I have the same issue

@@suzukiiceHi I thought i had the DRL problem fixed but it quit the next day. By re-soldering the circuit board my high beams have been working so this video helped me. I haven't done any more research on this yet

The white looking screw is that a allen key

The DRL Module should be the same but in another location. The repair is always the solder joints on the big relays.

I'm guessing you wouldn't know where that is? I look anywhere I could find online and there was nothing about the module, the dealer doesn't even know so I'm assuming it's a relay thingy. Idk what it's called

@@sh4rp935 As shown in my video the DRL - Daytime Running Light module is inside a grey plastic box. DRL module location for 2001 - 2005 Honda Civic and 2001 - 2006 Acura is on driver side high under dash (higher than steering column) between door and brake pedal. All you can see is the wire harness block hanging down, best to see module from gas pedal up across towards door. The DRL module grey plastic box is mounted to a slide tab but can be very tight to remove and remount, in my video disconnecting the wire harness block and prying open the circuit board was easier for Honda.

Press the A/C button again to turn off green light and compressor will stop if you enabled this option. As stated by others its always good to run the A/C normally to keep the oil flowing in the compressor.

Honda 2001 to 2005 Wiper size for driver side = 21 inch // passenger side = 19 inch max (17 or 18 works)

Yes it does, first its in a different location, consult the manual. The DRL Module itself is slightly smaller and uses more power but the repair is identical.

@@easydiyrepair5657 Thank you, it is exactly the answer I was looking for. The reason I asked was not to repair the cold joints to the relays on the module, but to find out whether LED High Beams would work or could be made to work in DRL mode on my 2004 Civic in conjunction with LED Headlights and your answer seems to confirm that they cannot. It turns out that from the 2006 model year, you can acquire plug-in LED driver modules that will make the High Beam LEDs work as a DRL using PWM - the trick is that they require 12V to exist and be available for the LED bulb to work, essentially by increasing the frequency so that the LEDs won't flash or strobe. OTOH, these module simply don't work if the DRL puts high beams in series or feeds low voltage to the headlight using resistors for DRL use, like the older generation DRL seems to operate at. if I could secure a 7th gen DRL module schematic, I could probably figure out a modification that would allow use of a PWM module with the high beams to light them up at reduced intensity for DRL use, but my hunt for a schematic has been unsuccessful (If you had any idea where to look for that schematic, I'd appreciate a tip!) In the meantime, I've devised a klutz that may well in the end be the only practical solution: to forgo the high beams for DRL and use the position/turn bulbs instead, replacing them with high power LED switchbacks, that would be powered by a relay controlled by the DRL indicator circuit: In essence, the DRL fault indicator circuit would be used to actuate a relay that would power the front white LEDs of the turn signal/position switchbacks replacing the original dual filament amber bulb. My only problem now is to find a Switchback LED that has the proper configuration for the existing reflector, sufficient intensity for DRL use and the reliability and proper cooling required for an LED that will be on at all times...

interesting modification you have planned, if you create a video let me know. I wonder if after market accent LEDs might fit inside the Lens housing?

@@easydiyrepair5657 I've decided not to install anything that would require unsealing the housing - I've done it once (in an oven) and almost destroyed it, so I'm not too keen trying again! The DRL switchback modification is quite simple in comparison, the 2004 Civic uses an 1057 bulb as a park/direction bulb so that should be no problem. You'd have to cut off the existing park wire and power the white LED directly from a relay powered up by the DRL dash light circuit coming out of the DRL relay. If the schematic I managed to find is the correct one, it's connection 9 on the DRL module and K7 of the fuse/relay box nearby. Cutting the existing white/blue wire on DRL 9 and yellow on K7 would disconnect the DRL dash light so it wouldn't be bother you anymore. I'll get to it when the weather gets better, winter's been brutal here in the Great White North (I don't have a garage).

DRL module reduces voltage to High Beam bulbs, repairing the module doesn't draw much power and the module is fused preventing short circuits... test power load by starting vehicle with DRL Module unplugged... just bad luck your alternator complained, battery was probably low.

also try to avoid parking under Pine or Cedar trees dropping crud into air vent, especially in British Columbia.

Most vehicles use air conditioning compressor to run Defrost. If your vehicle is older and battery is weak having the option to disable the heavy compressor load is excellent. I use this often.