That's awesome! We're so happy to hear you're loving the battery switch and that everything is working perfectly. It means a lot to us that you took the time to share your detailed experience. Thanks again!

We get it - visuals make all the difference! We don't have an installation video yet, but our blog post on this product has a dedicated section called "Installation and Usage". It's just a few clear steps illustrated with simple connection diagrams and a final product image. Hopefully, that'll get you going smoothly! Feel free to reach out if you have any questions during installation. www.daierswitches.com/blogs/news/the-ultimate-guide-to-the-remote-control-battery-disconnect-switch

The switch itself has a very low standby current of just 1-3mA. To put that into perspective, that's about the same as leaving a single tiny LED indicator light on. While it's always best practice to turn off the switch when you're not using it for extended periods, even if you forget, it would take a very long time to drain a healthy car battery significantly."

You can find the programming instructions in the product manual! Since I can't send images directly, you can click the link and access the three files under the product description "TECHNICAL DATA SHEET": product test report, certification, and the instruction manual (the third file). You can click on it to view the PDF version. I've also added the manual to the main product images for your convenience. You can click on the picture to zoom in and read it. Let me know if you have any other questions! www.daierswitches.com/products/12v-240a-automatic-disconnect-on-off-remote-control-battery-disconnect-switch

Yes, our fuse relay box could be used to control those, however, make sure the amperage rating of each relay matches your vehicle's circuit amperage for the headlights, taillights, etc.

Thanks for your question! Our 12V 240A Remote Battery Disconnect Switch comes pre-paired from the factory, so no pairing is needed.

Mine never worked. So how do you re-pair them?

We understand you're having trouble pairing your remote keys. Our (Daier) 12V 240A Remote Battery Disconnect Switch comes pre-paired from the factory, so no pairing is needed. It sounds like you may have a product from a different manufacturer. We recommend contacting the retailer where you purchased the product for assistance with pairing or a possible exchange.

I'm not sure what the cold cranking amps (CCA) are for your 2020 Mustang GT, but the maximum instantaneous current for this product is 500A. If the CCA of your car is higher than 500A, it might affect the product's performance. For your application, I recommend choosing a battery switch with a higher current rating.

The remote uses a 433MHz frequency and typically has a range of up to 100 feet in open areas, but this can vary depending on environmental factors like obstacles and interference. We are available in the US! Let me know if you have any other questions. 😊

You can find this product on our website at www.daierswitches.com/products/12v-240a-automatic-disconnect-on-off-remote-control-battery-disconnect-switch

@@daierelectron Due to your fast reply, I decided to buy this from your site..........

That's fantastic to hear! I'm so glad we could help and that you found what you were looking for. Let us know if you have any questions at all about your order. 😊

Thanks for your question. While our battery disconnect switch is compatible with 12V and 24V systems and can handle instantaneous currents up to 500A, it has a continuous current rating of 240A. Since your battery has a capacity of 800A, it's important to consider the continuous current draw of your application. If your application regularly draws more than 240A, this switch might not be the best fit.

Thanks for your question! I understand the confusion. There seems to be a misunderstanding about the red wires in the video. Both red wires in the fuse box are indeed positive leads and need to connect to the positive terminal of the battery. They distribute power to the fuses in the box. The video might be missing an additional wire that goes from the switch to a power source (like the battery or another positive terminal). This connection is crucial for activating the relay and controlling the circuits connected to it. For a clearer understanding, you can refer to the circuit diagram of a similar product here: www.daierswitches.com/products/12v-automotive-pre-wired-waterproof-6-way-fuse-relay-box-kit I hope this clarifies the wiring! Feel free to ask if you have any further questions.

Great question! While the button is rated for 20A, using a fuse is crucial to protect your setup from electrical issues. Choose a fuse slightly above your horn's current draw (e.g., 15A fuse for a 10A horn) and ensure it's suitable for your environment (e.g., waterproof for marine use). Feel free to ask if you need more info!

@@daierelectron I was going to run this method but with a momentary switch connected to a separate car alarm siren. Just to get a chirp sound to get people attention besides using the my car horn.

​@@junballs6576 Cool idea! Just make sure your fuse and switch can handle the siren's current. Also, keep the 'chip' sound level reasonable.

Go just go!

Thank you for providing the details of your solar system setup. Based on the information you've shared, your 150 amp busbars should be sufficient for your needs. They can safely handle the maximum current expected in your system.

Batteries: Assuming each LiFePO4 battery has 100Ah capacity, your total usable capacity (at 80% depth of discharge) is 320Ah. This should power your refrigerator for approximately 38 hours. (PS: Assuming that a refrigerator consumes an average of 100 watts per hour, it will draw about 8.3A per hour in a 12V system (100W / 12V = 8.3A).) Solar Panels: With 800W of solar panels, you'll generate roughly 32A of charging current under real-world conditions. Charge Controllers: The Victron 100/50 and 100/15 controllers combined provide 65A of charging capacity, more than enough for your solar output. Inverter: Your 1200W Victron inverter can handle a maximum current draw of 100A, easily exceeding your refrigerator's needs and leaving room for other appliances. Busbars: Your 150A busbars are well above the combined maximum current of your system (around 132A), ensuring safe and efficient operation. The data source is based on the same products on Amazon, I hope this information is helpful.

@@daierelectron thanks 👍😊

@@daierelectron thanks 👍😊

What does driving have to do with some random device`s instruction manual? You`re driving, you need to know how to drive not how to install power lines. That`s like saying, if you don`t know how the thing you buy works without the manual then you shouldn`t buy it.

@@makaevans8323if you can’t do a simple battery installation you need to let your husband drive

The relay is 40A max.

@@daierelectron thank you, so each wire is also rated for 40 amps?

For your safety concern, if you are going to use it for high current use, and may use multiple ways at the same time, we would recommend you to purchase the non-wired version, you can install the wires according to your own need, you can wire each circuit separately to allow large amperage at the same time. Our pre-wired version is using jumper connection to simplify the total connection work for customers, so it may not allow full amperage for each circuit to go through the box at the same time.

@@daierelectron Thank you, very much!!

Or went slowly so people know what he’s doing

To battery “+”.

@@daierelectron thanks and sorry for bad grammar , lol I meant so does lol

?? Why does the red wires go to switch??

Be used as connection points for jumper cables, between a portable generator starter wire and a vehicle battery. Install a wire from a battery to this terminal and then connect other wires to this terminal.

A LED bulb.

Okay, we'll upload it.

kzbin.info/www/bejne/qV6ro3dpgdhjkK8

@@daierelectron Thank you very much