Lens wide open, and you can see I pushed the exposure quite a bit in post, since it's so much grainier than the rest of the film!

@@madscienti11 you're good! thanks for the reply! i'll shoot my first 16mm film next week in Okinawa Japan, i hope i'll get usable images 😌

It's pretty heavy, definitely requires some weight training to take it long distances. I used the Zenitar 16mm which is a little lighter than the Meteor 5-1, so that helped a bit.

Great short! The image quality is superb for what its age, and minimal signs of light leaks. Does your k3 use a m42 mount?

@@jiving0078 Yep, M42 mount, and I have just the two lenses I mentioned above

I believe that is specific to the 514XL-S model, and the 514XL doesn't have as much of that particular issue.

It's called Cinelab 🙂

Sadly no-and I don't think there's anywhere to get it processed either.

What are you trying to accomplish? The lens of this camera (and other super 8 cameras) is only designed to cover the 8mm frame, so you'll get a tiny circle in the middle of your mirrorless camera's sensor. I'm assuming that's not your goal?

@@madscienti11 I thought with creating an adapter, the correct flange distance might be able to cover the sensor. Ofc this would increase the focal length but yea. I wanted to simply adapt the lens to my camera

@@buddymiles7210 I don't think you're going to get a result that you'll like. The focal length of the lens won't change-it's an optical property of the lens itself. You can try and do the math yourself, but if you move the lens far enough away from your sensor to cover the whole thing, it'll be a super-macro-only lens. Let alone the issues of actually disassembling the lens from the camera... What is your goal? Are you just looking for a fast lens? The reason super 8 camera lenses can be so fast is because they optimize for the tiny coverage of the 8mm frame.

Good question! Generally for super 8 titles, I just make an image on either my computer or phone screen, and then record that using the camera's macro mode. Sometimes I'll use manual exposure or tweak the exposure a little so it comes out well.

I think the 518AZ is totally different from the 514XL-if you're mechanically handy, you could try taking the camera apart. honestly, a lot of people get by without ever using the power zoom so that's probably what I'd suggest, especially if you're not as comfortable with repair.

Hi Johnny, I don't know much about the 512XL model, since I don't have one, but it sounds like your motor isn't making enough torque to turn the film cartridge, or the cartridge is internally jammed. If you manually advance the cartridge with your finger, does it turn freely?

Hey there! For manual exposure, you'll need some way to meter light: you can either use a dedicated light meter, a phone app, or there's a way to "guess" called sunny 16. (In this case though, since the camera has an auto mode, I'd always use auto mode over guessing). If you change the shutter angle or framerate, you'll change the effective shutter speed, but full open at 18fps is roughly a shutter speed of 1/40 sec. (155 degree shutter angle/360 degrees * 1/18fps) To ensure the diopter is focused, I'll go to a place where I can see something very far away, zoom all the way in, set the lens to infinity and then adjust the diopter until the image is sharp.

@@madscienti11 oh okay thank you! I will be using 24 fps. what will the shutter speed be if I keep it on 24 fps? I will try look for a light meter though.

@@moonrabbitpictures6595 You can use the same math for 18fps as 24fps: 155/360 * 1/24 = ~1/56, or close enough to 1/60 for your meter. Again though, that only works if you have the shutter angle set to fully open. Each stop of the shutter angle setting will increase the effective shutter speed by one stop (so, 1/125 and then 1/250).

Hi there! Based on the body style, the 512XL looks more similar to the 814E or 814XL than the 514XL. My best guess from your description would be that there's a little gear that engages the zoom and it's either misaligned or stripped.

I've never tried a 1218, but from what I've seen online, I don't think the 1218 is worth it over the 1014E. The 1218 has fewer features and requires mercury batteries-and as I mentioned in the video, I really use the wide angle end more than the zoom end, so going all the way to the super high zoom of the 1218 doesn't really have a huge appeal to me.

@@madscienti11 thanks! I’ll try to get a 1014E first. There are certainly many fun features on this one. Canon was thinking about the student or amateur filmmaker opposed to people who only got their cameras out during birthdays, holidays, vacations, ect.

@@madscienti11 I was also thinking of a Beaulieu 4008ZM but doing my research they seem problematic, so 1014 it is!

@@oldradiosnphonographs I know a lot of the Beaulieus take batteries that are proprietary and need re-celling to work-the later model Canons are really nice in that they only require AAs.

@@madscienti11 welp. I just bought the 1014. It’s the best I can get for my budget. Would like an XLS but I’ll be fine with the AZ E.