Sounds good. Yes, everyone needs a way to double check the cut line. Thanks for sharing and thanks for watching!

Fair point. Initially, you can’t get more accurate than using the freshly cut base. For those who are interested in accuracy to thousandths of an inch, they should consider using the 5-cut method. For the casual user, referencing the freshly cut sled is fine initially, but after any blade changes or adjustments, the cut line on the base could end up being somewhat compromised. That’s why I would recommend using the blade for reference as the manufacturer details in its instructions, but that’s just me. To attain the ultimate in accuracy, you can drive yourself nuts with the many precision tools and methods to get and maintain results in alignments that the average user isn’t going to be concerned with. At any rate, thanks for pointing that out and thanks for watching!

@smorgasbord42 I’m thinking I might have spoken too soon. Being that I hadn’t been doing any woodworking for years (until I recently retired), I’ve still got a lot to learn. When you mentioned the possibility of blade/miter slot misalignment, I did a brief search on the subject and stopped looking once I saw someone using an alignment gauge and figured this was only being done by the most serious woodworkers. I wrote it off as such and suggested the average woodworker wouldn’t be concerned with it. Looking into it further, I see now that you were right about taking it into consideration and it’s something that everyone should be doing for accuracy and safety. It’s not complicated, and an alignment gauge isn’t all that expensive. I even see a lot of folks doing it with just a combination square. Besides ensuring accuracy and cutting down on burn marks, it enhances safety by helping in preventing kick back. So I just wanted to say thanks again for your input, and as a result, I’m thinking I should probably do an update video that covers doing the alignment in relation to the sled, fence and for general purposes. I’ll mention that one of my viewers on the sled video got me headed in the right direction. 😎

Depending on if you include all the features that are included in the Powertec sled, you could spend upwards of $150 or more when you factor in the cost of the sled material, some t-trac, the flip stop, a miter bar, the hardware for making miter cuts, a hold down clamp and possibly a dovetail router bit to to route a slot for the hold down clamp and the miter hardware. And even at that, there’s no settings for exact miter angle cuts. Now obviously you could save some of that if you go cheap on the sled material and forego the manufactured accessories by making do with homemade makeshift features. Lots of variables, it just depends on what you want. Factoring in your time to design and build one with all the features of the Powertec, it’s hard to beat the $119 if you can catch it on sale at that price (IMO).

Thank you, and thanks for watching!

Always happy to hear that the videos are useful! Good luck with your projects and thanks for watching!

@grouponful Thank you! And thanks for watching!

@BrenQ99 Thanks! Not a terribly difficult job, but what a huge difference it makes in the looks of a typical contractor grade mirror installation. Always happy when a DIY project turns out as well as this one did. Thanks for watching!

@elizabethc9832 Thanks! Yeah, it’s a BIG change to a simple tool. It could gum up the works when stopping a bead with older caulk guns. You had to become good at hitting the release lever on the back as you were stopping. This one took care of that. I give it a big thumbs up. Good luck with your projects and thanks for watching!

Yes, thanks for pointing that out for everyone. Although we didn’t extend anything beyond the outside edges of the cuts, we did place sheets of plastic and cardboard directly underneath the cutting lines. Also, due to the give in the carpet/carpet mat, it’s better to place the mirror on a rigid surface for snapping the cut. We just didn’t want to try carrying it down the stairs and our entire 2nd floor is carpeted (outside of the bathrooms). Thanks for watching!

@pra3t0rian Thanks. We bought the Metrie Shiplap at Lowes and I don’t see it any longer online at Lowes. My point is that you would have to research the brand of MDF that you’re going to use to make sure it’s ok for use in a bathroom. I emailed Metrie before purchasing and asked about that issue. Since the Metrie Shiplap that we used was primed and pre painted, the manufacturer said it would be fine as long as the cuts would be painted over and as long as it doesn’t have ongoing contact with standing water. I have seen that some MDF products are made to be moisture resistant. We haven’t had any issues with our installation, but I would suggest doing research first to make sure it’s ok. Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects!

@ awesome thanks.

@jimjudge344 Yes, in order for the fence to fit without any modification to the fence or the table saw, the table depth should be 27”, as it is on my Craftsman. The brackets on the fence are set for this depth. Another consideration is the thickness of the table. My table is 1 1/2” thick (the holes need to be 1 1/4” below the top of the table). If your dimensions aren’t the same, I found an article that describes how modifications were made on a table saw that was shorter in depth and only 1 3/8” thick (link below). I don’t know if it’s worth doing, but looks like it can be done. Just curious, what are the dimensions are on your saw? forum.canadianwoodworking.com/forum/tools/power-tools/vintage-power-tools/39336-installation-of-delta-36-t30-t2-30-fence-on-beaver-34090a-table-saw

@ Excellent! Thanks for the info. I check both boxes so I’m good to go. Next stop… Amazon. No more crappy rip fence!

@@jimjudge344 Great, you’re welcome. Good luck with your upgrade and thanks for watching!

Actually, what we did was we cut the drywall on the walls an inch and a half down from the ceiling which allowed plenty of room to secure the GoBoard into the double 2x4 plate on the top of the wall. This way we didn’t have to deal with a joint at the ceiling. Then we stopped the tile short of the ceiling also since it’s far above where any water will be on the wall. Check out the Johns Manville video (link below) that details using a mesh tape and drywall mud to make the transition. kzbin.info/www/bejne/q6abnWdqqZifmrssi=gNEEhf5WRIzgIPMG

@DIYBoomers is there any reason I could not tile all the way up to the ceiling but still using the method leaving 1.5" drywall down to tape/seal the goboard to drywall? It just looks better IMO for a smaller shower to tile all the way up. I wanted to tile entire wall from shower then out across wall as well. Only goboard about 6-7" away pass tub then transition to drywall. Use mepei ecoprime on drywall then continue tile across wall.

Not a problem at all to take it up to the ceiling. The main reason we left it just short is because that’s where 4 full (large format tiles) came up to. Extending the tile outside of the shower onto the drywall is fine as long as it is not going to get excessively wet. The only caution is adhesion on the drywall, but you have already thought about that. Using the Mapei Eco Prim Grip will prepare the drywall for better adhesion. Sounds like you have it all under control. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project!

I leave 1/8 gaps in the corners and fill with sealant. That sealant needs to get in those corner for waterproofing.

@Robert-hs8yf Absolutely. Good eye! I butted the GoBoard in the corners only to realize my mistake shortly afterwards. What I ended up doing was cutting away an 1/8” gap in the corners with a razor knife so that I could go ahead and seal them. Better late than never.

@centenarioguy I don’t know what box you’re looking at but the 1 1/4” GoBoard fasteners that I used are for use with 1/4”, 1/2” and 5/8” GoBoard Panels. Look at the box in the video, it’s identical to the box in the link below, which is on a Johns Manville webpage. You can see 1/4”, 1/2” and 5/8” on the top of the box and detailed in the Data Sheet that you can click on. www.jm.com/en/goboard/goboard-fasteners/

We used VersaBond LFT from the Home Depot, which is what we used for our tile. LFT stands for Large Format Tile (ours was 24” x 24”). Below is a link for the thinset we used. www.homedepot.com/p/Custom-Building-Products-VersaBond-LFT-50-lb-White-Fast-Setting-Medium-Bed-Mortar-for-Large-Format-Tile-and-Stone-VBLFTMW50/205789804

You’re welcome. Thanks for watching!

Thank you! Most appreciated. Yes, we enjoy doing the work and we always like hearing from viewers that the videos are helpful. Best wishes to you also and thanks for watching!

Hello, doing well, how are you? Good question, generally, caulking is applied to seal and finish edges of trim and such indoors and also used outdoors to seal windows and doors for weatherproofing. Two general types of caulk are silicone and acrylic. Filling the joints between cement board is normally done with mortar and mesh tape. Usually, this is done with the same thinset that is used for setting the tile. Check out two of our videos with the links below. One is using Drip Free Caulk Guns but it shows applying caulk. The other is a video on installing Hardie Backer Board which is a cement board and it shows how to apply the thinset and mesh tape in the joints of the backer board. Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects! Here’s the links. Caulking kzbin.info/www/bejne/l17OY5SZnph0bNU Backer Board Joints kzbin.info/www/bejne/gp3Sc2doaq6Zfck

Thanks! Yes, it can cause a bit of tension at times, but it sounds like you have the solution. Patience and the understanding that you both are working towards the same goal. It’s definitely very satisfying learning how to do the renovations and completing the work. Part of the process is researching to the point that you’re doing the work properly, but it sounds like you guys are doing the homework. An added benefit of doing it yourself is obviously saving a ton of money. And a part of that is something I also really like - getting to keep the tools that are necessary to do the work! The internet is invaluable for DIYers. You can find information on just about anything and no matter what your level of expertise, it can take you to the next level. If you haven’t already found this channel, you might enjoy the renovations that are done on @diywife. Always interested to hear stories like yours with the passion and determination to do the home renovations. Have you considered posting content on your channel documenting your projects? At any rate, thanks for watching and good luck with your renovations!

Thanks! Always glad to hear that the videos are helpful. Also enjoy hearing that you two are enthused and inspired for your renovations. Thanks for watching!

You’re welcome! Yeah, it looks like a tough job, but actually can be done easily with the proper tools and procedure. Thanks for watching!

You’re welcome! And thank you for sharing this information for veterans and service workers. Great price at $250! Good job on repairing the old Jack, it’s always satisfying to fix something rather than getting rid of it!

You’re welcome! I’m always glad to hear that the videos are helpful. No matter what our level of understanding is on a given topic, KZbin videos are out there to help take us to the next level in just about anything you’re interested in. Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects!

Personally, I decided to go with the John Deere brand grease since John Deere recommends using their Multi-Purpose SD Polyurea Grease for heavy-duty protection on grease points like wheel bearings and U-joints. This grease is designed to withstand high temperatures and extreme pressures. If you decide on using another grease, I would suggest looking at the characteristics to see if it is comparable to what the JD grease provides. But that’s just me, you do you. Thanks for watching!

From what I can tell, it seems that John Deere may have changed over to sealed bearings on front wheel hubs on some of their models, and therefore eliminating grease fittings on the wheels. I say that with some hesitation because I couldn’t find a lot of information on the subject. I think documentation generally lags changes in design and I did see a mention in a John Deere operation manual that notes that the S180 does not have fittings on the wheel hubs. I found a discussion online from an S100 owner that also discovered that he had no front wheel fittings. The responses varied from “don’t worry about it if there’s no fittings” to “check with your dealer if you’re concerned it’s a mistake”. Someone mentioned that his dealer had no explanation for it and offered to swap his tractor out for another that did have fittings. From my experience with trying to find information on the correct mulching insert when I bought my S130, I definitely see lagging information, or non existent information. So I would guess that you more than likely have sealed bearings in the wheel hubs, and therefore don’t need to be concerned with it. However, it wouldn’t hurt to contact your dealer to see if they have any information on the topic to be sure. Thanks for watching and I’m sure you’ll be enjoying your new S130!

Great, you’re welcome! Sounds like a good project. I’m sure you’ll be happy with the difference in the old Craftsman! Thanks for watching.

Good deal, I always enjoy finding tools that are a good value. This is one of those tools.

Thanks. That’s not a bad idea, it would insure that it isn’t going anywhere. Thanks for watching!

I would guess that you were very happy with the ease of installation. It’s one of the many products that we were really happy that we decided to use in our bathroom remodel. We highly recommend it! Thanks for watching!

Thanks, always glad to hear that the videos are useful! I agree with your assessment of the drain hose, I have no idea why it’s not more widely used. I’m sure you’ll really be enjoying your new S170! Thanks for watching and you’re welcome.

Thanks. Yeah, hadn’t done much woodworking until I recently retired. Others have also pointed that out and it absolutely makes sense. Have since corrected that procedure. Thanks for watching.

@@DIYBoomers anytime! I subbed and planning to watch more videos this evening

@@woodworkingandepoxy643 Thanks

Always glad to hear that the videos are helpful, thanks for watching!

It’s unanimous!

Thanks! Likewise on yours. Looks like you’re off to a great start with your channel. It takes a while to get traction, but I think your content will eventually pay off. Thanks for watching and good luck!

@@DIYBoomers Thank you! I appreciate it!

You’re welcome! Always glad to hear that the videos are useful. Thanks for watching!

You’re welcome! Wow, I can’t believe the price differences at all the different stores! They all are advertised as MoJack and they all look like the same product. Funny that there is slightly different descriptions though. I got mine at Home Depot and it says MoJack HDL 500. Shockingly, Home Depot is now selling it for $379!!! I can’t say for sure, but it seems like I remember paying $250 for it a little over 2 years ago. Amazon describes it the same as Home Depot (HDL 500) and as you said, sells it for $299.99. I see the Tractor Supply describes it a little differently as it doesn’t say “HDL” but says 550 lbs instead of 500 and advertises it as lifting 26” as opposed to Home Depot listing as lifting 24”. Other than that, it looks identical and they sell it for $239.99. Go figure, I would imagine it’s the same manufacturer making it for different stores like so many other manufacturers do with their products. So if everything is basically equal, I would jump all over the $239.99 price at Tractor Supply if I was buying today! Now for how it’s holding up and other thoughts. I absolutely love it. I use it frequently for sharpening blades and occasionally for other things. However, a few weeks ago when I last sharpened the blades, I did notice a little fluid leaking on the hydraulic cylinder. Not a lot, and it still worked ok, but definitely something that I’m going to have to keep an eye on and like you said, possibly refill it eventually. So thanks for watching and thanks for sharing your price search! Hopefully, others seeing this can also take advantage of the better deal at Tractor Supply!

@@DIYBoomers I plan on going to Tractor Supply this weekend to buy it. You are right, the one at Tractor Supply is black and says it picks up 550 lbs. There's a DeWalt jack at Home Depot looks the same and I think it has the same stats as the MoJack but it's yellow and says DeWalt on it and it's $300. I was just curious about the jack itself. Didn't know if it was a known problem to leak and loose fluid. You may have already seen this video but it's buy a guy that has a channel called "Otto's Small Engine" and the video is called "Mojack Wouldn't Lift Anymore! Here's My Solution" and he's the one that showed how he fixed it. I don't recall him saying that he visually saw fluid on the ground though. You seem very mechanically inclined and you may have already seen the video but that's one of the many video's I looked up about this jack. I do love how it folds up compared to the Harbor Freight kind of jacks. They take up a ton of space even after you break it down. I also like how the arms that come out on the MoJack are stationary. The Harbor Freight ones have pins that adjust to front wheel size but I don't really need that because my Exmark has huge front caster wheels almost the size of the front wheels on your mower. Thanks for replying to me. It helps to talk to people that own products that you want to buy.

Sure, absolutely helps getting info that makes for better purchasing decisions. I have not seen Otto’s video but I will definitely check it out! One thing worth mentioning is that all of the MoJack lifts like the model we are talking about have adjustable tire brackets. You can see in the pictures on the top of the square hollow tube that hold the tire brackets, the heads of the steel pins that secure the tire brackets. In the description of the lift at Tractor Supply, it says that it adjusts for wheel spans from 18.5” to 47.5”, so that’s convenient to have. It also helps with storage as the tire brackets are removable. Thanks again for the heads up on Otto’s video, I will be checking that out!

@@DIYBoomers I didn't say it right when I was talking about adjustments on the arms. I'm trying to figure out how to type it......both of these jacks adjust for the distance between each front tire. The Harbor Freight jack also has a pin that moves (on the end of the arms) to adjust for tire size. So, if you have a smaller zero turn mower with smaller caster wheels for instance, you can adjust that pin at the end of the arms to keep the wheel in that part that lifts the mower up. Now, mine didn't come with any straps that keeps the wheels strapped into that end piece so I would adjust that long pin at the end of each arm to cradle the wheel bigger or smaller depending on the front tire size. I don't see a need for that pin adjustment because most of the tire sizes are roughly the same on the mowers I work on. Hopefully I typed that right and you get what I'm trying to say!

Yep, got it. My bad, I misunderstood. Good luck with your purchase, hopefully you get one that doesn’t end up leaking!

You’re welcome, always glad to hear that the videos are useful! I’m really liking it. It’s so sturdy and accurate the way it slides and locks into place. It transformed the old Craftsman into an upgraded saw! Good luck with your upgrade and thanks for watching!

No, actually. Our bathroom floor was a bit more than 1/4” lower from one end to the other. Just my opinion but I would be surprised to see very many floors that are perfectly level. I don’t know how concerned I’d be over 1/8” here or there, especially since the thinset and the backer board would tend to level it out. The only thing that we had to deal with in the bathroom remodel due to the 1/4” difference was building the vanity. I used my laser level to measure the needed height of the legs in order to compensate for the height difference ensuring that the top was level. Probably better that we did build the vanity ourselves since a stock unit would have ended up with the top not being level. Other than that, there were no other issues for us with the floor not being level. Good luck with your project and thanks for watching!

@@DIYBoomers thank you for your detailed reply. I truly appreciate people like you. I’m the same way. I’m a certified ICC building inspector and retired contractor. I had a stroke over 6 years ago. I’m battling for my life now for almost 13 years. It’s been very difficult. I’ve built track houses and custom homes as well as kitchen bath remodels. Things are just not the same since becoming ill at 44 years old. Thanks again. Many Blessings to you 🙏🏻

@@toddsmith1690 You’re welcome. So sorry to hear about your health issues. Sounds like you’re doing the right thing in staying busy with your building interests. Vitally important to stay involved in things that keep you engaged. Best wishes to you and keep the faith!

Thank you for bringing this to the attention of those that aren’t aware of it. I’ve had the table saw for years but didn’t really use it a lot until I recently retired and have started doing more woodworking. Obviously, the issue with wearing gloves around power cutting tools is that the gloves can get caught in the cutting blades and pull your hand into the blade. Basically, being (an older) newcomer to working, I hadn’t given any thought to that until someone mentioned it awhile back in a comment. You might think that this is something that goes without saying but I’m sure that there are others out there (especially beginners) that don’t give it a thought. I have since followed the advice for not wearing gloves around cutting tools. Thanks again for drawing attention to this and hopefully helping others in bringing awareness to them. And btw, thanks for watching!

Thanks. Always glad to hear that the videos are useful. Yes, always be safe. Thanks for watching!

I thought the S220 only has the MulchControl system that you can open and close from the top of the deck not just a mulch cover. The Accel deep deck on the S220 has more room and better flow of clippings, but part of the MulchControl baffle blocks the flow of clippings when it is open. I kinda feel that contrdicts what the Accel deck is better for. Also, if the Mulchcontrol system gets messed up or broken, I'd need the dealer to replace. The mulch cover I could easily replace. The muclcontrol is $250 and a cover is what like $50 bucks? The mulch blades with the mulchcontrol kit may be shorter also so as not to hit the baffle inside the deck. Yes the S220 has a better V twin cyclonic engine and the deep Accel deck and longer warranty but the internal mulchcontrol I think can be prone to more problems. I was told that I can't get just a mulch cover for an S220.

Hmmmm, I’m not familiar with the S220 but like you say, I think the mulch control system could possibly be more trouble than it’s worth.

@@DIYBoomers I was responding to Poncho502's comment. He mentioned the s220 and I am considering a purchase now. Comparing s220 to s120. My need includes good leaves mulching. Thanks for a great video. Very helpful.

@melsolomon9246 You’re welcome! Yeah, I figured you were commenting on that, I just thought I’d put my 2 cents in on the mechanical cover. Good luck with your decision making and thanks for watching!

Yeah, this modification was a project that I am very happy with. It’s unbelievable the difference it makes in throwing snow. Very nice! Thanks for watching.

You’re welcome! Yeah, the plug is what I have been using for the exact reasons that you are saying. Always glad to hear that the videos are helpful. Thanks for watching.

Thank you and thanks for watching.

It must be true, my wife tells me the same thing.

Thanks. Yeah, I’ve often given thought to trying Gator Blades. Heard a lot of good about them and they look like they’d do a great job. Overall, really happy with the results of mulching leaves. Thanks for watching!

Yeah, we had minor issues with it. The thinset that we used slid around a bit on the GoBoard Sealant in a few spots, but definitely not everywhere. We managed to work it around where it was affected until it covered. I don’t know if some thinsets avoid this better than others but we did experience it a little bit. What should help in resolving that issue is using the GoBoard Seam Fabric in conjunction with the GoBoard Sealant. It wasn’t available when we did our shower but has since become available. Johns Manville markets it as a joint strengthening product that also aids in the thinset bonding. They also say that it isn’t required. I would think that it should help in making the sealant a better surface to adhere to. IMO, I’d rather use the seam fabric than sacrifice the waterproofing of the sealant. Good luck and let us know how it turns out. Thanks for watching!

@@DIYBoomers thank you for the thorough response. I have the seam tape on-hand, but the directions recommend a 1-2” spread to both sides of the seam. In a few mockups, we’ve had issues with the modified thinset adhering to the sealant itself, it seems I’m not the only one. But I agree with you in that thinsetting the seams, even with tape, would sacrifice the waterproofing potential of their sealant. I’ve seen some, for redundancy, put a 2-layer coat of redguard atop the sealant at the seams to assist in thinset adherence. I’m trying to maintain a smooth flooring transition though so my buildup parameters are tight if I want everything to finish flush. Appreciate your input, thanks again

@@victorvek5227 You’re welcome. Yes, it is very important not to get too much buildup also so that you don’t get irregular heights between tiles. Just curious how wide the seam fabric is, wouldn’t it cover the 2 - 4” total spread for the joints? Good luck with your project!

Yes, it is safe. GoBoard and other similar brands are widely used. They are designed for this and I’ve never heard of failure due to the weight of the tile. As long as the fasteners are spaced every 8” apart (as specified for GoBoard), it creates a very strong backer base for the tile.

@DIYBoomers thank you so much for answer

You’re welcome and thanks for watching.

Yeah, I’ve seen it done that way too. Probably faster to do it that way. Do you extend the sealant an inch or two beyond the joint? I see that GoBoard now offers a seam fabric for what they say is an enhancement, but not necessary. It wasn’t available when we installed. I just applied the GoBoard Sealant between the GoBoard and the drywall. For us, these joints are outside of the shower doors and 2” from the ceiling, so shouldn’t be a problem. But you’re probably doing the right thing.

The cup wheel that I picked up at Harbor Freight is a Bauer 4 1/2” Diamond Turbo Cup Wheel (See link below). I didn’t have to use washers. It measures 1 1/4” from the top of the threaded hub to the bottom of the wheel. Also, the dust shroud is a Hercules from Harbor Freight (link also below). www.harborfreight.com/4-12-in-diamond-turbo-cup-wheel-57624.html www.harborfreight.com/4-in-to-5-in-surface-grinding-dust-shroud-57486.html

Wow, if you’re that far away from a Home Depot or Lowes, I’m guessing you also don’t have access locally to a Menards. That’s where we were able to get it.