at 3:50, there is some excess bare copper ground wire beyond the grounding clip. Simply fold the excess bare copper ground wire into the junction box. Then your bare light fixture's ground wire (probably stranded wire) can be wire-nutted (or use a WAGO) to the excess bare copper ground wire (a solid wire) that extends through the clip and that you will fold into the junction box. The grounding clip can be attached to any edge of the metal junction box. The result should be that your light fixture's bare copper ground wire (probably stranded wire) will be connected to the electrical supply wire ground (a solid wire) and the electrical supply wire ground is bonded to the metal junction box (because the metal clip is attached to the edge of the junction box). The electric supply bare ground wire, your light fixture's ground wire, and the junction box itself will all be interconnected. 🙂

Mine was worn out too and I replaced it with a new one. Google this: "Murray Mower Idler Pulley 91179 or 42109" Also search ebay for the same part number and description. There are pages of them listed for sale. Also a parts diagram is at the following link on the pages marked "Motion Drive" www.partsandservice.com/html/Murray/lt/lt38608x92c.html

yes indeed. I think that would work very well. The reason I used pieces of nailing strips is because each piece is loaded with small nails all of which are at the same depth designed to catch the carpet. Since all those small nails were in place on the nailing strips, I simply used those instead of driving new nails through the large plywood piece. Let us know how your suggestion works.

Thank you for your helpful comments. It is very true that modern boxes are equipped with the threaded hole (sometimes with a rounded elevated indentation the size of a dime). I agree that using the modern metal boxes with the threaded ground screw does make a far better bond. For some reason, maybe my family's tendency to squirrel away parts forever, all my metal boxes are "old school" not having the threaded hole for a proper ground screw.

@@takeachanceonme4 Most of the older boxes have holes drilled in the back. Come to think of it I've never seen one that doesn't. Use a tri-tap to thread one and use the green stinger.

You should buy a cheap outlet tester and see if it shows your outlets are properly grounded. There might be a strap behind the mounting screw that grounds it to the metal conduit.

So very happy to hear that you could finish the new installation.

It sounds to me like a problem at the end of the shifter shaft inside the transmission case. The Foote, Dana and Spicer transmissions are very much the same in design. You might want to search the many youtube videos under the search words Foote, Dana or Spicer transmissions. Just for example, here is one that might help. Within the video is some info on the shifter plate, spring loaded balls, and the need for lubrication. Perhaps you are experiencing a problem with any one or more of those items? kzbin.info/www/bejne/aKeZgnaLic56l5o

@@takeachanceonme4 thanks. I watched the video suggested. I'm afraid all that is beyond my capabilities. I was sure hoping it would be an easy fix. I believe I have already eliminated those! I just don't know if I can get into the transaxle. Thanks for your time and advice.

@@kimatkinson5162 at 22:55 in that video i posted in my response to you yesterday, he shows two flat head screw adjustments next to the shifter rod. Is it possible that adjusting those screws might bring the gears to shift once again?

@@takeachanceonme4 thanks. I will see about that. Keeping my fingers crossed

@@kimatkinson5162 this video shows the shifter shaft and the shifter plate located inside the transmission case. kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3jUdWCHjdiirqs It gives you a good idea as to what is inside the case. Always a good idea to keep the shaft well lubricated. Perhaps a healthy dose (or 3) of penetrating oil (like wd-40) applied where the shaft enters the transmission case. A lot of people, including me, have binding requiring a lot of force to change gears. In my case and in the case of the video above, lubrication of the gear shifting shaft is critical to its easy operation. As you work the shaft back and forth, make sure the shaft itself is moving clockwise and counterclockwise, and not just the handle. kzbin.info/www/bejne/j3jUdWCHjdiirqs

thanks for watching. I really liked that car; but i sold it a few years ago and sort of regret it because i did like it so much. The tricky part was disconnecting the speedometer.

I really liked the car; was in tip top running order; but sadly sold it. It was a wonderful car

@@takeachanceonme4 I am never selling mine. Even with everything that goes wrong, it is still the cheapest, and best car I have owned. Just remade the tailgate harness. Works fabulous!

that is true what you said Barry; so please be careful not to apply destructive forces; just easy bumps

yep clogging shoes

I can't disagree with you on that point. Thanks for your comment.

glad you found this video and glad you were able to use your new clips

There's a rubber plug on top. Cut the grease with heavy weight oil an paddle mix it. With a little effort you should be able to inject it down the hole on top of transmission

@@trollerrollerrollercoaster8391 no plug

@@joerico9461 whoever engineered a transaxle with no grease input port should be decked. That's like the newer transmissions on a car with no dipstick. Just a relief bolt.

@@trollerrollerrollercoaster8391 I hear ya

I agree with you. I, too, believe a better bond would result if one used a grounding screw. I have found that some of the older (decades ago) metal boxes, that were not properly grounded when installed, did not have the typical preformed pressed metal grounding point (the currently sold metal boxes usually (but not all) have a preformed pressed metal grounding point designed for a grounding screw. For such older metal boxes missing the grounding point, I use the clips illustrated in the KZbin above.

They will both equally bond the ground safely. Not all boxes have a ground hole, and not all installations will tolerate a ground screw sticking out the back of the box. I've also found ground screws stripped and not doing much bonding. Feel safe with either, properly installed.

:-)

Yes to both. I drained the gas by removing the rubber fuel hose from the carb and lettting the gas flow into a container. The battery was removed too. It wouldnt hurt to block the front end firmly so that the up-ended rear of the mower doesn't wag left or right and fall over.

@@takeachanceonme4 thanks so much. I recently raised the front end up and tied to my workshop joist. This was after I removed the 14.5hp B&S to replace the sump gasket and oil seal. While up I took several videos but unfortunately did not clean off the transaxle, levers, springs, etc - just the area around where the engine sits - top and bottom of frame. My gut says it has to be something simple. I already discussed with lawn repair shop and he said he could not guarantee he could fix it or get parts. At a minimum it will be $50-$60 to transport to and from so I wanted to do everything I could to make it better. Alternative is to run after 6 mins until it stops working and buy a new mower. At 72 years old I really don’t want to do that. Thanks again, Ski

@@RogerASkiVideo Sorry to take so long to get back to you. I was traveling and finally got back home. Unfortunately I don't have any experience or suggestions regarding the hydrostatic tranny. However this link might help: www.mytractorforum.com/threads/1996-murray-with-spicer-4900-3-093264-transaxle.1347867/ and this link by "Taryl Fixes All" may be of some use: kzbin.info/www/bejne/ql67pYSmfchmiZI Skip the first 4 minutes of Taryl's link, because he does a little bit of acting before he gets to the repair stuff. I find Taryl's "how to" are very informative and reliable. He has a broad range of small engine postings and he also opened up a hydrostatic a few months ago and posted the step by step and piece by piece process. kzbin.info/www/bejne/hISZYoSmh7-XopY It's a one hour long video I did find a number of additional links regarding the Spicer hydrostatics by googling "Spicer Hydrostatic" , one or more of which may be of use to you. Good luck to you and let me know what you found out. By the way, I agree with you that this fix should be well within the scope of your ability. If push comes to shove, go to one or several lawnmower graveyards and pull a replacement tranny off one of the cast offs at the graveyard. Large cities and most states have lawnmower graveyards where you can show up with some tools and pull your own. Also check ebay for used trannies of the same model. Let us know how your problem is resolved!

@@takeachanceonme4 thanks for your reply. I have watched Taryl’s videos. The one on disassembling the trans was excellent. Probably more than I can handle. Maybe if I was younger and healthier! The first link you provided is actually mine. It was the start of the movement issue. My next attempts will be remove deck and drive belt. Measure the belt and see if actually 1/2” x 86”. If not I will go to mower repair shop and buy a Murray belt. Then install belt and recheck all linkages and make sure there is a gap in slot of clutch pedal. 3/8” to 1/2” - if not adjust clutch rod nut. While the belt is off inspect clutch rod lever to make sure moves properly. Other than that we’ll see. Have a delay right now due to weather and preparing taxes! Thank goodness the grass doesn’t need mowing! haha I will post progress. Thanks again, Ski

I had the same problem. The gear shifter rod would not budge inside the transmission case. This is, the rod that, if starting in neutral, you rotate the shifter counter clockwise and the gears change from N to 1 to 2 to 3 and to 4. Turn it clockwise from 4 to 3 to 2 to 1 to Neutral and finally to Reverse. Over the years, the shifter rod became stiffer and stiffer until it finally reached the point that I could no longer shift gears at all (and of course the rear wheels would be locked in whatever gear they happened to be in before the freeze up.). In my situation, the shifter rod that drops into the transmission case was simply bone dry and a bit corroded along the rod shaft inside the transmission case. All I had to do was spray some penetrating oil down the shaft. Really soak the shaft over a period of a few hours with the hope that a little of that lubricant will find its way down the shaft and inside the transmission case. Once a few drops of lubricant make it down the shaft, work the shifter back and forth until the rod becomes easier and easier to rotate clockwise and counterclockwise. After a few minutes with a few drops of penetrating oil, the shifter became very easy to change gears and any hard shifting and locked wheel symptoms should disappear. Your transmission is probably a Foote or a Peerless. Look up on youtube more video's that focus on servicing the Foote or Peerless riding mower transmissions. Both are nearly identical in operation and parts. Look at this at 3:50 minutes into the video. kzbin.info/www/bejne/opewnn-mf9R8r5I You will see the transmission gear shifting rod at the other end of the vice grips. It rotates counterclockwise and clockwise from N to 4th and N to reverse. You do NOT need to take the tranny out of the mower to do this. Just reach under the seat or flip the lawnmower on its side so you can get access to the gear shifting rod. Then lube it up real good and work that rod slowly at first , left and right, until it loosens up. That should fix your stuck rod. Also make sure your trnasmission case has grease or oil in it. Use grease/oil with a viscosity of 00 or 000 (it's a milk shake thick grease/oil; or use at least 90 Weight gear oil (which could slowly leak out over a years time)

Actually, FIRST make sure the parking/emergency brake caliper and brake caliper pad are not engaged in the activated parking brake mode. That is, make sure the parking brake is released! Otherwise the tires will be locked from turning!

​@@takeachanceonme4 Thank you very much for your reply and help. The parking brake seems to be free, the lever under the seat doesn't seem to be doing much is sorta feels loose no friction, tension or pulling like it's not connected to anything, guess maybe I should pull the battery out or crawl underneath while someone works the rod/lever while I look see what it's doing......any other suggestions??

@@catcndu Only suggestion I can think of is to access the transmission (flip the entire mower on its side ; or do whatever you might need to do to get access to the shifting rods and links and examine each link for functionality. You might try clamping onto the transmission gear shifting rod (where it exits the transmission case) with a pair of vice grips. Rotate the gear shifting rod with the vice grips to hopefully feel some resistance or gather some sense that the gears are shifting. be sure the rear tires are off the ground; because you might want to spin the tires back and forth (such as for example when you find Neutral -- the wheels should freewheel spin) to increase the chances that you will find Neutral. If there is no resistance at all and nothing is happening to indicate that the gears are shifting, then you might have to take off the transmission, crack open its case, and see if something in the transmission case is broken. If you do crack the case open, pay complete attention to the position of each gear, each spacer, each thrust washer, and each bearing. If any of those parts are not reassembled in proper place, the transmission will never work again. The process of cracking open the two halves of the case should be done with the greatest of care and with complete and exact documentation of where every part inside the case belongs. One misplaced part will end in a failed rebuild. When the two halves come apart be sure to rinse the black sludgy grease and oil until you can finally see all the washers, bearings, spacers etc so that you can keep track of which one goes where. I have found NO exploded views that completely indicate which piece belongs where. So you will find yourself on your own if you don't keep track of which part goes where and in what order.

Hope this helps: Here is a link to an exploded view and a parts list that include the Murray Parking Brake parts and linkage. Click on the individual buttons marked "Motion Drive" for the exploded view and the parts list. Parts numbered 5, 6, 7, 8, 16 & 17 appear to be the parking brake parts and the exploded view shows the positioning. www.partsandservice.com/html/Murray/lt/lt38608x92c.html

Thanks for your reply and link. Part number 16 is the issue I think. When I videoed with the brake pedal all the way in I can see #16 move up and down when pulling up on the lever on the side. I have to look closer to see if there is a notch at the end of #16 to hold and engage the mower body slot when pedal is released. Something is keeping #16 from holding. Thanks again and will keep you updated in case this happens to you. Ski