thank you

thank you for the tip, I'll give it ago, but I'm assuming this will be little bit more complicated when cleaning the chamber If you put nozzle on the oil tube, you would have to use pressure to inject the oil. Those are different type of burners, where you ignite the mist

I revert back to drop/manual control as during really cold weather the pump is not able to deliver enough oil

Thank you, the top is removable and I just use hoover to clean it.

To be honest I don't know, this 19l Propane tank

Thank you for your comment. The fuel pump is just something I tried, but it is really noisy and in cold temperature is not feedeing enough oil as the oil is really thick. Over the cold temperature I have went back to drop feed. The ratio is easy to follow, if the mixture is lean, the flame goes back to orange and the output temperature is much lower. However it is easy to overfeed it, it will run longer when you shut it off as it will burn through the oil left inside.

There is a big downside to your design and others like it if you want to close that garage door. The system is sucking fresh air from the room and pushing it out through the exhaust after burning. You would need some type of air makeup system. I would think of designing a heat exchanger with the exhaust to preheat an outside air intake for the burner and not cause a negative pressure in the room. This way your heating system is simply circulating and warming the room air.

@@rayleblanc7209 Nothing wrong in fresh air though is there? I mean if you hermetically seal up your house you will suffocate :( and Martins setup will heat the fresh air for practically free so not really a downside.

@@Moonlightshadow-lq4fr That might work for a wood burning stove that naturally draws it air. This system draws large volumes of air through the blower and pushes it up the chimney. It needs an exterior source of air to function properly.

@@rayleblanc7209 It's the same! Why are you being so negative ? Be nice to see your video of how the perfect setup would be, oh then again you have been on youtube since 2016 and not produced one single video ???? That's what I call a troll.

yes, 100% WMO

@@martinsdiy825, 👍

No propane gas added at all, just propane cylinder used. The point is not to burn the oil, but the oil vapor, which turns to blue during the burning process. in the video, you can see stage when it comes from yellow oil burning to the blue vapor burning. Or check one of the first videos, where I had only the fan and I added the oil just pouring in..

@@martinsdiy825 Sorry My Bad with the comment MDIY. Look forward to see more great videos from you Martin's. Thanks and peace too. !!

looks good, love to see more details

This was my original idea too, but this would make it little bit more complicated to take it apart

Hey Martin, Good to hear from you. I think it is much easier to take apart- its lighter, smaller, and gives the possibility of using a draft of a 13' chimney to run it instead of a blower. We are working on it. New video showing the parts and measurements soon. 😊

@@learn2farmagain30 Sounds good, I think the fan will allow you to adjust the combustion and heat output? Can wait to see more details unfortunately those things are nothing like you can read/learn about, but I noticed my heat output is related to the fan speed.

thank you

Thank you

Thank you, I do believe I have used the 19l propane tank: www.flogas.co.uk/product/19kg-propane-gas-cylinder#specification

There is another few videos: kzbin.info/www/bejne/e163hKR6rNaZf9E

Thank you Ross

yes, it does, any engine oil, cooking oil, etc

you can have it either way, I have decided to have the oil extra for 2 reasons, as it was still testing it was easier to adjust either oil or air side independently and secondly I didn't want the oil feed too high. As I'm now using the pump to feed the oil, it can go directly through the air tube

@@martinsdiy825 That will be cool to see!

yes, I can, but it always be sort of related to the cylinder you can have/use. I think there is no mandatory for the holes to be exactly that diameter or how far apart, but the air and fuel mixture will be more important.

Thank you for the comment, although I'm not sure what you mean by complete combustion? If you notice I can regulate the air and it is adjusted just to get the blue flame, which is much higher temperature burn, than the typical yellow flame. On the part 2 is complete design and trust me there is huge differences on the setup seen on the video and the yellow and blue flame. There are 2 points why to go to blue flame - it is using higher temperature than yellow and it is going directly to the side of the cylinder rather than up and to the chimney.

@@martinsdiy825 Complete combustion is when no more fuel is left. Say we are burning carbon with oxygen (no other elements present) . We get carbon dioxide and maybe carbon monoxide. Carbon monoxide is still flammable, so if enough oxygen is available it too will become carbon dioxide. Any extra oxygen left over after all the carbon has turned to carbon dioxide has nothing to react with and will not add heat. It will absorb heat and thus lower the temperature of the combustion gas. When we use air for combustion it has nitrogen etc. in it but only the oxygen is useful. Any extra air just absorbs heat, lowering the temperature of the exhaust gas. All that said, You may be greatly improving the heat transfer between the combustion gas and the the steel wall of the stove by agitating the gas with high speed air blowing. So the result is an improvement in the amount of heat that goes into the house and less goes up the chimney, even if the temperature of that combustion gas is lower due to the excess air.

@@martinsdiy825 By the way, I read about all this in a document called "Professional Guide to Oilheat - R.W. Beckett Corp." It is available as free pdf download at www.beckettcorp.com. A google search for the title will bring you right to the download link.

@@2OO_OK Thank you for explanation, I thought the flame color is what is giving us the burning or flame temperature. Just as example, if I'm burning with yellow flame I'm burning the oil on the top and the heat goes strait on the top, when changing to the blue flame I'm not burning the oil as in above situation, but more the oil vapor with much higher temperature giving the heat to the side of the cylinder. In first case too much air will be exactly going to the chimney, but using less air in my case will reduce the burning temperature and stage back to yellow flame. it would be really nice to talk about this in person....

@@2OO_OK Thank you, will try to have a look on this, but again, beckett is totally different type of burner and probably not related to what I'm trying to do.

Thank you, I will probably do few things differently if I would build another in future, but generally it works really well

thank you, it would be really interesting to see blue flame with NA, any details about your project?