The speaker slots into a cut out on the mid chassis, there are also holes in the case to allow sound out.

Depends on the battery used, both EEMB batteries fill it, the MakerFocus leaves enough room. I’m planning a different back plate that adds a top bump for a RushFPV GPS module.

@@zerofox3d Will updated versions be made available to people who purchased files to print their own?

@@tkerby When I upload updated files you’ll get a notification with download link 👍

​@zerofox3d An M100 mini would be a great version too as they are cheap and small! I would bye the stls today I have 4 T-Decks!

Difficult to say but I have reached a node a mile away with the internal antenna. External will always be superior of course!

The size was dictated by a couple of factors. Firstly using DuPont connectors which in theory makes the build easier. Second one is sensor accuracy, specifically temperature. Other popular sensors at the time I was developing this needed temp offset values specifying in the YAML because the heat from the ESP and other components caused the sensor to report incorrect values. Leela has several design choices to avoid this. It will never compete with Zigbee based sensors, they use much less power than ESP WiFi boards, but Leela is a fun project and can be built very cheaply 😁

Thanks for your answer. Yes, I am aware of these points. In terms of temperature development, ZIGBEE obviously has an advantage. To get this point under control with your combo sensor, I would consider decoupling the housing... In short: A component that generates heat and is mounted in a housing will heat up the housing over time and subsequently also its interior and a temperature sensor built into it. It is always disadvantageous if a temperature sensor and a component that generates heat are on the same mounting plate (here the half shell of the PIR housing). Over time, the heat will reach the temperature sensor, either via contact on the housing or via the heated interior air. I would store the temperature sensor in a separate small housing, decoupled from the main housing, in such a way that it is only connected to the main housing via very delicate (filligree) connections. These housing connecting elements should avoid heat conduction by using as little material as possible and also allow the energy to be released to the outside air (acting as a heat sink surrounded by outside air). Perhaps this theory will help a little.

The YAML for all the supported sensors is included in the files

Thanks my Magical Potato friend! There is a secret many don’t know… hold down the top button to soft shut down the Heltec. It’s not fully “off” like a power switch that cuts the battery connection but it does use little power in that state.

Thanks David!

I’ll sort you out some backs Ira 👍

​​@@zerofox3dIt's a very clever case design, but have you considered using the GoPro Hero battery format and making it swappable ?

@@edwardfletcher7790 Thanks! The issue is you need a battery and its matching holder with terminals. It’s generally impossible to find a holder for anything but the common tubular cell batteries like AA or 18650. Anything flat or a more useful efficient shape generally comes with a wire and random JST type connector (normally a non-original-knockoff JST) So we’re kind of stuck!

I should have just said “best” and left it at that 😉

Partly the lack of space, partly the added complication of production (soldering) and partly its not really needed in a device you will likely charge every night. Add to this you can hold down the top button on the Heltec to put it into a low power sleep mode. Adding it would have just made it over-engineered really 😉

I have WisBlocks here…. Will get to them!

I figured someone would get the tribute :D

@@zerofox3d My two arrived today, thank you, started assembling them... but realised there's no on/off power switch?! 😱

@@techydude​​⁠The Heltec can be put into a “soft” off/sleep state by holding down the top button. No hardware power switch as in a device you likely charge everyday that has a 20+ hour battery life it’s really not needed. Add to that it would have increased size and manufacturing time… soldering Bender was a huge task 😝

@@zerofox3d Ah, I didn't know about the soft-off, worked great overnight. Thanks!

@@techydude Neither did I when I designed a case with a switch I’d then have to solder 1000 times 😆 The physical switch is obviously better but the soft power down is fine for this type of case 😁

No space! Plus you can just hold down the programme button to sleep the Heltec so the power switch isn't really needed (especially in a device you will likely charge each night like a phone)

Sadly not. I’ve not been approached by any resellers in Australia yet but even if I did they’d add margin to cover import fees and make profit. You could of course just buy a printer 😂

The small one I use is just a cheap jobby from eBay. I plan to try and source a small one I can provide as an option, for now Google/ebay is your friend 😉

@@zerofox3d just found some on amazon.

The switch I use is widely available, this is the switch on Amazon UK but it’s available under different names all over the world: amzn.eu/d/bjG8yt7

Not yet but I do have a couple in a draw 😉

It's been suggested I need to look into it! Leela is on the back burner at the moment sadly while I deal with another product that blew up. I've built a print farm though so maybe you'll be able to buy a Leela in future!

Correct, you need to add the Heltec and Battery, I'll revise the description to make this clearer, thanks.

@@zerofox3d You might want to add an option to buy the Heltec as part of a package too, if you get enough demand, then people can buy a full working kit :) I have just ordered a Heltec from Amazon, as my first step into this!

@@Sparks0001 I’d love too but the order volumes Heltec ask for to get competitive discounts made my eyes water!

Space is tight in the main body so it would be tricky, the Niblet on the end though is something that could be modified and customised. I’ll be posting a STEP file for it soon.

That will be a support enforcer/blocker. If you read the release notes this is explained ;-)

...when your battery life is measured in minutes rather than hours you don't qualify lol

Have a look for Ringway Manchester’s video explaining Meshtastic 👍

Honestly not 100% sure! I would think it sleep mode the lora chip wouldn’t be pushing anything to the antenna but I am guessing! What I will say is I’ve powered a Heltec up accidentally without an antenna countless times and have yet to see any consequences, not sure if that’s luck!

The logical thing for me to have done is design Nibbler so that a version could be made to fit the Heltec Tracker…. 😉

Thanks bud, it worked out really well in so many ways I haven't mentioned. Like the way it's centre of gravity is such that it will sit nicely on a desk just like Bender. I completely planned that of course!

Cheers Sean. Your order is in the last 20 or so of Batch W. CQR in Moreton are making the cables as I type this. I'll see if I can make one myself for you today and will drop it round later if I can ;-) I have a draw full of other boards.....

@zerofox3d That would be awesome! I'm away in London for Friday! Was hoping take take it with me! I understand your sbowed understand. Did you get my messages on the mesh, I spotted your node at Alton Towers or somewhere near and dropped at message but wasn't sure you got it, My nodes or SYA & WLV