Thank you again for your help.

It would seem the best solution for charging a motor home or camper van would be to have portable solar panels so you can park your vehicle in the shade and put the solar panels in the sun. If solar panels are on the roof of your vehicle, you're going to have to park in the sun, which can make the inside of a vehicle super hot.

Thank you!

I don’t see the other link to video

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Just subscribed 👍🏻🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸🇺🇸

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How come it's not enough to run the air conditioner? Is it because he doesn't have enough batteries?

Mmmmmmm so is it ok to use 8awg silicon 200c copper cable to connect my starter battery to my 40amp dc to dc mppt .. the cable run is about 5-6 m

help ! recently purchased a new class C Rv from Jayco and it is equipped with a solar panel controlled by a Go Power 30 amp rvc mppt controller. In order to check the water level in my house batteries I will have to disconnect all battery cables to be able to remove plastic caps to access cells ? Do I need to shut down the controller before i disconnect baltery cables ? If so, how do I turn it off, there is no switch on the controller ! thanks for any advice you can give me !

I appreciate your videos Nate.👍👍 I installed quite a few inverter/battery bank systems in cabins and boats in the 90s, and your videos with clear explanations both help me remember things I am forgetting (sadly, at an alarming rate these days) and get up to speed on current technology and equipment.

How best can i connect a 220watt solar panel and a 180watt solar with a 60ah charge controller?

yes very nice, thank you

Will a 40A RedArc DC-DC charger combined with a Victron XS 50A DC-DC charger overwhelm the 220A alternator in my Ford Transit 2.0 Diesel 170HP ? Any rules of thumb?

Thank God for you guys :) you make everything so clear when DIYing.

😁

Hi little late here and probably i wont get an answer😕 also english is not my first language so i might have misunderstood something, altought i get what you wanted to say. At 04:00 you said that 100W*1h=100 Wh after that yout mutiplied the hours 100W*2h=200Wh... i think that is fundamentally wrong. It will be still 100Wh in the same way if you drive 60miles/hour for 2h your speed is still 60miles/hour and it will not be 120miles/hour but you drived 120 miles. Back to Wh: if you use a 100 W bulb in your example for 2h it SHOULD still be 100Wh but since you used it for 2h your bulb used up 200W of power and not 200Wh. Except that i think it was a really informative and good video and keep up the good work.😉 ps.: I know my comment is a little long but if somebody read through it, thanks for that and if i misunderstood something i would be really thankful for somebody to clarify that.🤔

Hi Nate I was wondering what you use to protect the dedicated power system for the trailer ie. running lights, brakes and turn signals for being back fed and damaging the alternator in the truck.

A chainsaw face shield works really well and you don’t have to worry about fogging up

whats wrong with the DC miniature circuit breaker? You mentioned possible fire due to wrong wiring but don't mention the correct way of wiring them

Great video- best run down I've seen by anyone. What would be epic is if they would add voltage or amperage dependent control input. My truck doesn't have a separate fuse for any of the lights- that's all done in another module. So to add light control from my high beams turning on and off for example I need to split the wiring harness and splice into the high beam wire- which I'm not willing to do. What would be dope is if that control only triggered when volts or amps crossed a certain value. Also not a fan of how tiny the buttons are when used with android auto. Very hard to hit reliable on a touch screen. They need to make button size customizable and get rid of unassigned buttons from the display.

Again, thank you from Europe. I bought the UBS dongle. Can you help met with the E4 error code for the Victron Multiplus ..? Frank

Is the lynx distributor the "smart shunt" you are referring to? If not I do not see the "smart shunt" in your diagram..... Thanks for the video.. Also are the grounds attached to the vehicle ?

Thanks!

I wish I had seen this video BEFORE I started buying stuff , I was drunk shopping when I saw this stuff on lightning deals on black Friday. I bought a bunch of 100 W Renogy panels (RNG-100D-ss) with a 21.6 voc rating. Hey 50 bucks with free prime shipping and they were here in three days. I actually bought 15 but three were on backorder, and I got the first 12. Lucky me. By the time I figured anything, turns out I don't need them except maybe as spares? I was going to do 3 set of 5 panels but the MPPT has a VOC of 100 volts. Yeah there was no planning involved with Grey Goose and OJ. I thought an MPPT would be forgiving of a few extra volts but from what I'm seeing, that isn't the case. The MPPT is that yellow and black one you see on Amazon with a generic name, iSunergy 50A MPPT Solar Charge Controller 12V/24V Auto Adaptive. I have two of those WATT 12 100AH LiFePo batteries ready to put in Parallel for a 24 volt system. I was originally going to use 15 panels (3 sets of 5 in series) but found out the max input solar on this 1200W for 24volt systems, it's only 600w for 12V. It was well reviewed on YT channels and a budget price of under 90s bucks so I went with it. Pretty heavy and solid feeling unit. Massive heatsink and dual fans. Since I only have 12 of the 15 panels that I ordered right now for the ground array, I decided I would have 3 parallel sets of 4 panels in series and the panels say maximum series fuse rating is 15A, but each panel can output 5.72A max. Originally I wanted 3 sets of 5 panels but that over-voltage kicked that to the curb unless I get a different MPPT. Is the fuse built into each solar panel or is that 15A what is recommended to install? Also since max input is 1200 watts, no reason to wait for the other 3 panels on backorder shipping. For the run from the panels to the controller I bought a 10 awg wire which is going to connect to a triple combiner to take the 3 sets of the 4 panels output (of 17.9v x 4 operating voltage) @ 5.7A and should end up with something close to 54 volts, well under the 100 volts but more than 40v minimum, and the total Amps would only be about 17 at the very most. I have 10AWG for the run to the MPPT and expect about a 2V voltage drop base on 100 ft distance. So to the experienced guys out there, what am I missing and not considering. This isn't for efficiency as much as it was for shade but I saw another KZbinr that did the solar pergola and it just clicked. Would I be better off getting a better MMPT and the other 3 solar panels, bump it up to 1500 watts since the cost might be minimal? BTW there isn't even an inverter for this setup. I snatched up one of those jackery 1000 v2s that my kid will use a few times each year for camping. I can run a small air conditioner off of the Jacker which I can charge up constantly from the 24 volt battery system using two 8mm solar inputs over to the Jackery. yeah it sounds hokey but I want to keep stuff as untied to the house as possible so I don't have to get code inspections by having this tied into any kind of house wiring. I consider even mounting entire Pergola to movable system on wheels but would still have to tied to the ground because we get some wind here some day. I'll have no shade blocking the panels other than clouds up in the sky. This ground array is going to double as pergola between two giant gardens so that we can sit under there when it's hot to take a break when pulling weeds and planting. It will be about 10'ft on the high side and 8' on the slow side in a wooden frame so that I can have spouting to catch excess rain water and dump that into my 200 gallon water tanks.

So a female connector on one end and a male on the other, if you turn the cable around, you now have a negative wire.

I love the analogy with the beer and the whisky, I haven't heard it put that way before but it makes sense. I chose the Victron 100/50 charge controller which can do 700 watts at 12 volts and when im ready to upgrade to more panels i can switch to 24v and it will accept 1400watts.

So where is Bonanza?

5k

At 278 comments already, this might have been asked before. But someone else's video showed power connection to the small (m4 or m5?) screws on the left of the busbars. Is there any reason you know of why one route is better than the other? Thanks & love your channel 👌

Here’s my lack of programming story! LI’ve been trying to get information regarding what damage may have been done to any of the components in my dealer/manufacturer installed power and solar charging system due to the system being powered up and in use on the dealer lot prior to my purchase with absolutely no programming done to the charge controller included never switching the factory preset from lead acid to lithium batteries. I’m be pretty new to this stuff and mistakenly believed that coming from the factory everything should be set properly prior to offering the truck camper for sale. One of the advantages of purchasing new is usually starting from all new properly matched and set up/installed components. Boy was I wrong. I even contacted the battery manufacturer inquiring as to the viability of the battery moving forward and should it be replaced immediately? They refused to even answer fearing that I was looking to hold them responsible which I don’t. I will be contacting the manufacturer myself to request some warranty work after finding so much shoddy work and I am using your tutorials to learn what I need to know to start from the beginning and retire the current components upgrading , replacing and adding as I go. Thanks again for your advice and effort 🤙🏻

HI getting pretty confused on charging rates etc. I have 4 x 12V/120Ah LiFePo in 2s2p (24v/ 240Ah), 2 x MPPT (250/100 & 150/35), what should I put in as the charging rate?

What brand of 6/4 Soow wire do you recommend using for 50a RV? The local box stores only have 6/4 soow that is rated at 45amps.

Directions not clear. When I was stripping I got hit upside the head and told to never do that again!!!😅

Hi Nate. When comparing other panels using the method shared, is the panel voltage based on the open circuit voltage (VOC), and the short circuit current for Amps? Thanks!

You need none of these if you use EcoFlow system.😮😮😮

Have you ever seen / tried Weidmuller tools? I bought a couple of used Weidmuller ferrule crimpers to cover all the sizes and they are pretty awesome.

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"I'm not judging you...." at least not out loud. 🤠

WOW! I LOVE your attention to detail! I am building a nearly identical system in my travel trailer and you've given me some awesome tips! Definitely like & subscribe!