You had the issue with the socket, because they are impact. 90 ft/lbs for a regular wrench is fine to fit. You are right though, the instructions require to be rewritten. All you had to do was lower, so the opposite wheel was on the ground, and you don't have to use wood or a bar. As you said, you didn't need red LT for the studs on the wheel nuts. That's something you have to take off.

Need to put hold down bolts at least every 2 feet both lengthways and side to side.

This guy isn't very smart. Did the plywood the hardway and d did a lot of measuring when he had template for the d rings. The way to have done the d rings is use template and mark bolt holes then drill bolt holes then grab template put where d rings go and put bolts thru the holes and mark ring on the template remove template find holesaw that is the same size a marked circle drill hole mount d ring with bolts done. Easy right.

It would of been easier to use 1 4x8x3/4 sheet since the trailer is 8' long then cut a 1x8x3/4 piece to fill in instead of making all those cuts. This way you only make one cut.

How many hours is low hours? Mine has 560

Hey! I know this is an old video but I’m about to rebuild my FS600V! It’s getting carbon on the spark plugs and running poorly. Thanks for the videos!

i have a trailer like this, sad that it takes 2 sheets to cover it. i have a used osb atm it got really bad. not my 1st choice as it was scrap wood

Replec injection pump 4045 engine

I would flip your anchor plates so the longer flange overlaps the L channel frame rail. This will put more tension on the flange nearest the frame runner since you're going to load them inward. Something to think about also, Spray the plywood with a mix of diesel and used motor oil (3/1 ratio works well) to rainproof your plywood. Do that 1 time per year, the wood will last 20 years.

Hold tie down anchor plate on the bottom when marking holes so you can make sure they don’t interfere with the grid and you won’t need to cut it. Also drill anchor bolt holes from the bottom for the same reason.

What rebuild kit did you order?

Poor choice of wood, your plywood will not last very log before it de-laminates.

Mini bolt cutters would have been easier

You know that backing plate is your template for your hole

Thanks, we are going to give this a try

Thanks for showing this! Question: Why use the 0.05 gauge first? Can't you just use the 0.10 only?

I am very confused by this video. At first, you set the initial gap at .05mm, torque the rocker nut and it's good. Then you need to check the cold clearance. There is an edit/gap in the video, then you proceed to put a .1mm feeler gauge in there and it goes in. First, why are you setting an initial gap of .05mm at all when you need to set a cold gap immediately after of .1mm? Second, and most importantly, how are you setting a .05mm gap, then magically inserting a .1mm feeler and that fits right in? What did I miss here? Why is there an edit in the video when you're switching feeler gauges from .05mm to .1mm?

Also, it's not a bad idea to throw a starter relay kit on there. That way you won't be drawing all that current through all the switches.

Drill from the bottom easy and dont haven't use grinder

how deep can you dig with a BX23?

Again, very helpful video, thank you

Super helpful video, thank you for posting 👍

I can't believe you would need even written instructions for this. To me this is a pretty basic setup. Locktite to the spacer retainer bolts and nuts. Never on the wheel bolts. Tapered nuts and bolts always are attached toward the hub.

Did you not fasten the ply wood down? Just layed it in there? Once it dried out have you had any warping?

Should of got bora

What a beautiful dog!

I got one for 150$ lol it works good but on its second season now it’s not working so good :( it bogs down when I engage the blades . Any clues as to what could be wrong I’ve replaced all the belts oil change spark plug fuel lines everything bedsides. The carburetor

I found your video so informative that I was able to rebuild my John Deere engine. Thank you so much.

Great vid! I'm looking into buying a 185. Would you say you recommend this bad boy? I hear JD doesn't make them like this model anymore...

Hi. Can you tell me how to get access to remove head for gasket replacement?? I can not figure out how to get around the 2 shrouds?? Thanks

2:10 Don't put load on a fully curled down bucket - you can break the cylinders.

very underrated, you should be getting mad views

Thank you for sharing this - I will soon be buying a BX2380 where I have a ton of leaves to deal with as you have shown here. I’m curious how you got your leaves to that hill… blower, lawn sweeper behind the tractor, or other method? Always interested in how others deal with a heavy volume of leaves. Thanks again for the heads-up on this.

Aren't you supposed to film the actual part you are installing?

I really have no idea and probably should not comment but maybe add it if not on it , a Kubota spark arrestor ?

Just a thought. Considering your tie downs are only attached to the expanded metal which isn’t very strong, maybe the 3/4” plywood is the better choice. Say you have something pretty heavy in that trailer like say a motorcycle and the small spot welds that hold the expanded metal give way over time and you go around a corner and that force pops up that expanded metal from the frame there a possibility 1/2” plywood (especially if it older and been on there awhile could beak and fold over and you dump your load over on its side. Unless you slap some bolts here and there through the plywood and attach it directly to the frame which is much stronger that could very well happen. That expanded metal is very flimsy on those trailers. They aren’t using the good stuff anymore. I can literally bend it with my hands. I’d say the heavier plywood would be much stronger and less likely to break and fold over if what I suggested ever happened. Fairly unlikely but definitely something to think about especially without high sides to keep anything from flying off the trailer should that happen. Personally I’d go with the 1/2” like you said and bolt it to the frame just for safety sake. Just a thought.

I guess my thoughts are when Kubota designed them they weren't really planning on people pushing big piles of dry leaves 🤣 I pretty much stay to snow dirt gravel and horse poop😁

Mine is a 1991 LX 186 with the same setup. Do you think it's the same solenoid?

Close call for sure! Id get a proper pusher for leaves if you do that particular job a lot for hours! I’m sure Kubota would say the bucket isn’t designed to push large piles of leaves even tho it’ll do it! Same concept as using good judgment of how deep of mud or water to go in without getting stuck or damaging the tractor!

Does the service manual call for the piston to be at or near TDC before starting this process?

Part 1: kzbin.info/www/bejne/iYitiGp9a9OXgNE

Part 2: kzbin.info/www/bejne/bJStkpWfZaiAa80

Close call, that would have gotten out of control real fast. I will have a bunch of leaves to clean up this spring and will keep this in mind.

Thanks for the help, I didn't even think of this.

What’s the link for the first one you had ordered? The one with the straight plastic tab, I’m struggling to find that one

So bolts do not come with the toothbar?

Hey, what is the serial number of your engine? I think mine may be a '86 185 with the center fender Neutral lever for push mode. Whoever had it before me took the JD serial number sticker off and never stamped the serial number into the steel frame when they took the sticker off. Wonder if our engine serial numbers are similar and be able to confirm its a '86. thinking the later models had the neutral rod under the seat.

Not that i happens that often, but when to stuck the front bucket the first time, my brain was like "NOOOOO". Having it curled all the way down, like you did, you pull the stress onto the cylinder caps which are not that strong. Maybe try keeping the teeth and bottom of the bucket in line with the loader arm. This places most the stress into the loader arms, the strongest part of the loader.

Where did you get the solenoid from? Everyone seems to have only the plastic tab ones.

Keep videos coming man, awesome video 👍