@@user-po9ps8xt7f I have to be honest, it stopped working. I think it's because the APIs have been depreciated with newer android models. It's been a couple of years and the unit runs, but it's stuck at an old version of android.. it says 8, but really is 7. I would go the RSNAVI route, it's $700, but the support for it is really good. I would upgrade to it, but don't drive the vehicle enough and not going to get another AUDI, it was a dieselgate diesel and Audi refused to honor the warranty.

if you get a FM lower (or another with the BHO on the lower) and an upper with a cam pocket, its easier.

@@jomez100 glad you made it work :-)

Looked at the manual. Its more simple, because the controller that you replace doesn't have the phase shifting capacitor or the switch for direction in it. You will need two hots (like 14/3 or 12/3 romex) from the wall plate to the fan. The two hots will just go directly to where the controller outputs were, the Neutral (white) will be same as the instructions. One funky think about the Lutron wall controllers, you have to have a working circuit for the lights or the fan will be disabled (so the fan will not work until you have a bulb installed in the fan and wired.)

@@ChuckMorton thanks for the info! I didn’t know that about the Lutron switch either. Thanks a lot!

@@derekpeters1809 I think they need a circuit complete so it can skim off the AC to power the internal electronics.

Check the angle at which your mag sits as well as the height. The barrel extension has the cutout for the single stack feeding and the round should align up with this well. The mag stop (repurposed ejector) helps me keep the angle optimal and it could we pushing the angle of the bullet down too far if there is Freeplay in the magwell.

Hmm, my best guess with limited knowledge is the CLWFS is pulsing the fan's controller and the rapid transient power is shortening the life of the fan controller components, if you open one up, I suspect a cap will be bulged from being cycled rapidly. My guess is that the cap for the second coil phase shift are within the controller. I would use the biggest cap in there for the secondary coil voltage phase shift (will be the higher resistance of the 2 coil windings). It would be similar to the schematic seen around 16:40 in the video and the cap is the only required component from the fan controller.

Schematic is at 16:40 in video, that plus the rest of the video should be enough if you are mechanically inclined. I used the capacitor on the controller board it came with (big blue one). You can simplify the design by not having the switch and have the fan rotate one direction only. Good luck.

OEM style as they have the thinnest lips (Glock, KCI ECT). Magpuls have thicker lips, and these are similar to ETS polymer. I was able to set the mag height limit and use the BHO to hold the feed lips slightly depressed so they do not get gorged by the bolt lugs (vs shaving the bottom lugs down). I am going to try and make the dissent upper sometime next month

@@ChuckMortonNice, I hope to see it. Thanks for the reply

Never made videos or instructions. From memory, the light driver in the controller housing is not designed to work with a lot of energy, so it's limited to 15 watts or you wil overheat it. Since I bypassed the controller, it's not an issue. What I did is remove the last piece of metal in the housing that the light connects to. I used a wide and flat that better distributed the color, but I think it used 20 watts. To secure it I drilled pilot holes into the metal housing and used machine screws to hold the light in place. I will have to find the particular model I used and a picture of it if you give me a contact email (or throwaway email to avoid spam). I won't be able to do it until the weekend probably The problem is that the Chinese supplier swapped out 1600 lumens with 1300 lumens and Hunter was not aware, but they spent no effort in getting the 1600 lumen back.

The lights I installed are Satco s9781

Sorry, didn't see this until today, was in Africa and forgot to reply when I came home to burst water pipes.... - both units have help up well and don't see any issues. Just make sure the cut the exact amount needed (2x the shortened length of the guide rod). One thing I did was sand the edge so it doesn't wear the slide quickly. The garage doors themselves are 30 years old so they need be replaced soon. and have to decide to keep the older style extension springs or update them (space permitting)

Glad it helped you!

It looks like you wrote this while having a stroke, hope you are ok.

??

They work well but more expensive and you get that extra space. The only think i don't like about torsion springs is that they are almost always sided small. so they are under twists and shorter life. My garage is fairly low so torsion springs would be a very tight squeeze. I hooked up an old chain one in a side configuration years ago for a friend who had a lift in his garage, there are a couple of videos if doing that, but I don't recommend it as I didn't have a disconnector, I had to remove the chain to do it. It was hooked up to a UPS backup as well as it was the days before battery backups in openers. I will take the easy solution every time!

Thanks for saying it helped :-), it's what I like to hear. Hopefully the smaller length didn't reduce door movement.

@@ChuckMorton I did lose about 5 inches of height , and I also drilled a new hole for the safety stop relocating it closer to the motor to give me more door height

@@here-i-am2316 that paralleled my exact situation. The first side I am down about an inch after modification, but on the other side I allowed it to angle down slightly since the mirror housing rear has a bottom part that does nothing but was able to clear my obstacle (ductwork & drywall) and can still open the door). If I replace the doors in a few years I may switch to one of those side mounted openers, though there is not enough ceiling clearance to use the area where the belt resides for me.

There is some range video at the end. Mechanically it is a simple cycle and the video is made to show people how to do the work and not for views.

@@ChuckMorton gas rate and buffer wieght can be identifed by the bolts behavior and round ejection just saying in future vids try geting side view during shooting.

With the RDB it depends on bolt ejection, a carbine weight works in my setup. If I shoot heavier 147s and a can, I do put in an h2

So it comes off and on now about a year later. I was reading somewhere if you fold it over it will just detect as being occupied and another that the wires themselves become loose due to stress. I need to revisit this. Also write to the NTBS to tell them that yours is failing, might have an actual recall.

I always appreciate it when someone notes the PH reference. The only time I helped him is with Steelcase x39, and that Wolf was just an secondary buyer from difference factories, and its the headstamp that really tells the source of that ammo. Snooped and saw your Tavor 12 issue, have one myself, did you find that screw and fix it?

@@ChuckMorton Yep. But I don't take it out much, once I really scrutinized the design and saw how non-robust the engineering was. Such as optic rail not being mated to the barrel axis, like an AR upper. Note the plastic handguard serves as an optical alignment component near the front jesus nut.

Typically it's the largest physical size one. For example, In pull chain types, there are multiple capacitors in the cap box and the pull chain changes the path through one or several of them as you change speeds. The smaller 25v is for DC control electronics. A large 68 uF seems like it has too much capacitance as I have only seen 2-7 uF in all ceiling fans, so I think that the 4.7 is the right range. The only issue is that it is usually the physically largest capacitor, unless there is a mechanical separator for the starting winding. On my controller, the biggest piece attached to the circuit board was the capacitor. Your controller may look like things from Reddit. In that case, the black cap to the right (not in controller) is the starting cap and already part of the circuit. www.reddit.com/r/askanelectrician/comments/j1f1l7/can_i_bypass_this_ceiling_fan_controller/ www.dekielectronics.com/fan-motor-capacitors.php#:~:text=Normally%20fan%20motor%20run%20capacitors,370%20V%20or%20440%20V..

My Hunter controller looks very similar to the one in the video. It is a 70” fan. Is there a way if I got you a pic of the board you would be able to tell? If so how could I get that to you? The 4.7uf is the smallest cap on the board.

Look at the video at 15:10, the controller is there and the big blue plastic piece is the capacitor I needed. It doesn't look like a typical capacitor

I do not see any type of larger cap like that. Any other suggestions?

I don't know the wiring polarity of the coils and wire coloring scheme offhand. In the following link there are pictures with how the circuit will look much simplified in two pictures. Assuming that blowing air down is what it wanted, I think the left diagram would be more likely than the right diagram. If it spins the wrong way, the difference is a simple switch of one of the coils between your Hot Line and Neutral as shown on the opposite side. Hunter does have a schema standard but doesn't publish it, someone else may know. diy.stackexchange.com/questions/35852/how-do-i-re-wire-a-ceiling-fan-to-reverse-its-direction

Awesome thank you!!!

It's ok, there are better options out there. It won't connect to do the passenger sensor alignment

Glad it's useful, I ripped out the one from the controller. I think it is 3.3 uF. If you go too high, it will increase max speed but apply more current than rated. Lower capacitance will decrease max speed.

Sweet, i didnt even think about that but that makes it easy. If i dont create the reverse switch. Its just simply bypassing the controller with the starting cap inline for just the fan? And the correct wires for the lights?

@@brycebutzine8928 yep, simplifies the circuit, but will only spin in one direction. I haven't used reverse here at all. The ends of the primary coil connects to hot and neutral return to neutral. The ends of the secondary coil also to hot and neutral, but the capacitor sits on between secondary coil and either the hot or neutral. This causes the phase shift that causes the difference in fields. If you measure the resistance of the coils, the one with more resistance should be the secondary coil.

That was kind of my thought, i havent used any of the reverses i have so doubt its something i need. Thanks for the detail on the second part!

The first has a dead touch screen, this one has been working well.

@@ChuckMorton is the sound from navigation and phonecalls through a separate speaker or through the car sound system?

@@jiggijames8990 sound good through the fiber Aux and it's commander by the CAN bus to automatically do it. I use the cars Bluetooth for calls, so never set it up There is a mic on it that is used when I do voice to text (like in Google maps) and I assume this is the same one if you set up Bluetooth for the phone in the device

@@ChuckMorton so you say you can use the cars usual Bluetooth Audi menu setup for calls? And the sound is as usual? That would be okay for me. Least thing I want is a new setup and a navigation and phone call sound through a tiny speaker

It's a height difference between blowback and CMMG RDB in mag height. Both use a carrier with almost the same dimensions of a regular delayed blowback AR15 carrier. The locking lugs in RDB go lower than the direct blowback lowest point.

I bought mine off of AliExpress, you have to make sure that it is the correct mmi version. The best supported one through rsnav.com, kinda pricey at $760 but fully integrated into the 4L Q7.

Thanks much for your reply and advice, really appreciate it.

I was able to work from the top only except the jack and stand on the oil pan. There isn't much room to get all the old gasket off (very important plus making sure not FOD is in it) and I had to feel the best to make sure it was seated in the crank. I have fairly large hands (wear XL gloves) so most people should be able to do this without issue.

Why so glum?

Leta take an opportunity of your poorly constructed insult to learn something. The secondary purpose of the ejector plate (not a pin like a Glock, since you are uppity) is a mag travel stop. This keeps the mag from coming up too high and the feed lips getting smashed by the Bolt. Aero and other DBB designers use this to allow for a beveled mag catch. As it no longer ejects for RDB as it's done with an ejector spring like the most common AR BCGs.l, the secondary name is given as it's the sole function. You won't find these in CMMG Banchees but the mags are slightly harder to seat. I suggest you watch more Project Farm and less of that silly stuff.

Thanks, I was surprised how easily the seat covering came off and how easy it was to replace. If you try this, there are metal retainers buried in the recesses on top of the seat cushionette can be ripped out of the foam really easily when separating the top. The backup plan was just to rip it out, replace and recalibrate it.

I feel your pain because its a great looking setup for smaller rooms. If the issue is loosing the remote, I think the 99815 Universal Fan Wall Control can fit your need, you just have to pair it within 3 minutes of power I think (and contact hunter to confirm this). The things I didn't like was that it was AAA powered (Lazy engineering by Hunter, but I was just going to put in a AC-DC power supply in the gang box) and the style and UI isn't great (the lady of the house didn't like it and I agreed, the Lutron Maestro looks a lot better and the buttons you want to push the most are the large ones). The good thing about this, is that you don't need two hot wires from the gang box to the drop (Black (hot 1)/Red (hot 2)/White (return)/Copper(ground)) If you don't need to switch the direction of the fan (we almost never run it in reverse, maybe even never outside of just showing that it works), then the hardest part of the mod is gone. You will still need the the dual hot Romex (like 14/3) wires in the run to switch from wall power. Doing this will make the hardest part getting to the controller and breaking the controller up for the large blue phase shift cap (unless you buy one with the same Capacity/Rating). Funny thing is Dempsey is owned by Hunter. Hopefully you have a solution that you like.

Hi Matt, You first must have two hot wires coming in from the switch to the fan mount. This is usually the Romex 14/3 black/red/white/copper wires. One of these lines would have to go to the controller the other one would go to the light itself. The controller makes it convenient for those with 14/2 wires black/white/copper, as there is the split in the controller. If you have 14/3 wire, then one hot one would go to the hot side of the controller and the hot one attached to the switch, would go to the light hot, which is usually a blue wire. They also might make a remote controller that sticks into the wall at the switch position. This may be the easiest solution.

Thank you. I will give it a shot! Just to clarify, would neutral from the light still connect into the controller? Sorry if stupid question. We are replacing dual switch fans with existing 14/3 wire. I have been very confused for days why the instructions would account for a dual switch install with how these fans are now intended to operate! I bought a few of those Hunter wall remotes, but would prefer to try to make it work with my existing wall switches for lights due to how many fans we are replacing / the cost of their proprietary wall remote. $80 each here in Canada. Thanks again!

@@matthewp7425 the neutral from the light should be attached to the neutral from the 14/3 Romex along with the neutral from the controller.

Thank you very much! I left white connected to controller and only bypassed blue. Working fine now. Thanks again!

@@matthewp7425 awesome! looks like the white light's white wire connects to the return in the controller

if you have the controller inside the fan, use the same value of capacitor as the largest physical cap in it. If you do not have it then you will have to know some specs of the fan and use the following formula C(µF) = (P(W) x η x 1000) / (V(V) x V(V) x f) η is usually not give, but it is power efficiency. η = Po/Pi, which is power output/power input Pretty much all ceiling fans will have 1-10 uF Caps, with the most common being 2.2-4.5 uF range. A Good video, but he is approximating efficiency and using 50 hz/ 220 as he is based in India. kzbin.info/www/bejne/m2SyaH2ZapKJl8U

Nope, as it's getting RDB working in receivers designed for direct blow back. Adding cam pocket & lowering the position of the magazine.

@@ChuckMorton so if I got an FM lower and a dedicated ar9 upper, this should work right off the bat? Trying to build a couple ar45s and an ar9 and I'd prefer the RDB system over BB.

@@0dirty FM lower still requires lowering the mag seating position for RDB and the BHO engagement bar. A regular AR-15 upper includes the cam pocket, but you want the larger ejection port to reduce FTEs. Gibbz and Aero make oversize ejection ports (usually for socom and Beowulf)

@@ChuckMorton I have regular AR15 uppers I can mill a larger ejection port into, and the socom upper doesn't cost much at all. The lower seems to be a sticking point when going 45acp.

@@0dirty the lowers are either 9/.40 or 10/.45 for the Glock mags. I imagine the .45 lower has the same issue of the magazine hitting the RDB Bolt Carrier as well as the bolt lugs in the 9mm version. Going FM lower is a good way to minimize modifications and training the BHO feature. The Aero (BA) 9mm barrels suck and glad I am not using them.

Just wanted android and a better interface. Some older model q7s have their rear amp fry due to leaky sunroof drains, but like older than 2010

Quick question, from the ceiling is there Black (hot 1) Red (hot 2) white (neutral/return) and Green/naked (ground) or just 3 wires total? In a proper setup you should have this and a lot of people are improperly using the ground as a neutral wire in 14/2 romex. Best to keep in code and its a lot safer since ground is a better path for a hot line than you and it may involve replacing the run from the 1 gang to the ceiling drop with 14/3 romex so you have the safer circuit. The advice below are offered without warranty and if beyond your capability, hire someone. Be careful no matter what. The light is the easy part, white should be attached the the Neutral and the Blue attached to the Light (Hot Light). You probably know this already. The harder part is connecting the Fan. The setup is probably Black to one winding, red to second winding, white to where the windings are tied together. The way to check this is a DMM. Measure Red to Black, this should be the Highest resistance, maybe a 150-250 ohms. Measure Red to White and Black to White. It should be REDtoWhite+BlacktoWhite = RedtoBlack then this is the circuit. RED---uuuuuuuuuuu-------WHITE-------uuuuuuuuu---Black , where --- is wire and uu is the induction coil. If this is the case, we probably need to add a capacitor to shift the phase. In the controller is there a large capacitor? This will have to be put in the path of one of the coils, called the starting coil. It is always less turns and smaller wire (less inductance and higher resistance). This cap, or one with same uF capacitance and rated for enough voltage (usually 250v), will have to be placed between red or black wire (whichever has more resistance to white) and the fan hot from the ceiling. The other red or black is tied directly to the fan hot from the ceiling so the 3 are tied together, but one through the cap . White is tied to neutral and the other white directly. Don't use a higher value of capacitor, it will make it go faster, but the coils were not designed for the extra current. This may burn them our or worse cause a fire. I explain this all in the video. The capacitor may also be inside if you read resistance from red/black to white and open from the other red/black to white. In this case measure capacitance from the open red/black to white. good resource on how single phase motors and shifting of a leg of the phase techniques in motors. www.lmphotonics.com/single_phase_m.htm