sometimes i run into pieces that are really hard to push together, I dont want any pieces to break is there a recommendation on the best way to get them to fit. is this where i should be sanding or buy some oil or something else?

To be fair with regard to the commentary below. I don not like the effect of Speed Paints or Contrast where they are painted over white and the white is allowed to dominate the finished colour. It always looks like a bad water painting to me.

These are Historical figures so the lore of painting your own colours is more severely restrictive. In this case you got every thing wrong. First of all, aging the white parts of the uniform and adding pink to the epaulettes and turnback's to demonstrate aging fails to take into account two things. Between battles and even on campaign, troops had plenty of time to maintain and keep their equipment up to scratch. Further, the Young Guard are an elite unit expected to present an image above the standard of the ordinary rank and file. What is even worse is you used a light blue speed paint over a white zenithal which too light a colour. To set that all off was the footage of the Guard in combat before you presented the paint job. When a unit is uniformed in darker colours and you use Speed Paint or Contrast, you need a dark grey for your base coat and do not water down the blue you use. It is either that or don't name the unit after a historical organisation of paint them the correct colours.

Great looking French YG, superb painting and basing!

Thank you for providing inspiration!!

Thanks so simple but I couldn’t think of it ❤❤❤😂

The Winsor & Newton series 7 have long been my favorite line, but like you, I've found I tend to abuse them like I do the cheaper synthetics. Great review!

Very nice 👌

❤

Any generic oil paint work just as well. For the price of paying for brand name products people are paying way too much for this stuff. Spend your money smarter and buy more models........

First up, i hope that's not a cold you're coming down with. If so, take it easy. Definitely goats hair. You know about us Australians and sheep. I couldn't get a good look at that flat brush. Possibly a Filbert or cat's tongue, ok, i hang out at the art supple shop way too much. I have no idea how you're supposed to use them or for what. I use 3 sets of brushes. One for terrain and bases, one for painting wargame figurines, and the last for display models only and are WN Series 7. Over the past 30 years, my satisfaction with brushes has been on the decline. I think this is my fault. As my skills have increased, i may be expecting more. There is a lot of relabelling and price inflation out there. If i use a brush that i paid a few cents for and its tip heels over after the first time, I'll pick another and keep going. If it happens to my brand new WN after first use, I'll take it back to the store. So i suppose we must manage our expectation level. There are very few brush sets out there for miniature painters. I know of another from Europe, but they want a couple of hundreds of dollars for it. Given the price being asked for this set, i will get a set a set to try as they are asking a price thats worth the risk. As for the European set, they can forget it.

I actually stumbled across the black set a while back by accident and bought them. I use the drybrush extensively and love it. the other brushes hold their points well and overall, I'm very satisfied with them.

Thank you for sharing your expertise 🎉❤🎉

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Anavrin is just an expensive retailer, with 2 or three original products of their own. Seeing the quality in your video, not even worth the price either lol. When you go to their site, you see a lot of DIY kits from Robotime and their subproducts Rokr, and Cutebee, which is actually the brand called Hongda originally. You have a very nice video though, I hope it's worth the affiliate commission, because they should have paid you for creating the video as an influencer. All these Chinese (re)brands do this, send you the kits and are 'proud' to have you join as an affiliate, but are actually pretty cheap in paying you good money for a nice video like yours.

A great intro to then new paint markers from AK. I picked up 9 to try out. I must admit my overall reaction to them is somewhat neutral. Where they made a truly great impression, they were found wanting in others. Coverage and evenness are outstanding. One of my test models was a 1/100 3D printed Panzer 4 with turret and side skirts. I use it to test the visual impact of German camouflage schemes. It only took 2 coats to completely cover the previous camouflage and tried to a nice dull sheen. Now we come to that tip. Just as you found that the point looks sharp, for 15mm, it's just not sharp enough. The tip gets broad very quickly. This meant that for areas between the hull and side armour, I had to go back to brush as the tip could not reach the bottom of the detail as its broadness got stuck. For picking out details like tracks, lenses, and tools, these markers are really great. For the moment, the range of colours is tiny, real tiny. For even scale modelling, you need a wide range covering vehicles, uniforms, ships, and aircraft across many time periods, just like wargaming. So there is not enough range for even block style modulation. Being alcohol based acrylics, these markers should be great at wet on wet blending but lack the range to do it. Oddly, these markers did not bomb out but didn't blow me away either. I think the future of these markers lies in how quickly AK expands the range of colours. I'm pleased that I'm not the only one left numb by them.

Oh yeah, these markers rock for wargamong models!

I have now painted a Australian and Japanese army’s with the Ak pens . I hope they come out with other colours. Great video 👍👍

Always think it is worth bringing up that AK Interactive used images of those killed in the Holocaust to advertise their book "Condemnation". The book contained language comparing victims of the Holocaust to "rats". I won't buy their products.

So cool!

Dude that trick with masking tape saved me tens of hours and lots of money ! Thank you❤

Beautiful!

Great video brother and what armies do you play. I'm from New Zealand 🇳🇿

Your comment about switching to brush painting for the camouflage points up something that many people don't think about when working with a scale model -- the camouflage on the real vehicle painted with spray guns may have inch-wide feathering at the edges of the colors, but on a 1:285 tabletop tank, that feathering is going to be less than 0.09mm wide; there's no way you're going to get that amount of precision with an airbrush, and even the 0.7mm for 1:35 models can be pushing it; brush painting will produce hard-edged patches, but that's what you're going to see from a distance to make a real vehicle the same perceived size as a tabletop miniature.

Eva foam works fine with hot wire cutter?

the Plastic models look to be improving lots! clean detail, giving a run at the bigest companies in the industry. We're happy to be back on board with Bolt Action again, ready for 3rd edition! We're working on terrain sets for it right now.

This is a great looking set! I admit, the Bolt Action sets provide you with most of what is needed to get “boots” on the table and get a game going. I have one of the Konflikt 47 Soviet sets. I’m impressed! Looking forward to see your work on these. Great video!

I once got boxes with 3 ply cardboard. cherished it. To ensure flatness use a double layer of cardboard on the base layer with your technique of turning the cardboard so the corrugation is at 180 degrees. And maybe add some plastic wrap and then weight it down until dry.

Remember.. A man who loses the King’s Colours, loses the King’s Friendship…

Team Yankee is great. We tweaked the rules and have a blast.

Don't play any of these games but got to say the painting and techniques used are great at showing off these miniatures. I really can't get involved in a new scale!.

If you play Team Yankee, I don't think you can complain about Late War Leviathans going off the historical plot. So far, from what our group has seen of Leviathans, we don't like the way Infantry has been tokenised. So our first house rules will be to address this issue. There is one tank missing from the US line-up is the M-47 Pattern (II) tank. If the Soviet player gets the early T-54, this is a very obvious omission. Apart from this, our group is looking forward to its release for simply fun what-if games, which is how Team Yankee entered play with our group. Thanks for taking a second look at Leviathans.

Do you sell these?They are awesome

Hey thanks for putting this out there, friend.

Have you tried this method while beveling the cardboard to slope with more subtle flow from the “ground”? I want my terrain to look a literal more natural and lose that common “stairway” look, but I think it will be too thin to avoid warping, even with this solid method. Any insights would be much appreciated. Love the video!

Very cool, I think the board looks amazing. I am curious did you consider soaking the cotton in a watered down blue ink before hitting them with a the airbrush? I've seen some other people do similar things when they were making fire effects. I could also see hitting the outside with some splotches of a blue grey if you did so and then using a flashing light source. I'm also curious if you considered roughing up the plastic ball a bit and then using a gloss or ultra gloss varnish to give it a more glass like appearance?

Well done. The board looks great.

I so wanted to learn to do this and mainly WW 2

This was amazing. If I had a tenth of your talent. I’d be happy.

My wife and I were commenting on the amazing amount of detail in your work. I’ve been binge watching your channel for the last day - now I have to go back and hit the like button. I keep forgetting because I just can’t wait for the next video 😋

glad to see the paint pens flow very well, and their coverage is nicely opaque.

I HAD A DISAPIONTMENT AND STOPED THE VIDIO !!! IT WAS HORRABLE SEEING SOME ONE USE' A CRAFT KNIFE' WITH THE WRONG SIDE OF THEIR BODY 😱

Nice Paintjob :)

I'm totally not familiar with the paint pens. I'm not sure what they are supposed to bring to the process. the majority of the work was done with Speed Paint (maybe some normal acrylics). how does the paint pen differ from the traditional acrylic paint n brush we have been using ? This looks to be worth looking into.

Thank you for sharing; When you put on the Mineral Spirits followed by the Black Enamel Panel Liner, is this done right away when the Mineral Spirits are still "wet"?? Your thoughts and response are welcomed. (May it be easier to apply a "Gloss Coat" and then the Enamel Panel Liner??)

Your Napoleon artillery came out looking really great. I finally got hold of some of the AK paint markers last week. For me, it was one of those who held your breath, then wait and see moments. Back in the 80s, Tamiya paint pens were just horrible. The AK pen markers, on the other hand, are brilliant. The paint flows beautifully from the tip. Getting an even layer is really easy over a large area. Doing small areas like the cuffs of your figurines and belts, they save you a lot of time. Especially in brush cleaning. I have not tried them with speed paints yet, so you've given me something to look forward too.

Looks great! Could it work purely with shades of grey?

Awesome video 👍 I have used mine on my WW2 Japanese and American infantry. I will have to try them on my Naps and ACW . I’m trying out another brand I bought off amazon next

Love your channel, but seriously what's up with the teleshopping music. :D

Thanks for a very interesting tutorial. I’m debating whether to try using the AK markers. As for background, personally I prefer the black.