Nothing at all. No vibration

@@Fonzgarage Good info. Thanks!

You will !!! It took me 15 years to where I am at!

Thanks man!

No issues at all. I never heard anything, no chatter at all.

@@Fonzgarage Thanks for the quick reply, your overall setup is really nice and I'm planning to build something very similar for my MKIV, the exact same grannas kit and clutch is what I want and the one thing that I didn't want is chatter or idle noise from the clutch

@StriViK yup! Agreed. I never had any issues for the past two years and never heard anything. I have the aluminum bell housing as well.

Good question, I had an offset somewhere. The biggest down side for these wheels is that they don’t clear anything besides stock brakes

Thanks man!

Damn man! One day you will get there. This didn’t happen overnight for me at all. Took about 15 plus years to get where I am at.

​@@Fonzgarage Well I'm glad you made it, here's to another 15! 😎🤙 (edit: 15 years of enjoying the reward lmao)

@@wantdatcadpat44 for sure!! Building a Mk4 now so stay tune for that.

Ment the turbo manifold

Not this one but there are other similar manifold meant for ge that will work.

Yes very easy to install but you need emu black or classic or AEM infinity I believe. emu classic requires can bus to make it work.

@@Fonzgarage I heard EMU Black is good. Does the EMU BLACK come with installation instructions, then hook up the PTI to the EMU Black?

Yo what do you mean? You bolts shouldn’t be loose. They should tighten up once’s the stud goes through. And there should be two long bolts that should tighten up once you turn it enough

@@Fonzgarage I mean the thickness of the bolts were less than the internal diameter of the sleeves themselves, they have tightened up no problem, I just thought that the bolts should be a snug fit in the sleeves of the bush if that makes sense 👍🏻

@@rickysingh3958 did you have a metal sleeves that come with it? That goes between the bushings ?

@@rickysingh3958 to be honest I don’t notice that if there was some play between the sleeves and if they were loose. I should have checked that

CARDONE 132711 (Daily Driver) Includes Reservoir Info. This is from Rockauto. I just went through my orders and found that

Close ratio. It’s what was recommended from grannas racing

It’s the stock diff, - 393 diff

I’ll make a video on the trans stuff soon for everyone

Temps are fine. 192-199 usually even when boosting. The car is fun ass hell.

I’ll be there

@@Fonzgarage If I buy you a sandwich, can you take me for a ride in this Mk3 Supra again? I remember years ago when you did but it was a completely different car back then. 😄

@@755hpI got you!! It’s more wild!

He used a cable with new adapter to the t56. Required modifying the mount. On my Mk3 I used the Speedhut gps box which spins the Speedo based on gps speed.

I have Adam Grantz t56 adaptor that connects to the factory mk3 speedometer. There is a gear I also used in the t56 which connects to the adapter. I have a video on it when I did the t56 install on my channel

@@Fonzgarage awesome thanks

Yup! Mine is wired into my ecu as a ground trigger which triggers the pumps to turn on when it’s on ON position.

Mk3 are headaches man!

@@Fonzgarage haha. Take care of it. Car Wizard has a good video on an '88 where his friend addresses reliability mods to do first. Im sure you already know, based on all your videos on tinkering... im just here nostalgic

@@thaknobodi ooo yes I am about to start on my mk4 soon.

Hit or miss

I used James ward SS lines. For the rear you can use the one for mk4 with a banjo fitting on it. Mine isn’t a bango one. I might change it down the road

I messaged you on Facebook with the video of my setup! Hopefully that helps!!

Mk3 diff aren’t meant to handle ridiculous power. But they will hold if you do roll races but no launches

@@Fonzgarage who did your rebuild? I noticed you said Nick. Would like to have mine rebuilt. I just ordered the diy subframe kit from eBay.

@@sadmirfejzic3925 nick tippet from Facebook. He’s known as pirateT I think on Supramania. He’s out of WI and he does really great work and have rebuild ton of mk3 diffs.

@@Fonzgarage thanks man. My goals are 1400 on a 2j but honestly I don’t see myself doing launches just mainly roll racing and street use

@@sadmirfejzic3925 I would highly recommend you go the 8.8 ford route in a mk4. James ward in Texas builds the kit and it’s a piece of mind

Take your time and you will get there. It took me years and years.

@Fonzgarage thanks man I'm currently watching the vid of your quick drive and it's audio heaven

@@KingDrefromDaA thanks !! Next week is gonna be a better video ! Crossing fingers.

It will happen!

@@Fonzgarage I hope so bro we trying to put money aside little by little but these supra parts too expensove

@@Mk3Minty you will get there. Takes time

@@Mk3Minty everything getting expensive, just take your time and learn and in time you will get it done. I’ve rushed and waited a lot of money. I am learning to not do that on my other build

@@Fonzgarage Yea I’ve been doing vids of little mods we do but 7m for now 2j later

Rarely ever happens here when I am driving my car.

Good eye!! Was waiting for someone to notice it !

Wanted a simple set up. No airplane gauges all over

It’s sold by auto extrude autoextrude.com/products/mk3-supra-dual-cup-holder-db-extrusion#trustshop-review

Yes sir! Holding up and it should hold up rest of the year!

Always! This is why quality manifolds are always expensive!

Exactly. I wasn’t expecting mine to crack but it did and the more I spend money on it to fix it or make it work, it’s better to just spend the money to get a real intake

People also don’t pressure test their systems after they install any intakes. China intakes are known to leak by the TB. The reason why I went with the RMR to get rid of the leak. But there were more leaks than just the TB, which was the bracket bolts. Best to always pressure test the system up to 35-40 psi to make sure it the system holds. A lot of stuff I learn along the way and hopefully the mk4 I build will never go through this stuff

I just buy them, and get a professional to redo the welds before I install it. Aluminum is super easy to MIG weld with a spool gun. $30 of time makes that $200 manifold way better.

Uneven surface of the spindle. Can’t lay it flat on the press.

Honestly I am still learning, I am not completely satisfied with it. I am gonna change stuff around down the road.

Dude ! I love this trans!

Yes but it wasn’t a good pull at all. It was pulling how it should and I found a huge issue last night

@@Fonzgarage What was the issue…?

@@755hp danger to manifold!

@@Fonzgarage Crack in the intake manifold?

@@755hp :( yes! Need to take apart the car tonight

you can find the video of my headlight install on my channel. they are LED headlights

Thanks man! I didnt know my camera wasn’t mount right. I’ll have more good videos out for everyone soon!

Stock brakes ? 12 mm or 14mm or 17mm bolts in the back and undo them.

@@Fonzgaragesorry lol not specific enough, you have the hand brake cables going through the sub frame? how we do those?

@@noahlizard7 so there is a bracket above the driveshaft, undo those it’s held by a hard plastic or rubber piece and then there is a bracket that holds those cables right by it. It’s a 10mm and another bracket on the subframe by the axles. Also 10mm. Then take the rotor out and undo the ebrake stuff and you have to push in the metal tabs in the hole by the ebrake pads after you undo the cable. It’s tricky to push it out but it’s doable. Once that’s out you pull the cables out. Take your time with it. It’s easy to take out, just gotta be patience and also make sure you don’t break those bolts on the brackets

@@Fonzgarage thanks man in the middle of replacing all the rear bushings

@@noahlizard7 good luck!! It was a pain to do it alone. If you have a helping hand it’s best!! I am in the process of getting the alignment done so I can start driving it