Good lord that is awful. I've been building do it yourself flat-pack furniture for 40 years, both for work and home, and I've never seen anything worse than this. It's not you, it's them.

Hi, can i know measurement of Block where you have the hands for play? Dimensions? I think high is about 10cm and the rest? Very thanks.

Thank you for this video. The absolutely horrendous quality of that control panel tells me I will never purchase anything from that company.

Nice

😃👍👍👍nice

I would suggest learning to soldier and also use some shrink tubing with it. It will make your connections more secure.

I have done 5 cabinets from GRS and had nothing but great service and EVERY cabinet came out perfect. Last one I did is here. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rZ-qmX9sitJqqrM

Does the iPac work with an Xbox Series X Console? Im trying to build a Xbox Series X Arcade.

Does the iPac work with an Xbox Series X Console? Im trying to build a Xbox Series X Arcade.

Nothing better than buying an arcade machine with limited instructions!!!!! Like playing a ps4 game without a manual!!!!! I had a manual back in 85 for karate champ on nes! Did i read it!?????? Hell No!!!!!

69th like. Lol. Sorry not sorry.

Is there a video for the mini pac setup?

Thank you! I see that you have a hole cut for coin slots. Do you have another video showing how to wire that?

Purchased this from GRS back in September. Damaged parts, stuff missing, and things not how I asked. They were replying to me up until Nov 10th then won't reply to my emails or return any phone calls.

These clowns haven't sent me over half my order and stopped replying to my emails or ever answering any calls

Numerous other Tuber build/reviews have noted issues with GRS poor quality control for accessory (brackets) hole positions, incomplete/missing drilled holes, poor fit (cut length of console walls), and weak overall construction with cam-lock and 1/2" MDF strength. Addition of extra corner brace brackets were added to strengthen sturdiness when playing rambunctiously. Customer service reported to be taxing. Lucky were opted for the DIY assembly as others noted the rushed sloppy "professional" builds that required fixing. I believe they do have a fabulous vinyl printer system method, but many other quirks that make life "interesting". They are built for a cost (affordable/cheap) and little wiggle room after words.

2:50 Green is not for the green buttons, and blue is not for the blue buttons. You are make life hard. A wire harness uses different colour wires to go to different terminal connections. Look inside your car, wire looms are colour coded. Get 7 different colour wire 26 AWG stranded. Choose colour for buttons 1-6. Loom in many zip ties, use solid core wire (22-24 AWG or string with a butchers tie), spiral wrap, braided (mesh) cable sleeve, or heat shrink tubing.

Yo, the washers go under the nuts to spread the load and not crack the TB case. The bolts are carriage bolts and are tamper proof from the top and must have a square locking pattern pulled into the wood.

0:39 GRS is grounding the Trackball (static discharge) to a joystick plate which is screwed to a MDF sheet. Last time I looked that is called not grounding. Correct - do not connect it to your negative terminals (Gnd) as you don't want a few thousand volts going through your electronics. If the case has a real case ground, wired to the ground plug then that is where it should go. Arcade machines were zapped by ingenious snot-head teens trying to get a free play by forcing a reboot of a machine. It is the same as rubbing amber on cat fur, spinning a plastic ball could steal electrons from you and build a static charge. Remember as a kid wearing a large polyester winter coat and you touched a light switch with a scratched screw on the face-plate and got shocked, that is called grounding.

11:01 Better option use a conductivity tester on a DMM (beep it out) to pre-test for the common and for each switch. Switch NO output will close to the common when moved towards direction. Note: harness exit direction changes pin usage for up/down/left/right switches. See my big comment below for orientation and pin direction used. All Sanwa and Seimitsu original and clone joystick pin headers will be identical layout. I see that you rotated Yellow joystick player-4 180°. Quick Guide upper left diagram.

2:11 In the Quick Guide use the lower right diagram. The quick guide is for fightsticks looking into box bottom rotated 180° or flipped over left to right (joystick on left, buttons on right)

JST XH (2.50mm) 5-pin male sockets are hard to find that are not headers. You should try DuPont 5-pin in kits for 0.04mm x 4 = 0.16mm (0.006") out overall. DuPonts do have play in male pin harness. Marrette's look a little clunky.

Sanwa/Seimitsu Harness Layout have same pin/switch sequences but with inverted circuit boards, switches and pin headers, to further confuse the issue the manufactures opted to use same five coloured wires but only keep pin two using the same wire colour in sequence. Solution: find the common or ground pin (note: Gnd is not always common but Zero Delay boards use common +5V), call it pin 1 or Gnd and all other pins 2 thru 5. Sanwa Standard configuration from factory with 5-pin header exiting to lower right viewed from top of joystick. Wire harness with lock flange facing out (bottom of joystick), Gnd always on outside edge (centre Seimitsu). Sanwa and Seimitsu colour sequences differ with only pin 2 using same green colour from Gnd pin orientation. Sanwa wire harness colour sequence: Gnd-Black, 2-Green, 3-Yellow, 4-Orange, 5-Red. Seimitsu wire harness colour sequence: Gnd-Orange, 2-Green, 3-Black, 4-Red, 5-Yellow. The colour sequence in the harness is fixed, there are two options. Option 1: change colour going to the I-PAC up/down/left/right wire terminal. Option 2: switch sockets in the harness, moving colour to new position which keeps direction to colour code. (Option 2 is required for Zero Delay 5-pin socket connection - cross over in wire harness). Example colour code for standard and 180° header orientation from top of joystick (Sanwa). Gnd ◄ ► ▼ ▲ - G 2 3 4 5 - Lower Right (Std) - Black, L-Green, R-Yellow, D-Orange, U-Red Gnd ► ◄ ▲ ▼ - G 3 2 5 4 - Upper Left (180°) - Black, R-Green, L-Yellow, U-Orange, D-Red Sanwa/Seimitsu Harness Layout-viewed from top of joystick Pin Direction/Pin# Change/Orientation of plug Gnd ◄ ► ▼ ▲ - G 2 3 4 5 - Lower Right (Std) Gnd ▲ ▼ ◄ ► - G 5 4 2 3 - Bottom Left (90°) Gnd ► ◄ ▲ ▼ - G 3 2 5 4 - Upper Left (180°) Gnd ▼ ▲ ► ◄ - G 4 5 3 2 - Top Right (270°)

Moral of this story is you're better off building your own. 1000% what I'm doing

Good job man, it looks great

Where did you get the long 5 pin joystick wire

very valuable info, thank you for making this

What kind of trackball are you using? Great set up

What would you do now, having done a few different methods, to wire up a 4 player set up to a pc? Could you guide me on where you get the buttons kit, card, electronics for a pc setup?

You pay good money for those cabinets, but yet they can't even get holes right.

I actually bought one of those atlegends arcade legends ultimates, and use it as a base to make an arcade cabinet. Costs about 1/3 of what this does, and is actually already a working machine. Only downside is you can't quite fit a 32" display in it. But for 1/2 the cost of just this empty shell after all the modifications to turn it into a quality mame cab it was a no brainer.

Wow, thanks so much for posting this. I was definitely about to get one but after seeing this I'll pass. On another vid they were talking about the crazy customer service lady, but I guess it's their entire culture including manufacturing. Shame since such a convenient solution.

When you spend so much money on these cabinets, they at least shouled put the holes in the right place.

I just recently got a kit in from GSR that I will be assembling as soon as I get my buttons, joysticks and wiring in. Mine is a mid-sized pedestal so not nearly as complex as yours. We’re your joysticks installed by just wood screws screwed into a small pilot hole, or did you have to do threaded brass inserts with a threaded bolt? The reason I ask is in some videos I see people using the brass inserts, but on my control panel I just see small shallow pilot holes that look like they would be for wood screws. If yours were installed with just screws, do they seem sturdy and robust? Thanks!

Hi, I watched all the videos. Great job and thank you for doing this. This year I would like to do a pedestal setup from game room solutions with an IPAC4 but with a PC. This will help me a ton! Questions. Are the joysticks, buttons, trackball and IPAC4 from game room solutions or just the control panel wood kit? If they all are from game room solutions did you upgrade to the Sanwa? Are the buttons good? Are there enough inputs to hook up a spinner and the admin buttons on the IPAC4? Sorry for all the questions. Just want to make sure I got everything right. Thanks!

Here's a demonstration with a Brooks emulator adapter. I suggest Titan 1 tho because it works on everything out there. You have IPAC so only one player will work. If you had 4 zero delay encoders paired with 4 emulator devices. You can play on anything. I have IPAC as well so I'm stuck using one player on real game consoles. kzbin.info/www/bejne/l2KQmWOYnNKFbtk

Invest in a Titan 1 if you wanna use real game consoles with it. This method will only let you use one Joystick 🕹️ but it's still cool. When you figure out how to switch between dinput and xinput. Convert the Joysticks into dinput. Stick the Titan 1 dongle inside the game console you wanna use. Stick the program cord that came with the Titan 1 inside the PC. Open the Gtuner software for the Titan 1 after you switched the joystick into dinput mode. Go to tools inside Gtuner. Look for "output devices" pick the game console you're trying to connect the arcade to. When you picked your output method. Go to "Max Aim DI". This will detect your IPAC. Go to Direct Input to look for your IPAC that transformed into a game controller. When you find the correct controller. Map the buttons with the layout. When you map each button make sure you pick "direct input catch" all buttons 1 by 1 like this. When you mapped every button you can now use your arcade system on the game console. Only one player will work but it's still cool.

How is the sturdiness of the machine? Does it feel solid?

Aren't you supposed to ground everything first? What if there is static electricity?

Thanks for this video. I was going to get the same cabinet. I had all my options picked from their site but before I pulled the trigger I found your video. You talked me right out of dealing with GRS. I like the design though so I will take some inspiration from your video and build my own cabinet. Graphics being upside down and sending the wrong replacement pieces is inexcusable. Telling you to just deal with the broken bottom piece is pretty gross too. Was your delivery insured? If so that’s really gross. I think you are a saint for you patients in this build. I would have lost it more than once.

The customer service is bad

Great video. I was gonna purchase a set of parts but after this sorry to say piss poor kit I'll make my own at least then I can blame myself 😉😂

Great job! Thank you for sharing your experience. Gives me something to think about regarding buying vs fabrication.

how much this cost pal

Thank you for this video. I considered going with GRS because their kits are relatively cheap compared to others but now it's apparent they are cheap for a reason. I'm leaning towards Northcoast Customs now.

that is an insane amount of parts. i have ikea ptsd not sure i could do this.

what the sofware used?

Great camera work BTW. ^_^

Thanks for the Vid this whole series of vids has made me believe in myself enough to buy and build one for myself. TY BTW Love the left and right mouse button idea I have thought about using the USB option for light guns.

What front end are you going to use? I’m building a big box computer now