Yes, a rubber band is a perfectly legal aiming method for target longbows, as long as its within 1/8 of an inch wide, I tend to use one outdoors, where wind is more of a factor. Indoors, I prefer to use a groundmarker, where I'm putting something on the ground, then pointing my arrows at it. Without going all mathsy, the arrows should then all land in the gold, assuming I've put it in the correct spot

It is an English Longbow! This is how many people shoot this bow in the UK. I suggest you try it if you want to see improvements in WA target shooting. I should also say, there is no right or wrong way to shoot any bow. This is how I do it and what I havs tought others for many years now. If you would like further advice, feel free to ask!

John Schulz hitting like Haword Hill You tube Part 1 - 4 Ist americkan longbow , but ist the same. 😊

@@sinisastojkovic2430 ah I am familiar with this. It is just another way to do it, shooting a very different style! Welcome to archery! many different techniques.

How have you been getting on? the handshock can take some getting used to. what draw weight are you shooting?

@@how2longbow455 Good my friend! You're absolutely right I'm fine. Now I shoot a #57, 10 months ago I was shooting a #48.

I am glad this has helped! thanks for commenting

I use the AAE KSL Gold super leather Brass tab. I wanted to try something weighty, although can't say if it makes much difference over an aluminium tab. I still use to this day though and have never had to change the leather face! The backing is due a change though. Thanks for watching! 🏹

@@how2longbow455 thanks. Do you use the brass palm plate or the plastic one that it comes with?

@@jackieandrichard I use the plastic one it comes with. I think it would be worth a try if you wanted to add as much weight to the tab as possible, I have never tried it though!

That may be true in some cases my friend, but not always that simple! thanks for commenting and shoot well 😊👍

@@how2longbow455 okay. Cheers, mate. 👍

I only really soot Grizzly Strings on my bows right now. I use the "Pro" string on both my Ghost and Timberpoint longbows and really like how they feel and perform! All you need is to tell him the draw weight and bow length (and any colours etc) and he will put it together for you. If you've a preference on strand count he can accommodate that too (i like mine on the thicker side) You can get all the info at the link below: www.grizzlyjim.co.uk/product/custom-grizzly-string/ Thank you for your kind words and I hope you enjoy the bow! 🏹

@@how2longbow455 Spot on, thank you!! Just one more thing, after now having a few more miles on the bow, is there anything you wish you'd asked for or changed at the point of build? I'm looking to have mine built pretty much the same as yours. We're similar builds and I'm looking to get into 3D. I have a small farm and looking to build my own course. Thanks again. Your advice is much appreciated.

Daniel Vestholm you are courting controversy with that comment!

Richard Singer am I? Lol

the right side is the one which works for you and honestly you can learn to shoot both ways if you want

Wrong side not exist . For left side schoting Ist the engl of the bow wrong. End the Grip is wrong to. His arow hit left vrom target.

@@sinisastojkovic2430 my arrows hit the middle 😉

Yeah car window

Hi Keith. Thank you for your comment. I agree, knock position is definitly an indicator of spine! This is something I failed to mention. However It does also cause drift in either direction. I can demonstrate this to you if we ever meet. At 70m I can aim in the centre with correctly spined arrows but the same spine and weight arrow cut to 3/4" shorter (dynamically now a stiffer arrow) will impact 50cm to the right of centre when aimed in the same place. Shooting off hand with primitive style bows makes spine matching with wooden shafts difficult, and often as a beginner to arrow making and traditional archery people often end up with arrows that behave in this way and many can overcome this by leaning or string picture. I would argue this holds true due to the amount of people who respond yo this method, and my own experince with it from distances from 5-90m. Likewise, i can achieve different arrow placements on the target with different degrees of bow lean/ arrow spine both with my English Longbow and American flatbow. I haven't tried it with a centre shot bow so i can't comment from experince there but i am confident in my comments regarding it's influence when shooting longbows/flatbows.

@@how2longbow455 I predominantly shoot various recurve bows, three cut 1/8 past centre and the other three cut to centre and hence are more spine tolerant. My 68" AFB is cut plus 1/8 to centre. I shoot carbon and wood arrows that are 31.5-32" which I tune. The only time that I have found left/right placement is when the spine is too soft and the nock strikes the shelf wall due to the reflex node of the nock end occurring before it has cleared the shelf. Or I have done a bad release. I will add that I bare shaft my shafts at 10, 15 and 20 yards. Six of my bows all draw between 50-57#. So I build 400 spine Easton powerflights with 145grn piles and 5" fletchings. My wood arrows are spruce, 32", 11/32", 70# spine, 125grn piles and 52" fletchings and all work well across 6 of my bows. incidentally, I shoot trad field and 3D and so sod the 70yard butts, at that distance I have to use "The Force" lol. Our chat is the same as at the club, ask 20 archers a question and you will get 20 different opinions lol. I must say though, your arrow spine choice does sound weak...and I bet they are 5/16 shafts.

@@keithbaker3405 the joys of traditional archery is the 101 differences of opinion/results 😁. I must admit I no longer make arrows for my ELB. I get them made now and they tend to be barrelled 11/32 to 5/16 at the front and 9/32 at the back. For my light weight 40lb elb (the one I think I'm holding in the video) my latest set are 5/16 shafts down to 1/4 at the nock cut to my tiny 27" draw length. But i do have a super long set, 50-55spine 11/32 that fly perfectly out of that bow. But as long as i know where to aim a given set it doesn't bother me :) It's my flatbow that's been giving me the biggest headache with arrows . My 68" AFB, 45lb. 45-50 with a few inches over length seem to come out straight but anything else higher or lower flaps around fierce (all 11/32, except some old elb sets I have tested). Alot of my flatbow friends are shooting a spine atleast 10# over draw weight but something about me or my bow is keeping me on a lighter spine 😅 Is your draw length 32"? And how do you get on bareshafting woods? I witnessed a friend bareshafting woodies from a recurve and the spine must have been too far out as they were snapping as they were entering the target

@@how2longbow455 Indeed...those 5/16-1/14 must surely be too weak IMO. When I came back to archery after 45 years 95% of all the arrow building info I was given by club members for wooden shafts was wrong. It took me 3 months of trial, error and studying to get anywhere near good. I am cursed with a very long draw length (split finger, ring finger to the corner of my mouth, index between my cheekbone and nose) of 31 1/4" I can just feel the back of the pile touch my finger. So now I don't cut shafts and because I am a cheapskate this limits me to 311/2" carbons and 32" spruce, so I tend to use heavy spined shafts and weaken the spine by adding pile weight. I bare shaft my wood shafts as I do carbons, I use taper threaded piles and take a selection to my range and test them at 10,15,20 yards, if the nock points left they are too weak and so I reduce pile weight. Your friends shafts are probably too weak and probably too thin. I find the biggest problem people have is that they buy the pounded spine to match what it says on the bow. Google "Henry Bodnik's Spine Table For Wooden Shafts".....awww sod it, here is the link www.bearpaw-blog.com/the-right-spine-for-wooden-shafts/ ...it will amaze you just how much too light a spine wooden shaft people shoot! I use Shire Archery for my spruce shafts, he is a good old boy and weight matches the shafts at no extra cost. The only downside is the last time I looked he only sold 70# shafts and so my arrows can be slightly weak! Be it carbon or wood all my arrows are similar, 3x5" fletchings (right wing with a 3 degree helical offset), woods are 32"x11/16" 125grn and my carbons are 400 spine x 311/2" with 145grn pile or 350 spine with 175grn pile and again, fletched the same(I am a believer in heavy, high FOC arrows as they hold more kinetic energy and the nock has to follow the arrow...I want the dog wagging the tail, not the tail wagging the dog). Some people say to me "why shoot such heavy arrows?", my answer is, Get a ping pong ball and a golf ball...what can you throw the furthest?". That normally gets them thinking for the most part, but then I also get the die hards who insist that a micro shaft arrow with an 80grn pile and a total arrow weight of 400grn is the future! Oh and also don't forget, you can also tune you bow to the arrow by increasing or decreasing the brace height. A higher brace height will impart less energy into the arrow and stiffen the arrow while a lower brace height imparts more of the bows energy into the arrow and weakens it.

Hi, thanks for watching! Great question and lots to chat about so I'll get a video up this week for you! Is longbow the only style you shoot or have you shot recurve before?

I started with recurve before starting to favour barebow. Finding the latter more satisfying.

thank you 😁🎯🏹

hi! so let me clarify- the bow doesnt have a wrapped handle section? this is not unusual, however most handles are wrapped now for grip comfort. does it have an arrow pass or strike plate on the bow at all? this will either be a small round disk of hard matterial cut and placed into a grove on one or both sides of the bow, or sometimes an emblem is etched or burned onto the side of the bow. this marks where to place the arrow on the bow when drawing, so you know to have your hand underneith this so the arrow sits against the mark - and you can then use a bow square or a ruler or anything straight to find parallell, then quarter inch above is where i nock the arrow on the string. if the bow has nothing, i would ask the bowyer. some bows are made to be gripped from centre, and some are made to have the arrow shot at centre (gripped below centre). this is the most optinal way to use your bow, and it may impact its life and performance if not gripped in the correct way (as this forces the limbs to flex to a lesser or greater degree than the bow was tillered and balanced). i hope that makes sense! somebody please correct me if I'm wrong 🏹

Yes sir! its how the longbow is shot for target in the UK. we dont use anything as sighting aids for field.

thanks for watching! i saw it as something new to learn and integrated it into my indoor target archery and didn't shoot a face anchor for atleast a year until i felt comfortable with it. when i went back to the face anchor i had a much better feeling for back tension from using the under chin anchor that my face anchor felt better! I can now switch between the two interchangeably but im using each about 50:50 in practice so that probably helps.

Thanks for that. Saw one of your videos when I was looking for Raven longbows. Good advice. Very few coaching tips out there for longbow.

@@jupiter8404 thanks! its my intention to fill the gap with what i have learned. i dont know everything! and I'm certainly not the best, but ive tried enough to know what works for me atleast. thanks for the feedback!

Hi! The bow i have here is made by Gary Evans. it is an artisan longbow, 4 lamination bamboo, ipe, purpleheart, lemonwood. its 42# @28. the arrows shown are 50-55 spine bearpaw spurce, full length 32". with 100gn tophat 3D piles, 4" gateway batwing fletchings with aae nocks.

@@how2longbow455 many thanks!

Glad it helped !!

Hi ! Thanks for watching!