I enjoy making them as a hobby and sharing ideas on here with other hobbyists. I work for a Japanese trading company and don't spend much time at a snooker hall. Sorry if you feel wound up. Have a good day:)

@@danielmarcbrooks568@danielmarcbrooks568 By the way, I wasn't referring you to a snooker hall dreg. I am from the UK, and if you ever go into a snooker hall during the day, it's full of non-working, or more accurately, work-shy layabouts.

Oh, I see. My apologies. That's too bad. Here in Canada, there aren't too many snooker clubs left. When I was growing up, there were a lot, and I guess some people did end up wasting a lot of time in them. I think we all just loved the game and were trying to get better at it. This work is admittedly time consuming and not for everyone. When I started, I couldn't find any information on how to do it without heavy-duty machine tools, so I just started experimenting and trying to share ideas. All the best from Canada:)

@@danielmarcbrooks568 Sorry if I was a bit quick on the draw; most unbecoming of me.

@@kevinsavage808 It's all good man:) Your comment is definitely a valid one and others have said the same. Still trying to figure out how to do things quicker and better. Cheers.

Awesome! I hope it goes well:) How do you find a black walnut shafted cue? I made two with black walnut shafts, but I find them a bit too whippy for play on a full-size snooker table. Cheers.

@@danielmarcbrooks568 for black walnut, both density and stiffness are slightly below ash, so when I picked the kiln dried piece from local lumber store, I stayed away from anything that's near to the center core. I would say lucky enough the black walnut shaft is quite comparable in terms of feedback from an ash cue.

@@danielmarcbrooks568 I also learned a lot from my 1st black walnut shaft when comes to offsetting the centers to get the best darts pattern out of the squared up bar. I first hand planed the bar from square to round so that the grain pattern will become more apparent. Then I offset the center on the end that will give me the best angle of the darts. From there I taper the round piece from the center on one end to the new center on the opposite end. The dart pattern on my hard maple shaft is pretty good.

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Cheers man! Appreciate your comment:)

You're right. A long straight edge is definitely an easier and better way to do it. I used the string because when I made my sixth cue, the one-piece black walnut cue I showed in part 1, it was the first time I tried the angled line approach, and I wasn't sure I could get a ruler five-plus foot in length. Before I checked online, I thought of using the string, and it worked really well. That cue turned out quite straight, so I decided to use the same approach this time as well. Some people might want to make a longer one-piece cue, and the string works well. That's a clever idea about the pencils. I should be more attentive to sharpening my pencils, and my tools for that matter! Cheers:)

@@danielmarcbrooks568 all good brother! if string works then no issue! I would personally use a ruler just as long as the piece i'm working with. we do it for guitar necks in luthiery as they cannot be out of tolerence no matter what. you can even use a known straight peice of material (plywood cut at the hardware store etc) as a straightedge. just make sure it is true :)

@@danielmarcbrooks568 i sharpen my pencils like a chisel with a flat bottom rather than a V shape, much more sutible for scribing. personal preference

@@Jamieip Cheers man. I actually did try using my planing bed as a straight edge before I thought of the string, but even though it was a pre-cut bit of pine from the hardware store, neither of the sides were true, so I couldn't use it. Snooker cues can actually be a bit wonky (even though the professional ones never are) and it doesn't affect play, just looks bad. Musical instruments though, I can totally understand the need for precision there. Amazing how you guys make those things so well. I watched a number of videos by instrument makers when I was trying to learn how to use the tools. Quite remarkable. All the best, and thanks again for the advice:)

@@danielmarcbrooks568 I’ve never made a cue and it’s my next goal! I’m glad to have the instrument background but I can’t get my head around something as long and turned as a cue lol!

Thanks:) Yes, others have mentioned that about the name plate. I have made a few more cues since this one, and have made quite a few improvements, including embedding the name plate. All the best.

Sorry for my tardy reply. I actually just buy my cue tips. I buy Elk Masters, as they've always served me well. Cheers:)

Cheers man:)

Cheers. I'm in the process of making a much longer and more detailed series on how to make a two-piece snooker cue with limited equipment and no planing bed. I think it will be a lot more helpful than anything I've done so far. All the best:)

@@danielmarcbrooks568 أوووه نعم أتمنى ذالك حظا موفق

No, I'm just a hobbyist. They take too much time and effort to make for it to be worthwhile selling them.

Thanks for replying and fairplay for a hobbyist you got skills. All the best buddy

Thanks. To you as well!

I'm a beginner woodworker, and I read that acetone helps to remove surface oils from woods like wenge, which can interfere with gluing. To be honest though, I'm not sure if it's really necessary. All the best.

Thanks! No, I'm just a hobbyist. All the best:)

Obrigado! Boa sorte!

@@danielmarcbrooks568 amigo.como é feito o processo daqueles tacos handmade coloridos aquilo é realmente madeira ou uma espécie de resina colorida ?.falo daquelas partes verde vermelha amarela que colocam nas bases dos tacos como acabamento

Thanks man. Wish it were straighter though:)

Hi. Thanks for your kind words. I've made a few cues since this one, but they've all been two-piece, 3/4 jointed cues, which I've found are a lot easier to make. All of them are straighter. This one is special to me though, because it was the first and the only one that's one piece. I did try to straighten it myself a few months ago, but was unsuccessful. Perhaps one day I'll be able to find a professional who can do it for me. Sounds like you've got a nice collection. Do you live in the UK or Australia? I imagine there are quite a few experts in either country who can do a nice job on that Lindrum cue for you. Was it made in Australia? All the best:)

Cheers. I'm not sure. It's very light though. Maybe 13 ounces? All the best:)

:)

Thanks:) It's Maple, wenge and purple heart.

Thanks man. I'm glad you liked it:)

I'm updating my response here, because recently I've had more opportunity to play on the proper 72-square foot snooker tables. The lighter ferrules are applicable in snooker I think, but more so for center-ball striking on long pots. Side is not an issue because you always have to compensate for deflection when playing with side, it's just a matter of degree of aim compensation. You're not aim compensating at all when striking the ball in the center because you're assuming you won't have to. If you aren't absolutely precise, a slightly heavier ferrule like the one I've used will be more likely to affect the long-distance travel of the cue ball if you just slightly miss striking its center. So I think you're correct. Overall, it's probably better to use a lighter ferrule for snooker I think. I'm no longer using these Thick coupling nuts for my ferrules. Cheers:)

Cheers:)

Hi. Thanks, but unfortunately I can't make any to sell, as it takes me too long to make one. The videos are really just to share ideas with fellow hobbyists. All the best.

Cheers man:)

Sure. Good luck with yours:)

@@danielmarcbrooks568 mission started 😄, I am using black walnut for the main shaft and Macassar Ebony for the butt. Just 3d printed 11 rests for planning the main shaft. Black walnut is slightly less stuff than ash, hope it will work out. Waiting for my tools to arrive and will start to take pictures and videos to document the process.

Well good luck with it. I did a couple with black walnut more recently. One is a pool cue and the other is an upside-down snooker cue (black walnut for the shaft and ash for the butt). Those videos are on my channel as well, so they might give you an idea of what black walnut will look like. Much easier to work with as well. Cheers. @@boscoxchan

How I can share my work in progress pictures with you?

Hey man. Why don't you post your slideshow here on KZbin? Leave the link to your video as a reply to this comment. That way, all the folks who are following this can see what you've done. I'm looking forward to seeing your cue mate! @@boscoxchan

Thanks man:) My top break is only 46, so nothing to write home about. But I love the game. All the best!

Hi. Thanks for your comments. This was only intended to be a one-piece, as I am a beginner and didn't want to make things too difficult. I did make a 3/4-jointed two-piece cue after this one, using a nut and bolt for the joint, but I wouldn't risk damaging this one, and I prefer playing with a one-piece cue anyway. I clamped the wood very tightly when I glued all the pieces together, so there wasn't any movement. I've been using it for about 18 months now, and I've had no issues with the joints. Perhaps that could be an issue if the cue were kept or used frequently in a warmer, more humid environment. I'm not sure. I don't actually know too much about woodworking. I've just always been fascinated with snooker cues and have wanted to try making my own since I was a kid. Back in the days before the internet, snooker-cue making was a very secretive industry, and even today there is very little information on how to do it entirely by hand. All the best:)

Hi. I made the base of the jig with a small piece of very smooth plywood. Because it is plywood, it is already perfectly parallel top and bottom. I also cut the small base square from the edge of the original piece of plywood, so the edges were already perfectly perpendicular to the flat top and bottom. The mirrors were cut from the mirrored bit of flexible plastic stuck on the back of a cheap smartphone case bought at a dollar store. Glue your mirrors to the edges of the plywood base and check with a t-square to make sure they are perpendicular. The struts holding the vice pieces were made from hardwood, but the vice pieces have to be made from much softer wood, like pine or spruce. This is important because they need to squeeze tightly against the cue shaft without slipping. The softwood vice pieces will actually compress slightly against the hardwood of the cue without damaging or marking the cue. Hardwood vice pieces will slip slightly, either while tightening the wing nuts or while drilling. They can also mark the cue shaft. It is essential that when tightened, the plywood base is completely flat all the way around the end of the cue. Hold it up to the light to check. Even the tiniest sliver of light means that it is off straight, and the hole will not be straight if you get the drill-bit reflections perfectly parallel. This jig was just an experiment, and you may be able to improve on it by playing around with some other ideas. The real key, however, is actually getting the cut line (when you cut your cue) perfectly perpendicular all the way around. This was something I could not figure out how to do, and as a result, my cue is not perfectly straight at the joint (almost, but not quite). It does not need to be absolutely straight, and even if it isn't, it won't adversely affect your cue action, but the straighter you can get it the better.

@@danielmarcbrooks568 thanks for the reply!

@@fnaah_au No problem. Thanks for watching, and good luck with your cue. Please let me know if you figure out how to cut a one-piece cue perpendicular without a lathe or machine tool. Of course, if you know you're making a two-piece right off the hop (unlike me), then you can make things much easier and less wasteful by simply making the top and bottom separately to begin with. All the best.

@@danielmarcbrooks568 i''m actually hoping to replace a shaft, so that's not a problem i have to deal with just yet. :)

Hi, thanks. Unfortunately this cue is not for sale. I only made two, and the purpose of the videos was just to give people some ideas on how to make snooker cues with limited tools and space. Cheers:)

Thanks man. I don't know much about carpentry myself, to be honest, but this was a fun project.

Hi. Thanks for your kind words. Glad you enjoyed them. This was the first time I tried to make a two-piece cue, so there was a lot of trial and error. If you do decide to make a cue like this, I would recommend practising with scrap wood to make dowels first (you can see that in the mini-butt part in the last video). Also, I made a mistake in part 6. When I used the little wooden dowel to align the top and bottom pieces at the start of that video, I only checked that the gap was parallel all the way around from one position. I should have incrementally rotated the bottom all the way around and kept checking that the gap was still parallel. If you don't, the joint might not come together straight when you screw your cue together. Good luck with yours, and thanks again for commenting:)

@Daniel Marc Brooks Your welcome and thanks again for the videos

@@danielmarcbrooks568where did you buy the thread from to join to cue parts together would love to make my own cue

Thanks man:)

Cheers man:)