I _THINK_ I tried that but not 100% sure... I just tracked down V6.71 and it SEEMS to load my hex files... LOL, not sure they would sell me one again since they seem to think I am a dishonest customer...

So just to start with the obvious. You mention your command as using COM6 But your error is COM3???

@@tjones99 sorry - yes- my com port is 3. And yes - I changed it to "COM3" in the prompt....

Ok - after reading your edit in the bottom of the description about updating the drivers, I was able to get it to work. I have a Win10 system and after updating drivers and rebooting computer, the communication from the computer to the DM card worked. Next I will be trying to see if the drone allows the RC to connect in Camera mode on the app. We'll see tomorrow. There are several comments in here that indicated that doing all of this didn't help with their problem of connecting the RC to the app. I'll let you know. Thanks for the tutorial - even if this doesn't work, I am enjoying the whole process as much as a complex jigsaw puzzle.

Well, after putting Humpty Dumpty back together again... still no 'Camera' view popping up on the phone when it is plugged into the RC. Bummer. I had high hopes for this fix. The only thing I have left to try is the last thing you have listed in your description edits - trying to connect it first to an apple product (which I don't have) to see if the apple connection allows me to connect to the RC in order to upgrade the firmware using the app. I'll post back here if I get any results.

www.xgecu.com/en/download.html forums.xgecu.com/viewthread.php?tid=20

Cannot justify the expense of that... but thanks for the tip.

My guess is at times moisture and humidity are making a poor but suitable connection for an occasional reading but when dry and warm it’s no connection.

@@dannorm5760 I am not aware of any upgrade to work with other devices.

@@SWBoumBoum once I have points selected (they change colour) I just hit the delete key.

Acest t48 poate înlocui rt809h sau e mult mai bun acela?

@@porklaser does this produce an error message when programming or does the programmer software quietly do its thing and the chips just aren’t programmed right?

@@tjones99 Program appears to work on first attempt, but fails verification. Subsequent read and program attemtps fail ID check, and reads produce all zeros for all memory ranges. Some speculate it improperly erases the chip and clears the oscal value.

That's a really good question... I don't have experience with other units so I can really say if there are better ones... Is it worth it... depends on what you are scanning I think... Lets look at the example I filmed... battery clamp... reality is that anyone decent in a CAD program like Fusion 360 or even TinkerCAD could probably get a cleaner more accurate model created in about the same time and then you have something that can easily be edited and modified... But there are lots of things like human hand, figurines and other irregular shapes that are very challenging to design in any CAD program. In those cases I think this is a great tool for the task and worth the money.

Not aware of a solution. Sorry.

@@tjones99 That's what I am finding out, but thanks for confirming that. I know a new board can be purchased for a boatload of money on Amazon, but how would I know for sure that this is the problem? The symptoms are the same. The drone sat for 9 mos and then I flew it three times in a week with no problem. 2 days after the last flight I started up the drone and the RC but the video would not connect. I can raise and lower the gymbal, but I'm really afraid to fly without the video feed.

No this was my first 3D scanner other than trying a little manual photogrammetry

The problem is the software not the T48 (or T56). You can run the software in demo mode without a programmer attached (which is what I advise before buying) and select your chip type and load your Intel HEX file. No I did not forget about the update they give you. I tried the update, I contacted support, I waited for the NEXT update where they promised to fix the issue and it was still an issue. I tried t5yhe following versions and NONE of them loaded my HEX files properly. 705, 1250, 1263, 1266, and since you reminded me I just downloaded 1267 and tried it and guess what? Out of Address of Device. (And for yuks I selected T56 as my programmer in demo mode). So no, I didn't forget the update and here we are 8 months later and they still haven't fixed the software. Like I said, great hardware... but the software and support sucks.

Oh and I have no trouble SELECTING the chip type 12F509... it is when I load an Intel HEX file that was made FOR the 12F509 that the software says the Intel HEX file is invalid. Compiled using multiple versions of MPLAB and MPLABX and also with Great Cow Basic and other compilers that support the 12F509. The Intel HEX files work with my other programmers.

@@tjones99 Where can I get my hands on one of those chips that you are having trouble with I can test it for you in my t-56 and see what happens but you will have to tell me what to do or what to write to it, unless you just want to read it for now.

Glad it was helpful!

I agree it seems like a minor bug and after pointing it out to XGECU support and them saying they would fix it in the next release and waiting 2 months for that next release to find it not fixed is pretty sad and also an indicator of their support level in my opinion. Here it is 4 months from contacting support and no new release since the one at the 2 month mark... I have been watching. As I said in the video, I do LIKE the device, if they fixed the software I would likely purchase it again... The device works only with their software and their software so exactly how are they correct in stating it supports the devices I use when it does not correctly load a code file to program the devices? It has a 40 pin ZIF socket, does that mean it supports any chip you can plug into that socket? No. Supporting a chip means you can load a code file and program the chip... without errors. I do not disagree that hex to bin is easy and yes, if you import the file, manually set the config bits and save the file and reload it, it APPEARS to be correct, but when you are writing and testing code and there are multiple iterations happening do you really want to have to be manually setting the config bits for every iteration? The chances of making a mistake and testing defective code go up and the time spent goes up. Do you actually trust that the software is going to do the right thing when programming? The only way to be sure it is programmed correctly would be to program it with the XGECU unit then verify it using a different programmer that loads the code correctly. If it gives you and error message and fails to load the config bits, how else are you supposed to verify that the device is programmed correctly including the config bits? What exactly do you suggest for debugging the root cause. I tried producing HEX files using 4 completely different development environments as well as multiple versions of the MicroChip development environment. All produced very different looking hex files. All produced the error. I tried making my own "device" in the software (which as far as I can tell simply allows you to copy an existing device and name it something else so I am not really sure what the purpose of that is). I just tried loading the hex file and manually setting the Config bits and saving the hex file and then comparing the hex files and there appear to be differences in the hex files that makes me not trust that process. I also went back and gave their Hex2BIN utility another shot and was not able to get it to open a hex file without a program exception (and the all Chinese menus do not work as normal and the only way I found to open a hex file was to right click and select what I think is Open)

​@@tjones99not sure what is going on, but I just picked some random PIC12F509 project from github (/tanahome/S2DP_PIC12F509), loaded the source in MPLAB X IDE v6.20, and compiled with MPLAB XC8 Compiler. The resulting hex file loaded no problem at all in MiniPro (TL866), but as you found out Xgpro (T48/T56/TL866II Plus) spits out that error. the older MiniPro software also gives the option to enable or disable the CONFIG region. whereas Xgpro only shows the "FLASH" region. So i just think they did not implement parsing the CONFIG bits in their software. That is a serious regression.

As far as I know, no.

I didn't think so but I had to ask .. looks like I'll be buying one ..

So while recently working with some LightBridge units I found there are multiple versions of DJI Assistant... at least 3 versions... and I found that one version detected my LightBridge 1 unit but not my LightBridge 2 unit and a third detected only my drones... I suspect you may be using the incorrect version. It seems you can download and install all versions on the same machine... www.dji.com/ca/downloads/softwares/assistant-dji-lightbridge www.dji.com/ca/downloads/softwares/assistant-dji-2 www.dji.com/ca/downloads/softwares/dji-assistant-2-consumer-drones-series So try the different versions of Assistant and see if any of them connect...

@@tjones99 phantom 3 pro is not on the supported drones list on any of these 3 versions.

@@luisvaldez6204Sorry... I was just working on some LightBridge units and the above reply was applicable to them not Phantom 3 Professional... I do not believe that I ever connected the Phantom 3 Professional (P3P) to my PC and had anything more than what you are seeing on the PC in device manager... at least not connecting to any DJI software like Assistant... Once I had done the flash procedure using the TI flash utility and Putty etc, I then connected the controller to my phone and used the DJI GO app on the phone to connect to the controller and the drone and get live video. I just did it again to test and with my iPhone running the DJI GO app without the controller connected I see the connect to your device screen, and as soon as I plugged in the controller via USB lightning cable the app immediately knew it was connected to a Phantom 3 Professional and said Aircraft Connected. When I click Camera I see the drone camera view. But... my recollection when first doing this was I ran into a number of issues when I was using different cables to my phone (tablet) and different phones (tablets). Specifically your cable must be a charge AND sync cable... many are charge only. And regarding phones... I had some android devices that I was never able to get DJI GO to work with. So make sure you are using a device that is known to work with the DJI GO app. I have personally successfully used iPhone 7, iPhone 12 mini and iPhone 12. I recall using a couple of different Android phones and tablets successfully but I cannot test today as I no longer have the devices or they are no longer running the stock Android on them... I do recall you had to enable USB Debugging in the Android OS before they would work.

@@luisvaldez6204Oh, and another viewer posted the following comment recently "When you flash the firmware given by your zip files, it can only communicate with Apple devices, android devices will still remain in the same disconnected state, even with usb debugging and every cord and device I own. I only have android devices. After a week of struggling (the first time) I finally found the solution. The controller needs to be updated to 1.3.2 before it will work with android. From there is needs to be updated even more to be used, this can be done ota through the controller. My dads iphone 7 saved the day twice now. Happy flying! "

Thanks for that info. it makes sense@@tjones99

Thanks. Makes it worth it to hear that.

Still got the same motor? V4 Evinrude? That was a great combination for that boat. For its age it was a light motor on a small boat. And it was nice low profile. Went quick and pulled a lot of skiers when Mike owned it!

@@tjones99 yup the old 140 still runs great I just put a prop on it we hit 55mph with it. Currently bringing back some love to the interior didn’t have that bench when we got it just 2 front to back seats

What size is this boat?

@@Mk4_Kolby it’s 17ft

While the Seal Lite scanner has a USB-C prot on it, it appears to require special cabling to connect. It comes with a Y cable to USB-C where one part of the Y goes to your computer and one part goes to their provided power adapter. Are you using their cable and their power adapter?

I see where I didnt have the right cable going to the scanner, but unfortunately its still not detecting the scanner.

That was my issue. Thanks!

I had serious doubts for the first two days. Then I had a few key moments. Now I am at the “this is wicked amazing” stage!!!

@@tjones99 awesome! I have a 57 Chevy 4 door hardtop that has quite a few pieces needed that are not reproduced yet. I will scan them, clean up the STL, and have them machined, cast, or 3D printed. I also have a ton of other projects too.

@@aurktman1106 I can't stress enough how significant cleaning up the scans before alignment is... Getting rid of the base for starters... This is one area where Table Scan rocks... and my valuable lesson with table scan I learned (the hard way as usual) was the table itself has to have a recognizable pattern of depressions in it so the scan software knows what angle the table is at at all times! Cleanup is huge. I have ordered the 3DMakerPro table to see if it is better than my home made pattern. I also experimented with "dry shampoo spray" that will really help with shiny car part (shiny anything) scanning. This dry shampoo coats with a dull white finish that comes off easy... why anyone would put this on their hair is beyond me but it works for scanning. Oh and I found it very hard to align a part I was scanning that was MOSTLY symetrical... easy to confuse the align algorithm (and me in manual align) ... so I used hot glue to put a few irregular spaced blobs on the part which made it easier for alignment and MUCH easier for manual alignment (which I use a lot) and then once all are aligned and the Process stage looks great other than the hot glue bumps I just delete the bumps from the scan like you would delete noise and let the "fill gaps" take care of the removed portions and rerun the process stage.

@@tjones99 thanks for the info! I will start doing that tomorrow, going to order some dry shampoo spray now. A bunch of the parts I want to scan are chrome plated so it’s a must to dull them up.

​@@tjones99thank you for the tutorial, I'm thinking about buying this to scan small parts and it really helps seeing someone using the software. Ps: dry shampoo absorb oils in your hair, then you brush it away (hopefully outside) and so it manages to give your hairs somewhat of a "clean" look... That said is mostly catered towards unwashed teenage girls xD

Yes give it another shot. I know I didn’t use fancy screen recording etc but I think you can clearly see what I was doing mouse wise as I went through the steps.

@tjones99 THANK YOU! I went ahead and bought a Seal Lite and turntable and while waiting for delivery watched some previous reviews, few of which were complementary, I started doubting my purchase. But I think you’ve driven home the point that the learning curve is steep but the device and software are very capable given practice. I’m confident that this will meet my needs eventually. Great tutorial.

@@johnprouty6583 I do t think you will be disappointed once you are over the hump. It’s getting the steps to that first successful scan that is killer. I was close to throwing in the towel a few times before my first successful scan. It’s all been improvement since then. Is it perfect? Nope. Is it as easy to use as a photocopier? Nope. But the task itself performing is complex and with a little experience it gets much easier. Oh and scanning like thousands of frames is pretty much a waste of time I find. 200-400 good frames is better than 1400 frames. A few angles with 300 frames each and a little cleanup gets you a pretty good 3D model.

Yes but primarily learning turntable operation. I haven’t tried anything really detailed yet. But I’m loving it.

Does your Youshiko also use the SHT21 chip for temp and humidity? If so then a quick glance at the datasheet for the SHT21 shows its I2C address is 40 and the AHT25 datasheet shows its I2C address is 38. I searched for devices with I2C address 40 and that led me to this page which might help. www.mysensors.org/build/humidity_si7021

And this is why I take the time to do these... Welcome!

Thanks for watching!

I had no issues on Windows 10 so not sure adding the extra layer of complexity makes sense.

If I had to do it all over again I would make a CNC plasma cutter first.

Merci!

I have not imported from Inkscape yet but I see no reason why that wouldn't work.