I have had mine installed on my CBR1000rr since 2016-17 so about 8 years. IT has worked well untill yesterday when I lost all signals. Turning the bike on/off did not work. Neither did waiting till the next day. I stripped down the cowls so I could see my wiring - no obvious issues. wiggled all the wires testing for function - no go. Then I checked the power lead witha meter and then left the bike power on for a few moments forgetting it. When I tested the unit now works and has continued to work all day. grrr - but it sounds simillar to your problem description.

Lay off the crack Buckshot 😂😂

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Mi motor runrunea y no acelera porque el gobernador se queda a fondo

O.k., short and sweet I'm trying to verify my internal governor is bad, before I waste the time pulling the motor. So with the throttle cable off/loose, my governor arm sags downwards/to the right (clockwise) which is supposedly full throttle, when the governor arm is moved by hand upwards/to the left (counterclockwise) which is supposedly slowest throttle. Aka, my arm is acting just like the first ~10 seconds of your video. I'm assuming when everything is under full working order, and considering cable tension is not putting pressure on anything (removed or set to low throttle), that the normal position the governor arm is supposed to be resting to the left? In both your video and my case, the governor arm wants to rest to the right, being full throttle. Sound like a bad governor? I've also made attempts to adjust the governor arm in relation to the governor spline coming out of the case....in all cases it wants to rest to the downward/right position. EDIT: Also, upon putting a ~1/4 socket on the governor spline coming out of the crankcase I can easily get it to go right or left, it doesn't feel like binding, the right to left is kinda a small increment, maybe like an inch full right to left/back and forth.

Mine is a brand new 27 hp and it wants to go full like it’s gonna blow

I’m working on a John Deere D130 with 22 HP Briggs with an over rev issue. The mower has less than 100 hours. I’m wondering if this is common with these engines? We’re going to try and reset the governor, but now I know what I’m in for if that doesn’t work. Thanks for the video.

Always put your throttle at full throttle position loosen the nut on the governor arm turn the inner shaft in the same direction as far as it will go and lock it out if it still runs away you have a damaged Governor gear

good luck over engineered pos

Nice diagnose, and detective work, good comments, your help is appreciated.. Keep up the fine work gentlemen. Cheers

I dont get it ..... what this video try to to tell you ? Nothing!

Make sure you get all the metal out of the crankcase. there is a small ring that I couldn't find in mine and I looked for two days and finally found it. You don't want it to get stuck in the gears.

So i just put a new crank seal and oil sump seal. After putting everything back together and started engine, it revs full throttle. So i tried adjusting governor arm. After loosening nut on the arm, i used a wrench to adjust the shaft. I immediately noticed the shaft has almost no play to adjustment. Is this an indicator the gear is shaved like in your video?

Boa tarde tenho um 35 hp mas ele. Perdeu forca ok pode ser

Good idea but sad that you have to do it

nice tutorial

This engine is a stupid design. Why would the factory setting be full throttle to be lowered and controlled by a governor instead of just manually controlled by the user?

Hi, Fitted new Governor, old one looked good. I still have the same problems just like the video. Hi, Had a bad misfire, replaced carburettor. Engine now revs very high. Took engine out replaced with a new governor, did not look damaged at all. Adjusted governor to carb as per instructions. Still revs high. Noticed the Governor arm does not seem to move througout the rev range. Any ideas? Thanks DID YOU FIND A SOLUTION??

I removed my carburetor to clean it and after putting it back together now my riding mower races in rpms

Yup! The fly-weights on the governor sling off into the crankcase, which makes the gov shaft limp, which runs the engine at a destructively high RPM. Also the fly-weights are in the crankcase causing a great deal of damage within seconds of run time. More than likely they have already damaged the engine beyond what would be economical to repair. No lieutenant, your men are already dead.

Briggs is a piece of sh*t. These engines have problems going 60 years back and these darn engineers at brigs dont know how to make a solid running engine. Had a honda for 15 years and ran flawlessly year after year. Recently switched over to a brand new 4k zero turn with Briggs on it and first winter, nothing but problems. Piece of Sh*t is what Briggs is.

I'm french. Thanks for that. Hace you got a movie to disassembly the motor. The steps to arrive at this video? thanks

I recently was given one of these older mowers for free but it’s missing the choke open/close linkage and for the life of me I’m trying to figure out which part number that is, do you by chance have any idea what it is so I have an idea if I’m looking at the right thing? I can clearly see the linkage im missing on yours at 0:02 along the left side going from the skinny bar to the choke above it.

Great fix!

Could you send me pics of the linkage and springs attached to carburetor, I can’t find a pic anywhere to show where and how they go

that little solenoid looking thing with a lever that the choke lever bushing touches. what is that called and what does it do? I've noticed some have that and some don't. my rod never seated in the bushing like yours does and kept popping out. I finally lost it. ordered a replacement but, I'm going to make a few with stiff wire

We have a Briggs and Stratton just like this and it's leaking behind the governor shaft but we don't have any throttle issues...any idea what we can do to stop this leak?

What are the specs on that engine. I am trying to reconnect the Chile after someone has messed with the linkages and I can’t find any info on where and how to connect

Do you have a link for the governor part ?

Before it was disassembled, did the governor adjustment still respond properly and stop when turned counterclockwise to the seat? Or did it just free spin

Hello, I have the same problem, I still do not disarm the engine, it has about 137 hours of use, it started with throttle failures.I couldn't regulate the throttle, it goes to full rpm when it starts. should it disassemble to replace the internal system? what is your advice. Best regards. from Argentina

You did good by shutting it down to prevent damage from pieces floating around the oil sump. I had the same on a mower I purchased with this issue. I replaced governor which prior owner gave a new Briggs and Stratton in package. Governor was $20, the Briggs and Stratton oil sump gasket was most expensive part to do the job, $35

The plastic tab on the arm that comes from throttle linkage to rod that goes to choke. Does the plastic connector touch the small circular thermostat type device there at the left? That's looking at front of engine when you are showing governor arm

I had the same issue. What's the best way to clean all the metal shavings out?

I really dont wanna pull my 22HP apart.. but im having this same problem.. so i guess its time to pull the motor and check it out... what all did you end up replacing?

It’s been down over two months with no updates!

Thank you for posting. Those of us with vtwin governor problems like to see the parts involved.

Turn the gov crank in opposite dir and re-tighten. Make sure carb throttle full open when adjusting. BTW, you can verify which way to turn crank by watching it when you open the throttle. Adjust it in same dir. Most of time, clockwise. But you have to verify. Turning in wrong dir won't hurt anything but will result in engine running full throttle.

Boring video!

Complete junk. Those twins blow those governors if you look at them wrong. Do yourself a favor when you replace it, put the washer under it, part #799772. They used to put them in and got cheap and run them without them. You have steel against aluminum equals blow. I've done quite a few of these and the ones with the washers never come back.

I have a 10kw standby B N S generator with over run light flashing any help

I am having the same issue EXCEPT my governor is fine... in fact I installed a new one just in case but nope... still runs full blast unless I hold the arm up by hand or with an extra spring.

My 27hp B&S did the exact same thing with only 200 hours on it. im awaiting parts from the states did you get around to fixing this?

plenty of good governor adjustment vids on here

Did you figure anything out on this? I am having issues with this exact same model.