I guess we kind of assumed that people looking for wiring mods for guitar would already know how to solder. If you don't know how to solder, I would recommend looking up tutorials on soldering before looking up guitar modding tutorials. Doing it other way around is like looking up "how to do a wheelie" without knowing how to ride a bike first. Commenting like that would be like getting mad at the wheelie instructor for not including a tutorial on how to ride a bike in their wheelie instructional video. It just doesn't make much sense. All the best!

Proper practice is to use 2-conductor shielded cable with TRS plugs. In practice, it depends what you're building the cable for... If all you have is TRS plugs and mono raw cable, you can make mono instrument cables (for guitar, for instance). Just be sure to solder the shield to both the ring lug and the sleeve, and mark the cable clearly as a mono cable to avoid confusion. It isn't proper, but it works in a pinch and will function exactly like a standard mono instrument cable.

@@NextGenGuitars Sorry I am being dense, but I have several speaker cables, some with TS 1/4 " to TS 1/4 ", some Banana to TS 1/4", Some Banana to SpeakON, some SpeakOn to SpeakON, each with separate + / - wires from the amp to the speaker. i have never seen a TRS 1/4" speaker cable. Am I missing something?

@ If you mean for sending an amp powered signal to an unpowered speaker, no. I've never seen TRS speaker cable. Amplifiers output mono signals. Stereo amps send two mono signals (one for each channel), so I can't imagine a situation where a TRS speaker cable would be needed.

Sorry, I totally misread your original question... You would only use standard 1/4" TS speaker cables with this.

@@NextGenGuitars So in your design, I would just use a standard TS 1/4" Plug Speaker Cable, either 1 from a single amp for Mono (both speakers), or 2 - one from each amp to power each individual speaker?

Not at all the same. The output power of the headphone amplifier (typically measured in mW) is a tiny fraction of the full amp's output power (7W). If you want more volume, you'd need to go from the headphone/line out into another amplifier that has a line-level input (like a PA speaker or studio monitor). The point of the mod in this video is that you can use it with any passive guitar cabinet. No external amp needed.

@@NextGenGuitars I can go out of my kantana mini into powered monitors..

@ Exactly.

Nope. Frankly, you'd be better off doing it with something switchable, outside of the cable. In the guitar, or in an effects box, for instance. Locking a specific value into a cable would mean you'd need a bunch of different cables with different values for each purpose. Seems smarter to just have it in a switch that you can adjust as needed.

There might be an impedance mismatch, but as long as the active speaker's input is line level, it will work.

Cut 1/8" channels (typical blade kerf width) about 1/8" deep. Fold the tolex into the channel. The amp cord is then pressure fit into the channel. No glue required.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/oXKmlo17aq2MqZY

@@NextGenGuitars cool thanks !!

The stock speaker is 4-ohm, so anything 4-ohm and above with at least 10W of power handling will be fine. Choice of what speaker you use would be personal preference. Something warmer and not too bright would be ideal.

Generally, tip=positive and sleeve=negative. But, just in case, you should go with however it was wired before in case it was different for some reason (old amps have some weird stuff going sometimes). Some even have isolated jacks and a third/separate wire to ground the speaker basket. It's best to copy however it was all done originally.

I think they originally launched in 2018.

@@NextGenGuitars Heck yeah. Excellent comparison. Beautiful gonzo shots :)

The amp outputs 7 watts at 4 ohms (solid state amp). So, any speaker/cab that is 4-ohm or more with a high enough wattage rating will work fine.

That can only happen with a defective switch, the wrong switch type, or a mistake in the wiring. Test your connections and the switch with a multimeter.

No. This should have absolutely no impact on battery life.

More specifically a Reverse P pickup for the neck and possibly middle position too so there's less muddiness. Might have to run the bridge as a regular P pickup for more power/punch.

The audio jack sends audio only. It requires a powered speaker. This mod allows you go use the amp's internal power amp to power a separate/larger speaker (like a traditional guitar cab).

Indeed. For its small size and cheap speaker/components, it actually sounds surprisingly good for what it is.

I'm a big fan of both Neutrik and Switchcraft. The ones used in this video are the #280. Glad you liked the video!

🤣

Self-deprecating sense of humour.

To be clear, what you are hearing as a "pop" is actually just the signal being cut harshly (squarely). If you analyze the waveform, it isn't an unwanted/unexpected spike. That is just what it sounds like when a signal is cut so drastically/instantaneously. It is absolutely unavoidable when using a killswitch. It will only be audible when the signal gain is too low, leaving your sound in "clean" territory. Imagine a waveform, the wave moving up and down represents the speaker moving back and forth. Instantly cutting the signal like that means the speaker has to return to its neutral point nearly instantly. That is what makes the "popping" sound. You can hear it in the examples throughout the video. 2:07 = Very "poppy" (clean guitar sound). 2:16 = The "pop" is only audible as the signal decays and cleans up. At the end of the video, same thing. Only when the note is decaying and the signal is getting too low for the overdrive clipping does it become obvious. That's why they are really only used with higher gain overdriven sounds. Some people wire in a 2.2M resistor to help reduce the popping, but it won't eliminate it. There is a technique to using the switch. Lots of gain and lots of signal means no popping. You can't just let notes ring out while using the switch. You need to make sure there is enough signal. Hope that helps!

@@NextGenGuitars Alright, thank you for taking the time to write that one out for me. I wonder if there's a better way to do it. 🤔 I have a square wave tremolo that's really choppy but doesn't cause speaker pop, I wonder if there's a way to emulate that with a circuit in that guitar.

The killswitch temporarily shorts the hot signal to ground when pressed. No, you do not want it in series with your signal. You want to ground it when pressed.

Try the artist it’s worth it❤

I think it was the Eminence Governor.

As long as your head can handle 4-ohm or 8-ohm, and is switched correctly depending on how you're using it, it's all good. 👍

@@NextGenGuitars got it. thank you. one last question. do i have to make it stereo for this splitting function to work? i don't care for stereo i just wanted to have a 2/12 cab with the ability to have it working two 1/12. would it work the same way?

@@halfend8199 If you have the ability to isolate each speaker separately, that is by definition turning it into a stereo cab. So, I'm not really sure I understand your question.

@@NextGenGuitars oh... i think my question is that i will never plug in a stereo jack, just two monos

@@halfend8199 No guitar amp outputs to a stereo/TRS speaker cable. The cables should always be mono/TS, and the jacks/wiring in this video example require only mono/TS plugs to be used for it to work properly. Any other type of plug would cause the system to route the signal incorrectly. So, yes, mono cables only.

There are many other options out there in other price ranges. We don't stock any, so I can't point you to any in particular, but they are out there.

No. 2x 8-ohm speakers makes 16 ohms in series, or 4 ohms parallel. There is no way to use 2x 8-ohm speakers, and end up with 8-ohms (unless you just didn't use both speakers together at all, in which case you'd just have one jack for each speaker, and they wouldn't be connected at all). We no longer sell the 14B jack, and would recommend the Cliff jacks as an alternative for complex wiring schemes.

@@NextGenGuitars So I should be able to wire the two 8ohm speakers in series for mono at 16 ohms and still have 8 ohms stereo.

It's a tiny analog practice amp. Set expectations accordingly. 👍

That could be related to the battery power. Did you connect the lugs to tip and sleeve, or tip and ground, or something else?

@@NextGenGuitars ground…Is there much difference in putting the black killswitch wire on the ground or attached to the sleeve?

@@pitonestraordinario The sleeve terminal of the jack is the ground. I asked how you wired it because if you are inadvertently disconnecting the battery power each time you hit the switch, that would cause an extremely loud pop every time. Some people connect the wrong leads (avoid the "ring", and/or anything connected to the battery).

Lol. What? Nothing is faked in this video. I still have the modded Katana amp at home. Still works. 🤷‍♂️

You just do the exact same thing as in the video, but with pairs of 8-ohm speakers in series instead of single 16-ohm speakers. Same result... Either jack used individually would be all 4 speakers, for an 8-ohm load. Both jacks used at the same time would separate the two jacks, each having their own 16-ohm load.

@@NextGenGuitars So I'd put two speakers in series on each jack but have each pair ran in parrallel?

@@Legendaryaxxis You would copy the wiring diagram in this video exactly. The only difference is that instead of 2x 16-ohm speakers, you would have 2x series pairs of 8-ohm speakers. The top speaker in the diagram would be replaced by a pair of 8-ohm speakers wired in series. The bottom speaker in the diagram would be replaced by another pair of 8-ohm speakers wired in series. You end up with two 16-ohm loads, thus the same results as the video.

@@NextGenGuitars Thanks for the help, much appreciated.

That's always a battle of compromises... A larger gauge main conductor with no shielding allows for the greatest fidelity, at the expense of a high noise floor and more interference from the lack of shielding. The more shielding you add to reduce the noise floor and decrease interference, the thicker/heavier and more cumbersome the cable becomes, and the greater the capacitance of the cable. Braided shielding is stronger and more durable, but provides a little less shielding (for the same amount of wire used) and increases capacitance more. Spiral shielding improves on those weaknesses, but sacrifices a bit of durability. Increased capacitance leads to greater high frequency loss over long cable lengths. For these reasons (among many others, this is just a short discussion), there is no "perfect" cable. There is just the "right" cable for your needs. Most guitar cable is around 40-50pF/foot with around 90-95% shielding, which is great for most guitar players. If you've got long cable runs and a complex pedalboard, you may want lower capacitance cable to retain more high end across the total cable length. You could also just use a buffer, but that opens up another long discussion. Suffice to say, it's complicated. lol Lot's of choices, and no "right" answers. The fact is, most industry guitar cable is just fine. The difference that separates them is the quality of the connectors and solder joints.

That's why it's always best to find local sources. Or, bundle larger orders to get the best value out of the shipping costs. If shipping costs $15, that's because it costs $15. That's not "theft". Get mad at shipping carriers/couriers if you think it's too expensive. Don't throw around crude/inaccurate accusations of "theft". Point your disappointment in the right direction. All the best! 👍

It's all SMD circuit board stuff. It could be modded, but certainly not easily.