Always makes my day when someone finds the videos useful! Thank you!

www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=705353&cc=1375185&pt=10762&jsn=876&optionchoice=0-0-0-1

IT WAS close there!

I remember that! Today was Judgement Day, for the Trax.

Thanks for watching!

Lost a valve on one of those engines, an 03. Wonder if a valve could throw that moisture, I know a stem seal could. Pretty sure lash is adjustable on these

Locktite made for a great workout. Swollen lug nut disease strikes early!

There is a list of issues that could effect your fuel system, including the pump, but there are other bits to explore. I have serviced oak ridge by special appointment before. If you look up Jenkins Performance on Craigslist in Eugene, you can find me. Or my Twitter feed. I'm happy to walk you through a few things. Yours is a "pre 3800" if I'm correct, so a little more simple

@@willjenkins2842 I also have a sneaking suspicion it might be the computer

Lee's hubcaps for United Pacific, and I think it was around $90 for the set of four. Real chrome steel. You will need to get metal valve stem caps to protect the fill ports. They can make and try to rotate on rim a little. This type was all the rage 90 years. You just have to be prepared to put some tape around the outside of them to make them really grip on the rim. Yes it did improve the fuel economy. It may shorten brake pad life. Also see "Hollywood flipper" hubcaps, or "moons" which will look like a brushed flatter disc

Awesome! Thanks! I don't use the brakes much, unless I need to. Mostly sit on the freeway cruising at 60. I will look into getting some! @@willjenkins2842

Thanks! How much did the caps help MPG? ​@@willjenkins2842

Working like this has changed me. If you would have told me 10 years ago I could spin wrench at 37' in the middle of a pineapple Express atmospheric River, I would not have believed you. Now it's just another day in paradise.

if it feels like springs only, then yeah,they are done. the rear quickk struts are about $40 each on rock auto, FCS brand. I have had good luck with them. You want to do the sway bark links also. Carefully inspect the trailing arm and lateral link bushings. you have to drop the whole subframe to do the lateral links. Its doable. I have a video on it. The problem child is the rear knuckle, and the long bolt that passes through it and both lateral links. Divorcing its nut, and freeing it from the knuckle can be damn near impossible if the corrosion has got to it. Thankfully, all that is designed so that it WILL NOT fall apart no matter how much play it gets =).

@@willjenkins2842 Thanks. I'll take a look at it. Everything feels tight, but the rear sits a bit low and it it floaty (but the rebound fees fine after a big bounce.

@@mrbwa1 they busted. They die really slowly, so it becomes hard to quantify the change. Any strut assembly over 60k will start to get smooshy. As the dampening fails, the springs do extra work and wear out. Don't be surprised if it looks like you put a lift kit on it afterwards 😉

@@willjenkins2842 I did the rear shocks on the Mazda5 twice and one in my Scion. I think this is struts, so I'll get some loaded struts for it. Hopefully it's not too stubborn.

@@mrbwa1 1000 percent the way to go. Only reconstruct struts if there is no other option available.

its hit or miss, but they should look good for at least 5 years. All has to do with the sun cycle. Solar maximum is a big factor