I wouldn't exactly call it wonky, it's simply the fact that the ring and sleeve on a TRS connector are 'joined' on a TS connector. It passes on the RCA cable test because, like the guitar lead, RCA's only have two connections as well. The cable tester is in fact displaying the correct 'error' when putting a TS cable into its TRS jack because the ring and sleeve a 'shorted'. Otherwise you'd need a cable tester with separate TS and TRS 1/4" connections which most do not have.

@@tokendave8630 Thank you. I think it's very disappointing, a typical performing musician like myself is chiefly concerned with mono cables and we don't want any other connections involved that can complicate the issue. I've certainly had phono to jack adapters in the past that have gone wonky. We want to plug the cable directly to the tester.

The best way to see if there are any issues with the mic cable is to plug a microphone into the cable and then plug it into a mixer channel. Then, while speaking into the mic (best to have someone speak into the mic if you can) grab the cable with your hands (starting at the XLR connector) and start twisting and bending the cable all the way to the other end listening for any cracks and pops. If you hear a crack or pop at a certain spot, there is most likely a break or the start of a break in the mic cable. Also open up the connector to see if any connections are broke or starting to break.

@@avcsstechworld thanks again

They make all kinds of adapters / converters for what you are talking about. You just have to find the one that works (as they don't all work as described). Thanks for watching.

Without having the mixer in front of me, I would suggest the following: First, I will assume that you are using the same cable and mic to check all these channels, Is the signal just lower on a mic or line input (not sure if your mixer uses the XLR for both mic and line), and Second, is there a Mic / Line switch on this channel? If yes, I would clean the switch with contact cleaner (I've had issues like this before that some contact cleaner took care of), clean the fader, gain control, and any other buttons / switches for that channel as well. Third, open up the mixer and check the XLR connector and for cold solder joints. After that, it will most likely be in the circuitry (Op amp, capacitor, etc). Hope this helps.

Wow, thank you for the response. I am using the same mic and cable for testing all channels. All channels have XLR mic inputs and 1/2” Bal / Unbal inputs. For the moment, I was only concerned with the mic inputs, using a mic at mic level. I’ll clean all of the connections. I’ve got some deoxit cleaner and conditioner, as well as compressed air and 99% isopropyl alcohol. The part I’d like to do, is to check for cold solder joints. That’s thr part I don’t know how to do. Thank you again

Use caution when disassembling the mixer, remove power, but most of all keep track of how you remove the parts and pieces. Checking for cold solder joints is easy, but takes a keen eye. I just try to move the XLR to see if it is loose in any way, look at the solder joints on the circuit board, and go ahead an re-solder the XLR leads while you have the mixer apart. Again, if you are not familiar with opening up equipment use caution and take your time. As a side note, you also void any warranty when opening up the mixer and if you have to take it to a repair shop they will either not work on it or charge extra if they feel it was opened. Hopefully you'll find a cold solder joint and get it fixed.

Glad it was helpful!

Great tip!

Great note regarding Phantom Power usage, Thanks!

Thanks for the info!

He discusses that at the very end of the video.

Yes, the majority of Adapters are AC to DC, and are replacing many of the AC to AC adapters as technology requires. We used AC adapters on many of our older camera systems, and some older control equipment. Newer camera systems are using AC to DC adapters now or POE (power over ethernet). Thanks for the question.

A video about audio with no audio. Interesting.

Your Subs are ok if they are not making any kind of grinding, scraping, flapping type of noise (if they basically sound good and are doing what they are supposed to be doing). You would only need to test with the 9V if they are not functioning (don't sound normal). Hope this helps.

@avcsstechworld Thank you. I had the sub amp tested by the manufacturer, and it's 100% good. They told me to test the woofers like you just did, but after I placed everything back in place is when I was told. The reason I had the amp tested was because it sounds less loud than the other identical sub. That's why I was wondering if it moves with test tones, do I still need to do the battery test?

I don't think the 9V battery test is needed at this point but you can try this kzbin.info/www/bejne/g6uwkoyDiaekoMk to see if the cone feels or sounds like it is rubbing / scratching (make sure you gently press in on the speaker cones). Have you tried swapping speaker channels (swap the cables to the opposite channel) to see if the problem moves?

@avcsstechworld Thank you. I swapped sub 1 input to sub 2 input on the avr and the same. Same with different cables. I'll try the gentle press and maybe the battery test even though it's a pain removing the plate again and disconnecting the wires from the woofers to test. Tight space but for peace of mind.

Without performing the test myself I couldn't really speculate on what is going on. I tested a 4-Pole Neutrik and it passed. Other than taking the connectors apart to see if something is loose, not sure I can be very helpful, sorry about that.

You can use any wire to "jumper" the connections as needed. When you make your jumper wire, make sure to twist the wires together before making the connections. As far as wires that are "tinned" it is not recommended to use them on any crimp type connection. Here is a video explaining why kzbin.info/www/bejne/gWKlcqunltWHnas hope this helps.

Without seeing exactly what you have, if all 8 indicators light up on the tester, the cable is good. If by chance the ground indicator does not light up there is most likely an issue. Hopefully this helps.

Yes, you are correct, thanks for the comment.

My pleasure

Thanks for watching anyway.

What’s the ideal number to aim for on the read? I’m getting 0.6 or .1 at times. Thank you for thé video and help.

.6 and or .1 are as close as you need to be to get a good measurement. Depending on the meter 000 is condidered a "dead short" and would be ideal. Your measurements look good. You don't want to see an "Open" circuit on any of the measurements. @@QuiqueEscamillaOfficial

Thanks for the comment.

I disagree. It's thorough.

I would suggest the following: 1. The AC setting is correct, but is there a actual voltage setting (such as 20V, 200V, etc) - if yes, set it to 200. 2. Is this an AC to AC Adapter or an AC to DC Adapter (sorry, without seeing the adapter I had to ask). 3. To make sure your meter is working correctly, check a wall circuit or a different adapter. If in fact this is an AC to AC adapter, and your meter works correctly, the Adapter is most likely defective as you should be getting 19VAC (or higher without a load). Hope this helps.

Sorry about that, here are the other videos that explain what all this means. kzbin.info/www/bejne/ZnawnZh4mrB5gbc kzbin.info/www/bejne/rKfYlIiJgJWJZ68 kzbin.info/www/bejne/q2q8aHuVed18Zrs Hopefully this will clear things up. Thanks for the feedback.

Awesome, thank you!