Thanks for your comment. I started woodturning a few years ago and slowly acquired more woodwork machines. The issue is that the metal working machines were getting a lot of wood dust over them. Over the last 3 or so months I have built a dedicated shed for the woodturning and woodworking gear. I plan to do an update video of the new shed in the next few days which may be of interest to you.

Perhaps the previous owner failed to remove nails from the wood they were planning? Thanks for watching and your comment.

Thank you for your comments

Thank you.

Thank you. Happy new year.

Yes, I have made a lot of tools to make other tools. Thanks for watching.

No problem, thanks for watching.

Thanks.

Thank you. The speed control works well, but unfortunately it is not practical for a woodturning lathe. In woodturning you are always changing speeds and the manual hand wheel takes some time to get to the right speed. This setup would be ideal for a machine where you need to change the speed only occasionally.

Every used a mill before? Every single insert or end mill dulls on the edges just as his had. WHY is there always one who has to p*ss on everyone's Wheaties?

@@UptownSport Not sure what you are trying to say here, your english isn't good. Milling into steel most commonly uses the flute edge, sharpening the bottom is only good if you're using it as a drill bit. without a sharp bottom and sharp flutes the cutter is really no good. Who is P**ing in wheaties? simply facts.

@@thomasjeffersoncry You've obviously never used a mill before.

@@UptownSport used many! Enough dull one as well to know what I am saying. you must be confused.

Note that I'm sharpening the ends of the flutes, not the spirals. I ensure you that after sharpening the ends these end mills are sharp and cut very well.

Thank you.

Thanks Thinus.

No timber? What are the houses made of?

@@thehobbymachinistnz Brick and concrete mainly, I thought the termites back home in Oz where bad, but they are worse here.

For the life of me I can't stop calling my recently built workshop the "Garage". So hard to change linguistic habits.

Thanks for watching Mark. I loosely use the terms shed, garage and workshop synonymously.

Yes, wood in our country is expensive as well. I was lucky to have some from the demolition of the old shed.

@@thehobbymachinistnz Unfortunately it is not just that.I used to buy wooden planks from my local hardware store,it was construction grade but it was cheaper and when you pull it trough thickness planer it was decent pine boards .But problem is ever since construction in this area started groving rapidly i cant buy wood anymore. Its overpriced ,after 2019 price went up 3x and whats worse of it its not dry at all.Its still full of sap,guy cant dry it fast enough to meet the demand .And if i want to buy a dried wood that will cost me extra 2x and i need to go to town. The more we go further the more has world gone to a shitter .I wonder if old generations of people felt this way.

Great suggestion. That is something that I did not think of.

Thanks for your comment. I have seen one of those on the Winkys Workshop channel. Here is a link. kzbin.info/www/bejne/eWWadaR9p86grLs

@ thanks for the link! I was aware of this device, but had not seen it at winky’s. So yea, this is an excellent device. But, it’s not electronic, which is both good and bad. But I’m thinking that is you have this electronic driven screw, then you can do about the same thing with it. When the bit reaches the end of the thread it just disengages (root groove at bottom of thread), or it can just shut off the lathe. That requires a little calibration to accommodate the momentum of the lathe slowing down, but that should not be hard. Alternatively can add a brake to stop it quick. I don’t see why one should not be able to also do this function with about the same hardware and just a few lines of code difference.

Thanks for watching. I recall that I had some issues as well. I could no remember what I did when I removed the in feed table, but I certainly had the same issue of it being almost impossible to assemble when I tried putting it back together. It is probably a bad design, but it just does not fit with that piece of casting that holds the blade guard in the in feed table. From memory I had to loosen something from underneath. It may have been that nut shaped part that the handle goes through with the ball bearings in it. Or the nut itself which is connected to the center part. It was a bit like the krypton factor, I could not remove the item completely, because you could not get the item back in when you got the table on the slides. So whatever I did it was just a bit to provide enough slack to get the slides together and have the adjusting screw and nut still in position. I'm now wondering if I loosened the nut with the bearings to provide some room to remove the bearings. Then that may have been enough slack to get the table off or to put it back on. I hope this is helpful.

Thanks for watching. No we did not try the wreckers. That could be an option but in this case you really don't know what you are getting from the wreckers. The cat could also be block or not working.

Thanks for watching.

Thanks for your comment. For general private use cars we have to get a Warrant of Fitness (WoF) every 12 months (or every 6 months for older cars). But there is no tailpipe emission testing for a WoF. However they do make sure that there is no visible smoke coming out of the tailpipe. If your car was burning a lot of oil and there were clouds of smoke you would likely fail your W0F.

Yes, I was surprised that he did not pick it up. If we let him change the plugs and leads I bet he would have said that he has found another issue and that would cost thousands to fix.

No it is at least a two part system. The pipe I removed contained the two cats and bolted to another section of pipe which went down to the mufflers. I did not look to see if there is a flange between the two mufflers.

Yes, I was going to mention that in the video but did not get to it. I did a lot of research and misfires are one of the most common ways to damage the cat. This car had a lot of misfires with those dodgy HT leads and I suspect it had something to do with it.

Either raw fuel makes it's way to the first catalytic converter on startup or gets lit off in the exhaust by another cylinders exhaust valve opening. The constant hammering breaks up the ceramic matrix and resulting debris gets caught up by the second converter.

Thanks

Thanks.

Blocked fuel filter was my first thought as well.

Thanks Rob. This car has done a few KMs, over 200,000. I noticed the leads were original Subaru leads. They may have been on there from new.

@@thehobbymachinistnz Might pay to see when the timing belts were last changed ;)

The end mills I have don't have a center to sharpen.

Yes you could use an end mill sharpener. The issue in NZ is that machining equipment costs are very high here. Note that I am using an index plate so all flutes are ground exactly the same.

@thehobbymachinistnz Hi again bro Like the same in my country, Iran, everything is expensive so I appreciate your reasons. Unfortunately because of madness of our government in Iran, inflation is on the rise and the costs are going higher and higher. I checked your profile picture and found out you have a cute and loveable daughter. God bless her. 🥰 With the wish of a rosy future for everyone 💞

@@hdisah7508 Thank you. Yes, everything is going up over here like crazy as well. All the best.

Sorry, I'm not sure how to fix a broken door.

Hi, yes I run it on LPG from a BBQ gas bottle. I built the burner quite a while ago. At that time I watched a heap of KZbin videos on building burners. There are some quite complex ones, and some simple ones like my one. I don't know if my one is the most efficient or not, but it does work well.

@@thehobbymachinistnz perfect, thank you. Is there details of your burner somewhere please?

@@peterrivers809 No I don't have any plans or videos sorry. I think I made the burner well before making the foundry. The foundry was like my 3rd KZbin video so it was before I started making KZbin videos.

@@thehobbymachinistnz Thanks very much

Hi Steve, the rear tool post parting system is a lot better as it has a number of advantages. Mark Presling made one and in his videos he talks about the advantages of rear mounted compared to the conventional front tool post parting tools. Thanks for watching.

Thank you.

Thanks Michel.

No problem.

Sorry Mark. I recall a while back there were 3 or 4 videos on making a specific Hemmingway tool. Its funny how people make the same thing at the same time. Regarding that slotted hole, the blade angle is not a lot where I placed the normal hole in my second version of that part. The hole on the left is 12.9mm from the top and I drilled the hole on the right 10.9mm from the top (I was trying to find a neutral/average position). You may want to go less on the hole on the right to produce more blade angle. I may actually build another part and drill the hole 9.5mm as per the measurements in the plan.

Thank you.

Thank you.

Thanks Rob. Those parting blades that I have are a bit odd. The have a chamfer completely along the top edge. So you have to grind the top surface down to remove the chamfer and make it flat to begin with. I could have ground more off further back to produce more top relief, but I was hoping that the blade angle would help with top relief. It turned out that the blade angle was not as much as my smaller parting tool. I may make another Part B with more angle for the blade which should produce more top relief.

@@thehobbymachinistnz I also don't recommend using an angled cutting edge. I find it pushes the blade sideways away from the job and produces a cone surface (with thin blades). To each their own method. I still haven't tried carbide insert parting off blades ;) HSS works fine for me, so I never bothered. Cheers Rob

Hi I cant remember exactly but it was well over 4 litres. I would say more like 5 litres or a bit more for all three areas on the lathe.

@thehobbymachinistnz Thanks much appreciated

That is a lot of money. I guess that is in US dollars so that would be almost $3,000 NZ dollars.

I don't know if anyone has done a conversion like that. Thanks for watching.

I don't recall, but it was not a lot. A little movement is enough to grind the second algle.

Thank you

Thanks.

Thank you.

I totally agree, I watched the video and thought NO way should you wear gloves when machining!!

I have never brought ally, stainless or acetal/delrin so I don't not know where to source them from. I cast my own aluminum and that is all I use on my projects. All the stainless I have has been given to me. I have no idea of the grade though. I don't think I have turned acetal or delrin, but I did make some turning blanks out of HDPE by melting it down and squashing it up in a mold. I have a video on that process. Probably no helpful but that is my experience.

Sorry I don't know and the video does not show the model number. I had a lot of new bearings given to me and I was able to fine new bearings in that lot, so I did not actually buy them. From memory I measured them and looked up what bearing had those measurements. Then I went through and found the correct bearings. I think you will need to do the same to get the correct bearings.