I’m not sure I follow your question. Are you referring to the piston being above the block deck? Some engines are built that the piston protrudes a couple thousandths above the deck. You’ll need to verify what your deck clearance is and if it should be above or below the deck or flush. There’s too many engines and piston kits that can alter this dimension and will depend on what you’re running.

Not sure exactly how many valve covers you could do, but to put it this way. I’ve done both main covers, motor mounts, bolts, coil brackets, transmission bell housing and output shaft, and a bit of other misc parts in gloss black and still about 1/4 to a 1/3 of a pound left. A pound goes a long way. For the blue I have a bit over half and it’s done the valve covers, valley cover, oil pan, bolts, and some other stuff

@ yeah is sounds pretty efficient,thanks for the reply

It’s much cheaper than paints once you’re setup for it. Thanks for watching!

Thanks and glad you’re enjoying! More content is on the way, I’ve been on hiatus due to work and fishing lately, but shortly I’ll get to editing and posting videos!

Generally, mounting directly with no bushing can cause vibrations to loosen or crack components. Having a small rubber bushing can mitigate these issues as it’ll dampen any vibrations from the motor and pump running

Having the compressor trip at the correct PSI is important. Hence why I baby sat and watched that it didn’t over pressurize and turn into an 80 gallon bomb. You don’t wanna be near any air compressor if it ruptures!

Gen III and IV cranks are interchangeable. Nothing dimension wise changed. You’ll have issues with 24x and 58x reluctor wheels between the two generations. You’ll need to swap the reluctor wheel pending on what ECM you’re running to provide the correct crank signal. Gen III is 24x and Gen IV is 58x

If you’re planning to swap your LT1 to a Gen III/IV LS to mate to your existing T56 then a long crank will work. I’d recommend getting a short crank and using a factory spacer if you have a choice so later on if you wanna swap to an LS style transmission, it’s just ditching the crankshaft spacer. The long cranks won’t allow you to use an LS era transmission without swapping the crankshaft itself.

@@mikesbrokenacres thank you that’s the answer I was looking for

Thanks for watching! Any cleaner with lye (sodium hydroxide, mainly all purple colored cleaners) you should avoid using on aluminum. Mean Green should be safe for aluminum but I haven’t tested that one myself… Yet! Good luck on your restoration!

Glad you’re loving the videos! As for the diffuser on the powder coat gun, I personally find it works better for coverage without the diffuser. The gun can have some issue getting into 90 degree bends, so without the diffuser the powder flows a bit straighter instead of around the diffuser. The downside to not running a diffuser is you can get too much coverage on parts if you’re not being careful. If you mod the J tube on the gun and run your air PSI extremely low it’s a great gun and you’ll get a lot of use out of it! If you have any questions feel free to ask! Thanks for watching!

I currently use Prismatic Powder exclusively for all my needs. As for the parts here they are done already and just a basic gloss black. The transmission I didn’t use any primer as I’m not worried on max protection with the skid plate. Suspension/chassis parts I always use a primer and then top coat. In the future I plan on doing a full length video on blasting, priming, and coating for max rust and impact protection. Right now I have a 4l60e video in the works! Thanks for watching!

Yes, it does have an on/off switch on the side. So far, the mag starter has performed wonderfully and I haven’t had any issues regarding it. And the switch does work, I throw both the switch and breaker when I’m not using my compressor. I’ve accidentally forgotten to turn the switch back on and wondered why my compressor doesn’t work for a hot second!

If you’re working on an LS, like I was in this video, chances are very slim of getting the seal out without damaging or ruining it. I’d always recommend a new seal in this situation. Thanks for watching!

It’ll do 19s. I’d recommend looking into doing the duckbill mod if you care about your rims. If you’re not careful with the bar with the changer will scratch your rims. Make sure to pad the changer with rubber to prevent any scratches or marring on your rims. As for the motorcycle tires, Harbor Freight use to sell an adapter that mated with this changer. They no longer sell it right now but you may be able to find one used. For motorcycle tires I spoon them on, I find it’s quicker and easier myself.

@@mikesbrokenacres good to know about the spoons being faster. Thanks

If you watched the video you’d see I pointed out where the incoming 240v comes in and where the wires go for your motor. If you’re having trouble with the pressure switch, it’s wired under the thermal relay for the in and out. Your wiring for the pressure switch may and probably is different then mine. Depends on make of the switch. Look at the wiring diagram. One wire goes out to the switch. One wire goes from the switch to the other terminal under the relay. Make sure to ground it all. Remember it’s 240v single phase. Two hots and a not. If you cannot figure out the basic wiring between the wiring diagrams and this video and comment, call an electrician. You do not want to be on the receiving end of 20 amps of 240v.

Absolutely! And if you build it as two walls, isolated as much as possible from each other, and offset the studs between walls you can reduce it much farther!

I absolutely should have. I didn’t think at the time it’d be so destructive to my test samples. I plan to revisit this once I setup some ventilation and test this against a few products to find what cleans aluminum safely and the best

Thanks! And from 0 psi to 150 psi it takes about 6 minutes to fill my 80 gallon tank

I used an 1/8” bit. Since these videos the only thing I do different is I run the gun without the diffuser on the tip (the yellow plastic). I find the gun is a lot better without it in corners and I just bump the PSI to barely on when spraying. I don’t know how the metal tip or the PVC mod affect the gun but currently I’m happy with how it works with just the holes drilled out and 2 added. I’m glad you like the content! Thanks for watching!

Yeah this one came from there. It needs the ways repaired and a 3 and 4 jaw chuck made for it. It had all the change gears and the other attachments minus a taper attachment. I’ve slowly gotten it back to working order and looking good again.

@@mikesbrokenacres I had seen it up for sale, and was debating on making them an offer when you must have gotten it. I look forward to seeing you progress with it. I might be able to get you the specs for the chucks.

Thanks 👍

The chips I found tasted fine to me! They aged just like a fine wine

Thanks for watching!

Thanks, gotta give credit where credit is due. You’re the original founder of this mod and you also make an excellent replacement for the original one. So thank you for your videos on this!

Thanks and awesome! Let me know how it goes for you then!

I am a Chevy guy so makes sense!

​@@mikesbrokenacres Engine paint is a super tough finish.

Everything minus the bed, chip tray and legs I’m going to powder coat. If I had a large oven I’d do all of it. I’m not sure if I want to take it to someone to do those since my oven isn’t large enough or if I want to spray it. If I do spray it I’m thinking an epoxy primer on it first. Perhaps a red and black combo would a good choice!

@mikesbrokenacres7927 ohhhhh a powder coat. Ive never worked with those but i bet itll look sweet

I believe 2001+ is all short crank

No worries! Didn’t even think of that, when I buy tires locally for my truck I always say LT before the size and end it with ten ply to make sure I get exactly what I want. Didn’t even think of the 6 and 8 ply tires that are also LT. Thanks!

what kind of wood you use in order to mount the tire changer down