That R not support to be there!

Great video,were do you get the schematics card from.what website. Amazing and thankyou

My head doesn’t want to rotate all the way. It gets stuck. Any suggestions. Thanks for the rest of the video. I was able to change the belt

Nice job. Turned out great.

Have clear memories of my late brother,who was in the merchant navy,coming back from Japan with much hifi over the years,wonderful silver fronted Pioneer among the best.He also came home with a system,a midi sized top of range version of this,comprising amp,cassette deck and fancy digital tuner/timer,but he didn't buy the cool slide out turntable unfortunately.Was the envy of my schoolmates,as it wasn't available in the UK at the time.

Great job on the repair... In my collection I usually collect Pioneer and panasonic honestly I love the old panasonic 8 track players the only company that never used a rubber belt but a fiberglass reinforce belt just clean the heads and off they go again

Just bought this casette player as an extra for my 610 amplifier and tuner. What amazes me (besides the timeless looks) is the quality feel of these machines. Even the plastic front flap feels like a big chunk of bullit proof plastic.

Did you check the relay contacts. If they are dirty that may be creating the issue.

Underneath the laser assembly and the white piece of plastic is a small anti-vibration spring .... You should reposition that spring or you'll get an annoying skip in the sound of the player .... Good video ! I am an engineer of Pioneer Electronics Europe Service Dept./// After a lens repositioning you should realign the tangential adjustment and the maximum grating signal for an optimal player joy. See the Service Manual for that adjustment(s). For driving the laserblock to the back just use the test mode of the player. This counts for ALL Pioneer CD-players b.t.w.

Excellent video!!!!

I'm guessing the worm gear is for the counter.

23:35 Playing a Maxell XLII-S hi-bias cassette, but you have the tape EQ set for LH instead of CrO2.

I've jsut stopped watching at the 30 second mark to say two things... I was the southern Cal regional warranty service center for NAD and 30 pounds is NOT a "monster amp". and second, the first thing I always checked for on NAD as well as other products that had a Pre-out / Main-in loop was to make sure the jumpers were installed. This is not the case here... OK, now I will continue to watch the video. I always enjoy watching amateurs (trying to) repair(ing) electronics!

I'm guessing the brake pads were either felt like you said or cork.

Great job! Love these old Yammys!

It is a little late, but try not to use simple oil to lube a plastic or rubber. It leads to transforming plastic or rubber into goo. Use silicon oil.

What a great looking deck. So easy to work on too. Hope I can come across one like it soon

Nice job ! I have this casette deck and i have a little problem. Has no sound , no vu meters signal . i look inside and there 4 transistors missing on the main board and a resistor is burn to crisp. I dont know what models are those transistors and what value that resistos has. Can you help me with that ?

I have the same one but can't get it to spin

That isn't a handle on the back, it's an antenna.

My first tape player was a 8 track in my 1966 galaxy 500 but your right cassette is much better as a recording media im a fan of DAT now

That was a sack spiders sleeping house

Boy, I wish I had your skills. Thanks for sharing such an informative video.

cia 19 85 nfl

MIKE CAOPHONY 😀🤑

good job buddy!

It's Nakamichis (plural), not Nahamichi's (possessive case). English may not be your first language. 😀

Quite impressive with how little knowledge you were able to fix the amp!

Great video. I just purchased a AKA M9 to restore and will reference your video as I proceed. I do have a question. When I remove the back I see two slots where cards were removed. Can you tell me what those two cards are so I con look for replacements?? Thank you..

thank god for autohotkey, i made a script to put an input into the spacebar every 10 milliseconds i was holding it down

They were very common when I was in high school in the late 70s.

The flat motors are called direct drive motors. Sony DD walkmans have that and some turntables have that too (instead of belt drive). I'm just surprised to see dedicated direct drive motors for each spindle.

Very useful vid! Do you know what motor can fit for a replacement? Looks like it's a 6VDC, 2200 RPM, CW, but in my C-205 is labeled with a Marantz part code and I can't find the exact match with Mabuchi or Matsushita. Thanks a lot for your work, not easy at all to find good vids about this model.

You REALLY should use JIS screwdrivers.

Much chunkiness and 1980s buttons. Love it.

I spy Herb Alpert's "Whipped Cream and Other Delights"....very nice! Great video man, I enjoyed it very much, thank you!

great thanks!

Interesting how yours needed so much mechanical work. Mine needed not that much at all, apart from the usual belts, cleaning and a new pinch roller. Came to me in very good condition and with very low hours, likely stuffed down the bottom of a linen cupboard for 40 years until the original owner died. However the electronic side needed serious work, many of the capacitors (incl for the motor) were weak and needed replacing and major work was needed on the record / replay switch. Now works perfectly. kzbin.info/www/bejne/pn3ai4V6h5h8l6c

My brother had the version (TC560 instead of TC560D) which had the speakers and built in amp. My only issue with it was the slow rewind and "fast" forward functions. Very good specs, especially when we used the Sony SLH-180 low noise tape.

You never learn unless you do it. You're very tenacious. Glad you got it going. It sounds great, too.

I used 8 track recording when I was a kid and I still have an Olson Electronics deck from 1974 that still works. Realistically (no pun intended), when it changed programs on a tape that you made continuously, there would be about a 1 to 2 second bit of mostly silence that actually sounded like a dropout. As far as sounding better than a cassette, just like anything else, it's subjective. If you have a really good cassette deck, chances are that would sound better than the 8 track. To me the 8 track doesn't quite have the dynamics that other formats do. I think the biggest hindrance is the tape formulation. They never really improved the tape formulation by much but the cassette did improve immensely. The 8 track tape moves at 3.75 inches per second and the cassette is half that speed at 1.875 inches per second. I believe the track width is exactly the same, if not very close. The cassette tape is 1/8 inch wide and the 8 track tape is 1/4 inch wide. The cassette utilizes 4 discreet tracks and the 8 track utilizes 8 discreet tracks. You did an incredible job on the repair of it. 1979 was definitely a long time ago, but I still remember it. I hope you get many years of enjoyment out of it.

Tell me what the bodge (fix) was, changing a couple resistors!??

The word for a 'temporary fix' is a bodge, a cludge, dodgy, she'll be right, good enuf, wok n roll, hot pockets, a Spinal Tap reference, enjoy Mr NAD. PS a little light oil on the chassis, rear incl inputs wiped off with a cloth stops degradation from oxidation. I oil up my bike, electronics and even myself, olive oil, sorbolene, sewing machine oil 🛢️ cheers.

As U probably now know the bridged connections on the rear panel seperate the pre and power amps. It's so you can get access to pre out and power in separately. You may pre out to a different / larger power amp. You may just want to utilise the power amp from a different pre amp source eg external phono pre amp, any line output. After all it's an integrated amp, meaning both the pre and power amps are in the same box. Thirdly, as U suggested, U may want to do some signal processing inline between the pre out and power in. Also gives you access to the pre out, like tape monitoring, eg taking it into a mixer or PC software etc. A good feature all NAD integrateds have that I have seen. The new NAD stuff now uses smaller links that are insulated. Back to the video, cheers.

Always clean the surface of the flywheel and the driving pulley when putting in a new belt.

Very interesting, thank you

Damping cylinder: you need to clean it and grease it with tubing o-ring silicone grease. The swing arm usually drives the take up reel. The leaf foil springs seem to actually be clutch pressure plates, the hubs should have integrated slipping clutches. I've never taken one completely apart except I own one which is in my up for sale inventory. If you ever lose one of those plastic clips it can be a good idea to save a suitable plastic sheet and get some punching tools: you drill a hole of a desired size in your plastic sheet and punch a disc around it. I've come to the conclusion it is the best way to deal with it, there are too many sizes and no parts supplier that I know of. The electronics is very complete and cleanly laid out, the sound is very pleasant must be due to their tweaking of the EQ... not sure it is accurate but definitely Nakamichi.

About oiling the pinch roller pins: they were not lubricated from the factory. The combination of materials make it already a dry bushing itself as it was also the case with several examples of dry plastic/metal couplings e.g. rear capstan shaft. If you oil it you need a very small amount to seep in. Mineral oil while it can stay is not suitable for long term application on plastics, Ideally you could grease it and it could be very appropriate since it could handle up to 500 grams but in the long run it will dry up and tend to jam the bearing. It could technically benefit from high quality PAO lithium grease but if one spends 15 bucks on a cassette decks I highly doubt that is on the list.

They both look amazing on you Beautiful Lady!❤ I prefer the second bra. Gorgeous in both!❤ One without the lace really looks more comfortable!❤ Piont being you look Gorgeous in any bra!❤ Thanks Gill!❤

Are you coming back w/ new videos? I enjoy your channel.