Thnx, yes, if you can save for b48 one. N13 is easy to work on, but my good does it need a lot of work. Sara's b38 powered Mini just goes, 9 months and 25k km latter not a single fault

Next you'll tell me that's not an N13 engine 😁

Snake Plissken?

@@mattwillow7 yea

Mora biti cestovna, znaci s DOT oznakom, Mini je na Exreme tires VR2 jer imaju u ponudi sve smjese od SS do Hard. To je serijska klasa, sport (trkaci) auti mogu imat i ful slick

Yes it is

@@mattwillow7 nice ! How many miles have you put on it so far ?

@@Weldeddiff not many, it did 1000 km stock, then put an MHD Stage 2 map and xHP stage 4 for the gearbox, on my 3rd launch something snapped on 2-3 shift so everything seized up. Haven't taken it apart yet so don't know if it's the engine or the gearbox, but even before that at one point coolant pump died but check engine didn't come on so we did 15km until it overheated, only then it throws the warning light. We should get to fixing it in few months, so fingers crossed it's not completely destroyed 😅

@@mattwillow7 that’s still impressive , I recently bought a m235i that over heated and now it doesn’t start . So I’m guessing I will need to get the head resurfaced and install a new head gasket I’m going to be using your videos for help , I’m not going to lie I am a bit intimidated looking at the valvetronic assembly

I honestly don't have a clue. If it isn't dual zone car I would assume that it has only one flap that regulates heat/cold and it should send it on all the vents. Then again, I don't remember what the difference is between dual and single zone climate unit, knowing BMW they might be the same, just with different control unit, in that case it might be that something inside snapped and it's not diverting it as it should leaving the hot part allways closed

@@mattwillow7 thank you, I'll have to pull everything out I think.. I already pulled out the motor and it seemed fine, but not sure where else to look

Should be the same for all F-series Minis, but can't confirm

99% that something went wrong with the plastic part that goes between the key barrel and the locking actuator. It's te hardest part to put back together, after doing this 4-5 times now I still haven't found an easy way to do it...

​@@mattwillow7can you tell me at what point (in minutes) in your video we see this? sorry for my bad english, i'm french

@@alx6584 10:03

​@@mattwillow7Thank you for your answer. what is the name of this part to be given? in fact I didn't see it when I put the lock back on

@@alx6584 don't know the name, but if you didn"t see it probably fell off when you were taking the actuator out, look for it inside the door

Mine didn't, but my R50 did though, don't know why that is...

Yup, same thing happened to me, you need a new clutch

@@mattwillow7 It must be because of the mileage. Did you buy an original clutch or is there an upgrade that supports more horsepower?

@@betounivazo3452 OEM spec clutch is OK, it holds up to 400 Nm as far as I know, so it's more than enough. You will also need to schange the flywheel, it dual mass and if the clutch is bad, it will be bad too. I have 2 videos on how we did it on my car, so vive them a look 😉

Did it rattle before the change?

No need, it will work just fine, but if you have other mods and want to gain more power, then yes

​@@mattwillow7Ok thanks for the reply

With ISTA+, tab service functions

Just a 1/4 ratchet and extentions, we managed to get a combo on which is just few mm away from the turbo, undo the bolt and then once it starts goingremove it rest of the way by hand and only the t30 bit. That's if I remember corectly, it's been a while since then 😅

@@mattwillow7 thanks for the reply. I managed to snap a T30 insert going in at an awkward angle so I'm trying to bodge something better together. They really didn't design this to be easily removed 🤪

Ebay

Silverproject.eu, I also got their camber adjustable front mounts

Unfortunately, I can't help you much because I still haven't found a better way. Did another one few months ago and fiddled with it for 15-20 min before getting it in..

Yup, only mod is a free flow 2.5" cat back exhaust

No, couldn't get it done, too manyzhings need to be changed

Hey, to change the steering wheel first disconnect the battery or you'll risk getting the airbag light on. To remove the wheel you need to undo the airbag, there are 2 bolts on the back of the wheel ( T25 or T30, don't remember exactly ). After you remove the airbag all you need to do is unplug horn and airbag from the column, undo the wheel bolt ( socket 16 )but don't remove it completely, grab the wheel and start pulling it while moving it a bit side to side. Sometimes wheel can be stuck and when you start pulling it it let's go suddenly, so you keep the bolt on not to knock yourself out. When it starts going, undo the bolt completely and take the wheel of.

BMW F21 114i converted to M135ix

what year?

​@@mattwillow7I have a problem with the centralization on the front left door of my BMW F21 2013. I think your video will help me a lot. Tkns

kzbin.info/www/bejne/onmmYX1rg7eDqNEsi=csp5YKCdXe5ekb39

Thnx, it was so much fun we have another race next saturday, but this time I'll try and make more onboard videos

@@mattwillow7 Awesome, can't wait to see :)

Hello, the intercooler from 135i can be fitted to 114i, mounting is the same and it's around 35% bigger in volume. We made a video about that ( 125i intercooler, but it's basically the same ) kzbin.info/www/bejne/qYGlhZSJqqtjZtksi=0zAWtv9wgdVKfmcu

They look much better, so I would guess they will fit a lot better too

@@mattwillow7 I want to try them on my r53, I have the JCW cat back just unsure how loud it would be being catless.

@@Hosteggy what I can tell you is that it will be louder and raspier for sure, how much it is hard to know without trying it out

Hvala, sad kada je prva utrka iza nas, sljedecu idemo jos jace 😊

They are stretch ( torque to yield ) bolts so shouldn't be reused. I did reuse them, didn't do them to the spec, but "by feel", so I wouldn't recomend that