I would definitely pull the baseboard off the wall and check for mold behind it. Sounds as though water got under the cabinet and seeped through the wall, which most likely wicked up into the drywall and may have resulted in mold developing. If there is mold you'll need to replace the affected drywall. Also, while you have the wall opened up place a fan to flow in there to help dry out any moisture that may still exist. Thanks for watching and drop a comment on how it goes.

Not sure why it didn't play for you... i clocked it and it played fine.. here's the link to it kzbin.info/www/bejne/pIWUnX1miL6keJI Maybe was just a glitch with KZbin at the time. Thanks for bringing it to my attention and for watching.. uh, trying to watch.

Most flappers don't have a "setting". The 2" I like from FluidMaster does, as well as some of the 3" flappers. In my opinion most of the 3" flappers close way too quickly, but that's what they're designed to do to keep that water saving rating of 1.28 gpf, since they let so much more water out quicker than a 2" flapper. If you watch this video of mine I go over proper flapper installation and adjustment. kzbin.info/www/bejne/rpnbfGV_fNWWpLs I know it's not what you wish for, but hopefully it helps a little. Do you have a 2" or 3" flapper? thanks for watching

@@thewoggerswaydiy I got the complete fluidmaster toilet tank repair kit with 2" adjustable flapper. It is set at 9 by default. I am looking at the bowl and I feel that the water gushing time is too long. It think it will waste a lot of water. I set the flapper at 5 and you have about 1 second of gushing after the bowel is empty. I have not found any videos on the proper length of time for gushing water in the bowl.

If it's gushing water due to a leak in the tank, then you'll just need to drain it. You won't be able to create a vacuum if the tank isn't sealed. Just turn off the valve on the cold inlet side of the tank, open a faucet or the TPR valve on the top of the tank and let it drain. The nice thing about the drain valves, is they're the same size.. 3/4" pipe thread. Go to your hardware store or big box retailer and you can buy a new drain valve. Good luck and drop a comment on how it went and thank you for watching. Greatly appreciated.

Thank you so much for the kind words! I strive to make my videos as helpful and easy to understand as possible. Doesn't always happen but I try. Now where do I send you a check for the compliment? lol

Love the Iron Maiden reference. Thanks for watching and subscribing.. greatly appreciated and glad your toilet is working well again.

Glad it was a success and you saved yourself some work! You're a brave first-time home buyer. Well water is hard on systems.. if you don't have one, make sure to get a whole house water treatment system installed. Thanks for watching an congratulations on your first home.

My pleasure. Also check out my recent video on cleaning out the discharge hose without removing any of the hoses. Video at: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5rTkoWOpdSerrs Thanks for watching and the nice comment.

I hope they're all under the sink otherwise someone has done some creative drain plumbing. Hahaha. Yeah, disposals, or garburators, as known in Canada, are not as common as here in the US. Some cities in Canada even bant them. I have an extensive Canadian family network in Canada, most who think we're strange for having disposals.. the rest just think I'm strange anyway. Thanks for watching.

That's awesome! It's a rewarding feeling when a project comes to a successful completion. Thanks for watching

Thanks for the kind words. Good luck with your project!

Glad it could help and saved you some money, thanks for the nice comment.

No, thank you for watching. Greatly appreciated.

Thanks for the kind words! Hope it goes smoothly for you.

Good comment... yes, if the steps in the video don't solve your problem you should have your drain pipes scoped for issues, especially on older homes that may have old drain systems, like cast iron. Great comment. Thanks for watching.

To make it easy, just take the water out of the bowl.. pour some CLR or vinegar down the overflow tube after taping off the rim jets. Let it sit overnight.. remove the tape.. give the rim jets and siphon jet a good piling and cleaning and hopefully you'll be all set. It's not always a "one size fits all" process, which is why I explain how everything works and how to determine your course of action. Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects.

No good secret.. just good luck. Luckily in the last 15 years I've only had 2 plastic ones break off. That's why I always have the vent pipe on standby to catch the water and direct it safely outside if the valve does break. Thanks for watching. Wish I had a magic tip for you

Yeah, the build up does get hard as cement. whole home water treatment systems help avoid that. Thanks for watching.

Forgot to mention that a hose adapter is required for the outlet side of the ball valve.

Good input. We do the same on water heaters installed in owner occupied residences. For rental properties, the homeowners don't want to spend the extra money on a full port valve set up, so they get the off-the-shelf brass valve. Thanks for watching and the helpful comment.

The flapper will do it. Yes there are 2" and 3" flappers. Even though the 3" allows more water out of the tank faster I find that the 2" tend to give a better flush. The 3" tend to close faster. Also, if the rim jets are the same size, only so much water can get through them at any given time, so it doesn't mater how much water leaves the tank quicker. You can watch my video on flappers for my recommendation. Thanks for watching and the input. Flapper video at: kzbin.info/www/bejne/rpnbfGV_fNWWpLs

Waterproofing to keep it dry is the goal.. thanks for watching and the kind comment

it will but due to the height and possibility of tipping I recommend it be a 2-person job. Thanks for watching

@thewoggerswaydiy thanks

That's a good way to tell you if the rim jets are completely clogged, but won't let you know if they, or the siphon jet, are partially clogged, slowing the flow of water. Food color will still come out the jets even if partially clogged, but if not enough water is flowing through them fast enough it will inhibit the flushing power. Thanks for the tip.

That could be a couple issues.. 1) Partially clogged rim and siphon jets... 2) The fill tube from the fill valve either isn't in the overflow pipe, which is where the bowl water comes from.. 3) The fill valve is not working to capacity and putting out water too slowly. If you're tank is filling slower than normal, that would be a sign of a faulty fill valve. Thanks for watching.

Glad you liked it. Thanks for watching and the nice comment

Glad I could help! Welcome aboard.

You can email your request to us at [email protected] and we will get back to you. Thank you

Appreciate that. Good luck with your projects.

Yeah, I was under the mindset of people running Romex and what to do with all the grounds in their lines. You can just snip off all but one. For bulk wire like I ran I could have just ran a single ground. Would have ben much easier. I was hoping no one would notice my faux pas. Thanks for calling me out.. lol I'm sure over the life of this video there will be more people catching that. Good luck with your projects and thanks for watching.

That's me with wig. lol Actually I keep hoping for more hair and less beard myself.

Blue or blueish-green stains in a bowl can be the result of the reaction of urine mixing with hard water that contains certain chemicals, especially copper. Normally cleaning the bowl with any of the cleaners you mentioned would would help remove that ring, but you've already tried them all with no success. You may want to try making a paste with baking soda and a little water. smear it on the stain and let it sit for a while then scrub. Not sure if it will work since all the other methods haven't. Other than that I'm at a loss. If any of the other toilets in your house are not experiencing the same issue, then it leads me to believe there's an issue with the porcelain finish on that toilet. Wish I had better info for you.

For a homeowner with the time, and if not comfortable doing it this way, then I say drain it, but as a service technician time is money. Draining the water heater, if we don't have to, saves us time, which then saves the client money. Just yesterday I had a 40 gallon water heater that had a lot of sediment and took an hour and 20 min to drain, so I could change it out. If we were only there to replace the drain valve I'm sure the customer would have rather paid a $100 field visit fee in which we spent 10 minutes there. instead of $250 for us to spend 2 hours there. Also, if the water heater is several years old, then draining/flushing it could result in further issues, if it hasn't been flushed and maintained regularly. Thanks for watching.

First, if you're TPR valve is clogged and/or not working you need to change that out, since you need to have an operating relief valve. Next, I'm a little confused (not unusual for me). You first said the drain valve is clogged, but then you go on to say it drain valve isn't clogged. From your last sentence it sounds as tho you may have some clogging, because you only get the drain valve to "work" when the water to the tank is turned on and doesn't when it's off. When it's on it's creating pressure which would force water out, but when you turn it off the sediment could be moving in to seal it off. If you're trying to replace the drain valve it sounds as tho you shouldn't have a problem. I'd suggest replacing it with a full port ball valve and once replaced, do a thorough flush of the tank to rid it of any sediment. How old is your water heater?

@ Thanks for the reply. Yes, my comment was as confusing as the situation is. The tank is a Rheem and it’s about 12 years old. And yes, I’m very concerned about the TPR valve being clogged. My concern is that the tank is full of water and if I remove the TPR valve to replace it, I could have a disaster on my hands - even on a quick switch out like your video shows - if anything goes wrong. So I’m planning to swap out the drain valve first, try to get the tank drained out, and then change out the TPR valve. Thoughts?

Sounds like a good plan. With a 12 year old heater, you may want to take into consideration one concern. On a unit that old, if it hasn't been maintained regularly (flushed) there may be small holes in the tank that the sediment is keeping from leaking. Once you flush it out you may end up with a leaking tank. Especially if you've never changed the anode rod. By now the rod has been eaten away and the tank is being attacked. It's a double edged sword.. if you don't drain it, you have performance issues but if you do you may end up with a leaking tank you need to replace. Good luck with your project and comment on how it turns out.

thanks, but I stole it from the ancient Egyptians. lol. Thanks for the comment and for watching.

I love it when a plan comes together. Thanks for sharing your success story.

Appreciate that. Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects.

The process is the same for a canister style flush valve also. If you have something else, leave a comment to let me know what you have. Thanks for watching.

Those stains are coming from the rim jets around the underside of the bowl's rim. First clean out the raceway by following the steps in my video "Toilet Won't Flush | Slow Flushing Toilet | Water Stays in Bowl" at the following link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/mIfMdHmqopuNh7c (if this link doesn't work go to my home page and search for the above video). As an added punch to clean the rim jets, take a few paper towels and wad them up and put them in a baggie and use that to plug up the siphon jet to keep the CLR in the raceway (this will make sense after you watch the above video). Once you've done that take some CLR and scrub the stains away from under the rim. If you just clean the stain and don't clean out the rim jets, the stains will just keep coming back because the rust/etc coming out of the rim jets.. Thanks for watching and good luck with your project. kzbin.info/www/bejne/mIfMdHmqopuNh7c

WooHoo! Glad to hear it worked out for you! Thanks for watching.

Last time I checked I still was. lol Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects.

For my favorite fill valve, see my video on installing a fill valve: kzbin.info/www/bejne/o6HGq55mpL-dq5I I've found the simple FluidMaster A400 is a workhorse. Easy to install, adjust and lasts. Not to mention won't break the wallet. Thanks for watching.

@@thewoggerswaydiy Thanks...

No, thank you. Thanks for watching and I appreciate the comment.

See my follow up video released a few weeks ago to make the process simpler and faster. hee's the link: kzbin.info/www/bejne/l5rTkoWOpdSerrs Thanks for watching

Glad you found it helpful! The simple ways are usually the best. Thanks for watching.

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No, nothing in the bucket except water. It looks bubbly probably because it was an old dirty paint bucket I didn't clean thoroughly beforehand and the water stirred up some sediment, etc. still in the bucket. Thanks for watching.

@@thewoggerswaydiy oh for sure. i had gotten the idea a while ago to use some dish soap with almost hot water, plus your method; and it has been solving problems for years. (off topic) ive been considering using some hydrophobic paint in the john, any feed back on that?

Is your a tank type water heater? I'm assuming it is since you say you change out the heating element. Most point of use units don't have standard removable elements. Strange.. I've never come across a tank type water heater that didn't have a drain. I've even searched most major brands all the way down to 6 gallon tanks and they've all had drains. While I have not done it myself, I've known those that have changed out a heating element on an electric tank type water heater without draining the unit, doing the same process as I show in my video involving the drain valve. The opening is march larger and tends not to lend itself to vacuum locking but some say they have done it. Only other option is you can remove the water line and place a tube down into the water heater hooked up to a small pump and suck the water out through the nipple on top. Other than that you'll just have to have something available to catch or divert the water once you remove the element. Wish I had better info for you.

Thank you, I appreciate that. Thanks for watching and good luck with your projects.

Thanks 🔥