fair question! i prefer being loose with a wash and layering back up, it lets me control how much of the recessed areas keep they shade when i come back in with a layer paint. pin washing was also work if that's more your jam, i personally stress a lot about keeping tidy so i just slap it around and tidy back up later! in terms how knowing which areas to leave darker, that's mostly up to you! through the years i've found that i like to put a little interest onto flat areas like the shoulder pads by leaving some of the shade towards the bottom of the panels and painting up a small gradient with watered down paint, but plenty of people are happy to just paint right up to recesses and leave a sort of 'black line' to help separate detail. it's entirely down to your own preference!

​@@HowAdzPaintsI tried your method of shading so it's darker at the bottom and it looks great especially after the edge highlights! I have one more question if you don't mind. I'm trying to paint sections of a vehicle in the Nihilakh colours and I'm not sure how to go about it. I've heard using a was on vehicles can make It look bad so maybe I just use a coat of Ahriman blue and then dry brush with temple guard blue? But I'm not sure as I don't want it to be noticeably brighter than my other figures.

@@akqa8186 glad that's working out! :D yeah, drybrushing would be your best friend for vehicles. if you're worried about the colour being too stark, mix your colours 50/50 and drybrush with that. if you feel like you need to go brighter from there, just use Temple Guard Blue on its own, it'll be less of a jump that way 👍

​@@HowAdzPaintsthanks so much :))

brushes i used here are a Citadel Medium Shade brush and a Rosemary & Co Kolinsky Sable Series 33 (not sure which size, likely a size 2)

@@HowAdzPaints thanks dude, really helpful!

much appreciated!

best of luck with them :D

appreciate that! learning as i go with OSL and light casting :D

base is covered in Stirland Mud (and some patches of Stirland Battlemire, but GW doen't make that one anymore). when it's dry it's washed with Nuln Oil, and drybrushed with Gorthor Brown, Baneblade Brown and Tyrant Skull, all progressively lighter than the last 👍 i dot around some GreenStuffWorld green glow resin crystals with my Necrons too, but they're not on these guys' bases. wasn't enough room for them!

@@HowAdzPaints thank you!!

thank you! all my citadel paints are transferred into dropper bottles, so pre-thinned. never used a wet palette, i’m too lazy for the upkeep 😅

glad to be of use! :D

thank you! 🫡

fantastic! hope it turns out well :D

i'm Leviathan till i die, but other flavours are good too ;D

Building skill just takes practice! You can do it, I believe in you.

with the darker colours here - namely the Caliban Green and Warpstone Glow - i just use water. they hold well enough, so a few drops of water to one of paint and a few layers does fine with Moot Green and brighter colours like it i've been using Lahmian Medium instead, plus a little water. colours as bright as that need a little extra help 👍

@@HowAdzPaints thank you! Maybe I am going too thin.

no problem! i try my best to get a close match based on my limited knowledge 👍

Iron within, brother

you're right, i *am* alpharius

.

thank you!

not currently! i'm not an Ork collector, but never say never. he looks like he'd be fun to paint :D

they’re from a Sergeant Castus kit. cut down the base to fit the Overlord’s base size, so only two of the crawlers would fit. i’ve seen them floating around on ebay still for £35 plus, so a bit pricey now 😩

@@HowAdzPaints much appreciated, thank you. Will look to see if there is a 3D file for them somewhere.

thank you!

thank you! :)

thank you! thoroughly enjoyed a green skin! inspired me to want some more :D