@@polizei16 you are very welcome

You can program to have brake + Rev.

It depends what a little bit means. But yes there is always some play.

I'd say about 1 to 2mm on each bearing.@@RCeXtra

When I cover bag 6 I show how to install the rear sway bar. The concept will be the same for the front. If you are still struggling, let me know.

www.amainhobbies.com/tamiya-ps30-brilliant-blue-lexan-spray-paint-100ml-tam86030/p125400

You need to change the safety link number in each model when binding. I have a video here that shows how to do this for the m17 that should be similar to your TX.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/aH3NZGSHjs2WhNEsi=V18FoZdaE5tL5Owo

I have been using this method for a very long time with no problems. Why do you think 5 amps is max? Tuning to 5 amps is a method but not ideal for all motors.

What makes you think its not working? Turn the esc off and back on. Run tbe programmer again and see what the settings are

@@LegendsPizzaCo it doesn’t save. Their helpline is useless.

I take my time building. Roughly 1 day for the roller and 1 day for electronics and radio setup.

Ron life happened, and I really have not run my car much to offer you a valid opinion. I am getting ready for the indoor carpet series, though, and will have more time. The binding of a cv joint typically produces traction due to the geomtry of the suspension and the resistance of the cv a downward force is produced at the wheels.

I would recommend you install the capacitor if there is not one installed yet. This helps to keep the power delivery to your esc clean.

@@RCeXtra ​ @ihcnehc But it says that the Elite version is built in with the NPC. Still need to use it?

@@psychozeros yes you should still use the capacitor

@@RCeXtra Meaning to say I should take out the current capacitor that comes preinstall with and installed with the new NPC?

@psychozeros the standard one is OK to use. If you accidentally hook up your battery polarity backwards, that cap will not survive, but everything else should be fine.

In this case when you bind the new receiver the old one will no longer be bound to your transmitter.

Haha I have been doing it for awhile.

There is more strength if you use both. I personally use a single Ti cross pin in my 17.5 car and have not had any issues.

I assume you're referring to the end point adjustment? If yes the steering should always be adjusted to prevent overloading the servo as described in this video. Setting the steering to 150 can damage it. The 150 end point on the throttle does not make the car go any faster but can make it feel more punchy. For this I would recommend that you try it and use where you like it. I find for me that depending on track size I do like the throttle above 100 but not the brake.

Only place to hide from the honey do list!

Programmers are cheap and very much worth it. I am sure you could take it to your local hobby shop and they would help you out. Honestly, though, this is intended to be a high-end racing esc where Rev is not legal.

@RCeXtra thank you. I ordered programmer. They should sell together imo kind of a brick without one. Lol

There is a setting that allows you to turn the reverse on. Most tracks don't allow you to use reverse. Its been a while since i messed with this but I think you have to be in practice mode to select reverse.

@@RCeXtra cheers

Without more info, I do not know how to help you. Calibration should not affect steering, though, so it must be something else.

Sorry I need to re-record that one. I was sick that day.

I am using the MKS 575sl. The mks 550lx is another great option. For lipos I have 1 per car and just recharge between runs. I have not really tested my cars for maximum run time but they easily make a 7 min main. The battery capacity will vary based on the mah of the pack. I am using the highest mah I can find in the ulcg thickness which is 4400 mah. For stock motor classes you will not want to go any lower than this mah and I wouldn't exceed roughly 6000.

@@RCeXtra thank you very much for your help advice

Shouldn't require any washers in the bell cranks. Only the hat bushings. Ball stud washers are only used under the ball studs for the bell cranks.

Thank you 👍

When I am building a stock spec car I generally do not use grease inside the gear box for the gear mesh. I do use grease everywhere else the manual says. You can watch my build series on the b6.4 for all the details. Using the kit black grease is not essential. In fact, I only use the kit grease for my turnbuckles!

@@RCeXtra ok cool thanks yeah Iv used the tlr kit grease on turnbuckles as well to help them seat into the cups

Glad that it helped

No prep for the carpet we run on. Normally 1 to 2 five minute runs and they are the best. Tracks are very different though so ideally you would find a fast guy or two and ask.them what they are doing.

@@RCeXtra I’m running Schumachers and I hate them

@@wrenchesandcars5161 I can't say as I have never run schumacher but the AE cars are great.