The amp outputs to two speakers in a stereo pair, so if you just do 1 speaker, the zone on the amp still will be sending it's input to both speakers in that pair. So best to keep each area you want with it's own music playing having 2 speakers. Since you want 10 zones, it's probably most economical to get a matrix switch so you don't need to manage and buy 10 streamers. The matrix switch will be like the lync app I show.

It finally died, I wasnt driving the car often so the battery kept draining really low, and then I would need to charge it. So a bit over 3 years with it being abused.

Im looking to buy the LFX36L3-BS12 version.

I'm in NC, keep the car in the garage. The battery is not supposed to be charged when it's freezing, but since I keep the car in the garage it never gets freezing. The engine will keep the battery warm. If you park it outside and live in a freezing climate the battery probably won't live long

Set and forget it to max on the amplifier. Volume is controlled by the streamer. The Lync also provides a volume adjuster, but I don't use it and have it setup as passthrough.

9.6:1 but it was not struggling. I would not worry at all. Maybe if you have an old school non gear reduction starter it will have an impact.

Why would you? Just control the zones with the lync app, airplay to your streamer

Aiming for full smart home integration through a common platform. @@RindosRides

You would need an AVR with pre-outs. From there you would hook each pre-out from the AVR to an input of the lync. The center is a little interesting as it is only 1 wire. You then would use the lync app to assign those amp outputs to the speaker you want them to play out of, just as if they were a normal source. In this setup the AVR input would need to be controlled from its own AVR app or remote.

You can also buy the genuine tial valve and diaphragm and use it with the knockoff body.

@@RindosRides Not a bad idea either ! Looked into a little more and I reckon they just use standard car poppet valves - which explains why they use those 3 grub screws to fix the end to the diaphragm and don't use a longer finned spacer to kerp the heat away. Probably won't do any of this, mind - but it's something to think about !

Yeah direct in is what you will want. For the one in error you may get lucky by clicking those dip switches back and forth for those channels. Otherwise you'll just have to use the other channels that are not in error state

@@RindosRides Thank you!

Im using a Speedhut speedo and tach.

@@RindosRides the gps version?

Yes, but only because my ECM wouldn't output a speedometer signal. Its pretty specific to my exact model, 07 truck with 6l80e. You can tell by checking in HPtuners if you see a speedometer reading after doing all the appropriate config.

Since the wires are in different rooms, you would need two amplifiers. You could use any 2 cheap AVRs with airplay built it, but you could only pair to one at a time that way. You could add two cheap streamers and pair them together to play on both. That will probably be the cheapest option. You could also look for 2 cheap AVRs that have multiroom support built in, like Heos. With that you wouldn't need the streamers, but the Heos AVRs are a bit harder to find cheap.

@@RindosRides thanks man, any recommendations for cheap but decent AVRs with airplay? And what streamers would you recommend to go with them? Thanks!

Still working well

Since you want atmos in the mix, you can't do Sonos. It only has atmos in the soundbar. Your best bet is running an hdmi cable from your tv to your closet where all your wiring will terminate. You'll want a controller, an avr with preouts, and a 12 channel amp. You'll hook the avr to your TV with the hdmi cable, and probably use eARC to stream the audio from your tv over that hdmi. Then hook the preouts of your AVR to the inputs in the controller, and wire all your speakers to your 12 channel amp. That way you can have the avr outputs get mapped to any speaker. The avr will also support some kind of streaming services and multizone outputs so you probably can get around needing separate streamers.

I am in the same boat- what system did you end up going with?

I used the cxracing ones, but I don't recommend cxracing. The headers had a pinhole leak in the collector and cxracing wouldnt fix them. Now that I have a turbo I changed all that. Check my turbo videos for details.

@@RindosRides appreciate it, definitely keep that in mind cause that kit isn’t the cheapest lol

The lync app only shows 12 zones that the HTD 12 outputs

@@RindosRides How do you like your HTD system? I am looking to purchase one also. Would love some feeback

@@kunalkishan9411 Haven't had any problems with it. The only negative thing I can say is the lync controller puts out some decent heat when unused. I think it's because it has built in amps to do volume control, and for some reason they stay on even when I use the passthrough mode. Maybe they fixed that in the newer model though. Functionally doesn't affect anything, just some wasted power.

@@RindosRides thank you for the feedback! did you end up going with their speakers also? Happy with the performance?

@@kunalkishan9411 My main speakers are Focal floor standing ones, then my in ceiling are Klipsch cdt-5800. I like them a lot

There is only a few wires used. The power signal wires for key on and start, and temperature sensor (use stock sensor and tap its body to thread into the engine). There was factory wiring for an electric fuel pump behind the passenger seat. All the other wires will be off the ECM for things like the OBD2 port, tach, check engine light, fuel pump relays, fan relays.

I have swapped in cheap springs advertised to fit Tial, so yes the real springs will fit the knockoffs of the same style.

2Fiddy is super durable. I had some serious crashes with the 2fiddy with 0 damage. I haven't crashed the shocker yet so can't comment, but it definitely feels less durable than the 2fiddy.

@@RindosRides I've already replaced one 2fiddy arm. I wish they sold the arm braces that they initially designed for. You can see the holes on the corner of each arm where they had considered adding braces for folks who want extra support.

@@nikfpv3456 could you imagine buying a frame then being a shitty tuner and blaming it on the frame 😂

Ebay is pretty bad with its search function. But if you search elan amplifier you will see quite a few still for cheap. Mostly 6 channel amps.

@@RindosRides I checked local Craigslist every once and a while for the past 2 months and scored an htd dma-1275 and mc-66 for $600

@@ST3ADYxKICKS Very nice, the ICEpower modules in that amp are as good as it gets!

Just being honest. Unlike other reviewers I had to spend the money to buy this, which is the most expensive frame in its class, and spend the time building it. All that and its flys worse than my cheaper previous frame. You spend more you expect more right?

@@RindosRides Agreed! Just making a statement and not being malicious . Re: JB he did not say it flew bad . His preference was for the 4” over the 5”. I value all opinions. Negative included but you were harsh!

I have Micro Apex 5 and have same plot on pitch. Big red spike around 200hz but I am not bothered. I have gyro lowpass filters off. RPM and dynamic notch filters take care of it. RPM 3 harmonics at 155hz and 1 DN at 250Q 155-450hz range. And I have straight lines on all axises after filtering. Running D at 47 and D filter at 1.6. And D at 47 is limited by spike at around 68hz(antenna possibly) and not by spike at 200hz. I could go higher if I have it clean at 68hz. Quad flies fantastic even with that bad base noise profile. I would not bother in your case if you are able to filter it out and you should be able to do it easy with RPM filters. Raw 200hz noise does nothing to flight performance will not cause jello or oscillations in flight. What it does in case you are not able to filter it out is making D term react on it and cause hot motors and grinding sounds...I agree that you can have flight performance issues in case you are not able to filter it out completely and hence cant push PIDs higher. But in my experience this is not problem for RPM filtering. I guess we should not expect super nice plots from 55g frames. And I bet that rear brace would help a lot to stiffen rear arms (I think rear arms is where is your issue)

@@lackoluki On this particular frame its the front arms that are wiggly, rear arms get more bracing where they attach to the frame. It flies alright, but thats it. It has on throttle shakes that can't be tuned out without making the quad lazy, and has poor prop wash performance. Got a 2fiddy now and wow that thing is nice.

Yes, they would act like any other input. The main downside being that these are also devices with video output. So you would need to also have whole house video (pricey) or have a short enough distance to run a cable from your audio gear to your PC or gaming console. The easier thing to do is add a bluetooth receiver to your whole house audio and pair that with your pc or console. I personally have my TV set to use bluetooth for audio out so that whatever device I plug into my TV has its audio sent to my whole house system. However, some TVs have a really bad bluetooth output, the Samsung q80t I had would send the left and right audio channels only of a surround sound signal, instead of converting the audio to stereo before sending it out. The LG C1 I use now has no issue.

I use a Monoprice 3.5mm to RCA cable from the audiocast to the amp

I don't have much track time to give a professional answer, but the steering weight feels the same as when it had the stock l24. That said I would always recommend an aluminum block and wish I had one.

@@RindosRides thanks for the reply I want to get an aluminum block but if I can’t get one for a decent price I’ll feel a lot better now about getting an iron block

I didn't. I wanted to rig up a real test bench where I compare the digital signal of the input to that of the output (wonder why no audio "reviewers" do this already) but didn't buy the stuff to do that. For a short summary, I couldn't hear a difference. I have been using the muzo (its original usb power supply went bad but after using a spare from a phone its been great)

The receiver is if you need surround sound. The lync system just matrixes 2 channel inputs and outputs together.

@@RindosRides sorry i dont understand that totally. im going to run this set up threw my whole house. what does the receiver do ?

@@thomasmoore1208 The lync has a controller that lets you plug in stereo inputs and with their app set them to any stereo output. It also lets you control volume in the lync app. The lync system also comes with a separate power amplifier which hooks to your speakers and gives them power. Since the system is only has these analog inputs and outputs, you cannot do anything digital (surround sound) with them. You need a separate surround sound processor to decode the digital and output an analog signal. A receiver is typically the cheapest and easiest digital decoder