A heat gun would heat other components up while doing the job, that's not wanted
@shagsheep88322 ай бұрын
For the money they charge for these things and the effort they go to make them non-repairable, you would think they would spend the extra couple of dollars to add reverse polarity protection.
@trickydicky67882 ай бұрын
You would think so.
@quinafloat3 ай бұрын
The Fogstar app is pretty useless, in my opinion, even with a single Fogstar battery. They need to seriously look at the integration of their products as they don't seem to match each other.
@kraftyrise34903 ай бұрын
If you dont use batteries of the same age and spec this is the result they get unbalanced its your setup that is a problem not the batteries 🙄
@trickydicky67882 ай бұрын
Both batteries are the same fogstar Drift 24volt 280 AH But they do differ from each other in the sence of resistance and total AH storage.
@arunaravind31355 ай бұрын
Why this fuse burned... What is the reason.. High PV/Battery voltage or current
@arunaravind31355 ай бұрын
Or any wrong connections
@trickydicky67885 ай бұрын
Hi, I accidentally reversed the polarity when in a rush.
@trickydicky67885 ай бұрын
Hi, I accidentally reversed the polarity when I was in a rush.
@robert40275 ай бұрын
question. my incoming voltage from solor panels are normally 40-42 volts. but lately it's been hot. 103 degrees average.. . now incoming voltage says 36-38. volts during this heat wave. ...is the normal ??
@trickydicky67885 ай бұрын
Yes quite normal when the panels get hot.
@rickpaterson44036 ай бұрын
Why not just solder a link on the blown fuse then add a cct breaker on the battery lead.
@deeeeeeeench12096 ай бұрын
Takes some doing that tbf did it smell? Did it go with a pop?
@trickydicky67886 ай бұрын
No it didn't smell or go pop.
@alexalexis25446 ай бұрын
Good job at 48V ✌
@mariodasilva87296 ай бұрын
Very clever how you got the blown fuse off so quick! Good show!
@trickydicky67886 ай бұрын
Thank you much appreciated.
@kraftyrise34906 ай бұрын
Lets say for instance the power goes out and you forget to isolate the grid and power up your house with this system you are now back feeding the grid this could potentially kill a workman it is an extremely dangerous setup
@trickydicky67886 ай бұрын
I don't back feed the house without switching off the mains feed from the grid, otherwise my system would trip out, so if back feeding and the grid goes down that would not be a problem. The grid in this area very rarely goes down and if it does it is only for a few seconds. There is probably more chance of a line worker being hit by flying pig rather than me sending power his way.
@kraftyrise34906 ай бұрын
This all may be true but you still are in breach of your contract with the power suply company i imagine and are definitely breaking regulations trust me its not the correct way to do things and definitely is not safe you nead to use proper change overs so it is impossible to back feed not improbable
@kraftyrise34906 ай бұрын
Call your energy supplier and have them inspect your set up i guarantee they will condemn your installation
@polvincompoundsadmin54027 ай бұрын
Speak faster please
@herbertvonsauerkrautunterh25137 ай бұрын
I would solder on two cables and have an external fuse
@fr.lesvagues34307 ай бұрын
you're lucky, I didn't manage to open mine because of the blue resin which held very tightly
@trickydicky67887 ай бұрын
Did you heat the cover with a hot air gun first?
@fr.lesvagues34307 ай бұрын
@@trickydicky6788 yes, but did nothing as the cover react as a heatsink
@trickydicky67887 ай бұрын
Yes it would act as a heat sink being cast aluminium, probably about 10 minutes heating is needed to get temperature up to 80 to 100 degrees Celsius
@asedcopf7 ай бұрын
yup - line loss, inverter inefficiency, low irradiance, imperfect azimuth, temperature de-rate, tilt angle, dust - the label on those 100w panels should read 63W....the joys of solar reality 👍 still love it though.
@christopherstaples67587 ай бұрын
downside is now they are doing full epoxy filling to make it damn near impossible to repair now
@3D_Printing7 ай бұрын
ECO-WORTHY SOLAR PANEL MAKING LANDFILL kzbin.info/www/bejne/gWfSiYCNq8Znrtksi=-SB453iRCkKzJyLB
@SurvivalSquirrel7 ай бұрын
blewdy fuse!
@icooper52367 ай бұрын
Thought that had a safety system to stop that happening
@trickydicky67887 ай бұрын
Not on the battery connections unfortunately
@LaurenRedwood8 ай бұрын
I like the music in the background, good addition to your videos 👍🏽
@okcabral8 ай бұрын
What kind of batteries are you charging. If they're not lead acid with internal resistance that list the charge rate, you can over heat the alternator. I saw another video from another guy that had a system on his boat with Lithium phosphate batteries. The batteries had the ability to take charge amperage rtes in excess of what the alternator is normally designed for with lead acid batteries. Effectively the alternator the batteries will take everything and anything that alternator will put out beyond its rating because there's no limiting factors to regulate the amperage flow. You'll have to limit the alternators speed to keep it within its engineered limits of amperage output either by engine RPM or by changing pully size. if your wanting to exceed the alternators normal max amperage rating your going to need some serious cooling or it'll burn up. Change the pulley sizes to give more torque at the alternator and limit the alternators speed to keep its output close to its max output. Get a higher rated output alternator if need be and make efforts to increase the cooling to the internal windings if you want to exceed the ratred output for any alternator. look around for that vise I mentioned. I don't have it off hand at the moment
@trickydicky67888 ай бұрын
My batteries are lithium and I am aware of how much they will take from the alternator, I don't intend to run the system for more than a couple of minutes at a time. I will restrict the power output if I run for longer than a few minutes. Thank you for your comments I appreciate them Richard.
@neverdemagain60438 ай бұрын
Dude!! Its going to keep happening until you change the gear ratio. That gear ratio looks to be 8 engine 1 alternator.
@trickydicky67887 ай бұрын
Hi, I believe the ratio is 2.6 to 1 I know 1 to 1 would be much better but it's a case of getting getting the pulley at the right price. This is all about testing to find out the best way to go.
@trickydicky67888 ай бұрын
Thank you for your comments, much appreciated. Yes I did find I had to remove my earth neutral plug, I just need to remember Thanks Richard
@samuelchamberlain25848 ай бұрын
Yes do make sure you remove that plug when you switch back . It would be a N-E fault . Inverters and generators deal with earthing in strange ways . The ups on my desk operates floating (i.t system) as does my portable generator . Some inverters have center tapped earth (50% l-N voltage) . There are lots of youtube vids on this subject (earthing of generators and inverters) please view them and also check the installer/user manual of the inverter . Edit mark the sparkie alison has a resent vid on this .
@LucAdventure_8 ай бұрын
what kind of fuse is it for a 100/30 :/
@trickydicky67888 ай бұрын
Sorry I wouldn't know but I would imagine it to be a 50 or 60 amp fuse.
@paradiselost99468 ай бұрын
15hp- about 11.5KW. no alternator will deliver more than half the power driving it. i saw 5-6KW. jacobs law. once the load resistance falls below the winding resistance of the alternator, thats it. more current flows through the alternator, more POWER dissipated in the alternator than in the load... windings overheat from IR2. its really simple, but its also highly overlooked. a strain gauge and a tacho and you could calculate exactly how much power is being consumed by the alternator... ie, throw a set of scales in the tensioner and calibrate to ft-lbs or something... a battery isnt a resistor. seems obvious, but its worth keeping in mind. lifepo4 charges at 29V. lead acid charges at 25.8... and the alternators regulating at 27, as it should. the low battery resistance wants to pull more current, but the voltage regulator wont let it. you really want 30V at least, "power to spare". being a cheap alternator, i doubt its any different to a 12v other than the regulator. i would be surprised if its wound any differently. rip out the regulator, tickle the rotor (field) with a variable voltage, watch the output climb... and someone mentions a large motor pulley. that actually makes sense, but not at first glance... the alternator spins faster, takes less torque to spin whilst producing the same power as volts is based on how FAST it cuts magnetic lines of force. at low RPM, it takes more exciter (field) current, and produces more lenz reaction or back torque, whilst having less EMF to produce or push that current through a load. sorry, but all YT has done in this "age of information" is give people the idea that all of this is simple, whilst busily ignoring certain critical aspects that you only find out about when you actually attempt to do something "simple". then you do a google, find nothing. getting fed up, you visit the library, and find nothing in all its shiny modern literature. finally you visit a second hand bookshop, a thrift shop... and open all those old yellowing books from a century ago and lightbulbs start going off, as they delve into subjects youve never even considered before. "wave a magnet past a wire and weve created power!" if only they knew just how more complex than that it really is.
@trickydicky67888 ай бұрын
Thank you for your comments, I will try and take them on board. You certainly know what your talking about. Many thanks.
@paradiselost99468 ай бұрын
@@trickydicky6788 its tricky but easy? the stock regulator has to go, need it to be producing 30V. at least a bit higher than the fully charged lifepo4. tickle the field winding with a variable voltage as everything is currently... you will find a certain field voltage will give a "decent" charge current, a decent engine "load", and the battery voltage will rise as they charge... and you can then play with the pulley ratios as well... find the ideal field voltage and youre set... but it varies as the batteries charge. fix the field voltage at a maximum, throw a series resistance in with the batteries, can limit the current draw. take 25mR, dropping 4v at 160A, 30v supply charging at 26v, 640W dissipated, at 4.2KW charge rate. (26x160) the alternator has to deliver 5KW... at 29V from 30V, 1V drop, thats 40A at 40W, 1.16KW... with the strain guage/dyno you could then say the alternator is "x efficient" as it is, batteries just try to overload the alternator, short it out, take everything its got, despite it never even having a chance to get near full charge voltage... so it just acts like a magnetic brake, with most of the power appearing in the actual alternator... what you see on a meter is only the power through the load, not the total power! someone that knows arduino could probably rig up a PWM regulator on the field windings overnight. ping the field until current ramps to a peak then turn off again. get rid of the resistive loss. repeat. rapidly. until battery voltage demands no more... or can try an oldschool "relay based" type regulator... much the same idea?
@kevinsellsit55849 ай бұрын
That alternator never saw 150 amps during that short event and I think it is working as it should. What I don't know is what you are doing with 150 amps and do you expect those 8 or 10 gauge cables to actually deliver 150 amps continuously to something? They won't. Not for long anyway. The easy way to test the alt output is to put a battery tester on your batteries crank up a 200 amp load and see what your output from the alt is then. I suspect your system is good once you build some 4 gauge bolted cables.
@trickydicky67889 ай бұрын
Hi Kevin, No you didn't see 150amps in this video but in the video that follows you can see that it does in fact reach 194amps for a brief moment shown in the battery app I was using. Unfortunately the engine can not drive the alternator at this amount of amps. I know those jump leads I have been using are not man enough for the job, but I didn't intend to use them for long periods of time. I am probably going to make some adjustments so it will run at around 100amps. Thanks for your question Richard.
@kevinsellsit55849 ай бұрын
@@trickydicky6788 Great news! 100Amps is a healthy jolt into any system. As for the engine, valve springs/keepers and frequent oil changes make a 1000RPM boost to the governor a safe but fuel dumping option if you want or need the power. It will be a lot like flushing gas down a toilet at about 22 hp. For the springs and keepers see Oregon parts or Go Powersports. No affiliation with either. ;)
@glumpy109 ай бұрын
There is no way you can stall that engine with a 150A alternator. You have to be over volting the stator and in effect creating a mechanical brake. If this is a self reg alternator and you are over riding the regulator, you may well over charge the batteries. the charge needs to be tapered down over 80% Charge. If you blow full power into them you will damage them by over gassing which may distort the plates and over heating. Don't try to get the alt to put out all the power all the time. With lead acid batteries of this type you want to limit the max charge to about 40% AH capacity. In other words, 200AH capacity total, 80A max input. when they are above 80% Charge, then that drops down to 10%. Don't over cook the batteries.
@trickydicky67889 ай бұрын
Hi, sorry I didn't make it very clear, the battery's are not lead acid, they are lithium lifepo4 batteries 24-volt 280ah x2 and each one can be charged at a maximum of 200 amps. So basically they can take every thing that the alternator can put out. Yes maybe I need to adjust the voltage being fed to the rota. I will be doing some more testing in the next few weeks. Thank you for your interest shown.
@glumpy109 ай бұрын
Mate I highly doubt you have damaged the alt or if you even connected it backwards long enough to do anything. The alt is not a constant output. It will taper the charge off to the battery voltage as it charges. You would only come near 150A if the batterys were flat or you had something like an inverter drawing power and pulling the batteries down. The rest of the time they will just try to taper the output to what the batteries need. If it's still doing 40A, I'd pretty much guarantee it's fine. Those alternators are tough and it takes a lot to kill them. Discharge the batteries or put a 100A load on them and I'm pretty sure you will find the thing puts out plenty of power.
@Woodsman_7979 ай бұрын
Hello. I have some solar but I am looking for a way to charge the batteries on sunless days. My question is would it be better to build something like you did, or buy a generator and battery charger?
@trickydicky67889 ай бұрын
Hi, this is not a cheaper way to charge batteries it would be far cheaper to use the grid if you have grid power available that is. If you don't have grid power then this is a good way to charge batteries. To charge batteries with a generator and a battery charger you will find battery chargers don't have a very high output, so this is a good way to charge.
@neverdemagain60438 ай бұрын
If its a 48 volt system, Its better to use a generator and 48DC 100 Amp charger. The gear ratio this guy is running is wrong. Alternators only need 1200 to 1400 Rpms to max out Amperage.
@awerskto9 ай бұрын
Hi. Very nice movie. The alternator is probably a poor solution. You can use some BLDC motor. For example, an alternator from a hybrid car. Alternator from Hyundai Kona Phev. You will get much more power. You will need a 3 phase rectifier bridge and an MPPT regulator. You have to be careful as the voltages are much higher.
@paradiselost99468 ай бұрын
please explain how a variable field alternator, that comes with its own three phase rectifier, and can be controlled to deliver a constant voltage at a constant current form a constant RPM, is inferior to "some BLDC motor", with fixed magnetic fields that cant be altered and can only deliver a given voltage at a specific RPM, when loaded to just the right current, and will give different currents and voltages anytime the RPM is altered?
@Reset-hesitant9 ай бұрын
8 inch pulley for engine
@trickydicky67889 ай бұрын
Hi, not sure what you mean, an 8" pulley would put even more load on the engine.
@neverdemagain60438 ай бұрын
Thats his problem. You only need like 1500 rpm on the Alt. It can literally be 2 to 1 on pulley ratio. I'm already building one. Also, the pulleys should be wider for more grip. I'm going to do 3" on the engine and 6" on the alternator. Then run the engine at 3600 RPMs for my 1800 RPM at the Alternator. Turn that engine into a 30 hp engine.
@leewells26aug9 ай бұрын
Is this more cost effective and efficient than buying a pre made generator? 🤔
@trickydicky67889 ай бұрын
You would be hard pushed to find a 24volt generator anywhere.
@David-bs6bv9 ай бұрын
I don't have a victron but I'm about to get one, thanks for sharing. You definitely know your way around soldering.
@PavolFilek9 ай бұрын
WHy you use this uneffective fuse ? It is slow so do not protect FETs, It is small, so it is hot. So tell me why use this uneffective solution, if we have much quicker and effective protection of circuits like this ?
@trickydicky67889 ай бұрын
Hi, I just fitted the exact same make and rating of fuse that victron had used, I don't know enough about it to make modifications.
@TheInfoworks9 ай бұрын
Reference other youtubers work, don't take it as your own
@trickydicky67889 ай бұрын
Others may well of done something similar, but I have not seen anyone changing the fuse. I never said I was the only one to do this. Everything on KZbin has been done 10 times or more, do you stick your nose in and make this comment to all of Them? I surgest you get a life.
@TheInfoworks9 ай бұрын
Standing on the shoulders of giants, to be credible it is important to reference your inspiration. @@trickydicky6788
@Dirt-Diggler9 ай бұрын
The blue shmoo inside is for vibration, these are intended for mobile applications, stops the heavier components from fracturing the solder joints 👍
@trickydicky67889 ай бұрын
Thanks for your comment, I do appreciate it. I can understand why it's done now.
@mariodasilva87296 ай бұрын
Yep makes good reasoning!
@pgScorpio9 ай бұрын
The blue stuf is just potting epoxy, just to keep large components in place and has no thermal function at all.
@trickydicky67889 ай бұрын
Hi, this was set up to test the alternator to make sure it was working. The plan is at some point to modify the alternator to put out a higher voltage, to use for a different purpose.
@dantheman66989 ай бұрын
ahh i see. davidpoz made a few videos with engines and alternators and dc motors similar to what you're going to do.
@christophermarshall57659 ай бұрын
I already did this, but I used direct coupling to the engine. I have a 2 stroke set up I've not yet finished.
@mikeflight99 ай бұрын
Great setup there mate. That's what I am hoping to build. I have a horizontal shaft lawnmower engine, so the setup would be different to yours. I like the frame you made for it also. That has given me some ideas. I like all this sort of stuff. New follower. 👍👍👍
@trickydicky67889 ай бұрын
Thanks for your message, glad you found it useful.
@dantheman66989 ай бұрын
that works fine but you're putting too much load on it. its a 2.6kw alternator on a 2.6kw engine, its never going to work with a 3kw load tester. what are you even trying to power with it ? you give no info on what its for?
@trickydicky67889 ай бұрын
I sent you a reply, but it went to the top of the list.
@Hydrogenblonde9 ай бұрын
Hi, a suggestion, go to a motorcycle wreakers and get a motorcycle engine. You could get a two or even a four cylinder. Much better than those shonky Chinese pull start engines. Better still get a smashed bike. You will get the engine, exhaust, fuel system, ignition system, starter (beats pulling a rope) and a whole bunch of other bits that may be helpful. Front end and frame might be bent but your going to be pulling it apart not riding it. It will be much more powerful and reliable than a Chinese lawn mower. Sound more pleasant too.
@trickydicky67889 ай бұрын
You are right of course, but that would be expensive.
@Hydrogenblonde9 ай бұрын
@@trickydicky6788 maybe, I bought a engine from a wreckers, it was a twin cylinder 250cc Suzuki, 26 hp. It was a bare engine. I had to make up ignition, exhaust, fuel system and repair some minor damage. It cost $180. It depends on how much work you can do yourself.
@trickydicky67889 ай бұрын
Something also to remember a motorcycle engine needs to be cooled, under normal conditions a motorcycle would be moving through the air when the revs are up.
@Hydrogenblonde9 ай бұрын
@@trickydicky6788 yes you must have a fan.
@VictorPoulin9 ай бұрын
I guess if someone is in a pinch this would make for a great generator build in a couple hours or so. Love it.
@stubby79349 ай бұрын
This page shows a pinout for what looks like the same alternator: (YT doesn't like my link; search for "alt-b008-bosch" for a pinout) Once you have those wires hooked up, you can check the studs for output...I'd expect B1+ to be 12/14.4v and B2+ to be 24/28.8v That mower engine should be able to put out about 92A @ 14.4v by my math, if it was healthy, assuming it's gross HP rating is over-rated by 15% and the alternator is 60% efficient. (Yes, they're that inefficient). Is that a 100A battery load tester? Theoretically a bit too much for it, though you'd think the battery would make up for what's left. Cabling is rather thin for that kind of amperage, especially with that little alligator clip on the end. Unless it's the magic of video making it look small. Should be 4 gauge or lower. Might not make much difference for short bursts, but it might be making the alternator work extra hard by not having enough voltage on the field coil...but don't quote me on it; I always over-build. Let's blame the clapped out engine for now. ;-) a fresh 15hp should do the trick; my math puts it in at an engine rated at ~11.5HP, wheras if the alternator was,s say 90% efficient, you'd only need an engine rated at 7.5hp. Have a look at Hyundai Altermotors from a ~2013 sonata hybrid, especially if you're able to use higher voltages, should net you atleast 90%. Edit: Your MPPT appears to be good for up to 100v, so the hyundai altermotor should be a good choice. They run at 1350rpm @ 40vdc, so aim for twice that RPM or a bit higher...50A @ 96v should be easy for it, more amps is probably fine...they're liquid cooled, so no big deal if you up the amps a bit more to make 5000w+ output. Have fun!
@stubby79349 ай бұрын
Ahh, the joys of LiFePO4 and separate batteries to boot! For LiFePO4, I suggest you use an amp-hour meter...no way to judge the SOC by voltage, except when the battery is about to die or just topping off. I've only used hard wired ones, but you can probably get a wireless one these days. Just make sure it monitors both charge and discharge, as the cheap ones only do one or the other. Top charge both batteries to exactly the same voltage and forget about it...at least if they have identical internal resistance. Which they probably don't... They make balancers for 12v batteries in series, but I don't see ones meant for 24v batteries, at least in a quick search...if you want to automate the balancing, on the cheap, I suggest using a voltage-triggered relay circuit that will dump power to a dummy load (light bulb) when one battery or the other gets fully charged. That way it will trickle down the full battery and give the other one a chance to top up without you intervening. Search Ali-X or Flea-bay for "DC 9V 12V 24V Digital Voltage Control Relay Module Relay Switch Control Board Module LED Voltmeter Charging Discharge Monitor" - doesnt have to be that exact one, but that should do the trick. $5 each; you'll need one for each battery. Resitance/top balancing is what cheap BMS's do anyway, rather than active balancing. IF you see both dummy loads going at the same time, you know both batteries are full. If you have a generator running, you can use the same outputs from both modules to activate the kill switch on the engine, using two more relays with the output on them in series with one another and the kill switch ground. Yes, I find work-arounds for being too cheap to buy the fancy stuff! Hope that helps.
@8307c49 ай бұрын
Nice, finally a simple video, I'd like to see how your 15hp engine performs.
@trickydicky67889 ай бұрын
Hopefully I should have the 15hp engine video up to view in the next couple of weeks. The engine should be here in the next couple of days.
@EvelynnCoxon9 ай бұрын
Will a Bluesolar MPPT 100/30 come to part the same way,It does not have the 4 side screws. Cheers Bob.
@trickydicky67889 ай бұрын
Hi Bob, sorry I don't know the answer to that. You have two choices, send it away for repairs or try heating slowly with a heat gun and gently prising the cover off. You will probably need to heat to about 80° Centigrade. Good luck Richard Ps let me know how you did.
@EvelynnCoxon9 ай бұрын
thanks for reply. I am going to try and cut a slot around the fuse,very carefully. Bob. @@trickydicky6788
@trickydicky67889 ай бұрын
Do you know where the fuse is located on the blue solar.
@april7_10 ай бұрын
Sad it was out of it's 5 year warranty!
@panospapadimitriou349810 ай бұрын
if it was extremely expensive i could still try to send it to victron.. but they are fixable by many electronics fixers localy.. and you pay their loyality of course
@DannyCsaszar10 ай бұрын
Nice job! Ordering a fuse now. Mine is working with temp fix.