I love the way you take us thru the process even though your not sure if it’s right or wrong.

I did this to a house a few years ago where it was leaking down the wall and puddling on the floor. Cut a slot a few inches from the wall in a line, and one cut 90 degrees from it to the drain. Works well for 6 years now. A different home I cut all the way around the perimeter and it worked well too. I was going to cut a trough around and put in a drainage tile but this worked good. Very dusty job though.

why not install above ground temp channels to your drain, instead of damaging the concrete?

The problem with this approach is that it increases the likelihood of your slab destabilizing and causing problems for the walls in the long run as those pieces will fracture over time and increase the "island" affect where chunks of your slab begin to permit movement and since the slab acts as a stabilizer for the walls, it can lead to wall tilt and or bowing (it might take awhile for it to happen, but keep an eye on it because you'll want to eventually revisit this to fix that). Don't get comfortable with what you did in this and consider instead returning to install something similar to this internal drain system approach: kzbin.info/www/bejne/f4fKnpaOobSBpqM In summary, cut out a trench around the perimeter of your basement about 1' wide. Dig down until you begin to see water. Pour a bed of pea gravel in this trench, put some kind of drainage pipe in which you connect to a sump pump basin, cover the pipe in more pea gravel, then cover that and the weep holes with drainage board but cover that up with vapor barrier before resealing the entire trench back up with concrete. If hiring someone to do this, you'll probably spend the most with labor. I've heard about people finding contractors to do it for less than $1k, but they're hard to find.

Cool

awesome... i am thinking of making the same from my bedroom to the bathroom drain so i don't have to wake up at the middle of the night and walk to the bathroom... i will go check if my floor has a positive slope to take away the urine away from my bed...

This video was genius... It definitely didnt get enough veiws..

I am a welder that has trained many people how to weld to company spec, and how to weld from scratch to company spec, in a factory production setting. When mig welding in flux core, or mig(which is with shielding gas) start with your wire speed set the same as your volts. Ex: 18 volts=180 wire speed, 20 volts=200 wire speed, and so on. If you have a good idea where you need to start with your volts set your wire speed to the ratio I just described. You will definitely have to adjust your wire speed up most of the time, but it will get you close when you start. I have a metal thickness gauge with all my welders. They're only a couple dollarseach, and paired with your manual, or diagram under the hood of the welder will get you even closer to the correct settings. You should only have to adjust your settings for your preferred speed of travel. Hope this helps.

Loved that you showed this experience. Normal guy trying welding for the first time. This will be me shortly heh! And looking at this particular welder as well vs just flux core only.

How'd you find this welder?

Anything to share at the 5 month mark? Thanks!

Great video. Answered a lot of my questions about this particular model of plasma cutter. I think I’ll buy one now.

Wire speed 2 fast for the volts ur running. U need 2 turn the voltage up or wire speed down 2 get a smooth weld. Since u have a mig welder with a rheostat u can actually turn the voltage knob while u weld to get that bacon frying sound. Looks like a good value 4 a mig welder with an infinite volt control knob.