@codynoli8925 I agree Tile is way more durable, I wouldn't consider this as a method to replace tile, but a good option your on a tight budget, or pressing timeline. To hire out the tile work it would be much more expensive in terms of labour... there's 2 trips minum to the job site as well 1 day to install tile and let the motar set up. And another day to grout and tidy up. What i did in the video took me less than 2 hours to be fully installed. Also if you were looking after something like several rental units this would be a great quick fix. For myself in thos situation I could have tiled but this jobsite was a 5 hour drive away and I had to be done that weekend plus have everything else I needed to have done. so this was a great option for me

Also i would add it's somewhat insane to me that alot of new tub surrounds are finished with drywall mud and tape right up to the surround and over the flange. This takes several days in dry time, sanding, and painting and is in the end far less durable than than my method... or don't get me started on slapping mdf trim around it. I've seen that done too, sure it's quick but doesn't hold up to water

Haha, I'm glad someone watching this has a sense of humor. Hopefully, my little trick works out for you as well as it did for me!

It might be a little trickier with the blum tip on hardware, but should work the same

That's awesome! Sadly, I grew up somewhat near the hill and hadn't been there before until I filmed this. I definitely will have to make the trek back there to explore some more!

@@Ashton1andonly. Coming in from Winnipeg, it was a nice drive. I've been in the area tree planting years ago, but mtn bike riding is more fun.

Cool!

Thanks! To be honest, I was surprised how good this looked in person. The black edge that you would normally see in a countertop was completely hidden with the Schulter edging. As long as you do a good job with flushing up the join where they but together. I would also mention that getting ahold of a good quality laminate with a realistic pattern goes a long way into how well this will end up looking. But I would agree with anyone that says this still doesn't beat the real deal, such as granite or tile, however it's a great option

@@PrivateAccoun and I appreciate the positive feedback. Thanks! I have some other videos similar to this you might enjoy as well. Cheers!

I was talking to my dad who’s been in countertop and cabinet work for well over 40 years. We were talking techniques and I mentioned your video (as that’s what I used for the faces I just put on my own cabinets). He said it’s what he’s been using for years and added: Once you use your two projected screws to make the mark on the back of your face and screw them in, back them all the out, oversize the hole in your box, then reinstall truss screws. The allows you to make ultra fine adjustments before sinking two more screws to solidify the face

@PrivateAccoun your dad's a smart man. I didn't cover that but that is something else I have done. I find i do that less frequently now since 98% of the time I'm using soft close drawer hardware that has built in fine tuning adjustment. But when there's not any adjustment built in to the slide drilling an oversized hole is what I would do.

@greenwichtahoe7341 great question! I'm pretty sure this is possible.. although I've never quite done this exact thing. If you are trying to do the same technique as in the video then I think if you had a wood veneer the same thickness as the laminate lined it up really well and taped it then follow the steps in the video I'm sure it would work. If you had 3/4" wood stock then I would adjust my approach and glue my laminate to a substrate to match this thickness and then cut both @ whatever angle, tape and glue them together. This would work as well. The trick would be to cut the laminate on the angle without chipping it. ( I'd use a different method in this case )

@greenwichtahoe7341 thanks appreciate the feedback!

Awesome! Hopefully this helps!

Well said sir! There are still some genuine and good folk out there, and your one of them. Thanks!

For sure

Haha yep, thanks!

@vvhitevvabbit6479 True some of its still visible, it's mainly from going over everything with some sand paper to take the sharpness out of it. However I would argue the "black lines" atemuch less visible than other methods. Plus if you coupled this technique with a colour core laminate on whites this wouldn't even be an issue, or on a darker colour laminate. Anyway anything can be picked on when you zoom in close enough, try zooming into my wild hair you might find some white ones in there. Cheers

True, that is a drawback to this method. If square edges or corners aren't your thing then this wouldn't be the best option. There is other ways to make plastic laminate tops with profiled edges ( I will be making a video on this at some point ) but you won't get the same effect of having the grain run over the edges like the top in this video. There is a couple other important things to consider before making this kind of top... but I saved that for my long form video if you want to check it out. Cheers!

Haha again another one with the salt. This doesn't replace stone or wood tops but a more affordable option. Cheers

@@EternallyGod not everyone can afford solid surface options. My family had a cabinetry and laminate shop in the 80s -90s. We used color core laminates, but this bending stuff is next level. We'll done.

@@rickdebacker100 then use sticks if you are poor

@@Ashton1andonly POOR!!!!

@EternallyGod your comment is a bit childish I think... With a profile name like yours, I suspect your account has been hacked by a troll intent on spreading gate and discontent as apposed to love and tolerance as God wishes. Just an observation.

Yep, Colour Core is still a thing now (works great too) . One cool thing with folding the plastic laminate this way is that the grain pattern flows over the edges

@Ashton1andonly that is very cool.

Haha the Salt! Definitely not as durable as Real stone tops, but I can assure you when done right it's surprisingly durable. There's more to it that I go over in my long form video that helps with durability if you care to check out. Cheers!

@@Ashton1andonly Or just use proper stone that lasts generations, or if not, proper wood which can be maintained. Plastic... absurd

Stone will definitely last generations I agree 100%. However, it usually works out to about twice to three times the cost vs plastic laminate countertops ( per square foot ) Money starts to add up pretty quick at that point ( and everything is so damn expensive right now) so something to consider?

@fabr5747 plastic laminate has been an affordable option for decades. Not everyone can afford solid surface. I suppose you'd rather they use butcher block or ceramic tile? Perhaps your time could be better served polishing your fine granite countertops rather than trolling this guy's work and livelihood. I'm sure there are plenty of viewers who find this content helpful.

Great question. This is your typical residential grade laminate for horizontal applications, not the thin stuff ( this particular colour is Wilsonart's Calcutta Marble 4925 07 ). In theory the thickness shouldn't matter for bending as I'm using a router to cut right up to the pattern printed paper before folding. You can check out the long form video that better shows this

Hahaha, True! Although I'm pretty sure I've bore witness to grown men shitting their pants after seeing the price tag on natural stone.. but stone would definitely be my preference given the option

@IppiopaidFEEDBACK That's Awesome! Welcome to my Channel hopefully you'll find more videos that are of interest. I have lot's of ideas and plenty in the works. Just gotta make the videos haha

I see I didn't touch on that in the video. Yes I do attach the shelf to the cleat on the wall. In the examples in the video I had just pre drilled and used a small #6 or finishing screw to hold the shelf in place. Then just used some wax fill sticks to cover the hole. You could use Brad's nails, but I like the option to remove the screw to pull off the shelf in the future I case u want to paint down the road or have to get at any wiring for the lights. Hope that answers your question

Thanks!!!

@@gentiana759 Danke!

Thanks! Definitely, that is the way to go to prevent color bleed. I was a little lucky that it worked out well in this case

Awesome thanks, hopefully it helps you!

Fair enough... I was pretty new to youtube videos at this point. Hopefully, if you were wondering about how to make a lathe on the saw that there was some nuggets of info in there.. if not, I'd be happy to answer a question or 2. I do have more recent "how to videos" that better explain the process if you're interested?

Thanks!

Haha, yes, just like it should be simple to remember my wife's birthday/ anniversary but problematic if I forget

Great tip. Thanks!

Awesome!

Thanks! It's a good one to know

Good question! So stupid of me I didn't mention it once in the video. It's CA glue with an activator. I'm using a brand called Miter Bond in the video another common brand is fast caps 2P10, and I believe gorilla glue has one as well and I'm probably sure there's many more that I can't think about off the top of my head

It's not a 2 part glue. It's any ca glue and an accelerator. You don't need any specific kit. I use Zapp glue with whatever accelerator I can get at the time.

Thanks!

Thanks!

That works too!

Double sided tape is definitely an option (I've done this as well). Although Sometimes double sided tape won't work if the drawer box is sitting back from the cabinet frame. Or the drawer front is really heavy.

If anything, you need a thick double sided tape.

Fair criticism. I remember intending to at the time but ran out of daylight that day. However.. I also wanted to showcase some of the area on the area around the town not accessible by vehicle. Thanks for the input, cheers.

Thanks!

Thanks!

Awesome! Yep, nice and simple is the best.

Nice! Let me know if it worked well for you.

Haha thanks! That's too bad, save it for the next 32 drawer fronts

Thanks!