sounds like a bad brake master cylinder

@@MariusFourie so i have to replace the whole assembly? Accumulator included??

Yes. Leaking egr cooler will give same symptoms as blown headgasket.

The sensors are in the unit. You have to change the whole unit unfortunately.

yes. A big socket works well. Take it slow

@MariusFourie Ok, thanks, Marius.

Could be electric motor on pump or unit itself. You will have to troubleshoot

replace with new or used part. kzbin.info/www/bejne/aGevm4qqprhpb6c&lc=Ugy6mNEIrVJJiWNxNFB4AaABAg

No, it's not supposed to do that

Try Autosport in East London. They gave me good service.

Hi. No idea. Sorry

Good luck!

probably a failing master cylinder seal.

@@MariusFourie thanks is this an easy fix or do I need to replace the master cylinder

When I search brake master cylinder it comes up with the brake master cylinder accumulator will replacing this fix the problem do u think

Thanks for watching

Factory standard but it is removeable.

Thanks I will have to check mine to see if its there.

It was already broken. That is why I didn't take care or follow procedure

Check fluid level. Yours is likely accumulator. swap that first.

Try your local scrap yard

www(dot)mm4x4(dot)com(dot)au

Thank you. They don't do the 2001 model.

Glad I could help!

Ja. 265 65 17 AT bande

ignition off. pump brake pedal fourty times. unscrew. make sure the rod and spring doesn't fall out and get lost. simple.

Glad it was helpful!

You'll have to try your local breaker yards

swap out the accumulator or test with friend by swapping out. That's the cheapest check.

@@MariusFourie I bought this accumulator maybe 3 years ago from dealer, they changed it and it didnt help, and they dont know what to do with it so they wanted change whole HBB for 3000 dollars. I didnt agree with it and I tried solve it myself, I found issue, it needed air bleed from brakes. I tried air bleed now and didnt help. If my issue is accumulator again I need to buy another from dealer for 400dollars.

Press and hold the brake while idling. If the pedal stay gradually drops, then you have a master cylinder problem (or leak at the brake piston on one of the corners). If it stays stiff but HBB pump cycles, then you have an internal leak in the HBB which will need replacement as a whole. Remove accumulator (ignition off, pump brake 40 times - unscrew accumulator), then try to press the inside through the whole with a screwdriver. If it yields the accumulator is bad. If it's rock hard it's likely the accumulator is fine. If you know someone else with a pajero, swap out accumulators with him and see if the issue follows the accumulator.

Thanks for the reply! I'm going to be working on it today and I'll have a go at these diag tips you mentioned. Unfortunately, here in Pakistan, pajeros aren't very common. I will post back here once I've got the issue fixed for anyone else who has a similar issue. Thanks a lot!

​@@MariusFourie Well, I have some good news. I did the tests you suggested. Pedal stayed firm, motor kept running every 5-15 seconds. Then, I removed the Accumulator and tried pushing with a screwdriver. Piston was solid. Then, I took the poppet valve and spring out to look down the hole where the Accumulator fits. I put my screwdriver in there which happened to be a magnetic screwdriver. Fished out a few very tiny pieces of metal. I then remembered the used accumulator I tried to install wasn't screwing in right. The first thread was a bit 'flattened'. I think some shaving fell into the hole. I cleaned it out, cleaned out the hole, and reinstalled the Accumulator. Lo and behold, everything seems back to normal. I took it on a drive around the neighbourhood and in town a bit. Seems to be doing fine. Will report back if I have any further issues, but I think I've solved my problem. Thanks!

​@@norontboyz5949after the 3 months, is still working with no chirp noise? Or it came back? I'm thinking about give a try on unscrew the accumulator, check it out and screw it back.

every swap is different. Depends on extra work required. Around 4-8 hours.

Maybe your actuator is faulty or the VGT vanes are stuck on the turbo

@MariusFourie brand new actuator , everything else worked fine before, old actuator wouldn't hold vacuum so changed it for a new one. Wastegate is free to move so assuming vanes OK.

As it turns out. . . . the exhaust turbine wheel had, err. . . . fell off ! @@MariusFourie

Pedal slowly creeping to floor is master cylinder or leak (fluid will go down in reservoir over time). Bleed as normal 500ml per corner but have the car idling when you do the rears.

@@MariusFourie absolutely no leak - the fluid level in the reservoir didn't budge even 1mm. It had to be bypass of the master cylinder seals/pistons. A year later, I installed a brand new HBB and have not had to top up at all in the 2½ years since. I still have the old HBB and may investigate when I have nothing more important to do! I will have another go at bleeding the system again, following your advice, to see whether I can get a firmer pedal.

bleed the brakes all four corners. Bleed conventionally while car is idling. If this fails then the accumulator may be faulty on new unit.

@@MariusFourie after I bleed all brakes what should I expect or are there any further steps I should take?

It clears on it's own

@@MariusFourie thnx 🙏🙏🙏🙏

The video is self explanatory

Not yet!

Glad it helped

Not sure. It might work but the gold can is the new one. I'd stick with that on such a critical component of the car.

It's a webasto heater. You'll have to do a search on it. Way too much to explain in a YT comments section.

what year model? Spongy brakes usually means air in the system. Do a full bleed as a start. Rears need to be bled with engine idling.

@@MariusFourie sir I am just brake bleeding star but suddenly traction,abs, parking light show and continue buzzer on.new problem show sir.

@@MariusFourie code show 57accum prs low just showing code

correct. You pump 40 times with ignition off to depressurise the accumulator before removal. The accumulator allows around 15 power brake pumps with ignition off.

1:35 you said ignition on by accident

the egr cooler is a known weakpoint and many fail. The coolant the escapes via the cooler out the exhaust and the first you know of it is an overheating engine due to low coolant levels. I recommend you bypass the coolant loop to avoid the coolant going through the egr cooler.

Ignition off, pump brake pedal fourty times. Unscrew old, screw in new. Simple.

@MariusFourie thanks mate, new one is expected to arrive this week so I'll follow your instructions

Yes.

R11500 (South African rands)

1.Turn the ignition switch to the LOCK (OFF) position. Depressurise the power supply system of the hydraulic brake booster (HBB) by depressing the brake pedal at least forty times until the pedal effort becomes high. 2.Check that the reservoir fluid level is at the MAX position. 3.Chock the wheels and release the parking brakes. 4.Turn the ignition switch ON, and measure how much time is elapsed after the pump motor starts until it stops. Standard value: 20 - 80 seconds 5.After the pump motor stopped, start the engine. The brake warning lamp should not be turned on. 6.Stop the engine, and then turn on the ignition switch again. 7.When the brake pedal is depressed four or five times, the pump motor should start and then stop. 8.Depress the brake pedal four or five times again, and then measure how much time is elapsed after the pump motor starts until it stops. 9.Depress the brake pedal fully consecutive 15 - 20 times for ten seconds. The brake warning lamp should illuminate and the buzzer should sound. Standard value: 2 - 11 seconds. caution : Turn the ignition switch ON, and wait for at least 120 seconds before carrying out the checks.

@@MariusFourie Very Cool, will give me a baseline to condition for sure..Thank You.

In my case, the pump comes in for 3 or 4 seconds everytime I press the brake pedal. Sometimes I hear the relief valve chirpin sound.

@@maiqueldeivit8197 yes i watched a video on that not a good sign the chirp bit "wear"..mine seems to be within specs as described by OP.

A hiss is probably internal high pressure bypass. Try testing your relays first to see if they are stuck in the ON position, overworking the pump. The accumulator is filled pump up with brake fluid. If the factory nitrogen fill has leaked out you will have no power assisted brakes and likely will have a bunch of error lights on the dash.

Es soll die AGR verbieten, die Schmutz in den Ansaugtrakt bringt

Have you tried bleeding while the engine is running? This is crucial for the rears. And actually makes bleeding the rears very easy. Just open the bleed valve and the abs pump will push the fluid through. Do some abs braking on gravel to get air out of the esp valve block.