Well the first thing that comes to mind is the fact that there are 2 different actuator codes. I am fairly confident you are going to up against an electrical issue whether multiple actuators or possibly more likely a harness issue like mouse chew. Look very carefully for any damage to the wiring between the trunk and the under dash going to the black hvac box. Also the other code about refrigerant suction pressure I'm not entirely sure but there is a pressure sensor on the ac lines under the trunk tub too.

@@paulkelley86 thank you for your answer!! I will investigate in those areas.

I also did my first clutch with my dad. He will remember it as well. I pray his deployment goes well. 🇺🇸

Yeah they work fine, I just prefer the clean and pinpoint the start of the leak method.

They call to replace the s pipe, and I recommend it simply because GM recommends it. I replaced it. The feed pipe from the high pressure pump I did reuse, no issue.

The only way it would is if so much oil got on the belt it slipped off, in which case you would have no alternator so your battery light would be on and car will be dying soon and it won't have a water pump spinning so it will be overheating. If you don't have those symptoms it is unrelated.

Lol, California has some unique reasons why what I do makes sense. At least for me. Thank you.

Strange times, but while other schools were closed we did this to appease the state so we could stay open FYI

The purpose of the video is to help you diagnose. No one knows what's wrong with your car without checking some things as part of the diagnosis. You could start with what is shown in the video or have it towed to a good quality repair shop that will charge for their time to diagnose.

"Clutch engaged" from a technician perspective is literally that, the clutch (think disc) engaged meaning the clutch PEDAL is up. I believe I know what you are saying, speaking from a driver perspective the pedal down is engaged, just understand under that condition the clutch disc is actually disengaged. Yeah I'm sure. It's all about varying pressure on the pedal and having that change the noise. You are varying the load on the bearing. We test bearings like that regularly.

​@@paulkelley86 No, im talking about it from a "technician" perspective. The throw out bearing would be making sound when the clutch is engaged. The TOB spins with the clutch. From a driver perspective, the clutch pedal down is still clutch engaged, but i understand what you mean that most people view it that way and it can be misunderstood. I currently have 2 cars, where the problem is opposit from eachother. On one of them, the sound is there when in neutral and clutch engaged. Sound dissapears when i disengage the clutch. On the other, the sound isnt there in neutral with clutch engaged. But if i disengage the clutch, the sound comes, and i can control it with the pedal.

@Ruudiii The clutch disc stops spinning when the clutch pedal is down, this is clutch disengaged, period. Clutch engaged is pedal up, disc spinning and connecting the flywheel to the input shaft of the transmission as a result of the clamping force provided by the pressure plate, period. If your pedal is down, your clutch is disengaged. With that being said, I recommend you watch the other 2 videos I linked in the description to understand better. One of them is the "opposite" of this video where a pilot bearing is making noise. To be sure it's clear, the throw out bearing doesn't exactly spin with the clutch, the inner race of the bearing contacts the clutch disc, so it may loosely spin with the clutch when the pedal is up but there is little to no actual force passing through the bearing. The outer race is the housing of the bearing which is commonly clipped or attached some way to the release fork, which absolutely does not spin. The whole point of the video is that you are varying the force on the bearing with pedal pressure, if the noise changes pitch with varying pressure, it's an issue with the release aka throw out bearing. Again, yes, I am sure.

@@paulkelley86 "The clutch disc stops spinning when the clutch pedal is down, this is clutch disengaged, period. Clutch engaged is pedal up, disc spinning and connecting the flywheel to the input shaft of the transmission as a result of the clamping force provided by the pressure plate, period. " Yes, im fully aware??? Thats what im saying?? 🤣 The throw out bearing doesnt spin with the clutch? So youre saying that when the clutch is engaged and the sound is present, it is not the throw out bearing?

We are on the same page now. Throw out bearings don't all fail the same. If it makes the same noise or very similar to this video, and changes pitch with pedal pressure, it's a throw out bearing. The rollers in the bearing and the races have a defect, maybe pitting or spelling, etc. Similar to a wheel bearing, if you increase the force on the bearing, the noise will get worse and louder. However Throw out bearings are also known to get kind of a loose rattle sound, which would stop or quiet down with slight pedal pressure. This is common as well. Especially when they are all full of clutch dust. Again though, the key is the noise changes with pedal PRESSURE not fully engaged vs fully disengaged. Quick comment to address what I am seeing in the comments sowing confusion: yes when you bring the throwout bearing into contact with the pressure plate diaphragm springs you could picture dirty springs making the sound... but let me help you understand. The entire purpose for that bearing is to reduce wear. That's really the purpose of all bearings if you think about it. So if you believe that we are shoving a piece of metal up against those springs which may be spinning every time we let the pedal up, that's crazy. They would be worn down and mangled in no time. That's NOT what happens. The inner race of the throw out bearing is against them at all times. It should not have substantial movement between the two. The springs should be clean sure, but dirty springs are not what is going to cause a noise. If the bearing is stopping, then engaging the spinning springs, the bearing is the problem. It should not be coming to a stop. The fix if it is? The bearing and the entire clutch kit, since the springs are damaged... which started with the throw out bearing. Ok? Now the way you are wording it is very common, people want to make it a question of clutch engaged vs clutch disengaged. That's not really the best way to test a Throw out bearing. That's how you test a pilot bearing vs. Transmission input shaft bearing. If your clutch is engaged, your input shaft is spinning, so if pressing down the pedal and releasing the clutch makes the noise stop.... well... the input shaft stops so it would indicate and issue with the input shaft bearing or depending on the other conditions (neutral? 1st? 4th? Stopped? Moving?) We can have a pretty good indication of the problematic bearing. Take it a step further, which is in the last video listed by the way so for anyone else reading, watch the video because there is a lot of bad information in the comments that I don't run around and correct.... let's say the noise is only occurring when moving and changes with vehicle speed, that's more like an output shaft bearing. Back to clutch engaged/disengaged condition, if you disengage the clutch, the disc stops, the input shaft stops right? Well... the engine crankshaft and flywheel continue to turn.... and remember the input shaft (stopped) is set right into the back of the crankshaft/flywheel (still spinning). So the speed difference would in this situation is the reason we need a pilot bearing or bushing. The pilot bearing outer race spins with the crankshaft the inner race stops with the input shaft. Disengaging the clutch brings out the noise? Look to the pilot bearing. There are a lot of noises and nuisances in the clutch and transmission. After having hundreds of students in class, 99% want to make it clutch engaged noise = throw out bearing l, clutch disengaged nosie = pilot bearing. But see its not that simple and that overlooks any and all transmission bearing noises as a possibility. That's the reason I started making the videos. It's hard to explain and the best way to get people to understand is to get them all on the same page with terms and then show them. That's why I insist on wording it my way, 9 out of 10 people will explain this completely wrong and come up with all sorts of incorrect diagnosis. P.s. I was part of fixing the car in the video, so I have the answer sheet, easier for me.

If it's tire related, the machine can measure it. If it's something like a driveshaft, obviously the machine can't see that. Based on when it started, request road force balanced and ask for the road force variation numbers for each. Sometimes techs don't really understand what those numbers are.

Thank you good to know just curious with the driveshaft. How much run out do you think is acceptable for a one piece aluminum driveshaft.

@IHcubcadet there may be a spec, but we don't commonly test like that although there may be a spec. There is an electronic vibration analyzer that can identify different frequencies and determine if it is at a driveshshaft frequency vs say a tire or even a flexplate frequency. They are all turning at different speeds. If we determine it to be driveshshaft related we would most likely send it to a driveline specialty shop that can balance a driveshshaft on their machine.

Rock auto has it, Amazon too.