This is actually headlight tint. It is from 'Vvivid' but other brands might have something similar.

@vinyl-witch thank you, I managed to locate a few 😅

Thanx...

This specific one that I am using is KPMF white pearl 'Aurora' matte. If you are looking for an easy vinyl as a beginner I would recommend Avery. But in the end it is all about practice. KPMF, Avery, Oracal, Hexis, Vvivid, 3M - all those are brands that carry wrap vinyl (cast). You will find a less expensive options which is usually calendared (different properties and life span though). These would be Tekwrap, Vinyl Frog, KK Vinyl, Tiny Bot. Hope that helps.

Oh, I think I made a video when I re-wrapped my winter rims. I will check and try to post it.

Specify the question. Brand? Any...they have all different properties. But basically any wrap vinyl will work well.

It will probably not be hot enough. You can try but a heat gun is much better. You need a constant even heat.

Not yet. I have some side mirrors lying around and other car pieces. When I get the time I will do some corners. I think those are in particular tricky sometimes indeed.

I work hard on more videos with more detailed explanations. It's freaking time consuming but all the positive comments demand more. So, I will deliver :)

Do it​@@vinyl-witch

:D Happy if it helped

​​@@vinyl-witchJust 5 minutes ago, was wrapping my boot shifter cover in my car, a similar shape or concept as your mouse. Back for a refresher, lol! Smaller pieces are harder for sure, and yes, your video, has helped me out so much! You have no idea! Thanks again.

I am glad to hear it helped. :)

😁 Try without beer... It's all about practice.

@@vinyl-witch the part that im trying to wrap is really complicated its the shape of a doughtnut. imagine like round on all sides and a round concave hole in the center, is this even going to be possible for me, a complete amateur?

Honestly, I was not sure I can without them breaking or falling apart. The door molding clips nearly all broke, same for the interior clips of the side mirrors. The molding of the windshield also showed signs of age, so I didn't touch it. So far my 'touch ups' seem to be fine. I am not a pro in terms of body work, I just did what made sense to me. Planning to change the wrap this year and then I will see how my patchwork is truly holding up when removing the wrap.

It depends what works best for you + your surroundings. I have mine usually mid hot. If you have to heat a larger area you need it hotter, other wise it will cool down before you can heat up everything. For post heating you need to check the recommendations of the brand you use. They all have different temp. Avery i.e. is somewhere between 175-196°F.

It depends. To make it more pliable, yes. Usually you can use steam at the end to get the finish as perfect as possible. Or a heat gun, or torch (for the self healing effect). Some vinyls need a post heating which needs temperatures up to 200° C or more (post heating is recommended always). But just to help with stretch you can even use a hairdryer. Not as efficient as a heat gun but it will definitely help.

It depends. A lot of plastics are difficult to wrap because they tend to be to 'rough' in a sense of low surface energy. Like car body parts for example (those black plastic pieces like door moldings or interior trim pieces with this little texture to it etc). Some plastics 'gas out' over time (that's why they get brittle, they fade, black turns grayish, red turns pinkish). In those cases the vinyl would get air pockets and probably undo at one point. You need to try. I have wrapped fairing pieces on motorcycles and so far there have been no issues. If it sticks well from the beginning I would give it a try.

I guess...witchcraft :D

👉 This is why porn was created.

Oops I missed your comment. Sorry for that. Yes, I am planning to make more videos.

@@vinyl-witch okay perfect what’s your email to contact you? I got a technical wrapping question

@@Chris-fu5mb You can contact me currently via my FB page.

@@vinyl-witch Hey your facebook page is not opening up unfortunately :( Says "content isn't available right now"

@@Chris-fu5mb Whut? Seems to work fine...strange, but yeah I need to get a proper website up.... FB makes me #*@grrrr in so many ways

That's an ancient relic from the time when mice had still "balls" 😂. (probably 20 years old) I found a few in a box in the garage and keep those for wrapping or airbrushing.

@@vinyl-witch right they did have balls, i remember ,craving them out ô.ô

If you have a pic or few of your issue, you might wanna send it to me via FB (Vinyl-Witch). Maybe I can help indeed when I see what makes you struggle.

You can cut actually all vinyls with a cutter. I am using here specifically wrap vinyl but you have a point. ( another video idea :)) As for the differences of the vinyls itself: Wrap vinyl is designed for vehicles or anything that will also be exposed to the elements. It is thicker than regular vinyl (talking still microns though) and has air channels in the glue (makes it easier to avoid trapping air underneath). The thickness also allows for more stretch. It is more durable generally speaking and has a longer lifetime and less 'self shrink' over time. Now, lettering vinyl and craft vinyl can also be used to 'wrap' something. It is the same material BUT those are thinner. Hence stretch is limited before it discolors. And those have no air channels. This makes it difficult to wrap dry since it is very easy to trap air. (There are exceptions though. Oracal has lettering vinyl with air release.) Lettering vinyl is available for outdoors and indoors. Difference is lifetime. And how it was produced: Cast or calendared. Craft vinyl is usually calendared. It is meant for indoor usage and has a shorter lifetime (but we are still talking years). And biggest difference is the shrinkage. Calendared vinyl shrinks over time on its own much more than cast. But there are wrap vinyls that are calendared because they have a nicer finish... So baseline: You can wrap with any vinyl just need to know the limits. Without air release a wet application is better but this makes it difficult when heating to soften and stretch it. But the behavior is the same. When heated it gets soft and really stretchable and when re-heated it will always tend to go back to its original state.

@@vinyl-witch Thank you for the information and going Into great detail, I really appreciate it. I looked forever for an answer. I honestly just wanted to know if I could wrap the cool looking vinyl sheets with all the holographic colors you see online. But I guess it's not made for that. I just want heat and wrap random small items of mine, just to give them more style like you did here with this mouse. So my best bet would be to go specifically shopping for "wrap" vinyl. Got it 👍. Thanks again

@@namelessvermillion8188 Oh, those holographic ones are very special. These are polyester based, they do not stretch at all and if they do (with heat out of hell) usually it breaks the holo-effect, they get wrinkled and don't shrink back or separate layers. They are good for flat surfaces or if you like to swear a lot ;) A nightmare literally. Unless you make a pattern with a cutter, by reducing the total surface to small pieces (if this makes sense).

:) You would need to that in pieces if you want to cover the front frame and the back. But yeah, I could (just need to find the time) & I have a monitor standing around that gave up 3 weeks ago. It's a good sampler for corners... I will see what I can do.

@@vinyl-witch Sweet. That would be so helpful. I'm going to just try to vinyl wrap the monitor bezel.

It is all about practice. The more you work with it the more you get insights how to deal with it the best way.

Be restassured no mice were harmed during this demonstration ;)

A good point to add to your techniques of breaking the memory you could also instead pre shrink the vinyl then stretch it this was your technically stretching the vinyl back to it's original state when stretching and this works because almost all vinyls will shrink from their memory state a little bit not a ton but it works and it's a nice little trick.

You are right, pre-shrinking is another way to do it. It works best with polymeric (calendared) vinyls though as cast doesn't shrink much from its "delivery" state. I will try to make another video on that technique, too. I just can't find the time.... but I will :D

​@@vinyl-witch Subscribed. Because, like so many others have said, you actually explain how vinyl works. Thank you so much. I didn't think I need to subscribe but your content should have waaay more subscribers. You really put the "pro" channels to shame. Thanks again

If it is a gold metallic it should work the same way. If you use chrome gold, it will be very difficult because chromes can't be stretched. With chrome you need to make a little bit of a puzzle work.

Yea the same goes for me I've been watching the biggest wrapping channels for weeks trying to get the basics of wrapping complex objects and she literally explains it better then every single one of them because she puts a complex task in simple terms meaning she made it so much easier to understand what the vinyl is doing when we stretch or heat it up vs others not really going into that but instead they explain why their doing. W.e. they're doing on a specific item but not explaining how that would apply to other items like she's doing here very well!!!

No lie!

Thank you so much. And even more for letting me know that the comments were turned off. It was not me, it seems for whatever reason they were turned off by KZbin. Took me a moment to find the settings and turn them on again. (hopefully) I am planning to do more of those videos and improve my cinematic skills ;) It was a bit of a crazy year but I am finally getting time again to dive back into recording while working.

Vivid behaves indeed quite similar. The best way is to warm it up a bit, you will see that the tension will ease out and you will find it easier to squeege. I try to 'glass' vinyl out when laying it when possible. If you have to feed it into a deep recess you do that and then you warm it up and glass it for the rest again. Best is always to try with a small piece to see how it behaves. Less trouble afterwards when you are already on the project.

@@vinyl-witch Yeah I 'finished' wrapping the whole car but want to re-do the bumpers, hood and probably the roof at some point. I have a lot of spare. Just redid the mirror caps - ended up removing them so I could tuck them cleanly but it was a lot harder having the caps loose and not able to stretch very easily to form it around the complex curves. I might have to use some scrap and find stuff to practice on. I don't have a garage so do it outside so have to wait for days where it's not windy and its not too cold or hot.

I am planning to do so indeed. More close-ups of tricky parts and definitely some time laps of wrapping in general. We just recently moved and it has been a bit crazy buuuut I promise I will produce more useful content.