I’m gonna have to dig a ditch to do this shiiit

I've been looking for this video , thank you

Ty

Thank you very much, just completed my gasket replacement. Your video made it possible for me to approach this job and complete it with confidence. 👍 The best video for this task on KZbin!

Thank you for showing the line up of the tools you used at the beginning of the video. I found that to be very helpful. I struggled this morning trying to remove the two bottom bolts on the fan mount bracket. I was not successful in part due to not having a flexible-head or a battery-powered ratchet wrench. The very limited access to those bolts made it difficult to get my XXL size hands in position to place the sockets and standard ratchet wrench on the six-sided bolt heads. When you mentioned that you wished you had brought your twelve-point sockets to make it easier to place the 13 mm socket on the fan mount bracket bolt heads, I was stunned that I didn’t think of that solution earlier today. Last but not least, I thought about disconnecting one end of the steering stabilizer to create more access to the bottom fan bracket bolts, but I was hesitant to do it because I had never done that before. So, I put the job on hold and started watching more videos about the fix for a vacuum pump leak. I’m very thankful that you invested the time and effort to make this video; it has been a great benefit to me!

Thanks for the video, im about to tackle this. Question, did your truck ever make any crazy “tones” prior to this. Not kidding, it sounds like dial up internet coming from my dash.

The main thing you forgot to tell us.What are the torque values on all of them bolts?Because the whole problem of this that everybody says is Ford didn't Torch them correctly and did not use lock to the same question.I ask in the beginning what are the torque values

Great vid! Most appreciated.

That’s me!!!

I have a 97 F350 and fought leaks in the valley for months . Turned out it was coming from the fuel pump. After I replaced the pump the leak returned. I did an autopsy and the cause was the way the diaphragm was swaged to the actuator shaft so the atmosphere side would fill with diesel and pump out of the vent holes. I replaced the mechanical pump with an electric pump with filters on the frame and haven't had any diesel leaks for years. So many of the replacement parts are inferior. Same with the mechanical vacuum pump.

Great video!!

This was a great video, I’ve got a 7.3 with the same symptoms and same conditions of the fluids. Going to test out the harness connections and then likely buy a heat gun lol

why put the umbrella back on? i thought the hutch mod also deleted that becasue they inevitably always break? is there another option for the end of the pick up?

Where did you order the headlights and marker lights?

Can you say cylinder wash!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

Best video

Breaker bar or ratchet who cares right 🤪🤠

Thanks man.

Checks out

Glad to see your truck fire up and sounding good...

Good job. Doesn't it drive you nuts that the bad injector didn't fail the contribution test. I had a similar problem, black smoke, no power, couldn't get over 1600 hpop psi. Lucky for me the cylinder that failed the contribution test was the bad injector (buzz test sounded off on that cyl too). Changed all the o rings on that side and put in an old injector for now. Smoke is gone, psi & power is back. I suspect it was stuck open. Next time I'll also check the injector tip for cracks. Interesting that you had black then white smoke.

After new glow plugs my cylinder #1 is saying it has an open circuit…I wonder if I bumped the injector solenoid clip off when reinstalling the valve cover. Now I have to check. I will check continuity first and buzz test.

Thank you to this info. Dumb question: How are you cleaning the valve cover wiring harness connector? Wipe off oil and compressed air? Any other methods? I’m trying to solve a P1271 code for cylinder #1.

What city do you live in. ?ca ? Hard to find an honest mechanic . Your truck looks clean . I wish mine looked like that . Cool channel learning alot .thnks much appreciated

Great info. Thanks for the video. Worth a sub for sure.

Love that you broke down the wiring harness for us. Most of the videos you see they are using scan tools that 99% of people don’t have

Sorry Greta!! OMG that cracked me up!!! 😅

I really struggled with the down pipe on my 2000 F350. That is until I watched this video. Then it took less than 5 minutes. Mine has fiberglass wrap and I thought that might be my doom but it went right in doing it this way Thank you very much

Thanks many...i am facing that job now..got same truck and watched video before hand and will watch during...looks like i gotta wait till payday for part..😮

To more easily place new magnet on without damaging. Drain the coolant. Remove coolant Reservoir Unbolt compressor ...compressor only, no a/c hoses Stand compressor up as best as you can for a better angle Use Dead Hit rubber hammer. Do Not use metal hammer, will damage unit.

Thank you!! That was awesome.

Good thinking. Will the dye harm anything if I run the engine to the next oil change interval? Just put $100 in oil in it.

Amazing video. Im taking my bed off. Did you have problems with the bed bolts. Did you grind the heads off from the top. Dave . I have a 2000 f350 7.3

I also just used this to do the same job on my 2000 F250. perfect video. thank you!

I’m trying this on my 2002 7.3!!!!!! Thanks

I’m trying to repair sending unit on 2001 F250

Did you ever address the repair of the fuel sending unit resister which supposedly is not available separately? I enjoy and appreciate your videos. Keep up the good work. 👍🏻

My 99F250 has 533000 miles on it.Never touch the air conditioning system and it blows like forty six degree air. Problem is yesterday.I turned the air on for the first time and there is nothing happening.So I looked under the truck.My center boat and the front of the clutch is falling off l o l. The magnetic coil and the pulley are obviously still there but and I'm getting 12 V to the coil, but there's no clutch.And now I'm having a hard time finding that center boat and clutch only.I don't want to have to buy the whole assembly

Great video. Like your humor and attitude too.

Still sold out. How much was it? I might just make one now that I’ve the inspiration. I’d put down some sort of shelf liner to help stop everything from rattling.

How are you checking your fluid levels?

nice video, i will be referring to this when I do those lines in the future. i ended up replacing all of the orange boots on my motor with the riffraff ones, definitely high quality and likely better than stock was new.

RUUUUUUUUUTHE

How did you stop the oil from oozing out of your hpop?

Great video Bud! You explain it well!

Really Helpful video. Especially because mine is a manual as well.

You made my day man. I had the exact same scenario, went thru the same troubleshooting you did and had the same results. Watched hours of video trying to figure out what was happening. Saw your video 2 nights ago, got a temperature gun yesterday after work, found #5 running way hotter than the rest, replaced it and no more smoke. Thank you for posting that video.

Dam its sold out.

Instead of removing the shifter to fill the trans (I would have said tranny, but that's not politically correct these days, especially if you've blown your tranny !) why not just tape a small rubber hose to a funnel and pour it into the side hole from above when you removed the boot (then you don't have to remove the shifter and introduce dirt into the trans)

Very good demonstration, thanks for posting this video. I've Liked and subscribed.