Haven't done anything to it since the bike performs great. I managed to "unsqueak" the brakes of my former bike with something called "Disc Brake Silencer" like this: Remove the wheel. Remove the brake pads. Clean the disc and pads with isopropyl alcohol. Spray disc brake silencer onto the pads and let it dry. Remount everything. Do a couple of test brakes. Noise was gone. Again, this was with another bike.

Nope, it's in the mountainous region between Austria's capital Vienna and Graz, another big city. You can check it out by searching for Wexltrails.

I am not advising against a wrap categorically. I just want to prevent other people getting frustrated with the process as I did. Let a professional do it, like a local bike mechanic or something. Yes, it will cost more, but it saves you hours of time and potential frustration (if you are an impatient klutz with bad eyesight like me).

Damn. Guess you've never kept a car longer than 5 years. Seats rip, blow out, get stained. Seat covers can change once a year. The seats cannot. But hey, if you don't like getting more money when selling either, that's on you

As a man with multiple scars on my body, I approve of this comment.

I still have a 2006 Cannondale Caffeine with the Headshok Ultra fork. I converted it from a traditional 3x9 to 1x11 drivetrain and put a wider bar on it. Great bike! Too bad they screwed you on that lifetime warranty.

@@BruceOnBikes 2 of my caffeine died do to fracture in the Seattube. The third was from China and in sold it.

Now you made me check the seat tube. Still ok, fortunately, but I'll keep an eye on it!

Thanks for sharing your experience! My results would probably be a lot better if I had also allotted 10 hours for the process. I took Ridewrap at their word with the "3-4 hours" they put into their instructions. In the end it took almost 6 hours to finish and I got stressed because I had followup appointments. How did you deal with dust particles clinging to the sticky side of the wrap? Those were the most frustrating for me to remove. Regarding the protection effect: after my last ride I got two paint chips exactly 3mm next to where the wrap ended (on pieces where the wrap would never have reached, that was not due to my application of it). Maybe I would have gotten a lot more without it, I don't know. But even with the wrap, your bike will not be impervious to damage from rocks because there will be small gaps where the wrap cannot reach. I need to give bonus points to Ridewrap for including a precise syringe for mixing the solution. Older reviews talked about how it was hard to find the right dosage for the solution and they had trouble applying the warp because of that. With their syringe and the instruction video where they say you should mix 0.5ml for 1 liter of water, the mix worked fine. I never had an issue with it being too sticky or too slippery. How did your wrap stick to parts that were not completely smooth? Two suspension link parts of my Canyon Spectral are made of aluminum and have a bit of a rough surface. Those were easy to place because small and simple parts, but the wrap didn't like to stick onto them because of the uneven surface area.

A kerbonaut on bike :D. At least the bike wrap is finished.

Unfortunately not. But I can give you a quick list of what I'm using on this run: Bike: Cube Stereo One22 Race with Maxxis Minon DHF and Minion DHR II tires, Crankworks Stamp 2 Large pedals, Ergon GE 1 Evo grips. No other modifications. Protection: - Helmet: Sweet Protection Arbitrator - Evoc protection shirt (spine, shoulders, chest) - Fox Elbow Guard Launch D30 - Ion K-Pact Zip knee guards - Shimano ET-5 shoes - Fox gloves (don't know the exact model, sorry) Camera is a GoPro Hero Black 11

@@BruceOnBikes Thanks mate!

Always!