@@jdc3211 Yes it did

If all 6 were actually open at the same time I would be a little worried that the module has a problem and burnt out the glow plugs. But it could be that maybe 3 out of the 6 are bad and they want to change all 6. If the glow plug circuit is open there should be a fault code logged for each one. Then the wire for each one should be checked to see if it can hold a load. If it can and the glow plug is good then the modual is at fault. I cut one of the modules open and found the tiny wires inside melted off that supply the power to the glow plugs.

Thanks for the reply, so I have changed the glow plug module and still the same, my diagnostic machine is coming back with 1 to 6 glow plug fault code (separate codes) so I think next is to change them all, also when I try cracking it I can see smoke coming from glow plug 1 and 2, what do you think they could be at fault?

the 3x 13mm bolts on the back of the turbo exhaust housing? Just a regular 13mm ring spanner about 15-20cm long was pretty straightforward for me.

It was the crankcase breather line vent.

@@sharock23c oh ok thanks

For this engine cummins won't sell us just tje pin and roller. We would have to get an entire rocker lever. But there is after market ones out there. We had to do a few engines this way as there has been a shortage on oem parts. As long as a 10 month wait. Who is gonna wait 10 months for there truck.

One great trick is to put a little bit of valve lapping compound on the head of the bolt. It really gets the socket to hang on. Even after the head is stripped out.

Not tried valve lapping compound (we call it valve grinding paste in U.K. the coarse is gritty). But I’ll bear it in mind thanks butty. Just don’t get any type of grinding paste near any moving parts. 😮 It will kill em. It’s a real awkward project/repair especially for a short ass like me. I’ve built my self a wooden cross brace so’s I can work over the top of the engine. To minimise the risk of damaging anything whilst I am suspended over the front of the engine. Modern engine’s are intensionally hard to work on. That’s why the manufacturers make so much money out of the working class. $€£🤬

If the data line is disconnected then it should throw a fault for unable to communicate with the glow plug module. If the car is warm enough it wont cycle the glow pluggs. I wonder if there could be a problem with a temp sensor and the car thinks its warm enough and does not need to cycle the plugs.

@@sharock23c Thank you so much for the reply. Wouldn't a faulty sensor give a code? No codes on my carr

It might. We call them in range faults. So if the sensor is reading between a set parameter it wont throw an actual fault. If you can get a hold of a scan tool and see what the reading is. We let the vehicle sit over night and then make sure all the temp sensors read the same. Then if you got one reading 30 or so deg above the rest then you know to check that sensor and its circuit.

@@sharock23c Thank you so much again. Will see what I can do. Btw I am from South Africa

When im done work today ill go over the wiring diagram and see if i can come up with something.

I looked up the wiring diagram at work just now. And yes 6 is the ground. If your seeing power where there should be ground I would double check battery connections, eng block ground, chassis grounds. I would suspect there is a different grounding issue that might be a root cause.

Thanks for the Input. Every comment contributes to the quality of future videos.

Its a nice vehicle to drive. The fuel milage averages around 13-14 MPG. Not that great as my one ton dodge pickup with a 6.7L diesel gets 14-15 MPG empty. Since we got this jeep. Its needed a TCM (transmission control module) that also needs to be programmed by the dealership. So that problem the dash would light up and wouldnt shift gears. Next the ECM went. Then the Glow plug module. Have done 2.5 sets of glow plugs. The jeep we got is one of the "trail rated" ones (I have little faith in these off road packages). Being trail rated the steel fuel tank is protected by a plastic tub. This tub holds all the dirt and little rocks and moisture around 3/4 of the tank and is the perfect combination to rust it out in no time. Then it threw faults for turbo boost pressure issues. Ended up being the turbo actuator that controlls the variable part of the turbo. This part is not sold separately from the dealership and requires the turbo to be changed. At a dealer cost of $9800 for parts. I found an actuator on amazon for $180. Installed it 3 years ago and works great. I want to make another video on this. Then usual stuff that all vehicles go through. Our neighbors have the same jeep same year and model with the 3.0L diesel. I am a mechanic so I fix there stuff to and it has had the same problems. But with there jeep the turbo compressor inlet pipe has a silicone seal which comes apart and damages the compressor wheel. Then its new turbo time. Dealership price for the turbo at the time was $9800. Plus labor. I called alamo turbo and i think it was 4500 from them. Call in a few favors and got it for 2500. Still excessive as we put turbos on semis at work with 15 liter engines for $750. There is an updated inlet pipe from the dealer for this problem. I like the jeep but if i wasn't a heavy duty mechanic that can fix my own things this would have been a horribly expensive vehicle to own. I would stay away from a diesel jeep unless you understand these inside and out. Just my experience. Hope this helps.

@@martinolsen6369 What kind Of Milage were you and your Neighbor looking at with these problems setting in?

I think your review of changing and checking out and glow plugs on this jeep. Vehicle was very well done, the information was at a good pace, and the information provided was complete without eliminating steps. This makes it all very clear for a novice mechanic. One item I suggest is a little more light on the subjects. Trying to see the glow plug down in those holes was a bit of a stretch with the light provided. All I know I gave you an 95 out of 100. Old-Rick