No. Read the comments...this was already addressed

Ground to chassis

Noise is typically a ground loop somewhere in the electrical system. The Amp needs a clean ground to chassis. Same gauge wire or larger than the power wire to the Amp. No paint where the o ring grounds, scrape any paint off. Use a ground loop isolator on the RCA cables. If nothing helps the Amp could be faulty and try a different Amp to identify the propblem.

@mattsawesomeshow I assumed ground loop as well. Have a good clean chassis ground to the aftermarket amp. The loc ground is good and clean in almost the exact area in the video. Like I said, the drone happens with the vehicle running any of the doors closed and the volume muted only from the aftermarket 12's. But the moment you open a door, the hum/drone goes away, you can physically hear it just disappear. The door is completing a ground circuit that is causing noise interference through the loc and the rca cables. I am an auto tech irl, I have poured over all the wiring diagrams for the radio/nav/infotainment center. Poured over the stock bose amp wiring diagrams. Worst case scenario, I will go to our local car installer and try to solicit some free advice. I am almost curious if the loc is bad.

"Road Noise" from engine running creating audible feedback can be difficult to track down. I used to install car stereo at several car audio shops. Finding the cause can be tricky. In a number of cases we would swap out the battery AND the battery ground terminal to solve the problem. Door open/close indicates the problem is in the electrical system somewhere. I would try an LOC swap with one that has noise filtering. AMAZON sells RCA ground loop isolators. They just plug in with barrel connectors. In some instances we had to re run the primary Amp power wire 8 gauge or 4 gauge down the opposite side electrical of the vehicle. The power wire is not shielded and susceptible to picking up transient noise from adjacent wires and components. If it's on the driver side...take a scrap piece of wire and run it down the passenger side. Hook it up and see if the noise goes away with the engine running. If it works, there's your problem. Tuck it and cover it, good to go.

Drain plugs would be great if they were standard on all vehicles. I haven't don't the cabin filter video upload yet.

@@mattsawesomeshow thank you I’ll keep an eye out for the upload. I have a 2011 ESV with 85k on it so I need to get some of these tasks knocked out.

Glad it helped!

I would try swapping cables - try a different Line out Converter. If that doesn't work, it's more likely a speaker output from the radio/amp could be fried. on a whim check the radio "Balance" in the audio settings on the menu and make sure your balance is centered and not to LEFT or RIGHT channels in the menu.

@@mattsawesomeshow thanks will try those.. Just one more thing I thought of..If I unplug the connector I tapped for the converter then the stock sub stops working

The Stock sub is optional. You can disconnect the harness or keep it plugged in@@WarYaht

@@mattsawesomeshow got it.. I appreciate the response.. I checked the balance and it was all centered so I ordered a different loc

Nothing out of the ordinary

@@mattsawesomeshow OK... Thank you

I fill until I have a slight run over. Pumping it slowly. I would use shop towels to clean the inside housing of the diff.

@@mattsawesomeshow thanks for the response! Mine is an 07 Escalade AWD also, also should this be done on a cold rear differential or warmed up rear differential?

@4Runner21 I don't think it matters. All depends on how much time you have. Warm fluid viscosity will pour faster, cold takes longer to drain. If you're opening the diff completely then it doesn't matter as you would be wiping with shop towels. I've even heated up with a heat gun to speed it up. 15 mins of driving and immediately opening up will helpm

Mechanic shops use a flush machine which puts pressure on the Transmission which can be catastrophic. This method uses the engine and transmissions own components to flush the fluid out of the transmission. Then you can safely gravity fill with new ATF

Yeah I was told by my pops to never let them put a flush machine because it’ll mess it up and put things were they don’t need to be , my Escalade has exactly 212xx miles and tbh I’m scared to do the flush because I don’t want my transmission to get ruined . Do you think I’ll be okay

@youngbreezy5390 it would be safe to do on your own in my opinion. I would be reluctant to have a shop pressurize your tyranny system with high mileage. This method is safe if done correctly. I think some shops you sign a waiver that if they damage your tyranny doing a flush that you can't sue them.

I was also told that if you do a flush on a high mileage vehicle like mine that it could damage the transmission do you think I should be okay ? Cause I was just thinking about draining the fluid than refilling instead of doing a flush

You can gravity drain but some of the old ATF will still be in the tranny. You might only get a 70% change of fluid that way

Hello, should be the same. Always check fluid capacities in your owners manual.

@@mattsawesomeshow Thank you very much..

@@mattsawesomeshow hey Matt changed the oil I'm my Transfer case and front and tear deferentials this afternoon 07 Ext Escalade 233,595 miles and all is well and Thank you again for a Great video..!

@@mrdeanv4414did you use thread sealant on your fill and drain bolts?

@4Runner21 yes I did the same that you used...

Huh

Behind the cigarette lighter...test with a test light or multimeter.

L L

I wonder the same thing, how many quarts of fluid did you need?

Glad it helped!

Torque spec is directly from GM. Also in dozens of forums and in the Haynes manual. Sounds like you cross threaded and stripped the bolt on your own. So because you "snapped" a bolt it's my fault? You need to have some degree of skill to perform these maintenance tasks. Any number of things could have occurred. Faulty torque wrench, wrong torque setting, stripped bolt, cross threaded, ect. It's a "guide" to perform the maintenance. Always check your year, make, model vehicle to check fill capacities, specs prior to performing maintenance, and most importantly, don't blame the content creator for your own mistakes.

@@mattsawesomeshow No cross threading here. I thought there was an issue with the torque wrench not clicking, so I tested it on a bolt under the hood. Everything worked fine. As I’m tightening the bolts, I’m thinking in my head, “damn, this feels like it might be too tight, what’s going on?” That should’ve been the moment I went on Google and got the correct torque specs. So that’s my bad, I should’ve gotten a second opinion. I understand it’s only a guide but I’ve watched dozens of videos on oil pan gasket replacement, timing cover replacement, timing chain replacement, differential install and removal; I just got done with a pretty intense rebuild on my 07 Escalade regarding the aforementioned. No issues whatsoever; not with torque or anything - I barely had to consult other sources. Maybe somehow the bolts are different from what I have with what you have. But I’m very certain these are not supposed to be torqued to 13ft lbs. I’m looking at them and they’re way too small for that. I have found 2-3 sources saying 80, 89, and 106in lb, which converts to about 7-8, maybe 9ft lb. Which in hindsight would’ve been a perfect torque spec. I’m obviously taking responsibility for this. I should’ve known something wasn’t right when I’m applying that much force to make a seal between two metal parts with a rubber gasket in between. But when it comes to future videos and torque specs, please triple check, that you’re telling your viewers accurate information, ESPECIALLY for torque specs. I watch these videos to mainly get tips and general ideas how something is done. When I hear a content creator mention a torque spec, I’m inclined to trust and believe them without verifying. At this point in time, I’m past the initial frustration I was feeling with this video when my bolt snapped. It was the rear corner bolt that I have relatively easy access to without flexing the exhaust pipe out of the way and/or removing the pan entirely. Just need to find my extractor kit now and drill it out. It’s not the end of the world. Again, maybe the issue was truly on my end but from what I can gather, torque wrench (relatively new) is fully operational, there was no cross threading, all bolts were perfectly fine. The best source I found is 89in lb and to torque in a specific sequence.

Good Job. I look forward to reviewing your video tutorial "demonstrating" the maintenance on your KZbin channel someday.

Not needed.

It will certainly help faster draining.

@@mattsawesomeshow thank you for the quick reply. Be sure to shoot your phone number over just in case I have more questions! ;)

Anytime...you're welcome.

Thanks - The pads had uneven wear. Amount of surface remaining doesn't always mean the pads are still good.