Absolutely! The Bona DCS 50 has more than enough power, volume, and suction to work great with edger work!

@BonaProfessional with a edger plugged into the dcs 50 for on off function?

@@truthforu1 Probably not because the vac and edger together will pull too many amps and trip the breaker at the wall. Even if both run for awhile, with an edger plugged into the DCS 50 accessory outlet, they'll both run hot (not good for either) and will eventually trip the breaker (or burn up cords, plugs, or one/both of the machines). It's always the total amp draw that you've got to consider - along with the available power at the wall outlet, which will be either a 15 or 20amp circuit.

@BonaProfessional that's what I had thought but did not know enough about the system , looking to upgrade and a couple of the 50s seem like the way we will go, thank you for responding

It's being used to simulate the side wall starting point for a job, since we don't have that long of a wall nor kitchen cabinets, etc. in the Studio.Sometimes ya gotta fake it a bit but give it your best shot.

Absolutely. Bona Traffic HD Anti-Slip has the same slip coefficient of friction required for ADA wheelchair ramps and walkways, etc. The other things that can help your dog get a better grip on your floors are keeping the hair/fur between their pads trimmed back (I have an 85lb Bernedoodle that tends to peel out when the hair gets too long between his pads, so he's trying to grip through the slippery hair instead of his pads), as well as their nails. When their nails are too long, they can feel that and try to get a better grip through their nails instead of going a bit slower and getting the grip with their pads. Hope that all helps!

If for some reason you had to wait that long before applying the next coat, then hit it quickly with a Bona Conditioning Pad (320grit) to lightly abrade; vacuum and wet tack until clean, then apply your next coat.

Good question. It's actually the "splinter" technique, where a hardwood craftsman will cut some 5-7degree splinters on a tablesaw and then wedge/glue those down into the floor instead of jamming a bunch of filler down in the large gap. The definition of "large" is in the eye of the professional, but typically anything wider than 1/8" would look better with splinters than with solid color filler. Hope that helps to answer your question.

If that happens, as with any sander or power tool, we'd suggest you move the power cord out of the path of the sander......

@@BonaProfessional like you did in the video?

@@freddyking7388 You learn how to work with it. Sometimes you can just nudge it with the Power Drive and sometimes you need to physically move it out of the way. You definitely don't want to run over it or have it get sucked under the sander. Bad things can happen if 220v gets exposed with hot wires!

Agreed!

There's always a "what did he say" atmosphere with Wayne's Cal-Southern linguistics.......

@BonaProfessional 🤣🤣🤣

If the plank is engineered then the double glue-down method is an approved installation method for plank flooring over cork underlayment. If it's solid, then the cork must be embedded under a floated plywood subfloor so that the fasteners do not penetrate into the cork (is it doesn't have sufficient holding power for the fasteners to do their job). Hope that answers your question! Cheers!

@@BonaProfessional thank you for your reply! Here is a few more questions I want to figure out: 1. How is cork's heat transmit performance? I'm told either is good or bad for underfloor heating. 2. My plank is engineered. But I'm told by my local professionals that cork underlayment will be tear apart if I apply glue over it. So they prefer a cement-based substrate. Any proof to persuade them?

@@yihu3497 1. Cork is a very good insulator, so it wouldn't be recommended to install it between your radiant heat system and the flooring itself. 2. Since cork is flexible, putting an inflexible adhesive (moisture-cured urethane) below or above probably wouldn't be advisable. However, all the Bona Adhesives are silane-based and flexible, with unmatched holding power, and would be excellent choices for this type of installation. The manufacturer of your radiant heat system should have various installation suggestions, depending on the overall situation, so we'd suggest you look at those for further discussions with your local professional. Best of luck for a successful project!

@ thank you for your help. One more question, any other underlayment material that is suitable both for underfloor heating and glue flooring？

@@yihu3497 No, radiant heat is going to be embedded in concrete or a plywood subfloor system 99% of the time; both of which are suitable for a glue-down application as well.

Bona Red Out can be used to help minimize the red/pink hues in most species. A well know Bona Certified Craftsman in the Washington D.C. area used Red Out on a very large Brazilian Cherry floor at one of the foreign embassies and it came out a beautiful rich chocolate brown without the typical red of BC coming through. Bona only tested on red oak for this product, so please perform your own tests on other species to confirm desired results. Cheers!

It might affect the application rate a bit but not that much. Sanding to 120 grit will reduce the amount of grain raise that you have to deal with after application, which is why we recommend sanding it to that level. Hope that helps!

It's best not to apply Bona Red Out with a sprayer as you don't want to risk getting fine spray droplets airborne due to the danger of eye and skin contact or inhalation through mouth/nose; plus, the increased risk of overspray getting onto things you don't want these products to react with - other wood, metal, etc. Hope that helps in your decision.

1. Best tool to apply to a tabletop would be a smaller 1/4" or 3/8" microfiber roller, though you'll have to brush the bullnose and watch for drips forming on the underside. Even though we don't test on furniture applications, it would probably be best to complete the bottom side first - roller then brush the sides to prevent or smooth out product that has gone over the edge that might form hardened drips (though you could sand those off when you flip the piece over to finish the top). 2. Dry time for DriFast Stain Jacobean is 2 hrs, but if you're working in a cold environment it might be best to give it overnight before applying the finish. 3. Colder/humid environments will extend the dry and cure times, but if you let each coat (stain and or finish) an overnight dry, that should be sufficient in avoiding any slow dry/cure time issues. 4. If you change gloss levels of the same product, let the previous coat dry overnight and lightly abrade it with a Bona Conditioning Pad (Scotchbrite pad), vacuum and tack with a microfiber cloth until clean before coating with the other sheen choice. Good questions and hope that all helps to successfully complete your project! Cheers!

Comment puis-je obtenir contact avec un responsable bona

Voici la page de localisation du gestionnaire de territoire Bona sur Bona.com www.bona.com/en-us/professional/training/

Wow what? Anything else we can clarify in terms of the buffer operation?

Nous sommes toujours ouverts aux suggestions, alors n'hésitez pas à indiquer vos conseils ici. Merci beaucoup !

There are several options to create the cerusing effect using Bona products. 1. Bona Craft Oil 2K Frost can be skim applied (with a squeegee) over a base coat color of Craft Oil to leave the white pigments in the grain (dilute Frost 50/50 with Natural to lessen the whitish effect on the hard grain). 2) You can create a "glaze" of any color by adding Bona SuperSport Paint to Bona ClearSeal or Bona IntenseSeal. 3) You might be able to achieve the same effect by applying Bona NordicSeal. 4) Combine several of these options to create your own unique effect. Any of the above require trial-and-error application testing to confirm your desired results. Hope that helps! Cheers!

Much appreciated!

Seen too much what, Dave?

@@BonaProfessional The videos are on KZbin ( type : Julian & Sandy 😝 ) ... Bona Professional , would have got a good laugh on ( Round the Horne ) ...... DAVE™🛑

@@davidfalconer8913 Aha, now we got it! Wow, they have a whole slew of Bona related videos! Thanks for the tip! Cheers!

Minwax Stain is produced for furniture and not recommended by Bona and many other professional flooring craftsmen (though a lot of oldtimers do use it). A large number of failures have been historically noted with most combinations of sealers and finishes over the top of this product. We'd always recommend that you stick to a single manufacturer's product system to ensure compatibility and the best degree of adhesion. Hope that helps answer your question and gets you the best results on your project. Cheers!

You could apply either Bona DriFast Stain or Bona Chroma over the top of purple heart wood if you want to add a stain color, depending on what final color and look you're trying to achieve. A simpler system might be to apply a couple coats of Bona IntenseSeal over the purple heart (to help "pop" the naturally beautiful coloring of that species) and then protect that with a couple coats of Bona Traffic HD finish. Hope that helps!

Good suggestion! We'll keep that in mind for future videos!

Well, none right in your area but there's a good variety at regional training centers not far away - New Jersey in March, Nashville in June, Chicago in July, and Charlotte in September. Hope you can make one of those and then change your handle to @traninghard23! Here's the full calendar of planned Bona Schools for 2025: bona.arlo.co/w/upcoming/

These videos are so helpful, btw.

Thanks Scott - Glad to hear that our videos are helpful for you. The wood species that we're working on here is 5" #1 common white oak planks. Cheers!

The same roller application technique that we use for waterborne finishes can be used for oil-modified poly. The key with OMU is to not work it too much as this can leave bubbles in the finish because of the thicker nature of these types of products. Hope that helps!

He told us he used to be called "Hunky Highlander" in his heyday, but that has yet to be confirmed via any family or friends from that epoch!?!

@BonaProfessional that is the most believable thing I heard all day. Thanks for relaying the message!

It's not necessarily the contraction and expansion that prevents filler from staying in the seams and gouges, etc, on a 100 year old floor; but rather the build-up of waxes, polishes, sealers, finishes, dirt, etc. that has accumulated in these areas for x-number of years - that you can't clean out and to which the filler can't stick. You might get it pressed down in the open areas just fine and it seems like it will be able to do it's job, but normal living movement in and across the floor can make the filler come out in chunks and or powder up over time. That's why most professionals will "splinter" larger cracks in floors like this and explain to the floor owner that it's better to go with uniform, even, open cracks than to have chunky missing filler seams throughout. Hope that helps explain the long-term situation a bit better. Cheers!

Thanks for the additional suggestions!

We'll add those to the SWAG line-up as soon as we can get Wayne and Rob to complete the look with sport boxer briefs and jeans that only come cover half your bum. Sorry! I know you won't be able to get that picture out of your mind 'til at least 2026!?!? ;-)

@@BonaProfessional you win-i dont want a hat that bad lol!

@BonaProfessional even a bald man on a winters day doesn't need a hat that bad🤣🤣 happy new year!

Well, what's holding you back?!? It's really self-gratifying and rewarding to see that design unfold before your eyes on a beautiful maple canvas! Cheers!

We've been running it with the Bona Power Drive, all our Festool gear, and a Shaper Origin portable cnc machine. You won't regret buying one as the DCS 50 is powerful and flexible, allowing you to use it for a wide range of operations. Cheers!

Any of the Bona Traffic family of finishes can be used on engineered floors. Our best selling is still Bona Traffic HD in Commercial Satin, so the desired gloss level might be your biggest choice to consider. Hope that helps!

Thanks for the question. We'd suggest checking with the manufacturer of the epoxy as to what type of sealer/primer they require for use underneath their topcoat product. We haven't tested the compatibility with any epoxy coatings going over the top of Bona RollGuard, but would think that Bona R540 would be a better fit, if anything, as it's more of an epoxy-type product itself; though you'd most likely have to abrade and or cast sand into the R540 to ensure good adhesion of the epoxy over the top. Hope that helps a bit.

Thanks for the suggestions! We're always trying to make our application processes more efficient and effective, so we'll make sure that product management sees your comments. Cheers!

The best system for a top nail floor is actually a hybrid oil-modified and waterborne system. Because a pure waterborne system will rust and streak any exposed nailheads, it's best to seal the floor with a coat of Bona Woodline Poly and then follow that up with a couple coats of Bona waterborne finish (so it won't yellow so badly as it ages). Thanks for the question and hope that helps! Cheers!

It's only a 3-minute video and the beauty is always in your details and planning! What's your pre-game plan?

Good question! While the FlexiSand Buffer would not be very effective at fully sanding a floor, our Bona Power Drive is geared up for exactly that type of application. Most of the time, professionals will still use a belt sander for the first cut, but then move almost strictly to the Power Drive operation for an agressive cut that won't leave swirl, drum, or edger marks in the floor. It's a game-changer! See more here: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZpKTgqqPqtJnrKsfeature=shared

Howdy Mate! Please touch base with our team from Bona Australia and they'll be happy to help you out! Cheers! www.bona.com.au/

Good question! Typically we'll fill the floor right before our final cut, which for us is 120 grit. So, that means we're filling the floor after cutting with 80 or 100 grit, then filling, then cutting it off with 120 grit. Hope that helps!

Yes, it's the same process for the nave and bearing assemblies on the Bona Multidisc, as well as the Bona Power Drive. Thanks for the question!

Yes, the floor definitely needs to be sanded before applying filler. I saw that you found our Pacific Filler video, so hopefully you're clear now on the process - but please post another question if we can help you further. Thanks!

The wirebrush kit is used to purposefully dish out the soft grain of the wood, giving you more texture to the floor. Across species it depends on the relative hardness difference between the hard and the soft grain structures as to the effectiveness (or time needed) of the wirebrush process. Hope that helps!

We definitely appreciate all the Brazilian craftsman in the hardwood flooring trade! Saúde!

@@BonaProfessional We work a lot with Bona here, however on multi-sports courts we work with other brands. Do you have specific products for wooden courts?

Thank you Silveira Barros

@@silveirabarros2895 Where are you located?

@@BonaProfessional São Paulo (Brasil)

Yep, lots of different tools to take care of situations like this. What's your process?

A "recoat" adds another layer of protective finish, much more durable than a "polish", which would probably make the floor slippery. Just wanted to clarify for you. Thanks!

Both Bona Traffic HD Anti-Slip and Bona Traffic RAW have a slip coefficient of ≥ 0.8 (which qualifies for ADA areas - wheel chair ramps, stairs, etc). Regular finishes typically have a coefficient of ≥ 0.5, like regular Traffic HD, Mega, Domo, etc. Thanks for the question!

Thanks for the support! Completely agree!

You can find our India distributor information here: www.bona.com/en-in/distributor/ Hope that helps!

Hi @MandeepSingh-yy8zc - Staining small areas is much easier than handling the main field and edges of a floor. Simply use a folded terrycloth rag or paint brush to apply the stain to the smaller areas - let it soak in for a minute, then wipe off the excess with a clean terrycloth rag. Handrails, treads, risers, etc. can all be handled the same way. Hope that helps.

@@BonaProfessional been doing this for almost a yr now Thankss Anyway 😊

Any type of artificial flooring, as opposed to solid hardwood, may have some harmful elements to it. It's kind of like processed food versus whole, raw, natural food. Do your research.