My thinking is that the wood strop with compound will maintain the micro bevel as flat as possible as opposed to the leather strop with compound which will naturally convex an edge eventually. Both blades are as sharp as I ever get anything I use. I understand that it isn't exactly a scientific comparison, but it is a practical comparison that I was doing for myself and I thought why not share it with others. That said, thanks for watching and sharing your thoughts. 😁

@ you are about it, I m just pointed out that that different materials used for stroping so we cannot speak safely for the outcome, keep rolling nice videos !

Thanks, and good luck. Reach out if you have questions.

I responded, hope it helps.

I believe they are made in limited runs, and then aren't made again for a while. It's possible a few obscure retailers have one in stock, but until they make another run, you may have to look on the used market.

@@JoshsShop ok many thanks and congrats for yor video!!

What would you use to sharpen your blades in place of the whetstone?

The gloves I'm wearing in this video are just vinyl gloves because I don't like getting all the sharpening swarf on my hands, no cut resistance. I generally don't wear gloves or guards when I whittle/carve for the exact reason you mentioned, they make me have less control. I am just very careful about my cuts and control. That said I understand why people like to wear safety gloves. The best ones I have found for the rare occasions when I do want to wear them are a fabric glove dipped in a rubbery coating on just the fingers and palm. They are tighter fitting and offer better grip. I haven't tried this specific brand, but something like these: a.co/d/10Jg4xC

They are pretty neat, thanks for watching.

I mean, um, I probably, uh, could, but seriously, sorry if it was distracting. I try to stop myself, but some obviously slip out. More on some days than others, and sometimes editing them all out results in really choppy audio.

I've always got one in my pocket.

It is oddly satisfying

My problem is I diddle to much brother 🇺🇲😎🙏🤣

Maybe. It seems a little wiggle room doesn't hurt.

I have a detailed video on scale removal here if it is useful: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jpvJmp6OibCjj7csi=qK1_tGqnPTNQWqfk

A good idea.

😁 Thanks. I always find it interesting to see how people set up their spaces, especially the smaller ones, so I thought I would share.

I'll look into those, thanks.

Absolutely, glad you enjoyed it. Thanks for watching.

Glad you found it useful. I hope it turns out well, no pun intended. 😁

If the scissors are broken, you should be able to fairly easily make a warranty claim. I believe all you would need to pay is shipping, which is much less than the cost of a new cybertool.

@@JoshsShop Not broken but a bit... Misaligned. Is life warranty?

Yes the warranty is a lifetime warranty. If it is just bent, you may be able to bend it back. I have done that before with several tools, otherwise they should be able to do that for you.

You certainly could modify the large blade, and I have on a knife or two. Depending on what you are carving it will work great. The only issue is trying to carve things with a small/tight radius. The large blade is too thick/tall to get into the tighter spaces, but it will work just fine for longer flatter cuts (probably better than the small blade).

You could scavenge the hook layer from a modern knife and add it to the champ, but honestly, it would be easier and not much more money to buy a used modern Swiss Champ if that is all you are after.

@@JoshsShop I didn't realize it's so cheap, even for a brand new one. When i bought it as a kid in 1990 it seemed like a fortune to me. In my memories it was about $100 in 1990 dollars. Did they get cheaper?

No it is still pricey, but adding a layer to a Swiss Champ will be a pain, that is a lot of layers. A sacrificial knife with the hook layer will cost you at least $20 used, likely a bit more. A used Swiss Champ can be had for $50-$60 if you are patient. So I guess a good bit more, but still might be a better route.

@@JoshsShop I'm in Europe, a new one is 75€ on Amazon, maybe it's cheaper here

@Emeric62 could be, they are between $100 and $115 USD

All viable options. I just wanted to see how well this would work, and it does pretty well.

Sorry, I cover it in detail in another video: kzbin.info/www/bejne/jpvJmp6OibCjj7csi=HBPvxUmEIKMKoBjf

@@JoshsShop ah, thank you!

Sorry for the late reply, I was on vacation when you commented, and I forgot to get back to you. If I remember correctly I used, "Mahoney's Finishes Walnut Oil Wax." I think you want something that is going to soak into the wood rather than sit on it, so that you don't crack or flake your finish when you play the frog. Any drying oil would work well (tung, lin seed, walnut, etc.).

Some people prefer putting the wood on the floor of the oven, the theory I have heard is that the fire is then closer to the floor for direct heating. Nowadays I tend to use a wood holder, it is just a little easier to get the fire started and to move it around. I don't think I have ever seen a wood holder in a commercial oven, I make it a habit to check out all the ovens I see when I am out and about. I'm not sure it makes a huge difference in practice, other than convenience (and cost, if you have a pricey wood holder).

I am sure there is one that will fit, but I am unaware of one off the top of my head.

I am unaware of a hack, although I'm sure something could be done if someone was willing to look into it. The refill is called a, "Victorinox Retractable Pen Refill," and is available in multiple places online (at least here in the U.S.). I might take a crack at it, if I do I will let you know.

Thanks for watching, and I'm glad you enjoyed this video. I have added scissors to a Cadet, but as their own layer ( kzbin.info/www/bejne/aJ3Gk62Bmr98bKcsi=dDMpAgx_29YzwwaI ). If you replace the nail file, you would also have to remove the blade, they are in the same layer, because the scissors require their own layer.

The 111mm knives have similar construction. Grinding the blade down would be easy enough, just be careful not to over heat the steel. You could cut the liner lock off and smooth things down fairly easily I would imagine. You can use a drill or drill press to sand down slightly oversized brass rod to use as rivets/pins. Just be careful during disassembly to not mess up the bushings that the scales snap onto that are on the pins and you can reuse them.

Not a bad idea, but bear in mind, drilling out the tools of a Swiss Army Knife is not for the faint of heart. You really need a carbide tipped bit, and even then the hardened steel is a pain. I have done it more than once.

Yeah, they are handy. There is also a very thin pen in the "plus scales" on 91mm knives.

Exactly, I do that in several of my other videos.

Thanks, I am flattered.

@@JoshsShop Happy to share my friend!