly smaller hook it is supposed to go threw

So why are you using cardboard spools when bambu lab say not to in the ams that's what causes problems with the ams .

2 people to carry? It cant be that heavy its not made of cast iron.

Lots of crying about very petty stuff. Lol

What is the size of the white table on which the printer is placed

Thank you! And thanks for validating that the instructions aren’t sufficient. Why they didn’t make a short video and add a QR code to watch it on the packaging baffles me. For one thing, the instructions don’t even talk about how to remove the old filter. It’s a weird mechanism and the last thing an owner wants to do is break it by yanking wrong on the old filter.

What are the disadvantages of the printer

Similar to the JML Go Fryer

Do you have a link to the model?

I just bought this printer, and it is the first 3d printer I have ever bought. Thank you for the video you produced showing what the capabilities that the printer can do, it reinforce my thoughts that I bought the right 3d printer for my first printer. Thank you

Noticed you paused printing. Is this printer too loud to run while you were filming?

Filament gets stuck a lot you say with the rolls sat in the AMS with cardboard rolls which is a no no and the cardboard dust alone is bad for the system

link to prints?

What filament type did you use?

I got P1P couple months ago and for me, the Bambu Lab printers are like paradise for people who want to print lol. But I dont have AMS so maybe you had some problem that I didnt had. I didnt buy AMS because of the waste. Too much.

Great job! Thank you! I have 2 to rehab

How much would it cost to print a 6-hour object, from a print-farm business? I imagine having someone else do the print is going to be the better option if if you're only going to do a print every once in a while? Aside from Lidar , and more material support , any thoughts between the Bambu P1S and X1C? Infimech TX printer?

Welcome Desi. There's definitely a lot of pros and cons with 3D Printing, and starting with such a machine is a wonderful start, Bambulabs have definitely gone out of their way to make things easy to at least start and that multicolour benchy is pretty cool. Best wishes in the journey, make cool stuff!

Very nice video to appreciate printing quality.❤

Welcome to 3D printing. It definitely sucks you in. It is so fun to design and make your own functional parts.

Your 2 complaints, it's too big and it's too hard to send it back. I think you're better off with something else so U don't complain. This was a useless video. Hopefully U make better ones. I hate a complainer. You're just a dating same things over and over again

Explaining how easy Bambu Studio is a nice pro for people who are new to 3D printing. I think the ease of use is the most beneficial pro of the Bambu printers. I would definitely use the advanced mode in the slicer and learn more about the different settings. You don't have to mess with the speed so much but tweaking some quality, strength, and support settings are important for various prints. Like I personally use .28 or .24 resolution a lot because the quality is still incredible while speeding up the process. Changing the infill pattern is actually very important too and for some reason every printer manufacture defaults to a grid pattern that can cause layer shifts when printing at higher speeds. Using Gyroid is great for added strength and stability while also being able to use less filament. I usually use 6-15% Gyroid and its faster/stronger than using 25-40% Grid. I also use Rectilinear a lot too because its very similar to the Grid pattern but its one of the fastest infills to print. Strength isn't as good as Gyroid but you can still get away with a lower infill density while being faster. I have found that 100% infill with Rectilinear is actually faster than using 70% Gyroid. Now you don't need 100% infill on many models but its great to know its quicker if you do need it. I don't like using Rectilinear with PETG though because it doesn't print as well for me and the infill doesn't seem as strong but PLA has been great. Messing with the support settings can be very beneficial as well. I usually use Tree supports as much as possible because they can use less filament, are quicker, come off easier. I like to change the first layer expansion to 4 or 5mm so the supports don't fail on longer prints and in some cases I will ad a raft layer. Bambu Studio doesnt have this setting but in Orca Slicer, I usually set the branch density from 40-60% depending on the model. I have found that it supports the model way better and when you break off the supports, you are left with a more even surface than the 30% they have by default. Definitely download OrcaSlicer and watch tons of videos on the calibration process as well as various settings to adjust. Not too many specifically for the P1S but these settings can apply to almost any FDM printer. Bambu Studio is just a fork of OrcaSlicer so they don't get as many features as quick as Orca but you can easily login with your Bambu account and the settings are saved across the two slicers. Orca is basically identical to Bambu Studio so its going to feel very comfortable to use. Tinkercad is really cool too and more user friendly but it can be limiting, I would look into learning Onshape. They have a free version thats extremely powerful but it can be harder to learn. I'm still learning it myself but there are so many more tools and benefits with certain models. Fusion360 is still everyone's go to but if you aren't a student then it can get pretty expensive. Its also more difficult to learn than Tinkercad. The cardboard spools can cause issues in the AMS and not all solutions online actually fix the problem but they can help. I hear adding electrical tape around the edge of the cardboard makes them grip better, some people print the rings to snap on, and I think the most beneficial is used large heavier ball bearings in the center of the spools. They are on Amazon fairly cheap and they help prevent the spool from slipping. The AMS lite is better when using cardboard spools but you also have the filament out in the open and it doesn't work with the P1S. I get why companies use cardboard spools but I think they should just go to reusable plastic spools and selling refills. You can also print a filament winder that I recommend as well because it makes it more simple to rewind filament on a plastic spool as well as ensure there are no tangles. Even spools that are neatly wound can have tangles and it should be impossible when they are spooling but I have had them half way through brand new spools and it ruined the prints. Another helpful tip is to order filament online rather than getting them in store. I got 3 spools at MicroCenter when I bought my P1S and they were $27-35 a spool of PLA that I can get for $10-25 on Amazon. The inland filament is not worth more than $18 a spool and the Cookiecad filament I got was really nice but Eryone filament is a lot cheaper and better in most cases. Cookiecad has some really nice colors that more brands are starting to come out with but $35 a spool is just stupid. A lot of people use Kingroon filament and you can get them for as little as $90 for 10 rolls on their website or ebay. They are usually the same color spool but you can pay a little more and get 10 rolls of various colors. I haven't personally used them yet but its been a lot of peoples go to. I also really like Eryone's filament and if you order in bulk on their website you can them as little as $13 a spool. Elegoo's Rapid PLA+ and PETG are usually my go to right now but I only use their black or white because its way cheaper. 4 spools of the Rapid PLA+ in Black is usually around $47 and the PETG is usually around $41. Their PETG is really nice too and I can actually print it as fast if not faster than their Rapid PLA and that's crazy because most PETG's max out their volumetric flow at 12-15 mm3/s when I'm running it at 22 mm3/s. My other go to at the moment is GST3D PLA+ because I had about 6 spools left over from an order 2 years ago. I don't recommend them now because the company went downhill a little over a year ago but IIIDMAX was a sister company who had better QC and they sell the spools at the same price when buying bulk. I have only used their PLA+ but buying 10 spools for $8-12 each depending on sales, is really nice. I can also run them just as fast as my other high speed filaments and I think the max volumetric flow I got was 25 mm3/s but I usually run them at 20 mm3/s. Anyway, hope this information is helpful and can help with any reliability issues you might have.

It's extremely hard to find opinions from people with a very "average" perspective, and that in turn makes it hard to reference reviews for the average user. It's easy for people enthusiastic about something to mistake all others as equally passionate and have the same demands on a product, just as it's easy for a casual user to be out of touch with what power users of a product take for granted. Because searching for information often leads to discussions in 3D printing enthusiast communities, research may skew towards good products for power users. For example, people will prioritize attachments like the AMS because it helps with large print volumes or complex printing projects as well as other quality of life stuff, yet are incapable of imagining this product may have downsides, or simple tradeoffs for people who value other things in life. A few hundred dollars and the space taken up by it is truly not worth it for someone who just prints once or twice a year. If I ask around all the people I know who owned 3D printers for a long time, most of them only really print something once or so a year and performs no maintenance. It is treated just like a home 2D printer: used once in a blue moon to print documents, and should prioritize ease of use + low maintenance vs a printer that outputs vibrant, accurate images on a variety of exotic papers, but will clog if it sits for a few months and is a pain to maintain. Information on inconveniences for casual users and advice on making things easier for that use case are just as important as the latest optimizations for how a specific way of vibrating helps with print quality under specific circumstances, yet sadly people either forget or get extremely mad that "average" people can see inconveniences with a design choice, and let others know about it so they can make an informed decision.

This video is funny. He obviously never had to deal with an Ender or pretty much any printer from just a few years ago

oh gosh careful with cardboard spools in the ams, the dust from the board grinding can build up and cause weird issues. what i do is i peel the sides off and keep the filament held to the core and put it in one of bambu's reusable spools. if you goof up though you could get spaghetti so be careful with my pro-strategy

It's kind of funny to me how much people complained about the sound of the Ender 3, which to me was practically silent, yet they defend the noise of this thing which is really quite impressively loud and difficult to sit next to. On the other hand, I've never had any issues printing on the p1p, it's been flawless even on 8 or 10 year old filament I've had sitting around. I have a P1P, and it's much easier to maintain, although I've been thinking of enclosing it to try to keep the noise down. To reduce waste, I've tweaked my profile so there is 0 purge when no filament change and only 20mm when changing. With 20mm I have found that by the time it purges during start up and prints the prime lines it's all clear.

The thing about the space it takes up, it's essentially the same footprint as everything needed for your standard bed slinger, you're just getting a box that defines those dimensions to you.

I think I disagree, respectfully, with everything said.

I disagree with not buying the AMS combo. It's so nice and easy to load 4 materials and just be able to press go. It loads and unloads itself and you have to do nothing except push the filament into the feeder in the AMS itself. Plus it doubles as a dry box. Plus you get it for $100 off over buying them separate and don't have to pay that huge shipping price.

The fuck are you on about? Are you paid by competitors or something?! I have the X1C and i love it, no failed print after 6 months. Perfect results. Prints being used in my inventions for analysers in the oil industry, it is fucking amazing. In lieu of printing metal i cannot ask for more from an additive printer. Maybe they sold you some bootleg fake in India

What the hell does tinkercad or meeting people when buying filament have to do with a bambu labs printer? This is an absolute waste of time for a video.

I have I P1S if a print fails or just doesn't work out, it wasn't the printer it was operator error ... wrong slicer settings, wrong build plate selected etc, ect ...compared to to my elegoo neptune 2s, my P1S sits on a pedestal and since I got a Bambu I have not looked back. Bambu for the win in my books!

Uh, I bought my X1C locally, loaded it into my car, drove it home, unloaded it from the car and was making amazing prints within an hour, all by myself. It also has a silent mode.

Great video! Any advice since posting about how to service the extruder more efficiently?

This must be your first 3D printer because the "cons" you are mentioning are actually not cons and are benefits over other printers. Go buy a bed slinger from Creality and then come back with a review of the P1S. The P1S is the only printer I have owned that just worked out of the box. It prints fast, its reliable, and its very easy to use. If you are having issues with a Bambu printer, 3D printing just isn't for you. The P1S is actually smaller than the A1 and the P1S is not very big for a 3D printer. Its bigger than an Ender 3 but it has a bigger bed and print volume but the space is actually very well utilized. You can also set multiple side by side and most people have mini print farms on cheap metal shelving units. Its not even very heavy, it weighs 28.5lbs so I don't know why you need two people to carry it. Returns for any printer company when ordering from their website is a pain. QIDI wanted me to pay $1400 to return a defective X-Plus 3 to China because it weighs 68lbs. As for it being loud, any printer that is printing up to 500mm/s is going to be loud. This one is actually one of the quieter ones on the market and my XP3 is so much louder. Clogs nozzle and hot end clogs are usually caused by wrong filament calibrations and moisture. If you are printing a filament at a higher volumetric flow than it can support, you will get a clogs. The AMS does have issues with using cardboard spools so that can lead to retraction issues and the filament getting tangled but Bambu also addresses this and doesn't recommend cardboard spools. For miniatous, your issues with space is the nature of an enclosed printer. The waste is a problem but you can change settings to reduce the waste. Download OrcaSlicer, run the calibrations for every brand and type of filament you plan on printing, and tweak the settings for waste management. Also, make sure you have the settings correct for you filament, don't use the wrong bed plate or print certain materials too fast and make sure the cooling is sufficient. Changes in ambient temperature can cause problems still so you want to create a filament profile for changes in 10 degrees at least. And this goes for every printer. I have been 3D printing since 2017 when I got an Anet A8 I had to build myself. I have owned 11 other 3D printers over the years but took a break for 2 years because I was tired of the constant problems with printers and the P1S has been the most reliable, easiest to use, and has the best print quality. I had the AnkerMake M5C and it was defective and the clogs with their nozzle is basically a known issue at this point. I got the X-Plus 3 from QIDI and I have had nothing but problems with it that lead to me finally having to buy new parts to fix it because the manufacture gave me no support after 3 months when I contacted them on day one. It also goes down constantly and I keep finding new issues once I fix another one. Before that, I had a couple from Creality, Sovol, Anycubic, and Longer. I have been using the P1S for about 3 months now and the only problems I have had was selecting the wrong bed plate because I used the app to pick the print and they were uploaded for the X1C, accidentally not changing the filament type before slicing, and changes in the ambient temperature when like turning on a ceiling fan or turning the heat on in the room. Its all been my fault but I can get reliable results every time because I know what settings to change to prevent issues. Any printer or product will eventually have issues and tons of people have problems with their Bambu printers, but do some research on the other printer manufactures and problems people are having. I used to get printers with severely warped beds, defective extruders, bent lead screws, and defective main boards out of the box and it would all leave me with a brand new paper weight until the manufacture would finally send me the parts. I finally just started using Amazon because I could exchange them easier because manufactures are almost impossible to get to take returns and you have to argue back and forth for months to get your replacement parts. I get you are having issues and might not fully understand how the printer works like most people, but a lot of the problems can be avoided if you take the time to learn about 3D printing in general.

...when did you plan to get to any of the pros? If you didn't like it ,why keep it?

Thanks for sharing 👍

Lay the unit down on its back side may be easier for you . Thanks for the video looking forward to getting mine regardless. 😎👍

4:25 It's not metal. Liar.