This is so awesome. Thank you for sharing it! Is it possible to use shape case to make an asymmetric design, for example a mug with a handle?

I think this will become a new hobby for me 🙂

To reduce bubbles you should use a small form vibrator. Also when I started doing this many years ago in the 1980's we would just take plaster slurry and smooth it into the bubble holes before it cured. We would use ether a sponge or a paint brush if out hand could fit to apply the slurry.

I used a couple of the methods from a few of your videos and it worked well. I printed a model and lined the seams with the foam, I then used the tuck tape around the seams and then used binder clips for extra sealing pressure. There were no leaks! I may try without the tape to see if the foam gasget and binderclips are enough! Thanks! Loving Shape Cast!

Hi, did you use frit 3124 instead of 3134 on purpose?

Thank you Kent for sharing your knowledge❤

Great looking pots. There's definitely a unified aesthetic with the handles. Would love to know the glaze recipes, especially the hare's fur and the pink crimson. Best wishes and happy NY.

Thanks for sharing your results, Ken. I will have to look into this FIRST FIVE glaze concept! Congratulations on the new space!

Have you ever happened to try making a 3D printed mold and then making clay slip casts directly from that? edit found your episode on that. Thanks fun videos!

Tit.DiOxide is not opacifier. It is used as an white colorant.

Beautifully described sir I learnt so much for your video really Thanks so much I intend to try it out someday. I wanted to learn this and you described it SO well.

Good video! Reminds me of IMCO Dragonfruit clay, which is a porcelain clay body with ilmenite included for speckling. I have seen some advice to sand the bisqueware to reveal more of the speckling underneath. That might have been needed on these samples. It appears somewhere from 4-8% would emulate that clay perfectly. IMCO's results look similar, but I think their results look cleaner/more pronounced because of that sanding.

Just found your channel! Ive been binging all of your videos. I am quite the 3d printing enthusiast as well as have developed a love of ceramics over the past few years. Im printing the small cup mold off of your website right now to give it a shot! A couple of questions for you. Are you interested in selling your STL files for the mug handle molds? Do you have any links for the type of plaster and slip supplies that you use? Thanks! Love this new project I have!

Very good series! I currently work on a slip casting mold for dinner plates based off the Chunky plate desing by Gustaf Westmann. Your advice helps a lot!

I would be very interested in trying this out. I just did my firts mold and found the insert placement and bolting to be very tedious and time consuming. That being said i am loving ShapeCast and it is working well! Thank you so much!

Thanks for the video. I must try some slip casting soon.

3D printed mold PLA. Gypsum casting. Any thoughts about the release options: Pancoating spray, Apel Mold Release or just soap based... thx Kent.

That was a great tutorial on mold making incorporating a 3d printer. The concept excites me and it's the perfect excuse to jump into 3d printing. I like the way you go about things. Very workmanlike.

I recently ran just short of enough dry plaster to make a new mold. After some quick checking I found that I could augment the mix with diatomaceous earth, which some people use 100% for making what I'm sure are not as durable as pure plaster. Have there been any studies about plaster/DE combinations. I wonder since DE is so nicely water absorbent.

really great inspiration - i started designing my own molds thanks to you. Something i'm playing with is having the bottom flange attached to the inner shell, with the outer shell having the flange towards the inner shell laying on top of it. when pouring the buoyancy of the inner shell presses the two flanges together and seals them without needing to clamp at the bottom. the devil is in the detail though - demolding might be trickier since the flange from the outer shell lies between the plaster and the flange of the inner shell. maybe the idea helps for future iterations, keep it up!

Was hoping to see if slip works in a silicone mould 😢

Love your videos. Been subscribed for awhile and glad of it.

The main point is don’t rely on the slicer but design it into your stl files so it will always be there independent of the slicer used.

I have an example photo if you are interested. I don’t know how to attach to these comments

if you want to address the lifting corners and dont want to use brims which are messy design a feature called Mickey Mouse ears that attaches to your piece right where it lifts and can be easily broken off

Can't say I fully understand your use case, but I can say that it would be muuuuuch easier to model that mold in Fusion360 or Onshape. I prefer Onshape myself. Both has free tiers.

It seems the bending might be through warping off the pint bed. You could try adding a brim or a mousefoot there.

Kent, could you go into more detail about the technology behind Shape Cast? Based on the floating point issues with the meshes that you described, it sounds like you would benefit from switching to CAD software that uses a “boundary representation” internally and just exports meshes at the end. There are some open source kernels for this such as OpenCascade (C++ but with bindings available in other languages including WASM/JS), not sure if you’re using something like that already.

Thank you for explaining this process and doing the testing. You explained this very well! 😊

1. What clay to be used for making slip casting ? 2. Please make a video on preparing liquid clay for casting slip.

Can you please tell what clay is used for making slip casting

Do you ever run into issues from the heat from the plaster during curing warping your 3D printed parts?

❤Kent hi, wondering if u can help!!!..This is GAIL, from Indianapolis, Indiana..Im trying to pour slup into ceramic mold J1566,from CLAY MGIC MOLDS Its a balarina.The problem is when iI take the body out its on a platform already, what device can I make to hold it in place to dry and hold the head in place also??..Please help!!!

Hey Kent, when will it be possible to buy a 3d model of this mold and will there be different sizes?

What 3d printer you use?

Another great video, have you tried adding threads or threaded inserts into the narrow part of the handle to make it easier to remove? Even just a central rib so you can grab it with the pliers.

I’m getting a 3D printer for Christmas (I think) and hope to jump in on doing some of these projects with you! 👏🏼

I really appreciate these videos and this project. I am hoping to get started one day! Thanks for putting in the work!

With such a small part as the handle, I wonder if it would work well to mill the shape out of a block of plaster. It might be possible to avoid chipping and flashing entirely that way, and the time to iterate on a design could be shorter as you could keep some plaster bricks on hand.

I use empty 3d print spools as a triming chuck for thin necked vases. I stack them up as high as needed and use those binder clips all around to hold them together.

I use a similar design but without the multiple grooves. I apply melted beeswax to the outside seams to seal it. Add melted wax using a foam brush in a circle around the base, then two vertical lines on the sides. Add on a couple binder clips then hit with a heat gun to partially remelt into the gaps. Works great for making one or a few molds as it is so quick to design and 3D print.

Neat mold! You can also add printed text for reference as - Part # - Assembly # - Internal volume - Customer name Even text that transfer to your molded part. As for the grooves/bumps profile, I would just do 90deg V at 45 for printing ease. Maybe do a support base in order to clear the binder clip to have a stable mold. If you go bigger, bigger C-clamps 🗜️, quick-grip can be used. Straps, belt, rope, tie-wrap could be used too. Cheers

You can also 3d print some clips and they will be stiffer

Very nice and informative video!

Brilliant thank you

What infill and wall thickness do you design too? I’m always worried about warping

looking at the slip mugs, and the slip tumbler, they look nice. Honestly, if you got the skills, I'd wanna see how they look with pulled handles. On another note, why not put plaster in the dehydrator/oven? It'll fall apart at metal casting temp when it hits water, but I don't *think* it'll disintegrate at lower temps of like 250 (125ish) tops. However, I could be wrong about that.

why is the inner mold separate from the ring, if I may ask? is it just because of volume limitation? if so, maybe test the option of combining the ring to the inner mold? also those seals look pretty good. I'd see about whether or not you can get the lock a bit more sticky by making the depth taller compared to the width... or width of the waves thinner compared to the height... and if you can, on the sides of the waves, push super slightly to an interference fit, so the sides of the waves seal, and the crests and troughs don't open the flashing gaps through interference.

20:16 would ultrasonic cleaner work?

Rather than tapping at 15:34 touch your sifter or drill to side and run for a little.